Optimum Nova suspension geometry settings??

[cmatty]

What are the best geometry settings for a road going Nova lowered 60mm? My car has a Bilstein streetline kit, polyurethane bushes, camber bolts and my tyres are 195/45/16.

Also can anyone suggest me a decent place in the London area that has four wheel laser alignment because all the normal garages near me will only do alignment to the manufacturer's settings :x .

[2litreturbo]

why four wheel?
there is no adjustment on the rear of novas.

[Ste_Nova]

What are the best geometry settings for a road going Nova lowered 60mm? .

not 60mm :lol:

[Nick]

i've spoken to someone who used to rally a nova and he said that...

60mm all round in too much !

40mm on back and his standard sri shocks on front , so that's -10mm on front and -50mm on back effectivly (compared to a standard nova). When you looked at it the sills were perfectly level, unlike mine which points down at the front !

My 1.2 is -40 on front and -40 on back, but compared to his optimum settings i'm 30mm too low at the front and 10mm to high at the back !

he'd literally tried every combination of spring/shocks and that's what he said was the best !

[nova_rally]

So far the best Handling suspension setup I've ever tried is the standard Mazda suspension on my old Mazda 121. That was macPherson Struts all round, with only a front Anti Roll Bar. The front springs were softer than they should have been and the front had dropped about 10mm consequently. It handled alost perfectly (tended towards understeer when you did lose it), much better than the Nova ever will.

Alan

[cmatty]

Sorry I think I have asked the wrong question. What are the best settings for camber, castor angle, tie in/out etc.

[novashed]

still be a waste if you keep it at 60mm, TV had settings in while back in thier nova setup feature

[Chris_W]

According to the TV article:
Tracking: 2mm Toe Out
Castor: 4 degrees positive
Camber: 2 degrees negative

Chris

[CP]

IMO on a road car for best alround handling with normal tyre wear you are best off with not much more than a -30mm lowered and uprated kit. If you have fitted larger alloys you want to aim for near neutral camber (slighlty negative)otherwise the inside tread will be worn off in no time fooking handling. Same with toe out for same reason. Larger wider wheels and tyres greatly exaggerate the effects of camber and toe so std settings dont apply cos they are for std wheels and suspensions.
Caster can only really be effectively altered by installing a lowered rose jointed tie bar kit. The more forward the wheels are pushed relative to the top mounts the more the caster. This basically makes the wheel want to steer straight more and improves feel and turn in but makes it more difficult to turn the steering wheel.

If you are going only on track then you can go crazy with loads of all of it