F13 gearbox rebuild

[ollster]

I have my f13 cr box in bits at the moment (took selector turret off and levered the cassette out).

Is there anything in particular that i should look for, all the gears look in tact and there is no visible sign of damage?

I have checked the final drive and i think it is 3.94, but if someone could confirm the teeth numbers for different fd's i would appreciate it?

Also when it come to reassembly is there anything in particular that i have to do (the diff is still in and I haven?t touched it) e.g. align selector etc? If anyone has any pictures diagrams or guides I would appreciate it.

Cheers in advance

[-Bruce-]

4.18 final drive has 71 teeth on the crownwheel

and 17 teeth on the pinion drive.

as for the re-assembly clean the magnet. and put silicone on the cassete fase and bolt it together. and just basiclly give it all a good clean. and refit diff and sump etc.

bruce

[Ste_Nova]

both magnets

[ALLNOVA]

try fitting the final ratio from an F10CR(1.3 and 1.4SR), it has the shortest ratio of all. 8)

[Stuart]

^^ please (to entertain an ill man) explain why fitting an FD from a close ratio gearbox is the best idea?




check that all the brass baulk rings are in good order, and that all the synchros are undamaged. you may wish to change the diff bearings and the end cassette bearings, but thats a moderate ammount of work.

other than that, just make sure its clear of crap, reseal and away you go.

dont forget the spacer shim that goes on the reverse spindle

oh and where is the "2nd" magnet? ive not found more than one in all the boexs ive taken appart

[ollster]

cheers or the advice people, im going to stick with 3.94 to start with and may change to 4.17 when i put an lsd in at a later date. Unfortuantly had a seized bolt which snapped in the end casing so i am going to have to helicoil that before i can put it back together, but apart from that is there any particualr wasy the the selector turret need to go back on or do i just bolt it on

[Stuart]

the turret has 2 locater pins and should only go on one way ;-)

then you just reset the linkage as per the haynes manual.

[Ben]

I was told the other week that technically the F13 does fit onto the 16 16v but you need to drill and tap 2 more bolts n as thy dont line up correctly and you can only get 1/3rd f the bolts through correctly, so micght pay to use a F15 casing and just fit the F13 internals.

[ollster]

as far as i know it should fit fine mate, that is the reason that i am not using my f10 box, as the 200 mm clutch assy and starter wont fit as the bellhousing does not have the recess for the starter motor. I know a few people who have run f13's on 1600 16v's withut problems but im worried now you have said that lol

[Ben]

Yeah i had a F13 on mine and will has on his but someone pointed this out the other day and it kind of made sense when we lined it all up.

[BigRuss]

There is a big difference between the internals of an F13 and an F15 box :o Physically F13 internals will fit in an F15 casing but not the other way around.

The end of the lay shaft in an F15 box is 1.0mm bigger in diameter than said above F13 internals will fit but aren't located in the bearing at all!!

I know a few people using F13's on 1400 + 1600 16v engines, I'm 99% sure a friend of mine is running an F10 casing on his 1400 16v too.

[Stuart]

an f15 is of the same design as the f16 and f20. ie itas a ballache to change the fd

[benji]

as we found out on sunday.

i have a 4.18cwp in my garage, make me a offer

[ALLNOVA]

the final drive from an F10 will give the best acceleration!

[Stuart]

be specific which FD will be best?

there are 2 possibly 4 FD's that an F10 could have had :wink:

[robb]

the final drive from an F10 will give the best acceleration!

And it makes a hell of a difference to my 1.2!

please explain yourself when posting random comments

[ollster]

ok so is the bellhousing on the f13 a different bolt pattern to the f15?

[Stuart]

benji and i didnt look too closely but the F15 bolted to the 1.4 block of his perfectly.

only thing is you lose the clutch access pannel so its a box off job to change the clutch :s (and the FD change is a ballache)

[ollster]

first of cheers for the advice eveyone.

yeh i understand about the lack off cluctch assy access plate as my cally se5 is like this, and i am happy to use the f13 i just want to make sure it will bolt to the block correctly. i dont see why vaux would change the pattern on small block box's i thought he bottom ends stayed basically the same to keep production costs down. Also will i be able to change the clutch with the gearbox in situe with the f13 box, as i have been led to belive that the 200mm clutch assy will not fit through the access plate?

[Gunzi]

try fitting the final ratio from an F10CR(1.3 and 1.4SR), it has the shortest ratio of all. 8)

What do you have to do to fit this? I have changed a fuct gearbox for a non-fuct one but never looked at the internals.

gunzi

[Stuart]

i did a "guide" on how to do a FD change, it might be in the FAQ section, otherwise youve got to hunt it down lol


if i get some time on saturday/sunday i might do a guide with pics.


http://www.novaload.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=86511

thats the rough one

[Gunzi]

Yeah man that'd be good!

[Ben]

Wills AP racing clutch wasnt compatible with the F13 box we fitted (was origanlly a F15 one)

[ollster]

what clutch would people recomend with my f13 box, its the 200mm one that i am after, can i retain my original cover and just have a different friction plate ie a paddle type?

[dhdev (Oli)]

i'm running a 1.6 16v with, f13 box from a nova gte. i'm using a lightened+balanced nova gte flywheel with a maxtorq cover plate and helix friction plate. the box fits the block fine although 1 (maybe 2) bolts aren't used cos they don't line up. hope this helps.
ps i originally used the f13 box with corsa flywheel and standard corsa clutch.

[ALLNOVA]

you need to use a 4.18:1 final drive, i had an H plate 1.4SR and it had this ratio. i don know loads about gearboxes so cant help much more :oops: