1.4 16v on carbs

[benji]

if i was to get a 1400 16v and run it on carbs what dizzy would i need to use? i don't know much about the 16v engines so i don't know what fit's. anyone done this?

cheers

ben

[Snowface]

i don't know much about 16v's, but would all you need to do is swap to a 1.4 16v head? i.e. keep your bottom end/gearbox.

would be an easier swap than taking whole engine out.

[m.d.]

cant do that due to piston cut outs for valve clearence etc, and the cam belt pullys are on the block for a 16v i think

[j1400]

The 16V engine doesn't have a dizzy set up, so you need to use mappable managment with it, although I have seen a few where the head is "modified" to take a dizzy, but you might aswell do it properly, and run a coil pack set up.
You can not just swap the heads over, as the pistons design is completely different. the SR pistons are a bowl shape and the 16v ones are convex in shape, they only have valve cut out on the inlet side. Although while you have them out it's worth while have 2mm pockets cut in to the valve cut outs, then you can run 285deg 11mm lift cams
You can keep you block though, but you'd need to swap in the pistons, and the rods too, as they are much much stronger than the 8v style.
then you use the tensor set up from the 16v, the rollers are on the head and the tensioner sits in the same place on the oil pump.
The the oil breather would need swapping over from teh 16v set up and the coolant pipe from the water pump round the back of the engine, it sticks out the side more due to the head.
To connect the coolant hose at the thrmostat end you need a Corsa type S-bend coolant hose.
With a flowed head 285's and carbs you'd be looking at a healthy 150-155BHP out of that.
Happy hunting.
Any more questions just ask.
:)

[benji]

swapping a engine isn't a problem. i just want to know how easy it would be to get the ignition sorted

[j1400]

I've seen some pics of a 16v head and it had a dizzy on the inlet cam side, but it looked very messy. Otherwise you could connect it directly to the cam pulley side of the engin eusing a bracket and duck tape ;)

But otherwise MBE, DTA, emerald, should find a cheap one on e-bay, doesn't need ot be flash at all.

Good luck, I wanted to carb mine, but went TB in the end. :oops:

[benji]

cheers for all the info mate. a engine has come up cheap so i wanted to slap on my carbs and dizzy and get another 10/20 bhp.

you said the bottom end is stronger, would i be able to use it with my current top end? at the moment i have a 14nv bottom end with a c14se head

cheers

ben

[j1400]

Hi Ben it's not the bottom end that is stronger just the rod design, (although the casting of the block is different too) The pistons would give a really high CR as they sit a few mmm above the deck of the block at TDC. If you're willing to muck about, then like I said rig up the dizzy on to the cam pulley. motorsportdirect (or what ever they are called now) has had a carb manifold for sale on there for yonks for the 16v head.
I'd say go for it, they are brilliant little engine, can't recommend them enough. But you do need a tubular manfold to get the best out of them.
They love to be rev'd, power seems endless. :D

[benji]

i can get the engine box loom ecu and driveshafts for ?100. i'll probably buy it anyway even if i'm not going to fit it

[Aragorn]

if u look at SBD's figures for their 1600 the carbs are producing 140bhp and the throttle bodies 165bhp

now we wont discuss the accurance of these figures - more the difference between them - 25bhp is a lot and when i spoke to sbd regarding this they claimed it was to do with the venturis/chokes fitted to the carbs which effectively reduces the inlet tract size from 40mm to say 34mm

i guess u'd get similar occuring on the 1400 engine too

might be worth looking at megajolt if your determined on carbs - bloke on migweb called Rob@RSC is selling it and it uses ford dispak and a very cheap mappable ECU, costs about 150-200 for the full conversion kit for the vaux engines

the full fuel and spark version is not much dearer either and that coupled with proper throttlebodies would give a better drive i recon

thats what im plannin for mine anyways

[j1400]

I think we all know thart SBD bump up the results of their taper bodies. I would be fair to say that you would get a dorp in perf on carbs, but no that significant at all. Plus the money you'd save would allow luimpy cams in there.
TB's are better in completeness but carbs are much much cheaper.

[Ben]

CP used a 1.4 16v head on a 1.4 bottom end, think he suffers with the crank sensor though.

[j1400]

That's just the block. For the crank sensor you use the oil pump with the sensor on, ie= from the C16SE's, X14XE's etc... then ifts no problem.

The rods and pistons on CP's are 1.4 16V items I believe.

[MC]

The diff between carbs and TB's is as stated by SBD. If you compared the two setups you'd find the carbs are down on power but have a shed load more low down torque. As they sauy its down to the choke size. If you open up the choke you'll get more bhp but a flatter mid range. You can manage without low end torque if you are a good driver and have the right gear ratio's.

CP did use the pistons etc from a 16V in an 8v block, but for no reason other than to keep a Nova block in case he ever sprinted the car. It is far simpler to just use a complete engine. Strength isn't really an issue as all of the rod designs have inherant weaknesses and need the same prep to sustain any real abuse.

As far as the ignition goes, yes you could run DTA with carbs, but you'll have much more fun playing with the mapping if you spend the extra and get TB's.

MC

[j1400]

Hi MC, good read. I was under the impression that out the box the 16v rods are far stronger because of how they are made (cracked end) I was also told by a few places that it's better to not de-seam the rods and leave the std nasty finish to them, and they can sustain 8250 cont rpm.
Not that the pistons will let you go that high