de-locked problem...

[alxlaw]

ok iv filled in the lock holes unfortunatly only one side has worked ok. the drivers side was attacked by chavs and was severly bent out, iv attempted to bend it in n make it flush but its not quite perfect, well its crap if im honist, i want to know either how much it would cost for a bodyshop to come out n fill it properly or how i go about doing it properly myself............thx

http://www.novaload.net/images/car_images/2205big3.jpg

[Adam]

Whats bent out?
The door frame?

Or where you have filled the door lock hole?

[Riggy]

what is the pic of the wheel for

[Mike.]

i would have made a small dent around the hole left by the lock, then filled over it

[alxlaw]

the pic is the best one iv got of the drivers door, what is the corect order of filling sanding, painting, what sort of grade should i use n what sort of primer, the otherside is perfect i dunno what i did wrong

[novaco]

did you jst use filler mate or did you weld a plate behind the hole aswel?

[ade]

when I did mine, I bought a washer and a bolt with a flat top and then bolted it from the inside like the old blanking plates. I then used epoxy resin on the inside to make it water tight and then filled the recess.

Before mounting the bolt, key the paint (just sand with 240 wet n dry) to give the filler summut to stick to.

Im presuming you know how to duismantle your door to get to the lock - if not see haynes manual

Then apply the planking plate - or weld a plate from behind - or if youre cheap glue a thick bit opf plastic using epoxy resin from the inside.

Once resin dry, skim with filler - build up in layers - just mix, skim over hole and leave to set - 10 mins - then skim again - dont go back and mess with it - thats how it gets weakened...

Once youve skimmed it a couple of times and its hardened, sand down using an orbital sander (or a sanding block) - make sure your sandpaper is dry - filler is pourous and will absorb water. Start with 240 to get the shape then reduce to 400 - you will end up scoring the paint work around the area - this is okay as you'll need to respray most of the door (if not all) to get a good paint blend - especially if cars red like mine was. If its the one above (white) then you'll have no probs

Once smooth, skim the surface with cellulose putty or knifing putty - this is very fine filler and will seal those small pin holes that always knacker a good paint finish on fillered areas. Sand (dry) with 600 and then 800 paper - use a block to avoid wrinkles in the filler (your fingers arent flat)

You can now clean up the area using suitable degreaser to remove dust and crap.

Next take a thin cloth (muslin or similar) and put it between your hand and the filled area and run your hand over the area - if you can fieel any ripples, dents or anything that doesnt feel smooth - repeat above stages until totally smooth. The cloth hightens the senses on your fingertips.

Degrease the area again and prep for spraying...ie mask other areas off - if you can - remove the whole door and mask the window area off - leaving the lower area.

Before spraying, degrease again - then just prior to painting use a tack cloth to remove any last particles of dust - making sure spray area is clean (obviously)

If car is white - prime using 3 coats of white primer - allowing to tack dry between coats. Allow full drying time then if youre anal spray over door with fine mist of speckle coat (an old tin or matt black paint). When dry sand smooth using 800 grit wet n dry - use dry and primer is pourous until all black spots are gone - once gone your paint wotk is totally flat

Repeat degreasing / tack process and spray 3 coats with correct white paint.

Allow to fully cure.

To make paint flow well (if using cans) stick in a bucket of not boiling but v hot water for 5 mins - shaking all the time - this loosens the paint making if more fluid. Make sure you dry the can and spray nozzle area fully before spraying on to panel - last thing you want is water blobs on new paint

Ade
8)

[Matt2107]

To make paint flow well (if using cans) stick in a bucket of not boiling but v hot water for 5 mins - shaking all the time - this loosens the paint making if more fluid. Make sure you dry the can and spray nozzle area fully before spraying on to panel - last thing you want is water blobs on new paint

Excellent tip that last one.

[alxlaw]

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a326/alxlaw/PICT0038.jpg


so close yet so far!! grrrrr! i hate filler !!!!

[ade]

looks ok-ish.

You just need to give it another skim - sand down then skim again with cellulose putty - filler paste...

smooth then spray...

:wink:

[notenuffhoursintheday]

ive just had the problem your having mate but ive just this moment drilled a hole bigger than the lock recess so now its flat then cut a plate from some sheet metal i had tacked it on then just filled it :D peice of piss if u have a welder

[alxlaw]

im gonna bash it out n start again, theres a big bulge at the bottom wich is really obvious im gonna hammer sh*t out of it until its as flat as a pancake do A PROPPA' JOB!

[novamadcars]

well not only me then i had my drivers door bent out a few weeks ago f***ing chavs was thair for half hour bending it back in and it still dont look right put it this way my car dosent fill like mine any more :cry:

[ade]

that's a biatch - feel violated when someone does your car. My locks got mashed a few yrs ago - just the locks (cost ?5 for a new drivers one) but I went pure mental!

:evil: