swapping a gearbox casette

[mikeoxford]

charles did it previously for me. with little assistance from myself.

when he did it my diff was out. is it possible to swap the casette without removing the diff? it lasted approx 3 month

and is it a job i can do on my own?

thanks

[mikeyredtop]

thats why i want a spare cr, incase i break somate when i do mine

[rgv_stu]

yeah no need to take the diff out unless your changing the final drive. it all just pulls out when youve taken the selector fork off

[mikeyredtop]

the final drive is a combination of 2 cogs not just the diff...

[BigRuss]

Don't You have to take the reverse switch out as well :?:

[Stuart]

no the reverse switch dosent have to come out, but it can make things a little easier if its not in.


its a very simple job, just takes a bit of time etc
you will have to drop the engine mount and obv lower the end down on a jack, also taking the tiebar nut off so you can get the strut out of the way (oh and the inner TCA bolt.

easy peasey :)

[rgv_stu]

yes mickey i know what the final drive is ...
im just saying that unlesss he was wanting to change the crownwheel over then there is no need to take out the diff

[CP]

:o broken? :( how - broken teeth or what?

well its not difficult - the final drive can stay intact - support the gearbox and undo the mount and lower it a bit to get the end casing off

[mikeoxford]

:o broken? :( how - broken teeth or what?

well its not difficult - the final drive can stay intact - support the gearbox and undo the mount and lower it a bit to get the end casing off

well theres a straight cut tooth in the sump of the gearbox.

the crown wheel of the diff has dragged it round a couple of times as there is scoring in the same place as the crown wheel.

it must have turned through 90 degrees at some point, so rather than being dragged under by the crown wheel, it has kinda dug into the sump and cracked it and made a hole about 5mm in diameter.

aragorn pointed out only the reverse is straight cut. so GOD KNOWS how thats happened? i only ever use reverse to get off the drive :lol: :roll:

[Aragorn]

the only streight cut drive gear is the reverse as far as i can see from the haynes diagram

there also appears to be a streight cut gear on the input shaft which looks like it also might be part of the reverse gearing

the synchros are also streight cut tho they appear to sit inside the mainshaft so i doubt one of their tooths could get out

have a look at the casette see if u can see anything

[mikeoxford]

off to collect a new casette tomorow :D

woooooooo

just hope its not invisibly damaged in anyway - my old one looked in mint condition before it went in.

how can i inspect the bearings etc of new one? just see if the shafts wobble?

dont want to end up with noisey transmission AKA neil :wink:

[Stuart]

if its got oil in it, make sure its not glittery, if its got "gold" glitter then its a baulk ring. not hard to replace as its only a brass item.

if the cassette is out then check that the very end of the outout shaft (but the FD pinon) isnt pitted at all.

the two bearings in the end plate arent that "testable" unless youve got the cassette stripped down. but since they are possibly 15yrs old then might be worth you stripping it down and replacing those two bearings and all baulk rings. not hard, jsut time consuming

[mikeoxford]

jobs a gudden - all sorted :D

post in general chat. im yet to drive it yet though so maybe im tempting it a little :lol: