2.0 8v conversion

[Dave]

work have given me a task to produce a quick but cheap nova so I have found a cav sri 2.0 8v donor car for a few notes.
am i right in thinking this will go straight on in the same place as the old mounts?
and i need to know what bits other than engine + loom to use,
which driveshafts i need or which ones can be matched with a gearbox to fit (eg gte/gsi do these bell housings match?)
and what other problems I'm gonna be likely to face as it comes along. Any help I can get would be muchly appreciated

cheers
dave

[rodgerq]

use the gearbox that came with the 2.0ltr. will be f16(cr if your lucky). you will need to do a couple of things to the mouunts in order to fit the engine. first one is you will need to use a different front drivers side mount so as to lower the engine about 1.5" - 2". the rear gearbox mount needs to be spaced away from the gearbox by 10mm aswell so a 10mm spacer goes between the mount and the gearbox. you can buy a full mount kit from www.valvers.com for pennies and this will be all you need to get the engine in the shell.

you need the ecu and engine loom from the 2ltr aswell. this will require wiring up to your existing nova loom but its only about 5 or 6 wires and is really quite easy.

you will need replacement shafts aswell so the inner cvs match up with the f16 box. if you canfind them, use a set of nova gsi shafts that have 22 splines on the inside edge of the shaft(with the cv joint removed) as mk2 1.6 cavy inner cv joints fit these shafts and fit the f16.

some people seem to have gotton away with not modifiying the chassis leg on the drivers side(as the 2.0ltr alternator fouls it) but i dont take any chances i just mash it in with a large hammer. if you need to see pics of where to hit the chassis leg email me and ill see if i can dig out a pic of the positioning of the dent you need to make.

rodger@longbar.freeserve.co.uk

also have a look on valver.com as they have a downloadable instruction sheel for a valver conversion which is basically the same as the 8v engine.

what model nova you got? if its not injection you will need a new tank and fuel lines and pump aswell.

rodgerq

[rodgerq]

also look here

http://www.corsa-novatuning.nl/uk/index1.htm

rodgerq

[epo]

neil aka broody will be another source of info mate

[madcodling]

so on a scale of 1-10 how easy is it to do with moderate engine experience?????/

[Austin_Nova16]

you use gte 22 spline shafts with the cav 1.6 inner cvs.

[rodgerq]

and if you are buying the inner cvs heres the part co part number

TDL3051R

rodgerq

[madcodling]

is this part number i.e from vauxhalls for standard replacement cvs for the cavalier

soz im not too clever

[rodgerq]

no, the comapny is Part Co

rodgerq

[madcodling]

ok has part co got an email address please

[rodgerq]

duno mte. do a search for them i'm sure they'll al least have a wesite.

rodgerq

[broody]

This is what i did with buying new parts so i know they are new...

Was a 1.2 SPI engine before....

You need engine mounts, got mine ?60 from cossvaux in sheffield.
Cav innner cv's. cost be ?35 each, cossvaux again,
22 spline shafts, something like ?80 each, cossvaux again.
2ltr 16v cav gsi callipers, ?20 from scrappy
performance discs and pads, about ?50.
new belt, leads, plugs, like ?30 if that.
Corsa MPI fuel in-tank fule pump, straight swop.

Used my old fuel tank.
Wiring was just matched up wire for wire, not all of them were used from cav one.

Have to cut the extra pully off on the end off the bottom pully as it scrapes on the inner arch(you wouldn't beleave how annoying the noise is!

Cant think of anything else...just ask if u have ne questions.

[badnova]

does it still work without that pully

[broody]

yes, well basicaly if u look at this pic ive done for you,
imagine your looking at this from the BACK of the engine,
the blue bit is the engine, green bit is the cam belt, and the red bit is the end bit of the pully you can get rid of to stop it grinding on the chasis leg of the car.
The bit to the left of the red bit is the seat of the pully part which the power steering belt would of gone in.

You can change the pully for a pully which hasn't got a power steering one on. wish i had of now.

http://www.stuffing.freeserve.co.uk/pully.jpg

[madcodling]

have you got a web site add for cossvaux

[rodgerq]

yes, well basicaly if u look at this pic ive done for you,
imagine your looking at this from the BACK of the engine,
the blue bit is the engine, green bit is the cam belt, and the red bit is the end bit of the pully you can get rid of to stop it grinding on the chasis leg of the car.
The bit to the left of the red bit is the seat of the pully part which the power steering belt would of gone in.

You can change the pully for a pully which hasn't got a power steering one on. wish i had of now.

http://www.stuffing.freeserve.co.uk/pully.jpg

if that end pulley groove is for the powersteering, you forgot to draw on the pulley for the alternator belt :P . or when you said cam belt did you mean alternator belt perhaps?

any how your right you do need to grind off the outer pulley groove so it clear the underside of the chassis rail, i forgot about that. :beer:

rodgerq

rodgerq