Rolling Roaded this morning!

[krobinson]

Steven took the car from me last night, so he could make an early start and take it to DS Auto's to be tested and fine tweeked. I didnt go along as its pretty far away and too early for me :lol:

Straight out of the box, untweeked, it made an impressive figure of 113bhp. Which is more than the works rally cars (105bhp)

After a little bit of tweeking it made :

119bhp @ 6600
110ft @ 4800

I've over the moon with that, i wasnt expecting anything over 110 to be honest :)

Keith

[Matt2107]

Excellent news mate.

[Jim]

Excellent Stuff Keith, you must be very happy :)

Jim

[krobinson]

Over the moon Jim, as i'm sure you were when yours made such impressive figures 8)

Keith

[ANDYRACER]

Bloody hell, thats powerful for a 1.3. Very impressive. 8)

[-Bruce-]

Nice one keith!! Thats realy good!! Smiles all around :D :D

Bruce

[Stuart]

i hope my lumpy cammed small capacity engine makes power that low down the rev range.... lol

[krobinson]

i hope my lumpy cammed small capacity engine makes power that low down the rev range.... lol

Depends how lumpy the cam is!! Mine is a solid profile race cam and idles like a pussycat, really kicks in at 3.5/4k. Flat nosed cam too, which i think is responsible for the awesome sound at 4-5k.

Keith

[Stuart]

305ish degree flat nose square edged mofo of a custom grind ;)

just power like that from a cam like that at such low rpm.... surely it should be at about 7-8K...

[peester]

as i sed on mig mate, top stuff - the 110lbft impresses me though too. Its perfect really isn't it.. .lol.

[krobinson]

305ish degree flat nose square edged mofo of a custom grind ;)

just power like that from a cam like that at such low rpm.... surely it should be at about 7-8K...

Would be pointless my engine making peak power between 7-8k, as it would eventually just blow up. A Steal bottom end and a AST 19 would be more suited to that kind of reving.

That said, mine doesnt feel like the powers flatning out at all way past 7k.

Keith

[Riggy]

excellent keith so happy for you after all youve been through with it :lol:

[Mike.]

thats a brilliant result mate :D

[BigRuss]

Steven took the car from me last night, so he could make an early start and take it to DS Auto's to be tested and fine tweeked. I didnt go along as its pretty far away and too early for me :lol:

Straight out of the box, untweeked, it made an impressive figure of 113bhp. Which is more than the works rally cars (105bhp)

After a little bit of tweeking it made :

119bhp @ 6600
110ft @ 4800

I've over the moon with that, i wasnt expecting anything over 110 to be honest :)

Keith

Not bad results there, still another 10 bhp to go though. Bowyer was getting 130bhp out of the little 1300's 15years ago.



krobinson Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 7:13 pm Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Stuart wrote:
305ish degree flat nose square edged mofo of a custom grind

just power like that from a cam like that at such low rpm.... surely it should be at about 7-8K...


Would be pointless my engine making peak power between 7-8k, as it would eventually just blow up. A Steal bottom end and a AST 19 would be more suited to that kind of reving.


I have to say the best 8v'ers achieve peak power between 7 + 8k and they do not blow up!!! None of them run on steel bottom ends as none were ever or are available for them, if yours doesn't rev that high you don't need the solid lifters you've got and would explain the only slightly better than mediocre power achieved.

To get really good power they have to be revved, the "norm" in competition use is peaking at about 7,500 ish and limiters set to 8,250.

[Ben]

When in Will F's car yesterday i was amazed how well it pulled at between 7-8k revs, made a hell of a difference.

Strong words there from Russ there but a very valid point about the Bowyer engines.

[S_Gault]

guys this is a road engine...not and out and out competition engine...

if keith drew a line on his graph from where peak power is now to where it would be on a competition engine.. is 7600... it would be making 135+bhp.

but it would be shear useless on road with 16 in wheels etc that are fitted.

