skimming alloy wheels to change offset

[ade]

Been considering this for a while rather than fork out for a new set.

Anyone ever done it, know roughly how much it is per wheel and how much is "safe" to take off.

Say the wheel you were skimming was ET38 and you wanted to get it to ET 48 (I'm guissing you'd need to lose 10mm)?

Would a standard machine/engineering shop do it or somewhere else?

Ade

[shy witness]

ive heard of people doing that before--allthough i dont know how safe that would be--- coz obviosly if ur goin 2 machine off the likes of 10mm,the mounting point from the wheel 2 the hub is goin 2b severely weakened and more stressed-------personally i wouldnt go for it at all but im sure someone maybe knows different :roll:

[benji]

you also haveto remeber that it will bring the wheel 10mm closer to the brakes, might not be a problem but check first.

[Spud]

There was a guy on on here recently who had it done it think, I'll see what I can find

[Spud]

http://www.novaload.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=107780

Theres some stuff in there about it. Ask the guy whos had it done it Aberdeen

[Jack]

Didn't Matt2107 get some done? afaik he only went from 45-49 tho. I wouldn't recommend going any more than 5mm really.

Increasing the offset will push the wheels back into the arch, so as benji said you may have brake caliper clearance problems; also the wheels may catch on suspension components. In my experience though I've never seen this to be a problem on novas unless you have mahoosive aftermarket calipers fitted. If you want caliper clearance problems go take a look at a Celica ST205!! :evil:

[Ash]

i went from et38 to et42 - it fine, if they get the wheel to sit flat (i did have strange curvey wheels) then they bulked, now i got me arches rolled and some 7" wide wheels :D

[Jack]

I recognise those wheels... and that car... lol

[jamie gsi16v]

for one your wheels will be closer to your shocker, 2 closer to your chassis leg and may rub on full lock and 3 you will be making the cone shaped bit of th bolts alot closer to the face of your wheel and they may eventually pull out and you wheel overtaking you, it isnt safe!!

[Aragorn]

take the wheel off and look at the hub section

you'll see cone shaped bit which the bolt seats against then it will turn into a std 10mm diameter hole

i wouldnt recommend removing any more than HALF of that streight 10mm hole
and defo dont go all the way back to the cone section

when i looked at my ET38 teamdynamics wheels there was only about 5mm of streight 10mm hole before the taper section started and removing 2.5mm really wasnt worth it so i didnt bother

[Ste_Nova]

from what i remeber you must have 7mm on straight... remeber most wheels are cut from blanks

[Aragorn]

even if they are cut from blanks that doesnt help

if the wheel is designed for ET38 it'll be designed so it has the required strength at et38, nearly all other sizes are lower and so have more metal

if someone orders an et15 they'd just bore the cone section further in and that means u couldnt take an ET15 wheel of same design and have it machined back to et38 as the bolt would jsut fall thru

[ade]

mmm - think for the poss probs I'll just leave them.

Prob source some new wheels at correct offset - eventually...

Ade