Basic install guide? anyone

[ade]

Now - Ive not been on here for ages and I know Sean was gonna do one for a while but what I'd like to see is a basic install guide - something easy - just a wiring diagram for a Nova for the following -

Amp
Decent head unit
2 front speakers with tweeters
2 x 6X9
Base speaker or 2

How is it powered etc...

Making the actual surrounds etc is fairly straight forward (see styling for boot build) but there must be someone out there that can explain the wiring etc...

Anyone up for it

Ade
:thumb:

[Iain]

That would be pretty good, I'm clueless when it comes to wiring anything. lol

[mikey14sr]

head unit wiring would depend on what sort of power the unit needs, the standard supply in a nova is only really designed for a fuse of up to about 7.5 amps, any larger on the fuse rating and i would recommend installing a seperate feed, either from the battery itself or from the supply to the amp.
As for a wiring diagram, would any of the speakers be running off the head or would they all be running from the amp?

[bump]

ade,

really it depends on what your set up is.

from what you've said i'd say head unit in, should be on an iso block already if 91> if not you'll need a harness adapter from autoleads (hafrauds, motorworld) swap the red and yellow leads over on the HU as vaux wire their power backwards.

run the fronts from the HU into their crossovers then out to woofer and tweeter.

ideal situation is to have two amps running

run rca from pre out down drivers side and power and remote down passenger side (already a power loom there) to avoid induced noise form power cables magnetic field.

run the sub out iinto the amp running the bass and another pre out into your 6x9 amp wire up the cones to the amp (never run joined negs on speakers will kill them and the amps.

put on some of your fave music and tweak the eq's and gains till your hearts content.

hope it helps

bump

[mikey14sr]

6x9's sharing the same air space as a sub can sound bad too. If you want the best from them try building each one into its own little box, this should increase their response times and you might find you dont need the bass turned up as much for the same result.

[bump]

although if your 6x9's are free air designed then boxing them will put extra stress on the voice coil and make them more prone to failing

[mikey14sr]

just done a rough diagram for you, pretty basic but hopefully you'll get the idea.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v689/mickyd79/ade.jpg

[Jack]

IMO you don't need 6x9s... a decent set of components and a sub or two would be ok.

And building a sub box to the right volume can really improve the performance of the sub.

[SPipower]

try to keep it as simple as possible as if your gonna be updating componunts then its easier to do it with a simple install, having loads of wires which u cant remember where they go is always a nightmare, so if u got a spare couple of minuters put post-its so u can identify the wires..... reason is i used to be the ripspeed specialist at halfords and it makes it so much easier! lol

[ade]

Mikey - cool diagram - what are all the circles and boxes though :p Sounds daft but can you label it!

I'm not looking for a ear splitting install, all I want is -

My Nova (91 reg mk2)
JVC head unit (40w) with 10 disc autochanger - that I can fit - has preoouts at the back.
A set of decent speakers up front with tweeters
A set of infinity 6x9's (have these already)
a bass box or maybe 2 (one either side of the hatch) for oomph!
and an amp - I currently have a 2 channel little thing powering my 6x9's.
and how to power it if the battery up front isnt up to it.

Ade
:thumb:

[Ste L]

for a decent set up this is what i would do...

head unit
some decent 5/6" componets at front (running off Amp)
some 4" co-aixe in standard position at back (running of headunit for bit of rear fill)
12" Sub in boot (running of Amp)

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a130/Ste_SRi/ice.jpg

[mikey14sr]

S t e 's diagrams spot on too, only on mine there is a seperate live feed to the head unit and the front speakers are run from the head via external cross-overs (the little ovals).
The auto changer takes its power from the head unit, it should have come with it's own wiring and thats just a case of putting it where you want and plugging it in.
One thing I can't stress enough though is the cable size and fusing for the amps MUST be up to the job. A lot of the cable packs are rated in watts which means jack s**t. The main power cable from the battery needs to be able to take more amps than the total of the equipment it feeds, ie, 2 amps with 30 amp fuses = 6o amps, therefore you would need 80 amp rated cable(luckily this happens to be what 4GA is rated at). The fuse near the battery also needs to match the sum of what it feeds, so in the above case this would be 60A.
Down near the amplifiers you need to split the power feed down using a fused distribution block, the cables from here to the individual amps can be reduced in size to about half the thickness of the main cable(40A max or 8GA).
For the earthing side you basically reverse the power wiring, but instead of using a fused block use an un-fused one, and try to keep the earth circuit as short as you can, making sure the connection to the cars body is good.

Another little trick I've learnt is that if you want to run some neons or other lighting around the install is to use a fused distribution box with more outputs than you need for the amps, so that you can use the spare outputs to feed power to the lights. These should be wired in a similar fashion to fog or spot lights, via a relay operated by the boot light switch so that they only come on when the boots open.

[Ste L]

shouldn't need to run an extra live feed to headunit, as the one on the car loom is sufficiant..

also, i didn't add the crossovers, as they come with the compoments and are self explanertry