This is a road car....so forget the peak numbers,

far too many fools on here who know so much , its an insult to people like me who are honest and do this professionally.

Steven

[BigRuss]

S_Gault Posted: Tue Sep 06, 2005 11:30 am Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

guys this is a road engine...not and out and out competition engine...

if keith drew a line on his graph from where peak power is now to where it would be on a competition engine.. is 7600... it would be making 135+bhp.

but it would be shear useless on road with 16 in wheels etc that are fitted.

This is a road car....so forget the peak numbers,

far too many fools on here who know so much , its an insult to people like me who are honest and do this professionally.

Steven


Steven,

If you do this professionally, why does this engine have solid lifters? For the rev range it has it doesn't need them at all!!

Surely an experienced honest professional would know where peak power was going to be on an engine based on valve sizes, cam profile, head cfm etc etc....... before the engine was even put together!!!!!

In my opinion there are far too many fools in the world altogether, i particularly frown upon the ones that never admit they get things wrong from time to time!!

[Dod]

Enough to see off a few GT Turbo Starlets, eh Keith?


Good work Steve, must see you about an engine build soon.

[krobinson]

Not bad results there, still another 10 bhp to go though. Bowyer was getting 130bhp out of the little 1300's 15years ago.







To get really good power they have to be revved, the "norm" in competition use is peaking at about 7,500 ish and limiters set to 8,250




As steven said this is a road car, not a competition car which you've been talking about, it drives like a pussycat low down, but has a very good punch. So i basically have the best of both worlds! I asked for solid lifters as i will from time to time be giving the engine some abuse. I've seen what can happen when a hydralic follower jacks up and destroys an engine. I'm not taking chances! The will easily rev to 8k, but theres no point as the power drops off before that.

Why cant you see this as a good road engine? rather than a down on power competition engine?

Keith

[peester]

jeez, no pleasing sum peeps eh?

[krobinson]

jeez, no pleasing sum peeps eh?

Dont think anyone should be compareing my road engine to 130bhp competition engines.

Anyways, back to topic, i havent got a scanner, so i just took a photograph, here's the graphs, both torque and bhp.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v37/keithrobinson/bhp.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v37/keithrobinson/torque.jpg

Keith

[Dod]

Mate, i'm delighted for you. As said, its a road car, full interior and all the Luxury items, not a stripped out racer. Its a Fast Road car and at the end of the day, this is a world apart from a Comp Car. Anyway think about it. What Std 1300 NA Car do you know that has 120BHP STD and is as fast as this?

[martweaver]

Top result mate!!!! well done!

Sounds like you have it all, power, driveability, reliability & a light enough engine to retain awesome handling - Sweet :D

Wish you had got that engine in when we last went to the Ring in it, would have been a different story on the motorways I think!

Why does someone have to pick holes in anything anyone posts, I could understand the coments if you had a stripped out car on 14's or 15's & a cage..etc, but yours is obviously a road car with a driveable engine. How many people use an 8k rev range on the roads???

Mart

[Jim]

I don't think people are picking holes in the engine as a whole, but questioning the whole solid lifter issue. It's Keith decision at the end of the day, but those solid lifters are not cheap and you have to wonder if it's an added expense to an engine that doesn't really need them? I don't have them on my engine yet when I drive it (albeit not very often :P) I drive it hard and rev it well above 7k, thats what it was built to do in my eyes.

Just because people don't own their own workshop or do this for a living doesn't mean they do not have knowledge of these engines.

Keith, as long as your happy with how its performing thats all that matters, well done again mate, now go and enjoy it :)

Jim

[BigRuss]

Keith,

MMMMMMMMMM, where do I begin??? You have undoubetedley got yourself a quick little engine/car, it will go well especially as you say it is a road car. It will suprise and piss a lot of people off :lol: and respect to you for that :wink:

My concern is that you paid somebody good money for an engine, ok you say it was you who insisted on having solid lifters, if that's the case then fair enough.

But as S.Gault has pointed out on numerous times he is "an honest professional who does this for a living" I am suprised and tbh annoyed that he has in My opinion stood back and watched You waste money.

You've never openly told us what this engine has cost us which leads Me to believe that it is an expensive item running in to thousands of your hard earned pounds/euros. Don't get me wrong, again respect to you for having it and spending it, well done :wink:

As Jim said
Just because people don't own their own workshop or do this for a living doesn't mean they do not have knowledge of these engines.

Apologies if you've taken anything the wrong way, us 1400 boys need to stick together :wink:

[martweaver]

I don't think people are picking holes in the engine as a whole, but questioning the whole solid lifter issue. It's Keith decision at the end of the day, but those solid lifters are not cheap and you have to wonder if it's an added expense to an engine that doesn't really need them? I don't have them on my engine yet when I drive it (albeit not very often :P) I drive it hard and rev it well above 7k, thats what it was built to do in my eyes.

Just because people don't own their own workshop or do this for a living doesn't mean they do not have knowledge of these engines.

Keith, as long as your happy with how its performing thats all that matters, well done again mate, now go and enjoy it :)

Jim

Just said people pick holes in posts all the time mate - not the engine!
Keith has got a cracking engine, but all some people can do is argue about why he has done it in a certain way.

Mart

[dhdev (Oli)]

just thought i'd give my 2pence worth,
Looking at the spec i'd say that this was built as a competition engine even tho it was destined for the road.
If it was a road engine then i don't believe half the work / expense was required. My old 1300 gave 102bhp with only a mild cam, headwork and 32/34 carb. it revved all day everyday to 7500-8000rpm.
With a spec like yours Keith i would've been hoping for 100bhp per litre.

What was S.Gault on about when he said draw a straight line from peak power to where a comp engine makes peak power? looking at the graphs when Keith reaches peak power his power curve is practically flat so extrapolating the curve wouldn't really prove much!?!
If we're drawing random straight lines tho, my engine would make 350bhp at 9500rpm!!!

Anyway most of this is irrelevant as its numbers on a piece of paper, what's really important is how it drives and if Keith's happy with it, cos thats why we all do this i presume!

[Jim]

Anyway most of this is irrelevant as its numbers on a piece of paper, what's really important is how it drives and if Keith's happy with it, cos thats why we all do this i presume!

Agreed.

Jim

[martweaver]

Anyway most of this is irrelevant as its numbers on a piece of paper, what's really important is how it drives and if Keith's happy with it, cos thats why we all do this i presume!

Agreed.

Jim

2nd That :D
Mart

[Nova_Houch7]

nice one, hoping to get my 1.3sr lil quicker soon, get those horses out

[shy witness]

well done mate...................you should be happy..........nice 2 see u didn't go down the valver route 4 a change....that should be a great /quick we car now..............ready 2 redden the face of all thgose sily saxo's etc....good luck

[krobinson]

My concern is that you paid somebody good money for an engine, ok you say it was you who insisted on having solid lifters, if that's the case then fair enough.

But as S.Gault has pointed out on numerous times he is "an honest professional who does this for a living" I am suprised and tbh annoyed that he has in My opinion stood back and watched You waste money.


I had a choice really if i should use solid lifters or not. The Kent Kam book stated that the AST17 cam is a mechanical and not hydralic cam. So thats what made my mind up in the end, who was i to argue with the guys who make the cam?

I'm a bit of a better save then sorry guy, so this is why my engines pretty much new and built to this standard.

Very happy with how it performs, especially when still running heavy speedlines and full interior.

Keith

[S_Gault]

ive never seen a 1300 N/A on the rollers i use make anymore then 106bhp on any hydralic cam. Which cam would you have chosen Russ?

I wanted to use a AST17 as i like them and i think for keiths use , you'll agree .. it certainly works. your gran could take it down the shops. yet it has punch

If it was a compeition engine it wouldnt have 40s on it or 30mm chokes!!!

And ive seen far too many 8v engines drop heads off valves and inserts into engine on hydralic lifters.. they jack up every time I wont build an engine on them anymore thats destined to be used on track.

[Stuart]

"scrapheap challenege" engine http://www.novaload.net/features/viewfeature.php?ref=571 (no offence benji)


then the uber ?K engine here is a "mere" 10bhp up..........


and benjis is driveable with punch too......

hmm

[krobinson]

"scrapheap challenege" engine http://www.novaload.net/features/viewfeature.php?ref=571 (no offence benji)


then the uber ?K engine here is a "mere" 10bhp up..........


and benjis is driveable with punch too......

hmm

11BHP Actually :P

So? i bought all my parts brand new, had the bottom end renewed, Apr bolts etc. Alot of spec that benji doesnt have, and thats not to get power, but to be reliable. Thats where the money has been spent.

Not to say that Benji's engine isnt reliable, as its proved itself time and time again.

I didnt build this engine to get big figures and beat everyone, i built it because i cant insure a valver. Dont know why you have to continue with pointless replys about how it should be better.

If you want i'll go buy a AST 19 cam and get 130bhp, but wont be able to drive the car on the road anymore, but sure, at least i'll have justifyed the money spent.

Keith

[S_Gault]

correct me if im wrong Stuart arent you the guy that is spending silly money on billet adjuster solid followers when i told you how to make them yourself over a year ago?

and those numbers arent on my dyno.. so I'll ignore them.

and im surprised thats yous havent worked out that in N/A tuning you spend a lot to gain very little when an engine is well developed already.

11hp at that stage is a LOT.

its over 10%.. and are those figures corrected.. Keiths are.. I corrected them down from 123BHP!

[Aragorn]

an interesting point to note is that bruces 1600 8v unit is making 110lbft on the standard EFI manifold (which is fine as its a larger capacity engine)

but it's making 100lbft by about 3000rpm and once it peaks at 110lbft at around 5k it holds it all the way to 7k, yours peaks at 4500 and then just falls off...

yours is running a wilder cam (bruce is using a piper BP300H on hyds) and twin 40's yet bruces produces its torque band over a much wider rev range than yours?

there must be more power available in that motor without serious detriment to the low down drivability and it would seem to me that its running too small chokes or something as the power tails off waay too early for the spec of cam its running and the rest of the engine work

bruce chose hyds simply because he didnt want the extra expense of the setting up of the solids etc as he was already pushing his budget, his peak power was made at 7100rpm which was the rev limiter set by me because of the hyds and i didnt want to take it any higher even tho the power and torque graphs clearly show its got plently left in it

[Stuart]

correct me if im wrong Stuart arent you the guy that is spending silly money on billet adjuster solid followers when i told you how to make them yourself over a year ago?


i only spent ?50 on the shims once id made the solid lifters :P
yes its taken me a year of working but in all fairness the engine only took me 3 (slow) days to build so i dont think its that bad in all fairness lol
not all of us have a huge pot of money to throw at a car in one fell swoop

[benji]

hey. don't bring me into this.

steven, i don't know how accurate my figures are. all i know is i took it to a place to be set up, and thats what he gave me. and the car drove great afterwards.

as for the solid lifters. i think keith has done the right thing with them, any one who has seen me drive my car knows it get's killed everytime i take it out, and to be honest it's a miricle it hasn't died already, i have a ast2 cam and regularly rev it over 7K and the lifters take a battering, i have alrady replaced a set and now i have also damaged the new set. it's just been luck that nothing fatal has happened. what does a set of solid lifters cost? i have spent ?50 on my new set, + whatever i spen fixing them again next time, + the time it took me to change them, which i can do myself. as far as i know keith won't touch his engine(migt be wrong?) so that will also cost him for any labour.

i have spoken to keith about the engine and whle i do think there could of been abit more to be had from it, he does have his reasons. an i agree with him.

one thing i will say though, get it on the rollers again when you get back from the ring and try it with some 32mm chokes.

other than that, enjoy it.

[krobinson]

one thing i will say though, get it on the rollers again when you get back from the ring and try it with some 32mm chokes.

other than that, enjoy it.

Thanks Benji, once i get back from the ring, maybe early next year (after winter) i will get it back on the rollers with 32mm chokes, see if it makes a differance.

The cost of them doesnt justify buying a set to try, so i will hopefully borrow a set to try, and buy them if it helps.

Keith

[m.d.]

sounds like a strange engine to choose to me mate.

i can see both sides of the story tho so here is my 2 pence

reasons for building the engine you have:-

lightness for handling
1.3 8v for insurance
1.3 8v for simplicity
1.3 8v for pub talk when you just beat that gsi astra etc

resons you should have got a different engine:-

its not being used in competition so not governed by capacity (although its still too small to be competative in compatition as the class is up to 1400cc. and you would get whipped by a mildly tuned suzuki swift gti)
an engine as tuned as this will be just as expensive to insure as a standard 2.0 8v 1.6 16v
its not being used as a track car so handling is not an issue (you cant test out a cars handling properly on the road)
its a massive ammount of cash for what you have gained
you could have more power with less tune and better drivabilty from a 1.6 16v which would be more reliable too,

so basically for the use you are going for with this engine a standard 1.6 16v engine would be a much better and more sensible choice,
you have a mild race engine there despite what you say it is, which will be wasted on the road.

oh and a sri 130 2.0 8v can be had cleaned up and fitted for less than 500 quid, so you could have got decent coilovers (not cheaply built AVOs) a diff and poly bushes all probably for less than you have spent on yours, and they are cheap as chips to insure too.

not having a personal go at you mate as i like your car, just think you have chosen the wrong engine to tune

[krobinson]

I can see what your saying. The engine started out as a standard rebuild, using a webber 32/34 and a mild cam. And the spec got bigger and bigger as things went on.

After it sucked in the nut and wrecked a piston, thats when i changed the cam and went for the solids and 1400 pistons.

I didnt start out wanting the engine to turn out like this, it had its own way of working out. If i was to do it all again i would have done it to a 1.6 16v. However i will eventually do down that route, and use the 1300 in another shell for a fun hilclimb car.

Keith

[m.d.]

and use the 1300 in another shell for a fun hilclimb car.

Keith

now thats a plan mate, but put a 1.4 block on all your bits mate :wink:

keep up the good work on yours tho

[benji]

the 1300 block has been bored to a 1400 already

[S_Gault]

thanks for some sensible replies at last.

benji- was it yours i sorted out some carb details for you last year?

Chokes- well to be honest , the reason its so drivable is coz of 30mm chokes.

If it was one of my competition engines id have 45s on it for a start.

i know there may be 4-5hp more in this engine but it comes at the expensive of its road manners. and that really wasnt the brief..chokes are 16 quid each, and then i can start changing the ram length...remember dyno time is expensive.. where do you draw a line on a road engine?

and the rpm reading is only really as good as the digital calibration on the dash of the car as when you setit up on the dyno you calibrate the 3000rpm of the car to the rollers.. so it can drift a little as tyre growth becomes an issue at 100mph, perhaps as much as 200rpm, but if doesnt matter for setup as its a constant factor, if you know to take it into account.

and its still only a little 1300 block... you should see impact my new spec 1600 8v have done this year in competition..beating the oppositions 16v. ask keith!

If it was one of my competition engines id have 45s on it for a start.

[m.d.]

you should see impact my new spec 1600 8v have done this year in competition..beating the oppositions 16v. ask keith!


i know you cant change the engine in the car due to restrictions when competing, but i have found that the 1.4 8v will do better than a 1.6 8v in its class, as a 1.4 is the largest you can have in that class but 1.8 is the biggest you can have in the class that the 1.6 will be in,

[benji]

yes mate, it was me you helped. i managed to get another carb off my mate for ?20 and swapped all the chokes/jets over so i now have a matching pair.

