View Full Version : ADES GARAGE V2! **now with pics! **
The red stuff should be zinc based etch primer. It gives a good base to begin prepping as it stops any reaction from impurities generated by the weld.
anymore updates?
not read one for a while
sorry guys - been busy doing other stuff (like visiting the wife in Elgin, fixing the horse box and working lates!). Plus the weathers been absolutely sh1te.
Monday 25/10/2006 - Thursday 28/10/2006
Started to remove all the extra bits from the engine bay so I could clean it up, de-rust it and spray it with an anti rust treatment.
Started by removing the remaining components on my suspension - took off the main hub, lower control arm, tie bar and then the strut/shock.
Havent been able to dismantle the strut yet as I cant find a decent enough drop neck spanner to fit into the feckin top!
However have worked on derusting and painting up the rest of the suspension components. Some of them were in a sorry state however after several hours with a wire headed drill and some elbow greese theyve all come up trumps. Treated each section with krust after removing all the loose stuff then painted with a no rust metal paint. Several coats later and they look the business.
Current parts painted incluid the hubs, tie bars, lower control arm, replacement components for my shocks (the strut tops).
Alsdo started cleaning up the inner arch and inside the strut top turrets. Mostly dirt but one or two spots of rust. Wire drill bit worked wonders here!
Thursday I started to dismantle my brake servo/master cylinder. I actually have a the GSi replacement servo and master cylinder to give the brakes (Astra ATE ones) the necessary oomph! Prob was though the lower nuts that secure the 2 front brake lines were absolutely seized shut and I couldnt get them off so I had to hacksaw the feckers off.
Not happy about that one bit because I now need to get 2 replacement front brake lines. Not a major problem at the moment but will need to sort out soon.
Also took out the washer motor and fan unit and housings. That just leaves miles of loom and the steering rack - which I also have a replacement one of (mines a tad loose apparantly!).
SO - once all that's out I'll then start stripping down the bay ready for re seam sealing and spraying.
I have some pics - will post later...
Ade
Next tack is to remove the remaining
Sunday 01/10/2006
As promised, heres some pics of the suspension reconditioning...(Monday to Thursday last week)
I started off by dismantling my suspension - removed the whole lot.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0019.jpg
Started buy cleaning up the front hubs - they were shocking and had what was left of the dust guards on them. These soon got removed. I degreased each one.
I then sanded then down using a drill with a wire brush adapter -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0018.jpg
These were subsequently treated with krust rust inhinitor and after curing for 24 hrs painted with a No Rust paint - 3 coats should to the trick for a while -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0025.jpg
I repeated the process with my tie bars -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0028.jpg
I also did the lower tracking arms - however before I did them I cut out the old rubber bushes. These will be replaced with poly ones. Absolute feckers to get out - 1st thing I did was cut off the ends -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0021.jpg
Then drill out the remaining section leaving nice clean arms -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0024-1.jpg
Once these were hoisted up and left to dry I started on the strut tops -
My current G-Max 60mm suspension has only done about 3000miles if that but its absolutely black with muck. So 1st task was to clean it and dismantle it -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0007.jpg
I knew the strut tops on my current suspension had gone and needed replacing (the rubber parts had detatched in places from the metal) so I sourced some 2nd hand ones -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0002.jpg
These needed cleaning up - before
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0003-1.jpg
After -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0004-1.jpg
cotinued...
all the strut top sections were treated (except the 2 aluminium cone sections) with rust inhibitor and then painted -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0005-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0006.jpg
The only bit left to do now is treat and paint my shocks (just the seats and the areas where the bolts go need doing) and thats the suspension done...
:cool:
Sunday 01/10/2006 - operation engine bay clean...
The above bits were done last week - but today I set about the rest of my engine bay. I'd previously removed the brake servo and master cylinder and started by removing the 2 front brake lines. I need new ones of these as I had to cut off the ends to get the feckin servo out!
Not too happy re this however I later discovered the other ends were just as shagged so figure I may as well invest in some new ones...
Once these were removed, I removed the steering rack. This was fairly straight forward however you have to start by disconecting a flexible rubber joint right at the bottom of the steering column. You need to be able to dislocate your fecking spine to do this!
Finally got it out and then stuffed the 2 loom sections back through into the cabin area. I was left with a pretty skanking enging bay and a couple of cables -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0008.jpg
Time to bring out the jet washer. After about 15 minutes the bay was much cleaner (although I was soaked!). dried off the bay and then sanded down the rusty sections with a drill and wire brush. Heres the result -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0012.jpg
sorted out the battery area too -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0013.jpg
I then spent the next 2 hours scraping off all the loose paint (and red hamerite Id painted on years ago), sanding down with 120 grit to roughen up the whole bay and arches and then applied rust inhibitor to the metal exposed areas.
It then started to rain so I called it a day.
Pretty chuffed based on what Ive done so far. the next task is to seam seal all the old failed seams, spray paint the whole bay and arches with satin black no rust metal paint. I may actually leave it satin black as looking at the way the suspension sections have some out it looks pretty cool. I'll also be painting the light housings at the same time.
Welsh Dan
01-10-06, 09:38 PM
Looking good ade. In another thread apparently goodridge now do coloured braided brake lines :thumb:.
macc nova
02-10-06, 10:29 PM
another good days work ade
looks very good again!
is that rust inhibitor (sp) a spray on product? think i could do with some of it, where did you find it from?
the red oxide is painted on although I'm sure you can get it in a can. The welder painted it on when I had the welding done although I picked up a small can in B&Q for ?3.
you can only use it on ferrous metalss (not aluminium/galvanizes etc) - need special metals primer for these
done a bit more over the last few days -
Saturday 07/10/2006
Went to my local Vauxhall dealer (where Nova Freak works - v handy!) and got a set of new front brake lines made up for next to nowt!
Stripped down and repainted the rest of my brake system including the master cylinder (big black disk thing) and my caliper sliders - nice and shiney and black now - really look the part!
Sunday 08/10/2006 - Tuesday 10/10/2006
Operation VW boot release!
As you may know I'm planning on installing a Golf MK5 boot release system in to my replacement Nova hatch. The Golf MK5 release system in concealed in the actual badge and lifts up with a very smooth sexy action. the mechanism is a simple micro switch and simply releases the solenoid when lifted. I need to work out the electrics re this linking it into my central locking at some point but thats much later down the line (and where the leccy boys on NL come in - he he!)
My task over the last few days was to work out how to fit the actual release mechanism (the badge) into my smoothed boot.
I'd already made the basic smoothed panel and it was treated and left ready for skimming with filler to make it nice and smooth.
For those that have seen a mk5 Golf, the badge sits a little proud of the surface of the boot and has a raised circle round it which is blended back into the bood surface. I need to try and replicate this in some way.
The 1st task was to cut the hole - the diameter ofthe badge to the outer support was 123mm - I drilled out a circle and spent most of Sunday filing it round. It didnt need to be 100% because the hole would be covered with a resin insert to secure the mechanism later on. The main thing to check for was that the badge itself fitted and protruded through the boot.
The next step was to make a support. I started by making a resin base which would sit on the inside of the boot around the hole. This would be the anchor point for the mechanism and will be secured by a suitable bonding material (probably sikaflex because its very strong).
The next step was to make a casing for the badge housing. This needed to be accurate because the mechanism itsel has a rubber ring which stops water getting into the boot insides. Therefore I had to ensure the resin housing was a snug fit and suitably sturdy. The best way to do this was to cover the entire mechanism in masking take and cover the whole thing in resin and fibreglass. There is the final result (after trimming and sanding)-
an inside view
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0016.jpg
from the outside
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0015-1.jpg
the mechanism in its housing
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0017.jpg
The outside didnt need to be pretty because you wouldnt see it - the main part was the inside - the circular housing section needed to be smooth. Ther are one or 2 air bubbles on the rim however these will be smoothed with filler prior to painting.
The next step was to join the base that would attach to the boot to the housing ensuring the badge was lined up correctly - both in the way it sat (it opens by pressing the top and lifting up so it needed to be level or it would look v stupid!) and in the amount it stuck out proud (it needed to be an equal distance all round).
Once set, chopped fibre matting (fibrol) was applied to the housing and it was then stuck to the base (which was secured in place by double sided tape as a temporary fix).
Heres the result just after bonding the 2 parts -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0031.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0029.jpg
and with the mechanism in situ -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0032-1.jpg
You can see from this pic how it protrudes - the idea now is to lay over a fibreglass matt up to the hole and bond it from the outside making s water tight seal then skim and smooth with filler - applying if necessary the raised edge that runs round the badge.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0033-1.jpg
This pic shows the badge in relation to the rest of the boot -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0024-2.jpg
Obviously I will be replacing the VW badge (whish is actually just held on by 2 small clips and some double sided tap!) with either a Vauxhall or Opel badge (probably the latter).
:thumb:
Tasks tomorrow (my day off) - providing the rain holds off - to seam seal my engine bay so I can plan the respray of the bay itself.
Matt2107
11-10-06, 11:20 AM
All good stuff ade.
Fibrol rocks!
macc nova
11-10-06, 12:02 PM
another great days work ade. i wish the rain would hold off here so i could get on with some work.:thumb:
Nova_Houch7
11-10-06, 06:21 PM
Nice to see its still comin on nicely!
L
looking good, liking the idea of the boot release.
really trick idea with the VW realise ade
supernova1992
11-10-06, 09:52 PM
lol iv just spent an hour and a half reading all of this - its really coming along ade! keep up the good work mate :)
cheers!
Tuesday 11/10/2006
Another day off - weather absolutely sh1te (so unable to get my engine bay seam sealed) however did a bit more work on the boot.
I cleaned up the inside of the housing for the boot mechanism - smoothing it and making it tighter to the actual badge section. I then sealed the rim of the hole using sikaflex and rivets and bondedthe resin constructed housing to the boot from the inside.
I'll post some pics of it done tomrrow once its cured.
Next task is to clean up the excess bonding material and then smooth the outer section making it a smoothed boot.
Once smooth I'll consider adding a grab handle type detail - not like the original one though but similar to the new grille badges on the latest models (minus the badge - see below). Where the V section is is where the boot badge will be...
