Custom Dash

[Breathe]

How had is to customise my dash board?

Pic of examples would be good. thanks

Peace

[Jack]

Define "customize"

You can do as little as paint certain parts, or go the whole hog and rip the dash out and build your own...

[Breathe]

Yeh how easy is it build your own?

You done yours?

[Jack]

I only went so far as to painting certain parts on my old Hatch which was easy.

As for building a new dash, I would guess it all depends on how good you are with fibreglass, that'd probably be the easiest stuff to make one with. You could perhaps chop up and use your original dash as a base to build on?

[ade]

like above it depends on what you want to do.

I'm planning to do this and have obtained an old mk2 dash so i can use the basic frame as a guide.

1st thing you need is a plan of what you want to achieve. you need to know where your dials, switches, knobs, lights etc are gonna go - you then need to determine how much of the wiring will need to be cut/stretched, removed and relocated to its new location. Also will your dash cables (speedo etc) reach if youre planning on relocating the dash console or splitting it up...

2nd, if youre planning on using the existing parts (switches etc) you'll need to relocate the attachments from the dash to their new locations. If not you need to work out how to make new attachments (dont just glue them in place - what if a bulb blows or it malfunctions) and access panels to reach stuff.

3rd, make a detailed drawing so you know what its gonna look like.

4th if you can get hold of a spare dash to form your new dash round. this will save you having to do loads of measurements and give you the basic shape - especially that bit by the windscreen, doors etc...

5th use the spare dash as the template for the new dash by removing the vynal back to the bare hardboard, then using card build a mock dash and look at it to make sure it "looks right" (as in does everything sit well as you expect - if not move bits about. This will save you LOADS of agro later

6th start to build the dash out of what ever you want - I plan to use resin resistant styrofoam (foam board), body filler, papier mache, wood, mdf etc. This allows me to form the basic shapes I want and I can carve it and adjust to suite.

7th replace all the wtiches on the mock again to make sure youre happy and to test fittings

8th youre ready to take a copy. I would never just stick the above mock into the car - too heavy, rattley and if you had a smash it'd disentigrate and be a menace! You need to 1st make a mold. There are various ways you can copy your dash but the easiest way is to cover the whole thing in silver foil or masking tape (anything that resion cant stick to) - foil can be secured using spray glue. Block up any holes etc. then cover it in gel coat resin with a thixatropic paste to ensure it wont just run off (this thickens the mixture). The gelcoat will form copy exactly the dash so make sure the finish is good (you can always smoth the finished copy but it'll save time). when this turns tacky, you need to add a layer of resin and add fibreglass strips to this. Do this 3 times. This will reinforce the mold. Some people build a wooden frame to ensure the mold wont flex. If you have lots of undercuts, you may want to make the mold in 2 parts.

9th once fully dry remove the master - you'll probably have to break it to get it out so you need to make sure the mold is done properly. If youre not sure or have never made a mold before get a book on it - theres loads on making molds out of fibreglass (composites). Try and keep the shell of the old dash - theres a metal frame underneath that you'll be able to bond your new dash too.

10th youre ready to "lay" up your copy. 1st though you need to ensure you use a suitable release wax otherwise youre copy will stick to your mold. You can buy various releases - the most common is a form of PVA glue mixed with methalated spirits - dont make this - buy it and follow instructions. You start by laying up the gel coat, when tacky, lay up a layer iof resin and tissue fibreglass. Then 3 layers of resin anf fibreglass matting and if you want follow this with a final layer of resin anf tissue matting. At each stage, ensure the air is removed by "stippling" with a firm brush. Again any decent book can help you with this. Cut off any excess fibreglass before it dries solid (when its dry and sharp edges will cut like glass so be careful!)

Once dry, crack the mold from the copy (if done properly the mold will be okay and you'll be able to reuse it to flog copies). To clean up the copy 1st wash is warm soapy water, then you can rub down any imperfections etc, cut out the holes for dials etc and drill holes for fixtures.

Paint as you would do any panel, reattach the copy to the frame (you may need to make some adjustments depending on the thickness of the copy and mount in the car.

Sounds complicated - for a complete dash rebuild it proberly is however you'll be able to make your own custom dash - a unique modding feature of your car.

NOTE - I havent done this but thats what I plan to do

Ade
:wink:

[ade]

suitable reading on making molds are as follows -

The prop builders molding and casting handbook - written by Thurston James - ?13 ISBN 1 55870 128 1 (excellent on all kinds of mold making and copy)

Fibreglass and composite materials an enthusiasts guide to high performance non-metallic materials for automotive racing and marine use - written by forbes aird ?18.95 (US) - isbn 1 55788 239 8 (this book shows you how to make a car!)

Competition car compositesa practical handbook - written by Simon McBeath ?20 isbn 1 85960 624 5 (shows you how to make a ferrari f1 racing shell and good for molds)

All books can be bought as packs from Amazon.co.uk

Ade
:wink: