Home made perspex windows?

[Jon_nova1]

I want to get lighter windows in the back screen and rear quarter, I don't fancy paying 100quid+ for something that cost a few quid to make :roll: it should be ok if its perspex as the windows don't wind down so wont scratch, would it work making them myself? anyone got ideas on the curving part of it? and is it 4MMthick the windows need to be? :?

[Dan]

Jon i cut my own out, i think i paid about 70 quid for an 8ftx4ft sheet of 4mm polycarb. Ok the price isnt far off, but i still have half the sheet left to either redo them or make some fronts if i can ever be bothered. Obv you could prob just get a smaller sheet for less cost, thats just how i did it

[Stuart]

4mm thick.... make sure you get outdoors polycarb/perspex as that will be UV treated which means it wont go yellow and skanky under sunlight lol.

ive made mine from perspex which i know is less impact proof than polycarb but tbh i dont care it was a tad cheaper lol.

your best bet is to go to a signmakers and try to blag a cash deal with them for a sheet ;)

[Jon_nova1]

Im abit too far from the mids :lol:

the backs will get tinted anyway, so i don't think there would be much need for the UV stuff, depends on the price difference :lol:

cheers for the advice, what about the curving of the window? will the natural position of the rubbers etc make it bend?

[Stuart]

erm you still need UV protected plastic if its going outside, otherwise you will have yellow tinted windows lol


as for the "curve" in the rear glass. Just put the window on the plastic with the inside facing up. The rubber should take care of the rest

[Jon_nova1]

yer, would suit if i had a yellow car :lol:

you mean put the original window in the rubber with the new one so it bends it?

[Jon_nova1]

I can get 3MM thick dirt cheap, would this work? :?

[Stuart]

no i don mean put the window in the rubber with at (as that wouldnt fit for a start

when marking out the plastic you need to put the current glass on with the inside facing "up"

3mm would work, but for extra "saftey" id bung a seam of rtv round the window seal/plastic joint when fitting them

[lee 16v]

my m8 done this out of a bus stop window not that im saying that u shold try this as i would think it would be illegal

[Dod]

Polycarb is the way to go. The curves dont matter until you get to the fronts, they'll catch the rubber in the window when winding down or up, Aternatively, you could take out the winder mechanism and do without, or try to heat and bend the Polycarb so it doesn't catch, obviously you'll need to trim and round the edged on it as well.

[Stuart]

you dont have the windows moveable in the fronts when you convert to polycarb... it would jsut scratch like a mofo if you did

[Dod]

Yeah but not very practicle othewise.

[Stuart]

:roll: good to see youve missed the point of polycarb windows lol

[Dod]

And heres me thinking that weight is a major factor as well. :roll:

[Stuart]

thats why you remove the window winder mechanism and make one "large" pannel to replace the 1/4 lights and the up/down part that is fixed. thus saving in the region of 10Kg.......


did you not think about that lmao

[broster]

unless you remove all the mech from the doors the weight loss wouldnt be worth swapping the widnows for to be honest. there is a guide on mig somewhere when olly did his windows.