I'm also looking at getting one of these for the front (although they currently retail at ?80 from vauxhall)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/1a_1.jpg
Prefer it with an opel badge though...
Nova_Houch7
12-10-06, 05:56 PM
Be interesting to see what that will look like on the front of a nova, hmmmmmmmm
L
Thursday 12/10/2006
Started off this evening by fitting the new poly bushes into my suspension.
See earlier in the thread for how to remove the old bushes.
I'd painted up my track arms a few weeks ago with no rust satin black paint - several coats and its now fully cured.
Heres the bushes I'm using from Polyflex - nice and orange!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/susp7.jpg
They come in 2 halves for easy fitting
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/susp6.jpg
Theyre easy to fit - simply spray a litle wd40 or similar lubricating oil onto them to help get them in. Stick one half into the hole and push all the way in -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/susp5.jpg
Then part insert the other one and part insert the metal rod. Then using a G clamp and 2 bits of wood so as not to damage said bushes, clamp up the other side fully to get a nice tight fit -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/susp4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/susp3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/susp2.jpg
et voila -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/susp1.jpg
Takes about 5 minutes.
Also painted up mt Gmax strust - the spring seats were a tad rusty - just surface though so I degreased them and gave a coat of no rust -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/susp8.jpg
So with the exception of my new Astra ATE brake calipers and discs the whole inner arch will be nice and black - with anthracite alloys should look pretty cool.
:cool:
Thursday 12/10/2006 - pt2
With my suspension pretty much sorted, I continued work on my boot project.
Heres some pics of the boot with the new housing sikaflexed in place -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0004-2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0018-1.jpg
Sikaflex is a marine adhesive - incredibly tough and best of all water resistant so makes a perfect bolnding material.
The next task was to fill the edges with filler. Before doing this I cleaned off the excess sikaflex from the edges and degreased with panel wipe to ensure a strong bond. I then re-insterted the badge after applying 3 layers of masking tape round the edge so I could take the filler right up to the edge.
This image shows the filler after a light sanding -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0019-1.jpg
The next task was to layer up some resin and fibreglass to cover the metal insert. I started by making the lower section of the boot totally horizontal. Resin like water will sit flat if on a level surface. I measuring up a fibreglass insert -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0020.jpg
and to ensure this would be thoroughly soaked, I split the sheet into 3 sections (fibreglass is layered - split it up and you get 3 thinneer sheets). This will ensure a tight air free bond.
I started by applying a layer of resin right up and over the edges. I then added the 2st layer and srtippled it in place. This was followed up by more resin and another sheet and so on up to the 3rd. I then applied the rest of the resin and stippled away until all 3 sheets had been absorbed.
The final boot lid was then left to settle and set -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0023.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0025-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0026.jpg
This is the 1st stage. Tere will obviously be ripples and divets in the surface and it will need a skim of filler and then sealing. The boot will cure over the weekend (I'm going away for a few days) and when I return I will sand back to a level surface (its slightly higher in some places), skim it and see what it looks like from there.
I then need to rebuild the small area cut away from the inside, backfill the entire thing with expanding foam to prevent water ingress and secure the boot mechanism.
Looks really good though
Matt2107
13-10-06, 11:18 AM
Nice ade.
Its good to see your thinking outside the box with this one.
I wish I'd fitted poly bushes when I did my suspension.
wisewood
13-10-06, 11:43 AM
Excellent job Ade. It's the first time i've had a look at how this is going for several months.
I can't believe the amount of work you're putting into it, the wife must be breathing fire at you by now, not to mention the neighbours!
The ingenuity you've displayed with sheets of cardboard to create templates for pretty much everything on the car that needs to be custom made, from scratch is amazing. The headlight mounts, combined with the radiator mounting in particular i thing is an amazing job.
I'm holding back judgement on the smoothed tailgate until its finished, still lots of room for it all to horribly wrong yet :D
PS. I wont say keep up the good work, because... well, why would you suddenly start doing a shoddy job of it? lol
PPS. Bring back the expletives monitor to each report that was included in Ade's garage version 1. Don't try telling me you're doing all this without swearing, i don't believe you.
NOV4_SPORT
13-10-06, 10:31 PM
well ****ing done mate, this is looking mental, cant wait to see it in the flesh some time. keep us posted on further development, as iam sure you will matey.
c'2.0lrt
15-10-06, 09:25 PM
wow jus gone through this thread and your a god mate with some top vision the lights are a real nice touch and then the boot jus tops it off,top work mate keep us posted.
chers guys will do!
Andy - lol re the swear section of the original ades garage. Found the wife very accomodating - seeing as how shes currently 200 miles up north in Elgin during the week! Means I can come in and just get on with it.
The neighbours are excellent too! Always popping in and seeing how its going - went away this weekend and for some unknown reason left my garage door wide open, lights on with all the tools out on display! Realised what I'd done on the motorway 1/2 way up to see the wife and couldnt do owt about it.
Got to wifes at about 10.30pm, told wife - she tutted (as they do) called her sister to see if she could help who just happened to have our next door neighbours telephone number who wass called and advised us that she'd seen me drive off and when she took dogs for a walk noticed garage open and went round and closed it all for us!
Will defo have to buy her a bottle of something!
:D
what a nice neighbour!
boots starting to take shape now, you figurd out how to wire it up yet? going to use the standard locking mech from the VW or create your own>
not too sure. I'll use a universal solenoid obviously but need to wire in some kind of relay so that you cant just walk up and open it.
Hoping to get an alarm with a remote boot release...
Anyone else got any suggestions?
Monday 16/10/2006
Not been too well today - woke up and was completely deaf in my left ear and my balance was all over the shop! Felt like I was p1ssed!
Went to the docs and He gave me some drops for ears and some sea sick tablets! An hour later I felt well enough to take the day in the garage. I just shoved some ear plugs in my head all day so the drops wouldnt fall out!
Started off by sealing up the engine bay and light housings with seam sealer. I used Greystripe brushable seam sealer - used it before and its very good -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/enginea5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/enginea4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/enginea1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/enginea3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/enginea2.jpg
Whilst this was curing I did a bit more on my boot - the resin had cured fully and it was very tough. I needed to sand it down though as it was too high. This too absolutely ages! Once down, I skimmed with a layer of filler to try and level if off (there were some low points) -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/boota1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/boota2.jpg
Whilst this cured, I started to paint my engine bay and under my wheel arches. I'm giving it a few coats of black no rust paint. I'm not too fussed about the finish at this stage as long as it looks relatively smooth - most of it's going to be hidden beneath the engine anyway. The type of paint I;m using is actually really good at self levelling anyway. The main focus is to try and reduce future rust problems for as long as possible.
I've applied the 1st coat but it needs at least one more (you can still see some of the original paint in places). I also need to treat the new light housings to a few coats of special metals primer too - galvanised steel needs primed 1st.
Once this cures fully I'll lightly smooth the visible areas and spray over it with some standard primer.
Once I'd finished painting my engine bay and surrounding bits, I sanded back the 1st layer of filler on the boot and then repeated the process.
Heres the 2nd payer curing -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/boota3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/boota4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/boota5.jpg
this is already looking much smoother and the hole where the lock will go really adds a great big detail to the back end! I was never keen on smoothed boots - too much metal but breaking it up slightly should really make a big difference. Theres still a fair way to go - perhaps another layer or two before its ready for a light prime and then further rub downs...
Plans for Tuesday (its my day off conveniently!) -
- pick up my front hubs from local engineering firm after they've had new front bearings fitted as well as steering rack which theyre slackening tie rod mounts off of so I can fit new ones.
- paint another layer of paint on the engine bay/arches.
- paint light housings with special metals primer
- fit new CV boot to drive shaft
- continue smoothing boot
- look at applying rocker shutz sound deadening material to the arches...
How about using an immobiliser working on a bullet system in the boot, so that when your opening the boot with the key in your pocket it flips the relay and then alows the solenoid to activate?
I may be missing what your getting at though.
Good work matey, keep it up.
How about using an immobiliser working on a bullet system in the boot, so that when your opening the boot with the key in your pocket it flips the relay and then alows the solenoid to activate?
I may be missing what your getting at though.
Good work matey, keep it up.
not sure if this makes a difference but the VW boot lock doesnt have a key - you simply lift up the badge and it pops the solenoid.
What I need is a system where when I press my fob to open all the doors (unlock the car) - it opens the boot too and when I lock the car the boot remains locked when the handle is lifted (something to disconnect the power to the micro switch).
:thumb:
Welsh Dan
17-10-06, 07:52 AM
A latching relay?
doherty
17-10-06, 01:32 PM
this car keeps gettin more an more trick touches!!! ade hats off for the boot..nice to see a bit of original thinkin... keep up the great work!!
wisewood
17-10-06, 02:46 PM
why not just go the whole way and mod the vw badge to incorporate a finger-print recognition to only allow you access to the boot ;) sounds crazy, but you know you want to :D
Matt2107
17-10-06, 03:52 PM
If the co-op can have finger print recognition to buy stuff then you should have it for your car.
novacomewithexcitement
17-10-06, 03:58 PM
why not just go the whole way and mod the vw badge to incorporate a finger-print recognition to only allow you access to the boot ;) sounds crazy, but you know you want to :D
......and if novas were made by volkswagen lol :P
wisewood
17-10-06, 04:12 PM
errrr, yes... he's using a VW boot mechanism. did you read the thread? lol
c'2.0lrt
17-10-06, 05:40 PM
ade you said bout putting opel or griffin badge in place of vw why not design your own? as the car is going to all your ideas and work?any picks of ya bay?
if you fit a cat1 alarm you will be able to use one of the optionals on there to activate your boot lock. look how zafiras are wired up if you can.
not sure if this makes a difference but the VW boot lock doesnt have a key - you simply lift up the badge and it pops the solenoid.
What I need is a system where when I press my fob to open all the doors (unlock the car) - it opens the boot too and when I lock the car the boot remains locked when the handle is lifted (something to disconnect the power to the micro switch).
:thumb:
I wasn't thinking for the use of the key to unlock it, just having a chip and transponder set up attached the boot and to the key in order to close the relay when you get near the boot.
bump - that sounds pretty cool - any idea how/where I go about getting one?
Id prefer to have all locks on one fob mind - however this part of the project is still some way off...
Tuesday 17/10/2006
My day off today although my ear ache is getting worse! Got my balance back but the drops I'm sticking in my ear is making the glaggy wax move about. Doc cant get it out and says drops need another day to work.
Suits me - another day off work - however need to keep an ear plug in my left ear which is v weird!
So - armed with one gammy ear, I headed back to the garage. Weather a little overcast but not raining - yet - so decide to start by applying another coat of paint to the engine bay. This takes a couple of hours and I give it a thorough covering using a stippling motion to ensure it settles flat. Once done I then paint the light housings with special metals primer.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/engbay005.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/engbay009.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/engbay007.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/engbay004.jpg
The black area has come out really well - I just need to do the battery area however need to treat the drainage holes before I can do this so will leave till another day. The special metals paint takes about an hour to go off and can be repainted over after 4 hours - leaving me plenty of time to get on with other stuff - such as my boot.
I gave it another couple of coats of filler sanding down in between coats and after a few hours hard sanding, its starting to level off. This pic shows the badg mechanism in place - its very tight but thats okay as it can be sanded back later -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bootb011.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bootb013.jpg
After a really good sanding back and smoothing with finer paper, I applied the 1st coat of primer to get a better idea of how it looked -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bootb011.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bootb015.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bootb016.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bootb023.jpg
This looked really good and seemed to be very level however if you run the flat of your hand over it (using a jay cloth between palm and surface), you can been rises and falls in the filler - not many but enough to warrant further work.
Once the primer has cured (overnight), I'll coat the whole area in a fine "speckle coat" of black paint (like an over spray of paint leaving a fine dotted finish on the area) and then sand this back using a large flat piece of wood with wet n dry on it. The low areas will not be removed and the specks will remain showing me where I need to build up the filler.
Tuesday 17/10/2006 - continued
Whilst the primer was curing, I got on with trying to replace one of the inner cv boots on my replxacement GTE drive shafts.
I had a replacement boot and using the haynes manual successfully separated the cv joint allowing me to slide the old boot off. The boot itself wasnt worn or torn, it had just popped off the fat end and was spewing grease everywhere. I'd actually like to reuse this boot if I can (see post in technical re whether this is possible). Separating is fairly easy - just a c clip holding the 2 in place
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0018-2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/DSCF0019-2.jpg
Anyway - once apart I slipped the new boot on and then had to leave it because I dont have the metal securing rings (theres some in the post from a fellow Novaloader that will hopefully arrive tomorrow).
I then looked out the garage door and noticed it had started raining. That fine misty rain that really annoys you!
Oh - I also got my front knuckles back from the engineering place near me that fitted 2 new front bearings - appranatly when I asked if it went okay they laughed and said if I'd carried on using the car the bearings would have exploded within days! One sides bearings housing had melted in parts apparantly. Also got them to clean up and slacken off the track rod ends so i can replace with new ones. All in they charged me ?35 which I thought was a good deal.
Plan for tomorrow -
Weather is supposed to be crap all day so I'll do some more work on the boot, sort the cv boot if the straps arrive in the post and perhaps tidy up the garage.
Also need to go to the docs to get my ear sorted - hopefully!
:confused:
Here (http://www.motor-world.co.uk/outdoor_world/show_prod.php?prod_id=2444) you are Ade. you just attach one of the bullets to your key ring and put the reciever in your boot lid with the relay, run a pwer feed and your away.
I have my occational uses.
cool! - a bit pricey but would be well classy!
I think that it would be worth the outlay. It would just add a nice touch to such a well thought out boot mechanism.
wisewood
18-10-06, 11:54 AM
Ade, where's the pics?
*edit*
nevermind.
Wednesday 18/10/2006
Anpther day off work - FINALLY got my ear sorted this morning - need to stop operating loud machinery without ear protection - anyway took the rest of the day off - they forecast sh1tey weather but infact it was glorious all day so thought I'd make the most of it...
Started by applying the speckle coat to the boot -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bootc001.jpg
Whilst this dried I painted up the other light housing I couldnt get done yesterday due to the misty rain and then started work on making some inner mud guards for the front wings.
The idea is that behind the nova front wings is nothing except inner wing - and this leaves them prone to the elements from the wheels, mud, dirt getting behind the lights etc. So I decided to try and limit the amount of build up by fitting some splash guards. most modern cars have them now (usually great big plastic cowlings that hide all the moving parts).
I started by making a card template - the template can be used on both sides - I just need to reverse it. The splach guards will be rivetted to the underside of the inner wings and joined to the new inner guards at the back of the arch I had welded in a while ago. The front of the guard will bend downwards but not all the way - just enough to act as a drainage channel for water etc. At the top I'll then make a replacement guard that usually sits behind the lights on the nova. This will be attached to the front and attached the the inner wing at the front - efffectively making a box.
Heres some pics of both sides -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/wheelmud006.jpg
from underneath (looking up at the strut turret from underneath)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/wheelmud008.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/wheelmud005.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/wheelmud003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/wheelmud002.jpg
Theyre a nice snug fit at the front with about a 10mm gap between the wing and the edge to allow for air circulation, drainage etc.
I've used galvanised steel so theres no problems with rusting and the whole thing is sealed with sikaflex which is used on marine crafts so very water resistant.
Once I'd finished this, I then moved on to the boot (again) - started by sanding down until the flat spots were shown like the one below -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bootc002.jpg
Then skimmed these areas with filler and repeated the process again.
The boot is almost complete in terms of smoothing the rear panel - next task is to tidy up the area where the badge will go.
I then need to smooth the VW part of the badge and fit a Vauxhall badge. I was going to use Opel badges but they dont look right - theyre too small and the bigger ones have problems with the part of the lightening symbol that throws it all off centre.
Stopped for the evening after I realised I'd not eaten anything all day except 2 bacon sarnies in the morning and about 8 cups of decaf coffee (cant drink normal stuff - sends me barmy!)
lol
macc nova
18-10-06, 11:58 PM
what kind of filler is that? the one i used lucks completely different and of lower quality?
wisewood
19-10-06, 09:37 AM
lol - eyes wide shut!
They definately weren't loading the first time :wtf:
Matt2107
19-10-06, 11:32 AM
That is the same filler I use.... cant for the life of me remember what its called lol.
Its in a black tin with a green stripe round it and they sell it in halfords.
Its very easy to use.
Tried David Isopons which is ok but extremely hard to sand.
macc nova
19-10-06, 12:04 PM
yeah i no the stuff, something like wd13 or something like that, cheers
craig green
19-10-06, 12:43 PM
coming along nicely there. good idea on the wheel arch spray guards.
its U-Pol easy sand - very good - is green with standard pink hardner. Its actually pretty robust and very workable.
NOV4_SPORT
20-10-06, 02:26 PM
**** me that boot looks bloody amazing mate, had my doubts before, but now its nearly there, looks so good, well done mate
TommySR
23-10-06, 02:33 PM
coming along nicely ade, boot is good but still aint sure on the front end but ill wait to see the final outcome
NOV4_SPORT
04-11-06, 04:19 PM
has there been any progress on this nova, matey ?
nah - not done much lately. Waether turned really nasty the last couple of weeks, working back shift at work and spending most weekends 300 miles away from home with the missus (whos on secondment way up north for 6 months).
Also - got 5 new models on the go.
The only bits I have done is reassemble the suspension (see mechanical for a small problem) and plan to finish the boot smoothing before putting it all away for winter. Need to get it out of the weather...its not water tight and I dont want rust forming until its properly sealed...
However before I can do that I need to gut my garage.
Thats next weeks plan...
Ade
ACE W.I.P, love threads like these,
ade, 300 miles up north? must be near where i stay, aberdeenshire? i live in buckie, near elgin??
aye - was up in elgin this weekend seeing the missus. Shes working up there on secondment. Was out your way on Sunday "sightseeing"! Went through the lovely town of Buckie - past the Vauxhall Garage and down to the harbour.
Know a few people up that neck of the woods.
Will have to meet up once me cars complete (along with cheeze)!
Awesome Ade! i must have just spent 2hrs? today reading this - I was gutted I had to go to work at 4pm lol
Full credit to you for using all your own ideas and ingenuity!
Keep it comin'!
Liam
looking good bud any more pics?
yeah this thread is certianly coming on Ade, once its finished we have to sort something out for a gander, and once i get my nova/s finished to lol
no more pics just yet. The only thing I've done recently is stick my Astra GTE caliper carriers on and reassembled my suspension so I can get the car back in the garage.
Been working on the models - currently have 5 on the go.
NOV4_SPORT
12-11-06, 12:39 PM
good man, hope you get some pics up soon matey.i would like to come and see it some time, i stay not to far from you budy.
Projectjordan
23-11-06, 11:32 PM
.
.
erm...okay - thanks!
lol
cars now tucked up snuggly in the garage where it will stay over the winter.
Put the steering rack back on and after replacing the track rod ends could I get the feckin wheels to line up? could I sh1te! lol - had a right laugh tyrying to push it back in the garage. Got there eventually though.
Over the winter I'll probably do the bonnet and some of the interior (recover the seats) - got some gorgeous black suede material backed on 4mm foam off ebay the other week - 4mtrs x 140cm wide - really good quality and very hard wearing too. Will recover seats and door cards - perhaps even dash too...
I'll post pics of progress as usual...
Ade
:thumb:
Matt2107
27-11-06, 12:44 PM
got some gorgeous black suede material backed on 4mm foam off ebay the other week - 4mtrs x 140cm wide - really good quality and very hard wearing too.
:thumb:
Any chance of a link matey... I've been looking for something similar.
it was a private sale as I wanted more than he was selling however have sent you his email address via pm!
Projectjordan
30-11-06, 08:15 PM
Originally Posted by Projectjordan
.
erm...okay - thanks!
sorry, just like keeping an eye on this thread and couldnt think of anything to say...
