View Full Version : T40 Cold air feed?
NovaloadedAgain
18-02-05, 09:10 PM
Does anybody have any good pics of fixing up a cold air feed system for T40's. Im running one of those irmscher airboxes on top of my nova sport 40's, I have a bonnet vent, But want some air induction, How would I be best to go about this?
What piping, Rubber etc?
Any help appreciated.
Barry
This is the set up I have on my engine, it's just some tumble drier ducting. Air temps showed they drop to near ambient fter abotu 10secs of moving. Not exactly beautiful, but effective.
http://img225.exs.cx/img225/3022/airfeed4aw.th.jpg (http://img225.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img225&image=airfeed4aw.jpg)
NovaloadedAgain
19-02-05, 11:25 AM
Excellent thanks for going to that effort mate, Would you say its made a difference?
I can't say really as I put it in straight away. but I sat in a petrol stdation for 5mins and bonnet temps got to abotu 45deg. then I pulled out and by the time igot to mid third gear it was back down to 7deg, and was 4outside.
If that gives you an idea. when I get the car running again I'll do some back to back testing.
NovaloadedAgain
19-02-05, 11:29 AM
I got the astra 8v digi dash & The temp very rarely goes to 3 bars, 99% of the time stays on 2 bars. Only when stationary in traffic etc it may rise. Summer will be the test! Usually for winter weather you need warm air for the carbs Ive been told, So Im best off sorting this for the summer!
There's an air temp sensor on the astra dash? that's handy.
Icing the carbs, not too handy. :cry: But I would have thought a airbox would stop that. any pics of your bay??
NovaloadedAgain
19-02-05, 11:37 AM
Have a vent above airbox too.
Sorry didnt mean air temp gauge, Ment engine temp gauge.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/NovaloadedAgain/ENGINEBAY.jpg
The pics not the best but you get the idea
Nice, found in the summer mine was heating up over 70 cause the gearbox is geared low, 4,000 at 70 :cry: Still found cutting big holes in the fan cowling made a differnce, btu got a GSi one and a 13row cooler to go in now :lol:
good way to get cold air to carbs is to remove the top of the bulkhead in a proper fashion and eleminate the need for a vent.
http://www2.novaload.net/files/dan/fin2.jpg
When i was running my gte shell i had two 3" feeds running from behind the grill and one from the floor directed at the rear of the carbs and a vent on the top to direct the air down ontop of them, although i have an all in one foam filter rather than the air box
NovaloadedAgain
19-02-05, 12:58 PM
Hi Dan I remember chatting to you at the MK meet, Remember your bulkhead Chop now! I may do that.
I was thinking more like forced air induction? Any suggestions? Should I make some kind of hosing to sit on the wing & get it as close as possible to the grill would that ade cooling?
just rig up some tubing.
tbh it's not going to give you 30bhp, so really as long as it's getting some more cool air towards the intakes, then it should help as much as it can.
Dan, Can you fit one of those Pipercross (or similar) one peice filters behind the 40's with the top of the bulkhead panel still on ?
yes it is possible if you get the correct one, they do a small piperx one that is ideal for novas. The following pic shows the room left once the bigger style one i have is fitted.........
http://www2.novaload.net/files/dan/fil6.jpg
here is a rough price list and whats what............. http://www.needforspeed.co.uk/pages/sbv_pl.asp?Vehicle=UV___01&PartType=AFP26 .......... I'm sure my old one was a 55mm to outer face and 40mm to inner face filter which was a nice fit when i ran the bulkhead shell. Also gave me suffient clearences running 16mm trumpets (24mm)
ok cheers dan, top info.
I doubt i'm going to beable to get the bulkhead top removed. So hopefully i should be able to find something that will fit behind the carbs, even if they are the trumpet socks :roll:
another question, did you weld your bay ?
i drilled holes in bonnet under scoop and cools engine down it never hardly moves my temp gauge when im driving
General Baxter
19-02-05, 09:45 PM
i got some nice samco blue 3" tubing running upto my carbs :lol:
u have that hosing every where ;\ lol why not have a blue samco exaust :D
General Baxter
19-02-05, 09:47 PM
erm it would melt :?
i was taking the piss sorry..
General Baxter
19-02-05, 10:12 PM
so you should be ;) :roll:
yes nick the bay is inch for inch welded along with the rest of the shell lol, Trumpet length isnt an issue when it comes to power in my experience. I have always ran 16mm trumpets and as explained the 50mm filter was ideal when i had a bulkhead, i just replaced it for a bigger filter after the reshell due to more room.
Socks are ok, but each port has a complete surround of foam, where as a single long filter imo lets the carbs breath easier.
