sr dials

[Marsden]

hello,
just put some sr dials into my nova and before i put them in i had half a tank of fuel on my original dial, but now my sr ones go way off scale and thats only with 1/2 tank. can someone tell me why?

thanks ben

[bump]

right mate i had this problem,

basically the resistance of the gague and the resistance of the sender arn't mached.
what you need to do is unbold your old fuel gage from the clockset and take off the small white bar on the back then bolt it accross the two same pins on your sr clockset.
the bar will run from top to bottom with 110 being on the silver pin if i remember right.

takes about 5 mins to do just check which number is on the silver pin on the old one first.

[Marsden]

ok cheerz m8 i am going to take the dials back out and try to solve the problem. but aint it all behind wires and stuff? so i cant get to it

[bump]

no it's actually bolder onto the back of the fuel gauge unit itself.

all you need to do is take the perspex fron off your old clock set and undo the nuts on the back that hold in the fuel gauge then youll see it on the back.

unbolt it and bolt it straight onto your sr clocks

[bump]

no it's actually bolted onto the back of the fuel gauge unit itself.

all you need to do is take the perspex fron off your old clock set and undo the nuts on the back that hold in the fuel gauge then youll see it on the back.

unbolt it and bolt it straight onto your sr clocks

[bump]

sorry double post, spotted typo too late

[Marsden]

ok just taken it off and on the back of my original fuel gauge there is something linking two bolts together and it says 55 on one side and 75 on the other. do i need to take that off and put it on my sr dials?

[bump]

yep that's your bad boy, make a note of which number is on the silver pin so it goes on the right way round on your sr gauge and that should have you sorted.

there isn't the recess for it on the sr clockset so put it on the outside of the nuts and use a couple of nuts from your old clockset to hold it in place.

[Marsden]

ok put the 55, 75 thing onto the back of my sr dials but now they wont connect to the electrical parts at the back of the dials because they are sat to high and the threads are just sticking threw about 2mm, not enough for the bolts to contact.

do i just bolt it on the same as the original or do i take that curcuit of?

[bump]

try using the flatter nuts of the old clockset, that worked for me.
therwise take off the first set of nuts on the two pins that the bar needs to go over and put a couple of washers on. then bolt up tight.

[Marsden]

sorry mate i understand no lol me been me. cheers for your help lol

[bump]

no probs at all mate. when i swapped mine over it took me about an hour to twig that the resistance must be out. but having swapped over the bar it works just fine.

just tring to decide how to make mine brighter. i've already got the astra 2v bulbs in and it's a bit dim still

[Marsden]

thanks alot m8 works beautifull.

[bump]

glad to have been of help

[Marsden]

yeah i wanna get mine brighter because they are lets face it rubbish. i dont think changing bulbs will do much good. they are not back lit so it is hard for the light to get round and dazzle you. if you figure a decent way out let me no

[Spudly]

I jus tried following the advice from this thread and no joy, the white bar on the back of my clocks says 110 at one end and 75 at other, i noticed you said the one to use is 55-75, which clocks can i take this one from, my clocks are both mk2 one SR, and a 1.2 set with no rev counter, my SR clocks the needle on the fuel guage jus goes up as far as it can when the ignition is on!!

Sorry to borrow somone elses thread, jus it was the same topic i was gonna ask about!!

[Marsden]

hi m8 no problem. the dial that i had in originally that i got the white bar out of was a 1.4 spi with no rev counter and it did say 55-75. just put the one you have got on but remember it will be going from top to bottem instead of from left to right because of were the silver pin is. i think the high number on mine went to the silver pin and the lower number on the gold one accross from it

[Spudly]

i thought that but wen i put my white bar top to bottom on mine the needle on the fuel guage dont even move so i reckon that one is too much resistance, any ideas peeps???

[Marsden]

have you tried the bar both ways? thats all i can think you may have it the wrong way[/swf]

[Spudly]

Yeah lol i tried it across all of the pins in every different way i could think of after i tried the silver an gold pin both ways round, so unless the resistor is goosed im stuck!!!!

[Marsden]

i dont no then m8, sorry. i just put mine on and it worked fine 1st time round. it may have something to do with mine been diferant, try and get hold of a 55, 75 one that may do the trick. the one on your temp should be a 55 75 one, mine was any way. put that one on just for a test. thats all i can suggest

[Spudly]

Haha, i jus opened me 1.2 clocks and yes the resistor is a 55-75, so i shall fuel myself with coffee and go give it a whirl, so fingers crossed cheers lol!!

[Spudly]

Grrr still no joy ive spat me dummy out now cos im confused it should have worked by now but its not goin to cos its me lol, oh well who needs a rev counter anyways (need the SR clocks in for the rev counter but cant go without the fuel gauge)

[bump]

of the needle is not moving then i would suggest that it is not making contact with the circuit board. try the washer trick. otherwise take some of your spare nuts from your 1.2 set and flaten them off a bit with some pliers, then they should fit and make a decent electrical contact.

[bump]

marsden
i'm looking at multiple ways of getting the cluster to be brighter including mounting superbright LED's on the back of the perspex. i'll let you know how i get on.

[Spudly]

I think it must be making contact cos it only stops the needle movin when ive got it in a certiain position, otherwise it shoots straight off the end of the gauge i jus dont know now its confising me well and truly!!

[bump]

when it's shooting off the scale then it will deff be making contact.
take off the resistance bar and put the fuel gauge back in as it started.
then place the resistance bar on top of the nuts with the higher number on the silver pin, then put two nuts on top of the bar to complete the circuit.

the bar needs to be on the back of the pins so it is the last thing on

it should work then, provided that your old gauuge worked.

[Spudly]

HAHA!!!!
Finally after much messing about ive got the fuel guage working, only prob now is it reads slightly different now, the 1.2 clock said just over half a tank and now the SR one says between quarter and half any ideas as to which will be the most accurate here, i dont know what tank is on me car nut i think the original engine was on carbs now its a standard xe, any ideas peeps, cheers for all the help from everyone much appreciated too!!!!

[bump]

i found that when i changed to the sr clock it was more accurate as i could push the std gauge just off the top when the tank was completely full

glad to hear you got it working mate

[Spudly]

Yeah my old ones did that too i dont think the 1.2 ones are very accurate but then show me a vaux fuel guage that is lol aye thanx for all the help peeps!!!!

[bump]

never mind the fuel, i'd love to see anything vaux that was accurate.

glad to be of some use mate

[Spudly]

Yeah i no like the fool that badged my back end up as a 1.2 with an Xe hidin under the bonnet lol!!!!