T40 setup

[Stuart]

righteo

Ive stripped the carbs i have down, the cable choke setup will be filled with chemical metal due to an irreperabal fault with one of them.
I noted all the jet/tube etc sizes

what i want to know is whats the weber base setup to enable the car to be started and run about safely till about 500-1000 miles coverd for run-in.

Ill probably run on 30/32mm chokes due to it only being a 1200 with a +1mm overbore, high compression, 1.6 sized valves, heavily ported head by a bloke from mig show knows his stuff rather well, 303 degree (0.1mm of lift) flat nosed solid profile cam, solid lifters etc.

Id like to try an run on non super unleaded but i dont think thats gonna happen lmao. so super it will be (NOT optiflax)

so i need the time learnt estimates on mains/emulsions/idle/ air correction/needle valve sizes please

[Ben]

I wouldnt worry to much you will be rebuilding it every 1/4 mile run anyhow!

[Stuart]

:p

it should cover more distance than ricks first build :o)

[S_Gault]

use a 30mm choke, you'll never need any more.

- 115mains,
F16 emulsion tube
175-180 air (depends on your headwork) prob about 80cfm on my flowbench
40 pump
45f9 idle

that'll prob be pretty sweet.

the solid followers- are you making them or are you buying the kent ones at an extortinate amount of money.

Steven

[Stuart]

the solids are a homoligation of own design and cat cams shims etc

the catcam solids are about ?170 for the billets and then ?4.50 per shim. but ive made my own billet type things ;)

[S_Gault]

why not do it like ive done for 10 years and weld the hydralic lifter.

then use shims.

helps if you have a shim grinder (like me!!)

Steven

[Stuart]

the hydraulics will be welded to become the "billet" type that catcams make ;)

im being supplied a shim and i will have to fanny about with that and the head to measure up the clearences and get the shims sent down from scotland. its a bit of effort now but it saves having to change the hydraulic ones every 1000 miles lol

[S_Gault]

been doing it that way for many years. Its 100% reliable.

trick is to weld them in correct place so not to need too big a shim.

although ive done it many times and still ahve to plug the shim grinder in to set a couple.

where are you getting shims from? got a link

Ive always made my own and for others .

Steven

[Stuart]

from a bloke in scotland but he imports from www.catcams.be

[Stuart]

what about the needle valve size, and start jets?

currently the needle valve jet is 0.150 and the start jets are 200 60F9.

[S_Gault]

needle valves are prob ok at that .. remember youve 2 of them.

start jets... never worry about them.. choke on sidedraught carbs is more trouble than they are worth.

once they are set up right al thats needed is to press throttle 3 times prior to turning key.

Steven

[Stuart]

ahh theya re for the choke ;) magic. thats being filled with chemical metal anyway since the pistons got seized in and had to be drilled out lol.

[Stuart]

also what length trumpets should i use?
they are the old style flange ones (hee hee flange)

just a rough idea to get me running

[S_Gault]

they shouldnt be flange fitting.. those are dellorto trumpets.

use any length.. till you get it on dyno..

swing cam timing on rollers, then start messing with them as it will change your needs

Steven

[Stuart]

they are flange fitting, they are old carbs.

and they arent dellortos

[S_Gault]

no no.

the trumpets are dellorto ones. the carbs may well be weber.

But all webers have a sleeve fitting .

Steven

[Stuart]

furry muff, id still prefer to use the flange ones as there is less fiddly little bits of metal to get sucked into the engine ;)

[S_Gault]

theres no prob in using either.

Steven

[Snowface]

the fuel enrichment circuit (choke) is notorious for going tits up apparently.

Dellorto type trumpets will fit some Weber's. I have seen pictures with them on.

[Snowface]

i also believe that keith was using the fiddly Weber type fixing (that holds trumpet in) that got sucked in engine.

[Stuart]

ill stick with the flanged ones i have, looks like a "safer" trumpet mount ;)

also the start circuit is being filled with chemical metal

[Snowface]

whn you say 'Flange' is that the ones that slide in? Cause they use the fixing that got sucked into kieth's engine.

The ones that bolt on juts have a bolt/stud and nut holding them.

[Stuart]

i mean they have a flange essentially like the other end of the carb so you place a normal nut and bolt through it to secure the trumpet to the carb. less fiddly little bits of metal to risk being dropped in the carb.

[S_Gault]

in fact in engineering terms a stud is better than a bolt,

theres is no difference in the mounting arrangement of either trumpet, both would have originally used studs.

Steven

[krobinson]

furry muff, id still prefer to use the flange ones as there is less fiddly little bits of metal to get sucked into the engine ;)

Cheeky cu*t!!! :cry:

Suppose better safe than sorry tho. Just make sure its all tight!

Looking forward to seeing the results of this 1.2.

Keith