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View Full Version : Camber HELP NEEDED



novaboysri
09-11-04, 11:33 AM
A bit of help needed ive got an Sri 60 mm drop on 15's ive made the holes where the strut sits about 2mm wider out wards, it seems to have helped abit, just wondering how much bigger i hav gota make the hole? i intend to get a washer welded in place wen ive sorted it! Any Help Needed! cheers!

m.d.
10-11-04, 07:28 PM
7mm mate

-Bruce-
10-11-04, 08:57 PM
as m.d says 7mm -8mm

bruce

m.d.
10-11-04, 10:29 PM
mine has 1 deg of camber with this ammount done with a 60 - 80 mm drop

DrivingSpanner
11-11-04, 08:52 AM
is that 1 degree of positive ir negative camber,
i'm guessing that you are talking about enlarging the holes at the bottom of the front dampers!?!?

Stuart
11-11-04, 09:06 AM
no, they are on about redrilling the top two bolt holes on the turret.

its a tradtional NL (well ok Ste) mod lol. but i refuse to do this and will be investigating golk camber bolts as a cheap option

DrivingSpanner
11-11-04, 01:32 PM
ahh i c what you mean now... go and buy a ecentric top mount mych better than drilling holes willy nilly and making it all weak

benji
11-11-04, 04:48 PM
they only fit if you have ecoilovers

Stuart
11-11-04, 05:18 PM
you can fit the top mounts with non "coilover" sus,, but you ahve to be a bit cunning about how you use the left over parts of the original top mounts

Ste_Nova
11-11-04, 05:39 PM
no, they are on about redrilling the top two bolt holes on the turret.

its a tradtional NL (well ok Ste) mod lol. but i refuse to do this and will be investigating golk camber bolts as a cheap option

i'm fixing the fault not... not drilling... the fault is with the lower arms... they need to be made shorter

DrivingSpanner
11-11-04, 05:44 PM
is that 1 degree of positive ir negative camber,
i'm guessing that you are talking about enlarging the holes at the bottom of the front dampers!?!?


Like i said before are we talking about positive or negative camber???

-Bruce-
11-11-04, 05:54 PM
were are talking about negitve camber here mate. probably looking at 1.5 degree neg camber.

as when you lower a nova it gives you too much negitive camber so there are different ways to bring it back to about -1.5

bruce

m.d.
11-11-04, 06:16 PM
people get all worried about re drilling the top mounts for no reason whatsoever, there is so much strength thare anyway that making the whole longer wont have any effect on strength, and seing as tho its doing the same job as eccentric top mounts but for free then i dont see why everyone does not do it, fit a strut brace and you have even more strength there, id be more worried about rust under the car or wheel braings than a little whole :?

nova_rally
11-11-04, 06:27 PM
Agreed with MD, if youre that worried about your holes being weak then weld a washer in whilst your at it! 8)

Ste, won't shoretning the TCS mean having to shorten the driveshafts accordingly?

Stuart
11-11-04, 06:33 PM
not if he shortens them by naff all lol


you could rose joint it all to have it completely adjustable lol

m.d.
11-11-04, 06:34 PM
you could rose joint it all to have it completely adjustable lol

thats what i want to do eventually

DrivingSpanner
11-11-04, 06:40 PM
i didnt mean that drilling an extra hole will make it all fall apart what i ment was it will effect the instalation stiffness and change how everything will flex, but two holes wont make any real difference...

as for shortening the TCA the amount that it would need to be shortened by wont effect the drive shaft length because there is enough in the cv joint for it not to be a problem, the best way to change the camber would be to have a rod end at the end of the TCA, that way you wont screw up some of the other geomatory, ie castor, bumpsteer and camber change in bump, or with the stuff that i am working on, with some help ppl that know nova's (you know who you are) (using some of his measurements) you will be able to adjust all except the bumpsteer which would require a new upright, or moving the steering rack

Stuart
11-11-04, 06:43 PM
well you can adjust some of the racks issues bu fitting the joints underneath where they fit at the mo, but you need to redrill the hub lol

DrivingSpanner
11-11-04, 06:50 PM
yeah that might work, need to get thae paper, pen, graph paper, draw/measure where all the pickups are and get calculating!!! why drill the hub??? thats spinning so you arnt going to fit the trackrod to that!!!

anyway i'm glad some1 understands what i am talking about!

Stuart
11-11-04, 06:51 PM
umm ok hub technically being the knuckle :p

id se mitchel software as im too lazy to draw it

DrivingSpanner
11-11-04, 06:53 PM
umm ok hub technically being the knuckle :p

id se mitchel software as im too lazy to draw it

michel software being a 3d geomatory wizard right?

Ste_Nova
11-11-04, 10:26 PM
you could rose joint it all to have it completely adjustable lol

yup :wink:

and get the lower arm and tca parallel...