"keep up the good work" that better ;)
lol
Cheers matey
Just though you were lost for words
lol
Area51Nova
12-12-06, 06:34 PM
Hi Ade
Hows the build going. Any updates.
nah - just finished 4 models though - theyre generating cash for the Christmas budget.
heres a few pics
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/ianf5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/ianf3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/ianf1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/ma5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/ma6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/be6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/be1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/jh6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/jh5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/jh1.jpg
My Garage is FUll of car and other stuff so not that much space to work (need a good BRUTAL clearout).
Will probably start recovering the seats over the winter - also want to start my bonnet then work on the bumper.
Weather up heres appauling at the moment - the road into our village was totally cut off with floods the other day!
Well freaky!
Area51Nova
18-12-06, 09:19 PM
Dude them models are awesome!
just been in touch for a price on mine!
so what are they actually made of?
cheers again ade.. im still buzzin from getting it!! lol.. keep up the good work.. an prob get in contact with u in the near future again about another model :D
models are made of resin - the shell is one piece (minus the wheels, exhaust, grill section, bumpers and skirts). i then made indiviual sections (bumpers wheels etc), took molds and then use resin to make the various parts.
Its then a case of clean them up and bond it together (easier said than done!).
you got a long waiting list ade?
now the cars finished..im going to have to have one in the new year..
its pretty long but I find its pretty flexible depending on an individuals finanacials at the time...
would 150 cover it? if i was to set it aside?
just need to get some decent pics lol
novacabrio
19-12-06, 08:57 PM
Who was the silver L reg gsi done for?
matt_mph
21-12-06, 09:32 AM
Amazing work ade. Love the models.
cheers
L reg was done for a guy called Jason.
and yes ?150 would cover it - depending on mods...
Dude did you finish the boot?? have i missed it? lol
shy witness
10-01-07, 09:58 PM
i havent been on this site in ages ......but this is the 1st thread i came 2 once again
siome great work going on with the car mate
and the models are also great aswell.............might possibly look in2 gettiin one myself if i ever get my car built again lol
boot is still ongoing - had to stop as weather closed in and needed to get nova off the drive.
However our "new" neighbours have just moved in - we've known them for 3 days and theyve given us eht keys to their house AND access to an empty double garage for 6 MONTHS!!!
he he....
Matt2107
18-01-07, 10:55 AM
boot is still ongoing - had to stop as weather closed in and needed to get nova off the drive.
However our "new" neighbours have just moved in - we've known them for 3 days and theyve given us eht keys to their house AND access to an empty double garage for 6 MONTHS!!!
he he....
You lucky *******.
James P
23-01-07, 04:54 PM
so how long does it take you to make 1 model? and how much does all the materials cost?
do you make the shape of the nova from wood then put the resin over it?
im amaized how good they look!!!!!!
James - re the models - I made a "master" model and then took a mold using silicone rubber. I'm currently on my 3rd master (I keep making tweeks to it as I go). The master was initially made out of balsa wood (to bulk out) then overlaid with a modeling material called super sculpey, followed up by plastic detailing (windows etc). Ive been doing it as a hobby for a few years - more as a side line to fund my nova rebuiltd addiction (its a monkey I will shift off my back eventually!). It also keeps my hand in with model making - a drgree course I did at uni and want to get back into - eventually...
As well as the main body shell, I also made separate body kits including mk1/2 bumpers, various styles of mirrors, mk1/2 front grills, lots of different alloys, mk1/2 spoilers and some front/rear splitters - molds have been taken of these as well.
The models are made out of casting resin taken from the above molds. I start with the basic shell (the nova body) then add bumpers, front ends (mk1/2) and side skirts as well as any other detailing like mirrors, alloys, wipers etc. Each cast is poured by hand (time consuming).
Each model is sprayed in original vauxhall colour paint. They are then mounted on display stands.
The amount I charge mainly covers the time it takes to make them, materials (resin, paint primer etc) and packaging andnext day delivery. Time is a big factor - I toyed with setting up a small business and getting the parts made professionally but because each one is custom made and unique to that particular model (no 2 cars turn out the same) it worked out too expensive - at the moment I have a full time job, full time wife and other projects (me nova being one) so I only do it as a hobby.
I usually only make a few a year - mainly because of the above commitments and also because I'm lazy! Also it keeps my nova on the road (as well as allowing me to buy more resin).
I'm scared to tot up how much Ive spent on developing the models over the years. Sometimes I wonder if I would be better putting thr dosh onto the nova and have done with it (would be less stressful thats for sure)
lol
moved the nova into next doors garage yesterday!
hurrah!
empty garage to play in!
Matt2107
25-01-07, 12:11 PM
Wahoo what you gonna do in the garage Ade?
there's not that much space in next doors garage as theyve left their old mk1 golf in it however it means I've got my own garage to ar5e about in so the 1st task I'm gonna go is get the wings sorted, then the bonnet - then I can sort out the custom front bumper.
I think I also need a new steering rack - theres a feck load of play in my current one (I can turn my steering wheel 3" to the left/right and the wheels dont even move!)
lol
Ade can you what rims can you make? softstars? cav gsi's?
What do u need of the person ya making the modle for? pics etc?
Martin..
craig green
26-01-07, 04:19 PM
there's not that much space in next doors garage as theyve left their old mk1 golf in it however it means I've got my own garage to ar5e about in so the 1st task I'm gonna go is get the wings sorted, then the bonnet - then I can sort out the custom front bumper.
I think I also need a new steering rack - theres a feck load of play in my current one (I can turn my steering wheel 3" to the left/right and the wheels dont even move!)
lol
That could be the rod ends?
nah - got brand new ones - they havent deen set up properly mind - will need to wap out me haynes manual... the toe settings are WAY out!
Novalicious - I can make most rims for the models - see www.modelnovas.com website for examples (in models)
Nice one ade.. can i send you some pics and place an order?
ahh d/m mate u dont seem to interested.. i'l probs catch u another time..
ahh d/m mate u dont seem to interested.. i'l probs catch u another time..
PM sent - I am intersted - apologies if it came across as though I'm not...
If anyone wants info on the models please PM me or use the modelnovas website link rather than post on this (rebuild) thread
thanks
Ade
:p
just read through your thread Ade, as not looked at it in AGES an feck me your cracking one!! Last time i looked you were just fabricating the light surrounds!!
Top job as always mate! :thumb: look forward to future posts!?
cooper_nova
28-01-07, 05:32 PM
wow ade!!! what can i say???........erm.........immensively(spelling) impressed!!!!.......top job so far fella..i just spent nearly 3hrs reading from where i last finnished!!!!.....will it be at pv??....can't wait to see it in the flesh
I hope so - its currently languishing in next doors garage... Will probably have a crack at it this weekend...
cooper_nova
29-01-07, 09:13 PM
I hope so - its currently languishing in next doors garage... Will probably have a crack at it this weekend...
good lad.....sit waiting with bated breath lol
Saturday 10/02/2007
A few more parts for me project...
Set of near mint doors with window surrounds, glass and central locking - only a small bubble on one of them but thats easily fixable.
Also another bonnet - decided due to the weight of the current one with the extension on it I'm going to take a mold from it once its done and do a full bonnet skin for the extension on my new bonnet. Will be much lighter and easier to do that continue with the one on their at the moment.
The skin will cover the entire top of the new bonnet so there will be no cracking.
Also bought meself a mini PS2 with BUZZ (love that game!) and have just spent the last 2 hours on ebay buying about 20 PS2 games - must have spent about ?40 in total - not bad going...
cooper_nova
10-02-07, 07:47 PM
sounds good keep it up...:thumb:
carls nova sri
01-03-07, 12:09 AM
got any more pics for us ade lovin the project
wisewood
01-03-07, 09:07 AM
Also bought meself a mini PS2 with BUZZ (love that game!) and have just spent the last 2 hours on ebay buying about 20 PS2 games - must have spent about ?40 in total - not bad going...
Awesome game BUZZ! Played it (and the music quiz one) at christmas at my uncles. Much better than interactive dvd games like family fortunes and family fortunes.
Matt2107
01-03-07, 09:36 AM
Also bought meself a mini PS2 with BUZZ (love that game!) and have just spent the last 2 hours on ebay buying about 20 PS2 games - must have spent about ?40 in total - not bad going...
Think I've got a couple of PS2 games laying around if you wanna buy them cheap.
Medal of Honour and I think there's a new and sealed F1 game. ;)
wats your current sate of your models then ade? how far have i gone down your waiting list? lol
matt - just bought both them games!
Now have a total of 25! havent even played half of them yet! The wifes banned me from ebay lol!
RC - model list is still HUGE! I'm hoping to start some more shortly although am currently grinding my teeth on one for Alex Mac - his novas was in TV a few months back. Its got so many subtle mode its driving me crazy!
Ade
will "hopefully" start on the nova this week after work. Have set the wifes expectations that I want as much done on it as I can this year.
Matt2107
05-03-07, 11:36 AM
matt - just bought both them games!
Goddamnit! lol
nov4801
21-03-07, 05:34 PM
hows it going ade
not bad - done nowt on the car - its in next doors garage and theyre having work done on the garden so theres tons of stuff dumped in front of the garage - I cant get in to do anything!
grrr
No bother really - too feckin cold to do much anyway
Matt2107
17-04-07, 11:01 AM
Thats what you get for living in Bonny scotland.
Was 24 degrees at the weekend in Oxford.
Friday 20th April 2007
Finally got a bit more done on the car - well not the car as such - that's still tucked away in next doors garage. lol
But did some more work on my boot project. As you know I'm attempting to build a smoothed boot without the use of a welder. After not working on the boot for some time, it was interesting to come back to it after several months and take a good look at it. As many of you mentioned skimming it and getting it absolutely level was going to be a major problem after I'd filled the hole. And you were right. So rather than add more filler (which will inevitably crack) I decided to remove the filler skim from the surface of the original boot and skin the entire lower section in metal. I left the original metal infill though as this will add strength to the new section (and has the new boot lock carrier attached to it).
To do this I needed a piece of metal long enough - your standard B&Q sheets are about 20cm too short and I didnt want to have to fork out for a bigger bit incase it didnt work - so after searching my garage I hit upon the idea of using the rest of the Punto bonnet skin I'd used for my bonnet extension (another work in progress...). This was not only the right length but was also slightly curved which is a bonus as the novas boot isnt actually flat (theres a slight curve in it which is why some smoothed boots dont look quite right).
Firstly I seperated the top skin from the support structure and measured out the area I needed. I then marked out a hole for the bonnet release (my VW/Vauxhall converted badge locking mechanism) - this had to be in exactly the right spot otherwise it wouldnt sit over the existing hole cut in the boot.
I then cut out the shape using metal cutters and cut the hole out with a jigsaw (deafening myself in the process).
Now - placing an entire metal skin on the Nova's boot could cause some problems - the main one being there will be a lip formed by the new sheet metal from the angled section (above the existing grab handle/wiper hole area). I worked out that if the skin was bonded correctly (using liquid metal or tiger seal) to the surface of the boot and then the edges were folder over in the same way as an original car skin is bonded to the super structure it would be more than rigid enough and as such I could simply skim the angle to match the metal lip with filler.
So thats what I did - and it came out superbly!
The best bit occured when cutting the metal from the old Punto bonnet, I noticed part of the detailing from the bonnet (the angled lines) were half on the area I needed - this added an additional detail to the boot along with the central boot badge I'm making.
Heres 2 pics of it almost complete (skimmed and just needs smoothing) -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/skin2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/skin1.jpg
you can just make out the angled lines. I'mm take these curves down into the bumper...
When cutting the hole for the boot badge I noticed it wasnt perfectly round (almost impossible to do with a jigsaw) so to tidy this area up I made a plastic rim to surround the badge. This was made on a small lathe I bought off ebay for ?20! It's one of those ones you just stick a drill into the end - basic but did the job perfectly.
When added to the edge it really tightens up the detail. This will be fixed in place and smoothed in with the boot.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/skin3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/skin4.jpg
The VW badge will be replaced with a Griffin. :thumb:
That's it for the time being. Need to get Alex Mac's model nova finished (the silver one in TV a few months back) - it's doing my nut in (still!)
lol
NovaLad
20-04-07, 04:12 PM
lol at the badge ... it's coming along really well ..Do you havea deadline lol . ?
rednova
20-04-07, 05:34 PM
which vauxhall griffin are you using ade?
Phil
A big one!
The badge is 110mm diameter!
As for deadline - the wifes given me until I'm 40! although I did say I'd get it done this year - but that was before I booked a couple of holidays, bought a DSLR camera and a hot tub.
lol
Matt2107
20-04-07, 08:28 PM
Nice work Ade.
The punto bonnet ridges look perfect for the detail you were after.
aye - the way theyre angled mean that the detail can be continued onto the bumper...
how have you been getting on with this latley anyway Ade?
well, i started reading at page one @ 11.10pm, and finally got to the end at 12.40, and fcuk me Ade, the work, the time and effort youve put into this so far is immense! Top bombing chap!!
lol cheers!
Aint done much recently - been busy with the models (making Alex Mac's one at the moment) and messing about with my new camera - bought a 200mm zoom lens for it (that was the fibreglass for my custom body kit).
Deadline is still Summer 2008 - new incentive is the big VBOA meet...
a sad day - had to move the nova out of next doors garage and back into my own. theyre coming back in the next day or so and will probably be using the garage fully.
Bummer. The good news is it forced me to clear out my garage - and I found some old tools!
he he
also moving the car back to my garage has refocussed me (along with next years anniversary shows) so I've started making plans again...
need to tackle that bonnet...
Ade
Matt2107
27-06-07, 01:27 PM
Bummer. The good news is it forced me to clear out my garage - and I found some old tools!
Every cloud has a silver lining.
I love the fact that I have 3 million odd sockets in my tool kit.
Whenever i buy a car there always seems to be a few tools under the seats.
novashaw
11-07-07, 01:42 AM
any news ade?
where can i find the first ades garage?
Sunday 09/07/2007
In between casting up some more model Novas (which I spent most of the day making for various people) I thought I'd waste 1/2 the afternoon (seeing as it was raining) on the grill and bonnet of my project.
As you know my bonnet has 1/2 a punto bonnet grafted to the front of it. the plan is to smooth this in and take a fibreglass skin from it so it can be bonded right over a spare bonnet I have. the skin will include the extension which will be rivetted to the underside of the existing bonnet making a tight solid fit. The whole bonnet will then be anchored in place with 2 small solex lock style bonnet pins.
The grill section will then be taken from a new Astra (the current V grill) but cut down to fit between the Punto headlights. The sides between grill and lights will have a grill surround element joined to a custom bumper (see pics on page 3).
I spent most of the Sunday cutting the Astra Grill chrome and black slats down so it would fit snug between the lights. The remaining section fits really snug and will clip in place on the new light structure really well.
No I know the rough position, I can work on the mountings for the grill and then start on making the skin for the bonnet. once these parts are in place I'll have a line for the front bumper...
I'll try and get some pics up tomorrow...
The 1st ades garage was unfortunately deleted when novaload changed over to the new look site back in 2005. I (and several others) were gutted coz it was a good thread and a good laugh. I rebuilt a Nova in 5 weeks - exterior and interior including full cloth retrim and diy garage respray using 2pak paint!
Was reet proud of meself!
any more done on the car mate
this is a excellent thread mate it inspired me to get my ar*e into gear on my nova
not done much recently - been busy making models.
Messed about with the grill to get it to the right side - will try and post some pics thie week.
what a slow summer! Not done hardly anything to the car all summer because the weathers been so bad and my garagfe is so full of stuff I cannae move round it!
however good news!
The neighbours who leant me their garage whilst they were abroad have gone back abroad again UNTIL NEXT JUNE! So they said I can use their garage again!
WAHAY!
2 weeks in the sun on Friday then the rebuild starts with a BANG!
Ade
hey ade any updates on this sweet, sweet project??
Nice going on the neighbours garage ;)
DW-Nova
18-09-07, 08:59 PM
Brilliant project mate, have you managed to get anything else done recently? just embarking on my nova project, i hope to post some pictures up soon. what you going to do engine wise on your car?
just back off me holidays and straight back into work (which is mental at the moment) so not much done.
Wifes just bought a horse which means I've got my "life" back in terms of spare time
lol
So while shes up at the yard mucking out I'll be doing the same on my nova - hopefully!
Ade
kevster
05-10-07, 10:29 PM
good luck with her dude
lol
05/10/2007 - some progress
Well not really - I took delivery of a 2 tone engine crane this afternoon - I swear it was delivered by Tommy "fluff" Vance.
http://newsimg.bbc.co.uk/media/images/40895000/jpg/_40895945_vance_pa203.jpg
Not 'arf
Was in 2 packages - 1 x 90kg's and 1 x 30kg's - the 90kg one the guy just slung it on his shoulder and waltzed up me drive.
Was feckin heavy!
The bloke then gave me a 5 minute description of how he had to lug an 18ft trampoline up some womans drive.
Hero!
paddy138
05-10-07, 11:46 PM
any progress yet
Tuesday 09/10/2007
Managed to clear the sh1te out of my garage (been decorating) and found my car buried underneath tons of junk! Undamaged thankfully
Started to do some work on the bonnet which is the main start point for my body kit build.
At the moment the front end is covered in card/masking tape whilst I try and get the general shape right - I'll put some pics up Wednesday if I can get round to it.
In the meantime - picture a bonnet similar to a corsa/astra (new style) with the new style V grill in between a set of Fiat Punto mk2 lights. Looks pretty "mean" in my opinion - sort of bad boy but definately not!
lol
Once I'm happy with the general look I'll be making up metal extensions which will be blended in ready for a full bonnet skin to be made. I dont want to "bolt" an extension on the front of the car so am going with a full bonnet skin which will extend past the front of the existing bonnet and come back underneath following the contours of the lights to be attached underneath along the existing bonnets edge. Much more secure. This will also allow me to remodel the bonnet line details and add (if I can) the new style centre line thats seen on most cars nowadays...
Heres some pics of the card rough template - gives me an idea of what I'm working towards
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet012.jpg
added reference lines so I can transpose the measurements to metal
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet014.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet015.jpg
Now for cutting in metal - this bonnet will make the master to take a cast from - I'm using metal to get a rigid smooth impression. Also allows me to sort out the difference in angles between the punto extension and the nova bonnet. First I mark up the grid -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet017.jpg
cut and bend
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet018.jpg
and attach - (used that liquid metal stuff).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet019.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet020.jpg
and the same for the edges -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet022.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet024.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet023.jpg
Next step is to smooth with filler and then blend in with existing bonnet (theres a slight difference in angles that filler should sort out).
I then need to do the bonnet curve details and the underside to reinforce the front section.
Sunday 14/10/2007.
Had mates up all weekend and after they went nipped in the garage for an "hours worth" of tinkering...
Plan today was to smooth in the front metal extensions I'd added.
For reference, these have been added to help give the pointed front end feel that the newer style Vauxhalls (and most cars) seem to have nowadays.
I started by cleaning up the panels - removing excess bonding material.
I then looked at the angle between the newer front extension and the nova bonnet. There was a definate dip in the middle where the 2 are joined. The problem is filling this gap effectively whilst avoiding ripples. I also wanted to try and make a start on sorting out the lines on the bonnet - trying to match up the new section, the nova bonnets original lines and the light edges so it flowed.
Finally I wanted to gauge how the wings would look when the corners were extended to match the bonnet/lights.
So to fill the dip in middle part of the bonnet - I thought I'd make 2 further panels out of a thicker sheet steel that would effectively bridge the gap - sitting just above the 2 front panels fitted the other day (see above). These I'd bond with filler and then smooth in the edges with the rest of the bonnet. I decided to use filler because I'd run out of the other stuff lol
This initially didnt go to plan. Once the filler had set, although the panels fitted perfectly and did the job well, they were too big and raised the height of the bridged gap too much (they stood proud). It's was impossible to trim the thickness of the panels without causing an uneven surface, so I decided to remove them and start again...Luckily they came away very easily...
And as a stroke of sheer luck the filler underneath which has been squashed nice and flat was perfect mirror image of the underside of each of the panels and filled the dip perfectly!
All I have to do is smooth the edges and a few bubble holes and I have a smooth curve. The panels also helped as a guide for the bonnet lines, defining them a little better - although I'm still considering what to do with them in terms of the way they will look.
