DIY Quickshift Linkage

[_JH_]

I'm going to cut about 7mm out and weld it back up.

Does anyone on here thats done/seen it have any suggestions as to whether 7mm is enough/too much? any other info greatly appreciated.

cheers

[beatin u]

how did you arrive at that meserment??

[CP]

dpends on what linkage you are working with - there are various- 1.2 are diff to 1.4 which are diff to astras even tho they all seem very similar and it can be extremely fiddly to get right

In a nutshell.
The linkage has 2 main parts
1. the top round bar linkarm which selects by rotating the selectors -ie 1st/2nd gate to 3rd/4th gate etc - ie sideways throw on the gear stick
2. The bottom flat arm with a u bend kink to give clearance round the speedo. This pushes/ pulls the selector ie 1st to 2nd - 3rd to 4th etc. - ie forwards/backwards throw on the gear stick.

1. To reduce sideways movement you need to lengthen, by around 10 -15mm, the upright lever that connects on the end of the top link where the main shaft from the gearstick comes thru into the engine bay and joins it.

2. To reduce fore and aft throw you need to lenghten the flat arm at the gear box end by around 10 -15 mm. Easiest way to do it is cut next to balljoint on the end and add 10 -15mm. This maintains the kink in the right place.

Be careful tho - too much can mean that you either are unable to adjust to get 5th and reverse and/ or you find you cant get 1st cos the arm is fouling the steering rack.

Some get similar effect by just sawing off 1" from the top of the gear lever. The other thing worth doing is getting a new central bush or having a metal one made to eliminate slop

[GaryGlasgow]

There is a company in Retro Cars magazine who sells a quickshift kit for just ?32.90 (includes vat) the shop is rally design Tel, 01795 531871. or www.raldes.co.uk if you dont want to go to the hastle it is a good price. hope that helps.