[S_Gault]

quote-
i know you cant change the engine in the car due to restrictions when competing, but i have found that the 1.4 8v will do better than a 1.6 8v in its class, as a 1.4 is the largest you can have in that class but 1.8 is the biggest you can have in the class that the 1.6 will be in,[/quote]

I cant really see the above... the class limit is 1700 and its my 1600 8v s winning, they are easy 25hp up on the 1400s

[Nick]

the thing i find hard to understand is that you keep on saying, it's only a road engine,it's only a road engine, it's not a competition engine.

So why all the cash ? if it's not going to 7-8k everytime you drive it why does it need to be made more reliable than it was when it rolled out of the factory ?

my 1200 has been ultra-reliable, i can't see it throwing a rod or anything else driving around in a suitable rev-range

I was all up for buying the most expensive everything, getting every possible thing done to my 1600 8v untill i talked to a friend who is a "decent and honest professional" and he gave me a 10 minute lecture that will have saved me ???'s (and those ???'s would have been spent in his shop so he didn't have to do it) and the compromise of a little power - which you wont notice on a road.

After all, i'm building a driveable road engine and not a comp engine.

That's just my opinion on the matter, something i'm glad i realised before i parted with cash pointlessly.

but well done, car looks stunning and has a engine of equal calibre

infact, your car is plastered on signatures over the local chav cruise site !

[krobinson]

the thing i find hard to understand is that you keep on saying, it's only a road engine,it's only a road engine, it's not a competition engine.

So why all the cash ? if it's not going to 7-8k everytime you drive it why does it need to be made more reliable than it was when it rolled out of the factory ?

my 1200 has been ultra-reliable, i can't see it throwing a rod or anything else driving around in a suitable rev-range

I was all up for buying the most expensive everything, getting every possible thing done to my 1600 8v untill i talked to a friend who is a "decent and honest professional" and he gave me a 10 minute lecture that will have saved me ???'s (and those ???'s would have been spent in his shop so he didn't have to do it) and the compromise of a little power - which you wont notice on a road.

After all, i'm building a driveable road engine and not a comp engine.

That's just my opinion on the matter, something i'm glad i realised before i parted with cash pointlessly.

but well done, car looks stunning and has a engine of equal calibre

infact, your car is plastered on signatures over the local chav cruise site !

If you read back you'll notice the engine started out as a standard rebuild, it wasnt even going to tune it. Over a year later its a really good fast road engine, built to last. I didnt have ?? just to throw at it, i paid for bits and they were done, over time.

It all happened by accident, i never intended to have such a high spec 1300 at the start.

Keith

[dan16v]

it's Keiths engine and he is happy with it, so what dam difference does make!
every one could question each others spec, saying they dont need this or that. but at the end of the day who gives a fcuk, its the owners car.

[scott.parker]

it's Keiths engine and he is happy with it, so what dam difference does make!
every one could question each others spec, saying they dont need this or that. but at the end of the day who gives a fcuk, its the owners car.

Yeah well said Dan :wink: :lol:

Scott

[Nick]

If you read back you'll notice the engine started out as a standard rebuild, it wasnt even going to tune it. Over a year later its a really good fast road engine, built to last. I didnt have ?? just to throw at it, i paid for bits and they were done, over time.

It all happened by accident, i never intended to have such a high spec 1300 at the start.

