Anyone got a Pen, paper and a few mins?

[Dod]

Been talking to Keith about this one and we're not sure. Basicially i want a decent engine as opposed to the STD 1400 SPi i have at the mo. I've got loads of parts but dont really know where to start. Here's the list,


. 1400 SR engine complete with Carb, needs a rebuild
. 1300 SR engine complete with Carb, needs a rebuild
. 1600 GTE engine siezed, less Loom
. 1400 SPI engine complete. (in the car i'm driving)
. Weber 32/34 Carb from an XR3
. 270 deg Kent Cam
. 1400 Ported head thats not very well ported
. Ashley 4 Branch
. SS Exhaust System
. K&N Bolt on to Suit the SR Carbs
. Various STD Cams and Cam Carriers, 'i' Inlet Manifolds
. SRi CR box
. 1.2i box
And a 1600 Cav engine complete and a 14 SR engine complete with Box and Carbs if i want them.


Fuck Count Down, this'll keep you going for a while. :lol:

Time Starts......., NOW!!

[Dod]

Anyone?

[Philsutton]

Fuck Count Down, this'll keep you going for a while.

wahoo the swear filter isnt working, fuck fuck fuck.
Anyway i say use the 1600 bottom end with the GTE head so you sort of have a decent GTE engine then put cam an that in ect...

[dunova]

Fuck Count Down, this'll keep you going for a while.

wahoo the swear filter isnt working, fuck fuck fuck.
Anyway i say use the 1600 bottom end with the GTE head so you sort of have a decent GTE engine then put cam an that in ect...
Agreed and FUCK the gte loom, go for twin 40's :wink:

[Philsutton]

yep think thats the best way to bet the best power, use the decent bottom end with GTE head cam some twin 40s. Then sell everything else so you can afford to run it :lol:

[mikey14sr]

yep think thats the best way to bet the best power, use the decent bottom end with GTE head cam some twin 40s. Then sell everything else so you can afford to run it :lol:

lmao, defo the best solution, as long as the cavvy lump is small block, iirc some were based on the big block, think that was the earlier mk2 though.

[Dod]

The GTE would be FUCK'n nice but for insurance reasons i need to keep it as a 1500cc or lower on a technicality or i'll not even be quoted.

But keep going, its helping a good bit.

[mikey14sr]

If you need to stay under 1500, then I'd do this;

1400spi bottom end
1300 head
270 cam
4 branch and S/S system
1.4 carb ignition system (check dizzy fits cam)
either 1300 inlet with 32/34 carb or twin 40's with manifold for 1300

This should result in a nice 1.4 motor, if you could get the 1300 head ported properly aswell it should end up at around 100bhp.

On the gearbox side, go for the CR one, but what final drives do they each have?, as it might be worth swaping them?

[slammed saloon]

dnt suppose you wanna sell the 1.3 sr inlet n carb you have do ya?

[Aragorn]

i'd second what mikey 1.3sr said

but realise uMUST get that carb setup and jetted correctly for the engine

[Chris14SR]

My 40s would make a superb addition to any engine you build, as would my 1200 head and 285 degree cam. And they just happen to be up for sale ;)

[Jim]

Check the Cav gearbox to see if it has a 4.18FD. I think that's where I sourced my final drive from.

Jim

[si 1.7]

i had a 1.6 gte nova and i blow the engine and i got a 1.4 sri from a m8 and put that in and my insarance was ?300 deera cuz its still classed as a moddified car how w**k was that

[slammed saloon]

dod sham you wanna sell your 1.3 sr carb and inlet set up?? if so how much cuz im in desperate need of one!!!

[Dod]

Mikey, if i'm gonna use the Weber, will i still need the the injection system?

As for the Inlet mate, you wanna pay for postage, thats good for me, but remember, i'm in Ireland. Try the Parts for sale section in here. You'll get one far handier mate.


WHat CR box, or does it matter? If i get the code from the side of the box, can anyone tell me what the final drive is as someone was telling me about swapping them.

[mikey14sr]

you won't need any of the injection system if you put a carb on it, although you may aswell use the electric fuel pump and get a regulator to drop the fuel pressure. If you really want to keep the car on fuel injection, it would be best to use a 1.4 MPI head, along with the MPI injection, which would mean that all you've realy got to do is get a complete engine with electrics from an SRI.

As far as the gearbox goes, use the CR version anyway, I think they mostly came with 3.94 final drives, if you find the acceleration lacking, you can still change the final drive later on for a 4.18, which was mainly fitted to the WR tansmissions.

[Dod]

Na, i want Carbs. Getting the 1300 head ported is no problem and i already own one so thats a bonus. When you say the final drive, is this any particular gear, can i change it myself or should i get a Pro to do it?

Where can i get a fuel Regulator and roughly what does it cost?

[mikey14sr]

http://www.novaload.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=107316 thats the guide stuart did for changing the final drive.
Fuel pressure regulators cost around ?30, pretty much anyone who sells twin webers should sell them, as most people using twins run electric fuel pumps, especially on kit-cars.

[Dod]

Had the car on carbs before but all the Dash lights, ie the Engine and choke light kept staying on. How do i combat that?

[jamie gsi16v]

simon 1.7 turbo wrote
had a 1.6 gte nova and i blow the engine and i got a 1.4 sri from a m8 and put that in and my insarance was ?300 deera cuz its still classed as a moddified car how w**k was that when did you do this then mate, youve only ever had a flair with a fucked engine that ended up in loomes's?