HELP!!!!!!!!!! driveshafts again!!!

[robb]

I still have a problem with my O/S driveshaft.

Although I do have more info this time.

1.8 8v MK1 cav engine with F13 box (not CR).

I now have the diff plate off trying to find out the problem...
N/s shaft goes in fine and 'clicks' into place, take it out and put o/s one in clicks into place (just, with tap of hammer) but the diff locks up, as soon as it frees by turning the 'wheel' so to speak forwards the diff will unlock and pop the o/s shaft out.

It's not engine alignment and shafts that are pulling themselves out as I used just the knuckle to test above.

It's not clips on the end as the same knuckle will fit square and tight in n/s hole, and it was a c*nt to get out.

The shafts and box are fine as I took these out of my current car (leaving me carless) and they were definately in fine then and never popped out. I will not accept that it is the engine as I tried just the knuckle joint to test just the box.

I think that is everything.

PLEEEEEEEEEEEASE HELP I am on the verge of dropping the 1.8 project and buying a monkey bike

[Aragorn]

1.8 is a bigblock lump so the engine will be sitting in a different place from the expected and using a smallblock transmission on it prolly aint helping matters

[robb]

Yeah I figured that so that's why I tried just the knuckle joint to eliminate the possibility of geometry problems.

The bit I can't figure is why the diff locks up like a 100%LSD when the knuckle is fuly in place, if I could figure this out I would then be able to stop it locking when the knuckle or driveshaft is fully in place. I have had no problems with the n/s shaft, this will pop into place fine, even with the same knuckle that I tried on the o/s that pops out.

[rodgerq]

when you say knuckle i assume you mean cv joint?

is it when you put the two shafts in that the diff locks up? does it just not turn at all? does it do it with one shaft in or does it have to be both?

maybe your diff is knackered mate

rodgerq

[robb]

Yeah inner CV = knuckle joint......sorry don't know technical jargon names

It is when I have two inner CVs in each side of the diff that it is really hard to turn, then it will suddenly become easy to turn and the o/s inner CV is easy to pull out, I mean with ur hands!

I have a new idea from a mate who used to work as a mechanic, he played with it for a while.....then got a socket against the bearing and gave it a smack....then the shaft went in further, like it clipped in properly.....so gonna try taking oil seal out.....hitting the bearing (or get a new one) and try that......

will get some pictures tonight too of the insides to show u all...

[robb]

FIXED IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It turns out that the bib block lump as Aragorn said (hats off) is erm bigger....so it has a bit more metal on it near where it meets the gear box......there was just enough metal actually to get caught by 2mm on the wider part of the driveshaft stopping it go right in and or course locking it and pulling it out........So a zip with the angle grinder and the shaft sits snug and hasn't dropped any oil yet!!!!!!!!!!!!

Result.

Thanks to everyone who now has a headache over this!! (I know I have!)

[Will F]

Well done mate.
I expect to see the car very soon then! :lol:

[robb]

Yep,

Taking to MOT today so it gives me a few days to finish it before the weekend, still got the sunroof to sand in and spray.

Then I gotta take it to another mates house to use his timing light and gas tester thing to set it up.

Are you down Newport on Saturday cos I may pop down?

[rodgerq]

did you put the spacer inbetween the gearbox and the gearbox mount?(rear)

rodgerq

[robb]

I could have to solve the problem but I used a faster and cheaper weapon.......a grinder!!

It was only a small corner from the engine casting that was catching the shaft and holding it just out of the box, quick zip with the grinder (covering the holes and diff of course!!) and the shaft fits fine and hasn't leaked, covered 20-30 miles today!

That's one to remember!