lamda sensor info??

[Will]

the standard gsi wont be good enough for what i have planned im told, so the qn is, a performance heavy duty sensor...?? where from and how much

for 1600 8v

will

[Dicko]

off a rover 200 from velos ?50ish

its 4 wires and the normal gsi is 1 wire.

1 goes to signal, 1 goesto fuel pump +ve the other 2 go to ground!!

[Will]

*goes to scrappy in search of rover 200, lmfao

they are stronger are they mike?

can you explain why u need a more "heavy duty lamda" so to speak? just wudnt mind finding out why and its purpose

Thanks very much for your help

will

[Alex]

A lambda sensor contains a ceramic which become conductive for oxygen ions at a certain temp. One part of the ceramic is in the exhaust and another part of it is in ambient oxygen. when the percentage of oxygen contacting the 2 end is equal, then there is a balance of oxygen ions and no voltage is generated. If there is an imbalance a voltage is generated, which can vary quite a lot.
<--- look who has been reading up on lambda sensors recently

I am guessing a different lambda sensor will either be more sensitive and/or have a larger voltage range. This is a guess however so do not quote me :?

[Stuart]

there are wide and narrow band sensors, the rover 200 happens to have a wideish band due to it being a honda sensor (and theya re all hi tech lol).


a narrow band, fitted to things such as the gte/sri/gsi, most cars mit cat etc, will tell the ecu if its rich or lean, almost on a knife edge around 14.7:1

wideband sensors offer themselves to "motorsport" applications better becuause they can accurately read from say 10:1 to 20:1 which means you can set your ecu to keep the fuelling at 12.75:1 (near as damn it perfect for max torque)

wideband sensors are also called LAF (linear air/fuel sensors), tend to be fitted to 2K and on spec hondas and many other cars, to enable lean running, but the sensor is happy running rich :wink:


hope that and alex's post has helped (oh alex the ceramic ia zirconis type, incase you hadnt read that)

[Aragorn]

interesting

for starts ?50 is very cheap for a wide band sender - they retail at ?200ish

secondly the wide band sender normally has 5 wires as they need a 5v refrence feed as well as the others mentioned

that would lead me to believe the sender that dicko is referring to is simply your standard heated narrow band sender - which ?50 is a more reasonable price for

dunno why they want you to upgrade to a heated one tho - spose it gives a more constant output but then will the ecu even be setup to use it ? standard ecu aint gonna benefit any more and a programmable one has the lambda mode turned off most of the time

[Dicko]

nout wrong wiv some closed 'loop' action :P
well on my dta :twisted:

[MC]

CP's is a Rover 200 sensor, and the DTA loves it.

Will need a wdecent lambda when I have finished building his engine. :wink:

M

[Stuart]

does the ecu love it on an emotional level, or just a physical level? as we wouldnt want to hurt the feelings of the lambda sensor (unless its a slut) lol

[Aragorn]

point is there is only about 3 or 4 mfr's of narrow band sensors and 1 last time i looked wide band sensor and i doubt the rover 4 wire sender is wide band since the aforementioned wide band sensor has 5 wires

so it would appear that the DTA likes a particular brand of narrowband sensor?

maybe find who makes the sensor on the rover 200? give a bit more scope to find which sensors are most suitable...

[mikeyredtop]

so what if ive moved my sensor to the end of the downpipe will it still give the ecu the same output as if it was on the manifold, its around 2 feet away from original place.
ive done this due 2 a four branch been fitted without a screw thread for it. so made it further down in a place where if i messed up i could buy a new 4.50 section instead of a new 160 quid manifold...

[Aragorn]

yes but you'll need a heated sensor

[Stuart]

NTK make 99% of the worlds lambda sensors, LAF (wideband) A and D ( i think) types.


the sensors location dosent really matter (unless its after the CAT then its in the wrong place)

CP has his fitted to one of the branches near the head. many others have them jsut after the 4-1 or 2-1 collectors.

the location isnt really an issue although, personally id prefer to have it in the stream of all 4 cylinder gasses.

[Aragorn]

but like i said if its not next to the manifold you will need a heated sensor because a normal one simlpy wont get hot enough back there to operate correctly

[Will]

the sensors location dosent really matter (unless its after the CAT then its in the wrong place)

wots a cat? u mean de-cat? ;) lol

[mikeyredtop]

mmm ive actually got a three wire sensor spare, 2 white wires and 1 black.. they are labled on the plug, "c - b - a" c being the black one.
i'm thinking black is the output and the other are the + and -, what do u think>????

[mikeyredtop]

someone??

[CP]

The point about the Rover sensors is that they are fast. Its the speed with which they react that matters.
In any event never buy Lucas - they can be shite. I bought one and had to bin it.

[Aragorn]

black is output whites are 12v+ and gnd for the heater