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NovaloadedAgain
01-02-05, 12:21 PM
Is it true when you change the cam to run it at 2000rpm or there about for 20 mins to wear in before road use? Also when I have this done & I have a kevlar cam belt installed do the cam tensionners need to be changed??

Ive been told to buy the following:

Piper cam 285 (Fast road cam) the kit consists of Followers, Hydraulic adjusters. ?320

Also to buy:

Vernier Pulley ?90
Cam belt ?30

And a rocker gasket. Anything else I'll need???
Anything to be careful about when installing & first using the cam?

Any help/ advice appreciated.
http://www.novaload.net/features/viewfeature.php?ref=2104

Stuart
01-02-05, 12:36 PM
unless youve got the funky sykes pikavant tool you need to renew the ehad gakset and bolts too ast he cam carrier is bolted to the head via the head bolts.

and yes you need to run the engine at fast idel for 10 mins to make sure its well lunbricated first, its also a very good idea to use cam lube, its like treacle so it sticks to the cam and maintains the vital first few mins of lube

Snowface
01-02-05, 06:03 PM
removing the head is the easiest way if you gotta put springs and followers in etc.

to get the righ ttools to change cam with out taking head off will cost quite a bit i'd imagine, compared to a top gasket set.

NovaloadedAgain
02-02-05, 08:12 AM
Ive managed to buy a 1.3 cam carrier with the 285 installed. So does that make life alittle simpler? much better then paying ?320!!! But Ive been told I will need a different vernier as the teeth are different. Not a problem. Im not going to use the standard one.

As im changing the cam belt will I need new tensionners?

My mate has got the tools to do the work, But he says we'd have to do the head gasket probably, unless we can clamp it down.

Its worth doing the mod as its recommended for twin 40's & should get a few ponies more also.

So really I need to get a head gasket, Rocker gasket, Cam lube, Followers etc

Would I be able to just change the cam without changing the springs? Do i need to change the followers & springs etc?

I also think my valve seals are starting to go as she smokes alittle, I think it would be best to replace them too.

NovaloadedAgain
02-02-05, 12:14 PM
Ive struck lucky & have been advised by a local car factors that there is a bloke 3 miles away from me who builds competition Escort series 1's who can undertake this kind of work without breaking a sweat. He wont need to remove the head!
Result!

Snowface
02-02-05, 07:12 PM
don't change the cam belt to a different type. if you do then you'll have to change the water pump and crank sprocket.

Just swap your top pulley's over. much easier.

after 1989 cambelt teeth are all the rounded type. before that they were squared.

skud52
02-02-05, 09:25 PM
u dont have tensioners, u just use the water pump, however it would be a good idea to change

NovaloadedAgain
03-02-05, 09:01 AM
Why will i need to change the water pump???

Also I want to get a upm rated cam belt, Its advised? Or is that just to get more cash?

The shop want to know before I can order the vernier, How many teeth my cam belt has 104 or 111 I think they said? Any ideas?

Aragorn
03-02-05, 10:25 AM
no idea why it should matter on belt length but the shorter belt is for engines without tensioner

just use a std cam belt none of these stupid "performance" items

Stuart
03-02-05, 11:41 AM
after seeing jims cam belt dancing round like a fairy on the rollers id suggest binning the auto tensioner and just doing the crank-waterpump-cam setup so you get a good reliable system.

NovaloadedAgain
03-02-05, 12:03 PM
Im very confused!