Keith

i see, i never realised. I thought it was done as one all out rebuild.

well at the end of the day, it's a cracking car with a cracking engine

[m.d.]

quote-
i know you cant change the engine in the car due to restrictions when competing, but i have found that the 1.4 8v will do better than a 1.6 8v in its class, as a 1.4 is the largest you can have in that class but 1.8 is the biggest you can have in the class that the 1.6 will be in,

I cant really see the above... the class limit is 1700 and its my 1600 8v s winning, they are easy 25hp up on the 1400s[/quote]

what do you race in?????

all the hill climbs and sprints etc ive been to are 1.0 to 1.4 then 1.4 to 1.8 and 1.8 to 2.2 :|

[S_Gault]

check your national rules.. they are different.

british championship is same.. as i do it.

class 1 1400 8v

class 6- roadgoing to 1700cc

[_JH_]

Um, I can see all points of view here. Well done Keith, nice engine. Ignore the peak power, as you well know it's a small piece in a big puzzle. Good point Russ re the lifters, I'd agree myself. Craftsmenship on the part of mr Gault refusing to use hydraulic lifters. But I don't care.

What makes me laugh is this:

Gault, yes, you can build a winning engine. Well done you, I'm sure this one is bloody marvellous. But you don't half contradict yourself. "It's a road engine" you say, set to be 'driveable'. But aren't you the same guy that jumps into EVERY post concerning lost low down power in race engines with something along the lines of:

"blah blah blah, yeah yeah, all my race engines pull sweetly throughout the whole rev range"

check your previous posts.

And don't dig deeper with a comment about 'more' driveability in this engine, just make your mind up.

Once again, nice one Keith.

[BigRuss]

At last, somebody with sense :wink:

As said before, well done Keith. Not taking anything away from You at all, You've spent good money and have a nice quick car, well done again.

The prob here is as Derek Zoolander has had the balls to point out, Mr Gault. He contradicts himself time and time again, and tbh I find him very annoying.

Nobody likes a know all in any walk of life, especially one who mocks everyone elses efforts and claims his engines rev 50rpm more at limiter or deliver 2bhp more than someone elses, get a grip man!!!

Surely a competant engine builder would know the difference between a 1300 and a 1400? Oh and the difference between a dyno and a rolling road, he gets them mixed up a lot!!!

Have a pleasant evening :wink:

[S_Gault]

to be honest being able to pull low down and losing power low down are the same thing.. i dont see the contradiction. and i dont really care to be honest what a couple of forum monkeys think.

Most of it is down to poor weber setup, but im sure you knew that and the fact i spent 5 years working for a weber dealer wouldnt even help to back up any of my claims.

My pal DW (from a well knwon english tuning firm), recently said about internet forums being the home of the keyboard hero.. he who knows everything, as he was asked to answer a query and several "experts " shot him down straight away.. its no so common

I get feck all respect from english forums coz most of you guys have never seen my work. (unless you follow the british rallycross championship ).. thats to be expected, but what i hate is people who dont actually build engines telling others that do that they are just blatantly wrong. Its pretty immature. I've now so much work on that i have no time to spend argueing and getting my back up about silly things. so i thik i'll leave yous all to it. If any one sensible needs any free advice, they can contact me thru my site. www.s-g-performance.co.uk

oh and a rolling road is a chassis dyno... but im sure yous knew that too

[_JH_]

lol, your right. I know nothing about setting up webers - but I have a go, I don't build engines for a living - I build them for fun, and I don't follow British RallyCross - I follow some rallying, autograss, and the odd silage-cut derby :lol:

read what I said gault. You don't understand the point of these forums do you. It's not about free advertising for professionals, (nice plug with the web link, have you contributed financially to novaload.net in return lmao?).

Peoples opinions - normally the difference of - are one thing, and people talking out of their arse annoys everyone with half a brain. but it's also about more knowledgeable people helping those keen to learn. I'm sure your experience with vaux engines, rallycross, mini's etc is worthwhile. but you contradict yourself in the eyes of those who read your posts (in more ways than mentioned above). You then come across as a 'keyboard hero forum monkey' yourself.

If you want to take it as a personal attack on your skills and sulk away from here fine. but may I suggest you get off your oh so high horse, think before you post, and actually let people on here benefit from what you know, rather than get confused further.

and I read that comment by your 'pal' walker in a mag too lol

[Snowface]

each to their own. Nice engine. i got some 32mm chokes lying about if you want them at a v.reasonable price.