hydaulic H brake

[VXRALLY]

has anyone got a diagram or can do me one of how to plum in a hydaulic handbrake. if this helps its no14 on page 297 in the motorsport demontweeks.i have a fairly good idear of how it goes but with it being my brakes i would like to get this correct first time. thank you

[nathan.]

are you using a single brake line from the master cylinder to the rear brakes and t-piecing it off at the rear. well this is what you need to do!

then somewhere in the single brake line, fit your master cylinder for the handbrake.

use new brake lines/pipes. (stainless braided is the best although you can use copper brake pipe)

does this make sense?

nath

[Dar]

Just a side point. If you want to use the car on the road as well, I think it will fail the MOT for not having a cable operated handbreak.

[VXRALLY]

yep thats what i was thinking of doing. but master cyclinder has two outlets for rear (one per side). so could try blanking one and running the rear brake system of one outlet. but with doing this will i lose brake efficencey on the rears????? or could i buy a master cyclinder to to the job ????? as for being legal you leave cable handbrake where it is.

[nathan.]

which master cylinder has 2 outlets.

the 1 at the servo has 2 outlets for front and rear diagonaly i think. (not sure if novas have split line braking)

the master cylinder on the picture in demon tweeks has an inlet and outlet.

why dont you make your own hyd handbrake. really easy.

[VXRALLY]

the handbrake cyclinder has one inlet and one out

the car has two outlets for front and two outlets for rear. bit late for making one cos fell in love with one i have lol. so the one i have fits in the rear brake line. but the problem i have is that i have two outlets on the cars brake cyclinder. when really i only need one outlet. so can you think of a good way around this???

[nathan.]

didnt realise they had four outlets, just been out in the freezing cold to have a look at mine :lol: :lol: :lol: .

not sure if it possible to t-piece the 2 pipes into 1. if you blank 1 off, i dont think there will be enough force to the rear brakes.

[VXRALLY]

thats it its got to be. why didnt i think of that!!! (stupid brain, must be in nugget mode) has anyone tried this??? this should work as long as pipes are same lenth both sides and so on cos of pressure.( well it make's sence in my head) so then guys are we saying try it this way or is there a differant way? thanks mate for your help. you made me look like right plum head lol

[Mike]

u dont want to just "try it this way" or "try it that way" :o

u want to do it PROPERLY! brakes are the only fing that stop ur car! :roll:

call courtenay sport/regal etc and ask for sum advice b4 u start phissin about with ur braking system :!:

[skud52]

use a t piece for the 2 outlets on the master cylinder and run the single line to the handbrake, then use another t piece to split the brake line into 2 after the hand brake

that way you dont have to blank of the 2nd outlet on the master cylinder

[Dan]

when we built mine in the summer we blanked off 2 of the outloets and ran one of the rears to both rear and like wise to the fronts

You can use the standard system i believe by reversing the ratchet on the handbrake so it retains the flyoff effect but can be set for fixed park, have seen it on many other makes before within rally circles. I shall be doing this myself at a later date.

a pic of my rears

http://www2.novaload.net/files/dan/fin4.jpg

Also a few words from CP after we had finished the reshell


Brake line info.

We used 4.75mm soft copper brake tubing. I have a flaring kit and we used 10 mm unions on the flared ends where they fitted (flexible brake pipe unions) and used appropriate recovered nova ones else where (on the master cylinder basically)

The brake lines were simplified as per rally spec - ie one line to both rears and 1 line to both fronts. This requires the lines to have a "T" installed which i got for a few quid each from a local pneumatic suppliers. These come with olives so no flaring is needed. Spare outlets on the master cylinder are blanked off using a little piece of copper pipe crimped and brazed to seal it up. Right angled unions were used to go down through the body at the rear and through the bulkhead at the front just above the central tunnel again with the olive connectors. The normal brake biassing valve was retained for the rear circuit. The front circuit was bent and formed to go the same route as the std setup

The whole thing is very easy and straight forward to do really and not too expensive