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Nick
16-06-05, 08:03 PM
Just trying to remove the head from a C16SE lump that's across at my mates house.

Have ditched everything, un-done all the head bolts e.t.c

however, it has No cambelt on it, and i know i have to remove the Crankshaft pulley, the camshaft pully and the auto belt tensioner.

I need some advice on how to do this without breaking any internals ? i'm ok witht the belt tensioner as i know you have to align the holes and is lockable by that. but im not 100% sure on how to reliably lock the Camshaft and crankshaft pullies !? (so that nothing moves out-of sync !)

Thanks nick !

Jules
16-06-05, 08:25 PM
Doesn't matter if it goes out of sync cos when you put it all back together you can line the top (cam) pulley up to TDC with the mark on the cambelt cover and when you put the Crank pulley back on you'll see that stamped on the actual cambelt cog there is a little arrow - this has to point down (so crank engine by hand until it is) then the bottom pulley will bolt to that in only one way as it has a little notch cut out of it which slots onto a little 'key' on the crank cog.

So to sumarise:

When re-assembling, line up the camshaft pulley with the TDC mark (It's with the crackshaft pulley mark at the top).
Line up the crackshaft cog with the arrow facing down (should be a mark to indicate where)
Put the cambelt on (slacken off auto-tensioner then relase it once belt is on).
Bolt bottom pulley onto crackshaft cog and fit the alternator belt.

Sounds tricky but it's a piece of cake.

EDIT: You don't need to remove the pre-tensioner or water pump when taking the head off - leave them in the block

Nick
16-06-05, 08:34 PM
sorry, yer i understand that jules

However, i don't want to hit something if i slip (i.e the equivalent of the belt snapping whilst driving)

What is the best way to lock the pullies? so that when i turn the bolts the Pullies just don't turn

Anyways, how did you get on with the TPS i sent, any joy ?

Aragorn
16-06-05, 10:51 PM
your best bet is to first of all wind the crank round so all the pistons are half way down their bores

undo the cam pulley by holding the flats on the cam with a big spanner and undoing the pulley bolt

undo the crank pulley by sticking summat in the flywheel teeth to stop it rotating and undo the bolt

Jules
16-06-05, 11:05 PM
sorry, yer i understand that jules

However, i don't want to hit something if i slip (i.e the equivalent of the belt snapping whilst driving)

What is the best way to lock the pullies? so that when i turn the bolts the Pullies just don't turn

Anyways, how did you get on with the TPS i sent, any joy ?

You can't get them out of aligment when tightening them up as the cambelt goes on first, put the camshaft pulley on first and line it up, line up the crankshaft pulley by lining up the arrow on the cog (leave the actual pulley for the alternator belt off) then put on the cambelt, just be careful when putting it on, beats way I found to do it is put it on the bottom first, get a flat blade screwdriver and move the pre-tensioner to you get more play on the cambelt, whilst holding the pre-tensioner 'open' with the screwdriver lean over the top of the drivers wing and slide the belt over the cam pulley.
When you do come to put the bottom pulley on (for the alternator belt) then you can skip any notches on the cambelt cos it's already on and the timing mark on the bottom pulley will be in the right place aslong as you put it on correctly and fit the little notch on the crankshaft end cog into the cutout on the crankshaft pulley - it really is simple and pretty fool proof.

TPS - put it on and it made no difference, I think it might be a problem with maybe the RON plug but it seems to be ok now so it's anyone's guess!!
:lol:

If you're unsure of what you're doing on the cambelt issue then ring or text me and I'll try and help over the phone (I'll PM the number).

Nick
17-06-05, 05:56 PM
Cheers aragorn that's exactly what i was after

That's what i did on Seans old 1.6 lump, but wasn't sure on wether it was the best way to go about it !

Thanks jules, but i mean taking them off really ! still quite a nice usefull explanation of "textbook" setting up !

Ste_Nova
17-06-05, 06:49 PM
wtf??? just rip the head off... no need to take anything else off

Nick
17-06-05, 06:52 PM
on post 1990 1.6's they have an auto belt tensioner and to remove the head you have to remove the camshaft pullie and the crankshaft pullie to get the backplate off (unless you just cutt it in half)

that's what it says in the haynes, and that's what it's like on both 1.6's i have

Jules
17-06-05, 10:13 PM
You don't need to remove the whole back plate, there are two torx head bolts that go through the backplate and bolt into the top of the cam carrier behind where the camshaft pulley is you can get to them either by taking the pulley off or by going through the holes in the pulley, doesn;t matter either way really.
But the whole backplate can most definately stay on.

Nick
18-06-05, 01:10 AM
ok, but it's not just a case of "ripping" the head off like Ste said.

Especially when you have one of the ones with the Flat top Cam back cover

Snowface
18-06-05, 10:09 AM
just get an air rachet and undo bottom pulley bolt before you do anything. or just use a bar and hit it with a hammer, that way you should have enough compression to stop it turning enough.

The cam cover is only held on to the head by 2 Bolts, can't you undo those and then just take head off anyway? You can pull/bend the plastic cam cover back far enough to get the head off.

Snowface
18-06-05, 10:10 AM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v642/Snowface-85/dat3.jpg