Once I'd removed the panels I decided to have a crack at remodelling the corner of one of the wings. At the moment I'm looking to get a general feel at how much each one will need. I used professional grey plastecine (more durable than the kids stuff) to build up the extension. The plastecine was taken from the front of the wing out to match the bonnet and down th follow the contour of the lights. The idea being once the bonnet is complete a proper plastecine extension can be made and a cast taken from it so a fibreglass extension can be created. This will then be bonded to the existing wing through metal suppoer connections on the back and underside of the wing. The inside will then be filly sealed but left hollow. the outside that joins to the wing will them be skimmed with filler.
The pics below show the wing extension. you can also see where the middle panels were removed from on the bonnet...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet046.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet047.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet042.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet045.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet038.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet036.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet034.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet040.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet033.jpg
The grill is from a new style Astra cut down - this isnt lined up correctly at the mement so the gaps either side look bigger than they actually should be (mainly caused by the underside of the bonnet not being complete)
Next stage is to smooth the area where the panels were on the bonnet and do the lines. Then I'll start on the underside.
coombsey
14-10-07, 10:18 PM
is it me or does it look slightly like an vectra sri
which one? not the new one.
coombsey
14-10-07, 10:37 PM
about an s reg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet036.jpg
Stunning work Ade! This will look phenominal when its finished!
I must say it has quite a 'beefy' look to it, kinda monaro/VXR8 but not quite, can't put my finger on it, but i like it. You do reliese it needs to be RWD V8 powered now tho... lol
I was thinking Monaro too. Something very Evo-esque about it though too...
Some mad fabrication work gone into this.
Should be totally unique when finished.
Top stuff
lol good work ade :thumb:
i can see the vectra look to it aswell lol
wot a car mate cant wait to see it when its dun :)
nova.joe
22-10-07, 11:23 PM
just spent the pest part of tonight (4-5hours) reading this and i must say this has inspired me to get my first nova.
the attention to detail and effort!
good luck mate ;)
nice one!
Been busy doing the front end - spent most of the weekend messing with the bonnet, smoothing it and shaping it to get the lines right. Also filled the void underneath and started to smooth it (the extension bit) - ready for casting.
looks pretty good although still a fair amount of work to do on it...and thats just the bonnet!
Clatters
23-10-07, 03:57 PM
OMG... i have just spent 3 - 4 hours reading this whole thread! it was so worth it i could of just carried on for hours! you have done some amzing work there ade.. you deserve alot of credit and respect for that most people would of just gone and bought pre made parts and got other people to do it for them! but not you, it is totally original and is a one off masterpiece! im just p****d off i wont get to see the finished project as im going away! ill try my hardest to stay with this as much as i can tho! good luck and i wish you all the best!
lol - it's gonna be another year at LEAST before its back on the road.
looking good mate...
getting hard to beleive that theres still a nova under there lol
Monday 29/10/2007
Was working this weekend but managed a few hours on the bonnet after work. Spent most of the time sculpting the 2 lines to run evenily (an absolute biatch)
Tonight though I finally got it to a stage where I could give it a coat of primer. This will allow me to assess the work to date as well as tidy it up a bit - letting me see where I need to work on next.
Heres what it looked like prior to priming...(this image was prior to the bonnet being smoothed over as well)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet045.jpg
This is how it looks now after the lines have been started and the 1st coat of primer is on -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bp6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bp2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bp9.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bp8.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bp7.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bp5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bp4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bp3.jpg
Primer hides a miltitude of sins (especially in these pics) - theyre not as nice as they look.
Next step is to dust the whole surface with a speckle coat of black paint then give it a light sand to see where the dips and flat areas are. Then I need to continue working on the 2 lines - get them nice and even.Theres some depth issues I need to address which can be seen in a couple of the pics.
Once the tops done I then need to work on the underside - At the moment one sides slightly higher than the other caused by an uneven underside.
I'll try over the next day or so get a draft with the grill and bumper on the front - give an idea of what it will look like...
woah! that really pulls it together, this will be amazing when finished. Just a note on the bonnet tho, don't you want to strenghten the underside first and then level it?
You do reliese it needs to be RWD V8 powered now tho... lol
BTW, I'll settle on a 2.5 V6, come on - it needs a 'meaty' engine :rock:
Fook Ade! That bonnet does look bloody good mate!!
P.S. Its really starting to look like a Vectra from the front lol
scott.parker
30-10-07, 06:56 PM
Ade mate my hat goes off to you! 110% respect, your work looks amazing, and im well impressed your still going at it all this time later.
BUT (theres always a but!) for me it is starting to resemble a vectra a little bit too much for my liking..:p ;)
well done though mate.
Scott
krobinson
30-10-07, 07:08 PM
Looks pretty cool, good work Ade :D
lol at the vectra comments - HOPEFULLY it wont!
Re the underside - yes it will be strengthened - remember the above bonnet is a master from which an entire fibreglass skin will be taken. The skin will cover the WHOLE bonnet front to back incliding sides - there will be an underside section reinforced and rivitted top the existing nova lip. you can see the bonnet I'll use in one of the above pics (white one).
Spent most of tonight cleaning up the 2 bonnet lines - one of them was out a few mil.
Just a qeustion, are you planning on doing something just as radical for the rear aswell?
you'll need to look back several pages re the rear end - but yes. Currently have a nova boot smoothed with a big circle cut in the middle where a VW (which will be rebranded to a VAUX) badge will sit but the badge will lift up to open the boot like the new style Golf's.
see here - http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33653&page=30
and here - http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33653&page=37
Saturday 3/11/07
Spent the last few days smoothing the imperfections out of the bonnet (most of the primer in the above picks has been sanded away from the front now).
Cleaned up and balanced both of the bonnet lines so they are now exactly paralell, the same height and the same distance from the edge.
Started work on the underside of the bonnet - cleaned up the area between the bonnet and the grill/light tops and started to smooth the underneath that joins on to the existing bonnet.
Fitted both wings to ensure they still line up and cleaned up the plastecine on the passenger wing to match the bonnet - smoothed it ready for casting.
Added custom clips to support the "V" grill
and managed to slice my finger length ways on a piece of metal. Have a nice deep 1" gash running from the finger nail to the 1st joint on the edge. Not sore but bled like feck!
I'll take some pick tomorrow - after I've spent the day with the wife at a horse show shes competing in...
Wow looked great mate,, wheni saw the primerd pics i just started laughing because it works so well, i just couldnt belive it GREAT work mate
imo it looks abit Evo 10ish
mikey14sr
04-11-07, 12:59 PM
Thats looking like top quality work there Ade. With regards to fitting the new skin onto the new bonnet, wouldn't it be easier to remove the supporting framework from a bonnet, then extend it to support the extension and fibreglass it in to the new skin?
stunning mate, that bonnet looks top work! looks stunning indeed!
FUSION X16XE
04-11-07, 06:17 PM
Amazing work mate thats guna looks sumink else when finished!! well done.
Tom
Thats looking like top quality work there Ade. With regards to fitting the new skin onto the new bonnet, wouldn't it be easier to remove the supporting framework from a bonnet, then extend it to support the extension and fibreglass it in to the new skin?
may have a point - will need to look at the spare bonnet inner section. I think its welded to the edges then held in place with that glue stuff.
Might save on weight...
amazing ade!!
looks factory
mikey14sr
05-11-07, 12:05 PM
may have a point - will need to look at the spare bonnet inner section. I think its welded to the edges then held in place with that glue stuff.
Might save on weight...
Yeah I believe the skin is spot welded on around the edges. The main reason behind suggesting it is that if you were taking a mould of the entire bonnet, so that you had an entire skin to bond to the white one, the skin of the white one would prevent you from bonding it on, if you get what I mean like (due to the raised centre section being in exactly the same place).
Even if you were only going to take a mold for the extension, you'd have the problem of blending it in to the white bonnet again (along with lining it up again).
Wednesday 14/11/2007
Didnt do anything on the car as such but placed an order for some PU foam board to make my grill and bumper.
Basically I'll cut rib sections from the baord and stick each section together to form the basic shape, carve it to give some basic detail, seal it with resin and glass tissue and skim with a fine body filler (called bodylite no7). Then i simple sand to the right shape. Once thats done I paint it in primer and smooth it so its really smooth and after about 10 coats of mirror glaze its ready for molding.
That's the idea anyway - will apply for the rear bumpoer and side skirts too - may even apply to my custom dash - but thats a fair bit away yet...
so - heres some "very rough" images of 2 possible bumper styles -
1st - the "Nova" one - based on the drawings from page 7
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/nova1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/nova2.jpg
and the 2nd - based on the focus sti
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/focus1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/focus2.jpg
I'm torn...
Cant really do a combination on both because the angles of the lower section are opposite.
What do you think - and feel free to post you own designs.
NovaLad
20-11-07, 06:59 PM
I like the STI 1
IMO id go with what ever is going to be the easiest to produce.
The ST item, if based upon a genuine ST bumper is obviosly going to cost a fair whack. Personally id keep GM :D
mikey14sr
20-11-07, 07:10 PM
First one, focus is just too ugly!
paddy138
20-11-07, 11:10 PM
i prefer first one, they are two top designs but
Welsh Dan
21-11-07, 12:50 AM
The top one I reckon :).
NovaLad
21-11-07, 12:52 AM
Why not just make both then decide once you have seen them on the car...
paulnova
21-11-07, 02:10 AM
Top one imo
the top one is more stocky looking in the sketch - both items will be made from scratch - unfortunately I cant afford to make both at the moment.
Theyre basically the same just the centre lower vent is inverted...
I think I'll need to draw them up to scale see if that makes a difference...
been looking at them in more details and I think the top one wins it over. the focus styles one just seems a little bit too "flimsey" looking for some reason.
My PU foam arrived today so will probably start carving it out over the enxt few weekends. Getting Sky fitting this weekend mind so may just turn into a "Homer"
D'OH!
Matt2107
23-11-07, 06:24 PM
Glad your leaning towards the first one Ade.
I think you'd regret doing the ST based one as people might think its an ST bumper.
You've always been original with your own designs and ideas... stick with that and you won't go wrong ;)
It's a shame you can't use an 07 number plate as I'd imagine a lot of people will look at the finished car and think Vauxhall have re-vamped the Nova.
It's a shame you can't use an 07 number plate as I'd imagine a lot of people will look at the finished car and think Vauxhall have re-vamped the Nova.
i recon he should badge it up as a vxr nova going by the front end
novacabrio
23-11-07, 08:12 PM
why not go along the lines of
http://www.evo.co.uk/images/front_picture_library_UK/dir_439/car_photo_219519_5.jpg
aye thats pretty smart - the original design was based on the monaro/corsa opc so will draw up some finer plans...
like the wheels on that!
Very nice car coming along there hopefully see it at the shows in lets see a couple of years :lol:
dave.gsi
25-11-07, 12:20 PM
what colour are you painting your vectra ade?lol
what colour are you painting your vectra ade?lol
exactly what the front looks like well i thought so
Going to be a one off thou when its finished
IT'S NOT A FECKIN VECTRA!
lol
probably dakar yellow with anthracite highlights - or Anthracite.
DW-Nova
29-11-07, 10:04 PM
Car looking mint, i agree on the wheels they do look mint, i think theyre 19's tho and obviously 5 stud so be a bit of a pain to fit. reading this is a motivation to me to get working on my nova, in the process of stripping it down to a bare shell to get it acid dipped and phosphate coated.
dave.gsi
29-11-07, 10:05 PM
if a vectra had sex with a nova..................it would give birth to your car lol
if a vectra had sex with a nova..................it would give birth to your car lol
A Novra? Nover? Vecva lol
nah - its actually been nicknamed "Puntova" - or "novunto" due to the punto's lights...
Well today I decided I'd buy a mig welder this weekend. Been poking about the rear arches and think I need to replace them.
No idea on how to weld but bought several books and have a wad of scrap metal so will mess about with that till I'm up to speed.
Work looks fantastic ade, and i'm amazed you've done this without any welding so far !
The only thing i'm worried about is the top half of the car ! With all these super-modern looking bumpers/lights/grill e.t.c isn't it going to look like you've chopped the top half off and replaced it with a poorly designed 80's box ?
DW-Nova
01-12-07, 10:58 AM
Hey how about a roof chop? would look mega neet but be very hard to get looking nice. Has anybody ever seen this done to a nova before?
the top should be okay. The boxy look should fit with the body kit which has sharp lines on it - also I plan to mess about with the spoiler - perhaps extend it a bit (eg new fiesta st style one).
DW-Nova
01-12-07, 02:26 PM
Sorry to post this question in here but i was wandering how to start my own post so i can put up some pictures of my own project?
Ade, looking good. With regarsds to learning to weld hop over to mig-welding.co.uk (http://www.mig-welding.co.uk), there are some good tutorials and a really helpful forum. Mikey14sr and myself both hang about there.
cheers Bump - just joined
Saturday 01/12/2007
Christmas came early in my house!
Posty deliverey my new chrome uprated boot strut courtesy of supernovas
Also delivered a new bootpop kit courtsey of Blaize Electronics
Took myself off to Machine Mart and picked up the following welding gear -
Clarke 110E gas mig welder. Comes with CO2 bottle, welding mask, regulator and wire
Some welding Gauntlets
Spare wire
A nice Clarke joggler with hole punch
2 x argon heavy use canisters
and a proper welding mask with flip up face protector and flip up screen
?250 all in. V Happy!
All I got to do now is remember how to feckin weld!
lol
love the car, top work m8, am sure with the amount of time and patience put into your headlight conversion picking up welding wont be a problem. ignore the whole roof chop thing, think that would take it too far with the shape and angles of the car. if you need any help with fibreglassing methods and materials pm me, have done quite a bit of it. lmao at the predicted end date at start of post but top work bud, keen to see finished article:thumb:
Ade, drop Weldequip a PM on mig-welding and grab an auto mask, once you've used one you never go back. I've been using them for about 6 years now.
DW-Nova
04-12-07, 08:40 PM
Hows the welding going? i found it real trick at first and kept welding the wire to the tip of the welding gun which was really annoying as it ment i had to keep taking the welder apart and unravalling the wire etc. however after a bit of practice it really dose become very easy and once you step back and have a look at what you've done it feels really good. the car is really looking smart now mate, i love the idea of the punto lights blended into the nova front end, i'd never ever thought of this before. great car and good luck with the rest of it.
ta - havent even had chance to unpack me welder yet but hsve been warned about the welding the tip thing. Bought some spare tips just incase!
good luck with welding ade, its easy once you know how..
DW-Nova
14-12-07, 07:47 PM
How's the nova coming along mate? you managed any sucsesful welds yet?
lol nah - welders still in its box - havent had 5 mins to do anything.
Dont think I'll get much chance this side of Christmas now tbh - working this weekend and my shifts are right bawstewards between now and next Friday. However I'm off Thursday and then I have a week off 1st week in Jan 08 so will probably mess about then...
Saturday 29/12/2007
More parts gathering today - picked up a set of minted GM front wings from a fellow PNG'er this afternoon. the pattern parts I had were okay but the gaps were a bit out and they seemed a tad short in length at the front (didnt fit the lower valance snuggly).
New ones are perfect (as youd expect from a GM part).
Took a detour via B&Q on the way home and picked up a bandsaw in the sales along with a few other odds n sods...will come in useful.
Off work next week although most of it will be spent away for anniversary - but when I get back the project will pick up big time - deadline is September 2008!
vaughanmc
29-12-07, 05:52 PM
Good to see your still cracking on with this :)
It's like childbirth (so I'm told). The progress is slow - the pain is horrible - it's taking forever - I want it finished NOW - but in the end (hopefully) it'll be worth it!
Or the missus will have it scrapped!
DW-Nova
02-01-08, 11:09 PM
Its nearley september!! Lol. Hows it goin mate? you done anything else recentley to the car? oh just out of interest are you goin to be painting the car again yourself? and what colour is it goin? or gonna stay red? good luck anyway mate, this is the best thread on here, totally original.
Done a little more to the bonnet - basically I thickened it up. the reason being (after a few posts of the usbject on this thread) - if I took a cast from the original one the new skin wouldnt just bond straight onto the spare bonnet I have - simply because the thickness of the fibreglass would obstruct it.
So I've beefed up the original design with a 3mm layer of acrylic sheet curved and bonded to the existing design. It's been bonded and filled along the gaps/edges - just needs shaping the checking for accuracy however compared to the original design I've already noticed a slight difference from one side to the other.
It's my wedding anniversary over the weekend so am going away (weather permitting) so probably wont start any proper work on the car till the following week - then it will literally be all hands to the pumps!
Current thoughts on colour is BMW Dakar yellow (or similar) with gunmetal/anthracite lower valance/skirts and wheels...
September sounds like a close deadline but its basically 9 months - plan to have the car and kit ready to spray by April (ish). Whilst its away I'll work on the dash and interior...
ade
Wednesday 09/01/2008
Day off work so attacked the bonnet (again) - had some problems getting it balanced correctly - the drivers side for whatever reason was slightly higher at the edge where the wings meet when compared to the passenger side. the odd thing was the thickness of the bonnet on that side was the same as the other - managed to figure it out as a combination of too much material underneath catching on the top of the light housing and the wing not being properly aligned...
Now that both sides are the same height I needed to ensure the front corners were the correct shape and met the lights at the right angle - this was (and is) a nightmare as everything needs to be measured then check by eye...almost there though - just the drivers side corner needs blending a bit more.
Thankfully once this is done thats the bonnet pretty much ready to be moulded. I'll give it a coat of paint and level everything before hand but the new increased thickness means I can now just take a copy in fibreglass and then bond it directly to the donar bonnet I have spare.
Also got a couple of packages delivered today - my new rear 1/4 panels and drivers full sill arrived courtesy of www.beeversautopanels.co.uk and I also got some items from www.frost.co.uk - comprehansive auto restorers, included some special little grips for welding called intergrips that hold your panels in place ir awkward places without the need for clamps!
Thursday 11/01/2008
Spend most of the evening sanding the corner from the previous day - finally managed to resolve my bonnet corner issue and both sides are now within 5mm of each other which isnt bad considering...
I applied another primer coat and checked for further adjustments - of which there are several - most to do with the 2 curves line details on the bonnet - also the detailing on the front needs tidying up a little...
Heres current pics - they look very similar to the prev ones I posted prior to thickening up the bonnet however the front is a tad different - plus both sides are now balanced...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet20001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet20002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet20003.jpg
Now the top of the bonnet is pretty much done I should sort the underside out however its pretty much done as well - just needs tidying up - but I really need to leave it till I've sorted out the grill area out (incase I extend it under the bonnet).
I need to work on the wings and sort out the parts that will go round the lights and then extend the tops...
Heres what I'm up against...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet20006.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet20005.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/bonnet20004.jpg
I've modified the wings slightly to account for the depth of the new lights but what I'm not sure about is whats the best way of filling the gaps? Iit needs dont really want to bodge it as I want it to last and the thicker the filler the bigger the risk of cracks so I'll probably need to fabricate some kind of metal support and skim it with filler.
the 1st task is to extend the line fron the wing to the back of the lights and up. I then need to extend the corner to blend with the curve of the bonnet. Then I need to sort the lower section - the current Nova corner where the grill clips are fits very snuggly underneath the light base so I'm looking at extending this out so the bonet has something to clip on.
I'm not 100% sure how this is going to blend in...time to rattle the brains I think...
Anyone ever made fibreglass wings??? mmm
I think Dan and a few others were on about standard size F/G wings, obviously you get the wide ones...
Could you not chop up some punto wings and sort of tack that on? Maybe lead fill it?
mmm not a bad idea - although dont really wanna have to fork out for a set of punto wings...will hunt about
DW-Nova
12-01-08, 12:06 AM
Looking good mate, the gaps at the front do seem to be one of those annoying little niggles though, obviously using plain body filler would be a recepie for disaster cause it'd definetley end up cracking, perhaps the best thing to do would be to get some fibreglass wings and mould the front of them to the shape of the lights with some more fibreglass and a skim of filler, it'd definetley be a whole lot easier than trying to make some metal supports, the other option of using the front half of punto wings isn't a bad idea though, granted you would have to buy a pair but theyre not expensive, however it may be difficult to get it looking nice after tacking the front half onto nova wings (lining everything up etc) look forward to seeing the result whatever you decide to do.
mikey14sr
12-01-08, 02:54 PM
I'd cut the required bits off a scap punto and tack them on with the welder, then use FG to blend the two together.
Sunday 13/01/2008
Decided last night to make 2 light surrounds for the corners of my wings. Deliberated for ages about making fibreglass ones but that would be too complicated and long winded and cost more in materials in the long run. Buying Punto wings was too expensive and a waste - also the angle of the corners although correct is slighthly steeper (downwards) than the angle I'm using.
I recently picked up a set of GM front wings from a guy off here and as a result I had a spare set of patterns wings. These werent a great fit however I got to thinking perhaps I could lob the front corners off these and modify them with a bit of hammer and dolly work and weld them on to the front of my new wings...this I felt was the best course of action.
So I set about my old pattern wings.
The idea is to cut a section from the old wings leaving enough material to allow me to adjust the flow of the front part of the wing to bring the new section up behind the new lights - which actually protrude a little outside the "natural" curve of the existing wings. because the angle of the new front section is shallower that the front part of the Nova wings (which drops off sharply) the differences in height between the new welded section and the existing wing can be belnded in with a skim of filler - no more than a few mil thick.
The 1st task was to make a card template of the basic shape around the rear of the punto lights and then the angle across the front. I then needed to modify the angle of the corner. The nova wing corners are stubby and well rounded unlike the punto ones which are sharp and pointy. After chopping off the front 1/4 off the old wings and flattening back the undercuts of metal and set about hammering the stubby nova nose into a pointy punto one. Took about an hours to get the basic shape.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/wings0002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/wings0003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/wings0004.jpg
I then needed to cut the excess metal off leaving enough to make the new undercuts and to follow the line around the light housings and underneath the lights. This took a further hour of fettling and filing and bending.
The nova corners also have to detail lines that run contours down the wing. these had to be adjusted so further fettling was needed...
Heres the semi finished result -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/wings0009.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/wings0010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/wings0013.jpg
I also did the other side -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/wings0014.jpg
The both fit really well.
Heres a pic of the parts I made today -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/wings0007.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/wings0037.jpg
Theres still a bit of work to do on them both - I need to clean off the black primer and then sand them smooth to ensure theyre both level.
I'll then tack weld them into place and then a bit more hammer and dolly work will be needed to ensure thet sit smooth and level with the corner of the bonnet and the tops/sides of the lights. I'll then weld them up.
Both corners will no doubt get a light coat of filler to remove any dips etc but I'm happy with the current results - much quicker and stronger than fibreglass!
Ade
youve been watchin to much Discovery Turbo lol
great work again ade
pmsl! That's exactly what I have been doing - some mad show on Saturday night called chop cut rebuild!
vaughanmc
13-01-08, 11:13 PM
Looking good mate, when do you think it will hit the roads?
DW-Nova
14-01-08, 11:40 PM
Looks excellent mate, usual top work, i really cannot wait to see this project once its finished, just out of interest what are your plans for the interior? are you going to do something totally random like the punto headlights? punto dashboard? look forward to your reply.
NovaJackie
15-01-08, 07:24 PM
just read through this whole thread - brilliant read!!
This is great work Ade, can't wait to see it moving along. Will be keeping an eye on this!
P.s love the models!
interior will have a custom dash (using MG ZR rounded air vents) in car PC, touch screen, custom door cards, retrimmed seats, head lining etc...
That's a fair bit away though - the aim this year is to get the exterior done and the car on the road in time for VBOA or Trax at the latest...
mikey14sr
19-01-08, 09:13 PM
Nice bit of metal bumping there Ade, you best get practicing with that welder soon!
looking good
at least on a par with joff eventually
Saturday 19/01/2008
Been working late shifts all week so not done owt since I made the extensions for the front of the wings however today I decided to take up the challenge and teach myself welding!
Everyone and everything I've read says it's hard but once you master it it's a doddle - feck they aren't wrong!
It's harder than a hard thing! I was at it for a couple of hours just on hacked up bits of scrap and only started to get the feel for it towards the end of the session...
I started by trying to butt weld some scrap metal and tried to get an even amount of weld on both sides as well as practicing just welding through a normal whole piece of scrap...talk about hard.
Anyway this is what I got up to -
Here's my welder -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/welding0001.jpg
and here's my reference book -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/welding0002.jpg
I started with some old cut off bits of metal from my old pattern wings - it's about 0.8mm-0.9mm thick so based on the welder instructions I set my gas to reg 4, my wire to about speed 6 and my power to MIN (I have MIN and MAX settings) and off I went!
BLOODY HELL! For starters you can'tsee a thing through the mask and trying to hold the gun at the right angle whilst trying to move it about is bloody hard!
Here's my 1st attempt at trying to butt joint 2 bits -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/welding00016.jpg
The problem was penetration - it didnt seem to want to go through -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/welding00017.jpg
As you can see - it just sat on the top in big blobs -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/welding00018.jpg
Turns out after reading the book that the power isnt high enough to penetrate the thickness of the steel so I wacked it on MAX and after blowing a ton of holes in the metal turned up the wire speed and eventually started to get the hand of it. here's some tack welds - front -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/welding00010.jpg
and back -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/welding00011.jpg
Granted these are on solid steel (no butt joints) but I was impressed to manage this without blowing holes.
By this time it was 6pm so I called it a night...
Sunday 20/01/2008
Decided by the end of today I wanted to have both my wing extensions welded in place ready for the next stage (which is building the front section under the lights)
Had a little bit of a practice doing butt and lap joints firstly and based on the results and the descriptions in the book I felt I was ready for the big one!
I'd worked out how far the metal would go before I blew holes in it and recognised the "bacon frying in a pan" sound - I'd also got used to looking through the welding mask and could understand how the weld pool was going.
So armed with my new skill (cough I use the term lightly cough) I set about my wings as follows -
Started with the drivers side and began by cleaning off any paint and then after marking up the location on the wing I secured the extension in place with my new "C" clamps -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/welding00024.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/welding00031.jpg
A bit p1ssed off initially as I'd bought 2 bottles of argon/co2 gas for use on the wings (I'd been practising with the co2 supplied bottle) but after I'd set up the welder and gas and was about to start I noticed no gas was coming out of the nozzle. Did a thorough check and it turns out BOTH bottles I'd bought are empty! Now hoe the HELL am I supposed tpo prove that I didnt use them!!!
Luckily I had enough gas in my co2 bottle to use that instead - but what a p1sser!
I started by tacking up the extension to the wing -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/welding00032.jpg
Managed not to blow any holes but had to go easy as the metal at the edge was a little thinner after I'd sanded off the paint (I used a 120 grit flap disc on a grinder!)
Once this was cool I knocked the extension in place with a hammer to get it as close as I could and then went for it!
Heres the result after the 2nd run (the 1st had already been ground back)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/welding00036.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/welding00038.jpg
Where the 2nd run joins is actually in a dip created by the curve of the wing so it'll all be hidden by a skim of filler. Also it had penetrated in most places (which according to the book it doesnt need to do with a lap weld?!?)
I ground off the excess to get is reasonably smooth - at least flush with the edge of the extension anyway. There was a slight raised edge of weld at the "back" however it's not higher than the top of the wing so wont be visible when skimmed -
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/welding00039.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/welding00040.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/welding00041.jpg
vaughanmc
20-01-08, 09:17 PM
Quality work! Will be some toy when its done
great stuff not bad for 1st welds,
get cracked on lad lol
Sunday 20/01/2008 (continued)
I then gave the new addition a quick coat of primer to seal the bare metal (didnt have any etch primer on my at the time)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/welding00044.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/welding00045.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/welding00046.jpg
I then did the same to the passenger wing. noticed this whilst sanding off the paint for the other extension (a bit late my thinks!)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/welding00049.jpg
Heres the finished result (welding wise)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/welding00050.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/welding00051.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/welding00053.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v13/danga/welding00054.jpg
Now both extensions are in place and solid the next task is to fettle them in place more, sort out the basic curves on the existing lines into the new parts, then build and weld on the lower front section inderneath the lights.
I'll then seal them fully and skim with filler to get the final shape I want.
Overall though I had a really good day - really enjoyed myself and highly recommend welding to anyone who can be bothered!
Have loads of other non car projects buzzing around inside my head now (an arcade cocktail cabinet being one!)
lol - need to get the car done 1st thouugh - lol
nice work ade, but i think you should grind it back some more and fill the lil cavities with sum more weld, be easier for final finish then
probert_nova
20-01-08, 10:19 PM
looking good ade,very impressed with how well you shaped the metal. bet ya kickin yaself you didnt learn to weld earlier. lol
Martin - was thinking that however it looks deeper than it actually is - as i's going to be hidden by filler anyway I'm thinking it'd be a waste of gas/material.
The changes are I'll be going round the front of the car doing a few puddle welds for additional strength - can't hurt!
tom reid
21-01-08, 12:10 AM
Welds look, on the whole perfectly fine, you can only get better as time goes on, now go and buy a sh1ter Nova, that will really get your welding skills sorted, lol
Martin - was thinking that however it looks deeper than it actually is - as i's going to be hidden by filler anyway I'm thinking it'd be a waste of gas/material.
The changes are I'll be going round the front of the car doing a few puddle welds for additional strength - can't hurt!
fury muff, good luck with it mate. if you was closer id of love to of come and helped you with thre welding, and have a good noisy round:thumb:
mikey14sr
21-01-08, 09:28 PM
Good going for a beginner there:thumb:.
For a lap joint I'd have joggled one of the edges and drilled a few holes in the other for a few plug welds in place of the tacks, leaving a nice little grove to run a full weld in, but I've got a fair deal of experience with thin steel (10kgs of wire used on the current nova, + 4 years of mot repair welding in a garage). Those welds will certainly hold those pieces together though, you could always run a couple of stiches on the reverse side if you were unsure about them (don't forget to seal the join at the back).
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