Snowface
20-02-05, 11:35 AM
erm it would melt :?
don't think they would melt. They can stand hell of a lot of heat (thats what there designed for).
not a good idea though. :)
NovaloadedAgain
20-02-05, 05:05 PM
Lol, wasnt asking the question for 30bhp gains! But thanks for the help guys, I think a simple hoover hose will do the trick, every little bit of cooling helps.
I will post up some pics of my new "dyson" nova engine bay soon. Lol
lol:P i mite try that i have some old hoses mite stick one next to the k and n see if it makes any diff .
yes nick the bay is inch for inch welded along with the rest of the shell lol, Trumpet length isnt an issue when it comes to power in my experience. I have always ran 16mm trumpets and as explained the 50mm filter was ideal when i had a bulkhead, i just replaced it for a bigger filter after the reshell due to more room.
Socks are ok, but each port has a complete surround of foam, where as a single long filter imo lets the carbs breath easier.
right... so you'd recommend by your own expirience that the bay (at least) needs to be stitch welded ?
i was plannig to run it un-welded, as i thought i'd have the Bhp of a XE, but without the Torque and Weight.
IIRC Jim said he runs his without any strengthening , only a strut brace "to keep things tight"
re: engine bay strengthening - here's what i reckon:
strut brace only if
-less than 150 hp
-sound shell esp where the front engine bay cross member attaches to the chassis leg
-not a 2.0l
-for road use
strengthening inc seam welding and/or plating up if
-more than 150hp
- a valver
- shell a bit tired with corrosion round the bay
- you want the beneficial effects of a tauter shell
- involved in or expecting to sell into motorsport when you come to sell it.
cool thanks CP
well, my shell is pretty mint condition, no corrosion in the bay, jst a bit of surface rust in a very few places.
i'm looking at around 150bhp
for road use (and fun track use)
1.6 T40
in reply to cp's lists, mine was welded all over the place to tighten up the chassis which it did brilliantly, the engine bay was just part and parcel of it.
The bay in particular has always been a personal preference of mine due to the rough roads around my way and the car being driven properly. Also alot of me mates rally and race so stitch welding is just part and parcel of building a car lol.
right, i don't really have the time to strip the whole shell or the bay properly when the new engine goes in.
Also, the only person i really know well is a formulae ford guy and i've seen his welding skills :wink: So i doubt i'd have the contacts to get it done on the cheap, and money is beggining to become a limiting factor.
Hopefully it should be alrite, the car wont be used much anyway (uni)
You hit the key issue on the head, if the shell is of a decent standard then it doesnt become as essential, esp for road use with the odd bit of track fun.
Both my shells have had the engine removed/shell stripped and both times i have been lucky enough to have friends around that have the necessary skills to prep the cars as i have wanted. For me it was an easy option to get it done amongst other jobs whilst on a tight budget
k thanks for the info dan
if i was to take some general photos of the engine bay, covering as many angles as i can, would you mind looking over them and giving me your opinion on it ? i'm pretty sure it's in good condition.
it's just i have a lack of friends who have nova's, and you obviously know what your talking about !
Back to the original question:
You will gain more bhp by ditching the Irmsher airbox than you will by fitting 20 cold air feeds. The main benefit of having twin carbs is increasing the breathing capacity by having 4x 40mm intakes. Why reduce it back down to 1 intake and make the air perform two 90 degree turns?
The Irmsher airbox was only fitted as it enabled easy routing of the induction through a filter and probaly dulled the noise.
Save the airbox though, they are thin on the ground.
MC
The airbox can't be that restrictive, as it's give a plenium, which will boost torque in the rev range. also the inlet for the airbox is bigger than 40mm round, and as only one cylinder fills at a time it's not likely to be restrictive.
Keep the airbox and fit a piper to run to the font grill, it's more abotu fresh supply of air than getting any pressure in the inlet.
NovaloadedAgain
23-02-05, 11:18 AM
Yeah Ive been told it restricts the air, But My bonnet vent is directly on top of the airbox, So its good to have what with all the snow around here, Stps snow on me carbs! I wouldnt sell the airbox as there rare anyway, But I might just take the top off the airbox in the summer for more noise & air flow.
I now have a cold air feed behind the grill upto the box.
Snowface
23-02-05, 11:34 AM
if the airbox is fed by a ram pipe then it shouldn't be so bad.
NovaloadedAgain
23-02-05, 11:48 AM
Ok thats what I'll buy, Thanks for all the help
granted the intake might be greater than 40mm and "only one cylinder is pulling air in at one time" but as the time for air intake is sooo short, pulses will form and restrict the air flow etc.
so its swings and roundabouts for the airbox, but most people who run carbs/TB's dont have an airbox unless the air is particularly hot round the trumpets or they are trying to pass noise restrictions for track days etc.
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