advance timing with 40's

[madcodling]

well i just recently serviced me weber 40s and just put them back on and im just in the middle of gettin it runnin again.
but i need to know about the advance timing and how many degrees btdc i should set it.

could u let me know wat everyone else are using aswell plz

heres my spec: stage 2 cyclinder head
kent fast road cam
kent blue vernier pulley
twin weber 40's
4 branch manifold
full magnex stainless steel exhaust 3"

also i want to know about the black tube on the distributor,
wat do i do with this?

[burgo]

the black tube is your vacume advance just ignore it lol

[Stuart]

ohhh a blue pulley, they are best for torque. best power comes form the red ones.


and WTF is a stage 2 head? why oh why do people quote that?

anyway RE ign timing, its very very very independant to a given engine, ie you ahve to get it setup on a RR.

[NovaloadedAgain]

Well thats a relief....I have a red vernier Pulley! Watch out Here I come! Lol. :wink:

[MC]

Basic rule to get running:

95ron - 5 btdc

98ron - 10 btdc

That is good enough to get you going but as Camb said, get it RR'd.

And I agree regarding statement on stage 2 head. Meaningless, specification is needed.

MC

[Aragorn]

mine are rusty steel colored!

they give even more power than red and blues and ive got 2 on there 8) they are also stamped GM for that authentic look :wink:

:lol:

on a serious note both dans and oxfords 1600 twincarb engines were both running with their verniers set to 0 with kent ast2's so its prolly a waste of time

[NovaGSi1600]

I've a red one but felt I was lacking a bit of torque, so I painted half the pully blue - a real budget mod

Cheers,
Mick

[madcodling]

well all i know is that i have the papers for the head and thats all it say,and it cost the other guy 200 quid a couple of years ago.

ill take the head off and im gonna measure the valves against a standard 1.3 head and check the ports aswell for size.

is there anything else i should check to see wat type off work it has had?

[Snowface]

if your really serious i think there are certain adjustments you can do to the weight (?) inside the disributor to change the level of advance. But i'm not sure if thats relevant when not using vacuum advance.

Might be worth getting a book to read up on it.

[MC]

For ?200 you are likely to have a ported head and not much else. A well worked head will not be evident by the size of the port at the manifold interface. All the work is done close down to the neck of the valve.

You can adjust the advance curve by putting a spot of weld on the stop of the distributor, which reduces the travel. You can then advance the ignition without fear of detonation at the top end, but with more advance where it is needed at the lower end. Best done by someone who knows what they are doing.

MC