help with engine please

[djp_y2k]

hi guys.

My engine is now out. But have a few problems with removing bits.

Would show u a pic but some idiot has gone lost the lead to connect the camera to the computer.

Do I need to remove the brake servo, all copper brake pipes and steering rack.

These all seem to be in the way of removing the sound deadening, so logic says to do so.

Also. If any one has a pic of a bare enigne bay could they please mark all the areas which need welding.

This would be much appreciated.

Dan

[m.d.]

weld all along every seam that you can reach. ie. turrets,chssis leg to front cross member, chassis legs to bulkhead. around all the engine mounts and front tie bar brackets, basically everywhere that two pannels join.

[djp_y2k]

cheers dude.

Wot about removing everything else mentioned. DO i need to do that?

[Slatter]

dont do what m.d. said ...."weld all along every seam"

Stitch weld it, not seam! Weld a inch... leave and inch etc etc

Then if it cracks iw wont crack all the way along the weld

[Mark]

Also seam welding can make the car too stiff..

[Ben]

RE the sound deadining, if you want to remove iut all off the bulkhead then yes remove the master cylinder, you can remove it without taking the steering rack off but its so easy might as well and do it properly.

You can leave the brake pipes there, they wont get in your way that much.

[Ste_Nova]

hi guys.

Do I need to remove the brake servo, all copper brake pipes and steering rack.

These all seem to be in the way of removing the sound deadening, so logic says to do so.


cut the sound proofing

[Ben]

cut the sound proofing

Dont bodge it when you have spent so much time and effort, it your having the bay painted.

If you cut it off then there will still be sme trapped behind the seal of the master cylinder etc.

[Ste_Nova]

well you can get it all out... it's not bolted over it

but if running no soundproofing you need to remove the plate behind the servo

[djp_y2k]

cheers guys.

took the master cylinder off, but left the rack on. sound deadening came off around that quite easy and didnt leave much crap behind which is cool.

Picked the engine up as well today to. :D

Everyone has said about removing the sealant from all the joins etc, but i cant see any. Only stuff that needs removing is the glue from the sound deadening and paint around everywhere that needs welding.

Thanks again

[Chris_W]

I could be wrong, but the sealant stuff only seems to relate to MK2 novas. My 1.2 (H reg) and 1.4SR (J reg) had it, my GTE (F reg) didn't.

Chris

[Ste_Nova]

Everyone has said about removing the sealant from all the joins etc, but i cant see any.


is your car a mk1?

[novax]

You could go the extra mile and weld in a Harry Hockly plate kit, this man knows everything about Novas "EVER!" This will strengthen the bay really well.

Tel:- 01686 628594 it's about ?100

[djp_y2k]

Yea my car is a Gte. I gather that means there wont be any sealant

Already odered the hh kit. just waiting for it to arrive now.

[Ben]

Use Carb cleaner to remove all the glue left behind the sound deadening.

[djp_y2k]

cheers.

Another question Ben just reminded me of.

I want to fit twin 45's to the engine. What else will I need other than the carbs, inlet manifold. Been told I can use my ecu, but not sure.

[Ben]

No you cant you use your ecu etc that will be binned.

Im not 100% sure on the 2.0l 16v but with the carbs on the 1600 8v you can get away with a 1.4 SR dizzy and coil.

There is a restriction with this system wich you can get past with MBE management or similar, best bet is to scour the rally spares sites looking for a complete setup and buying it ready to bolt on.

You will need in total...

Pair of Carbs
Inlet manifold
Fuel linkage
Different altenator bracket
Correct chokes

Like i said im not 100% on choke sizes and things for the 16v carbs but someone like Chris T will help with this as basically the same as he is running..

2.0l 16v engine, steel rods, Omega pistons (.5mm O/S), ported head, Kent cams, solid lifters, vernier pulleys, balanced, ARP bolts throughout, steel,oil pump drive and uprated pump, competition clutch, 2 x 45s with linkage and KNs, DTA management system. Complete engine only done one rolling road session (200 @ wheels) and one 4 lap race since built from ALL new parts. Offered at a fraction of build cost, can be tried in car

Found this online, is a good spec and you can see what is used, think wants about ?3k for engine though.

[djp_y2k]

sounds alot more involved than i thought.

The engine I have is the later c20xe (no dizzy)

Is this going to balls everything up or not.

Will pm chris T and c wot he has to say to.

Cheers

[Ben]

Its not that complex, if you can buy a set off a C20 XE then you should be fine, just bolt on complete new inlet system and wire it up.

[Aragorn]

u need the dizzy and coil from a 1.6 big block cav

the dizzyless XE should have a blanking plate over the dizzy hole - removing this should allow u to attach the dizzy from the 1.6 cav

needs to be a big block tho - meaning mk2 or possibly VERY early mk3
mk1 astra 1.6 is big block also

[djp_y2k]

ABout the sealant thing again.

Around the bottom part of the bulkhead and where the loom comes intot he engine (GTE) it is covered in sealant there. I have started to remove this.

Is this write.

[Ben]

Depends what quality of job your doing, some just do all the sealent visible when engine in others strip the whole lot out.

[djp_y2k]

fair enough.

Well mines half removed now, so may aswell carry one.

[Ste_Nova]

this bit?

http://uploader.co.uk/images/oldwiringhole.jpg

[suky]

WHAT ENGINE IS IT YOUR PUTTING IN????????????????

[djp_y2k]

only a 2.0l

so i've got it farely easy. lucky for me all the guys are willing to help out and answer the questions.

Thanks all.

By the way, its slowly getting there. Bloody boring stripping all the glue off. :roll: