Spraying the Beast!

[Tazzy]

This is all I have to re-spray the car!

Primers-

Hycote Acrylic Formation White Plastic Primer
(for Acrylic or Cellulose Paint)

Acrylic Formation White Plastic Primer
(for Cellulose Paint and other Primers)

Halfords Acrylic White Metal Primer
(for Cellulose Paint)

Tetrosyl Acrylic Metal and Plastic Primer

Paints-

Hycote Vauxhall Glacier White Double Acrylic Paint
(for Plastics and is compatible with Cellulose)

Vauxhall Glacier White Cellulose Paint

Lacquer-

Clear Lacquer
(for Acrylic or Cellulose Paints)

Questions
1) What is the difference between Acrylic and Cellulose Paints?

2) What combination of Primer and Paint is best for the plastic boot handle and rear cluster surrounds?

3) What combination of Primer and Paint is best for the rain guttering?

4) Should i Lacquer the plastic bit once sprayed?

cheerz!

[Jim]

This should be in styling!

Jim

[mikeoxford]

:lol: please excuse him jim he is a barmy brummy ;)

[Tazzy]

LOL, tooooooo true, its the only way to stay sain!

i wsnt sure whether to put it in there or in here, so i flipped a coin!

[ade]

acrylic is "safer" for the environment (allegedly) - cellulose is nastier but not as nasty as 2 pak (cyanide based!) which is the best paint to get because its plastic resin based (sets like resin). Acrylic is slightly more flexible than cellulose

Cellulose and acrlic are different compositions - and as such have their own characteristics - acrylic is water based - cellulose is cellulose (like petrol) based - they use different thinners - one wont mix with the other (seperates like oil and water) - however when one is dry you can usually spray the other one on top (which is why the above paints are either or).

Cellulose usually needs more coats if I remember correctly. Build up colour in thin layers. Acrylic is more dense so less coats but I think its softer.

The only one to watch out for is enamel - this will react and blister with cellulose - not good!

for your plastic parts (rain guttering, boot handle) anything thats flexible basically - first make sure its been keyed - usually this means spraying with a plastic primer coating - this allows any top coat to adhere and flex slightly. Then spray on your top coat in either acrylic or cellulose

Make sure you leave enough drying (flash) time between coats.

Once dry If using acrylic or cellolose you should apply as many coats of lacquer as you can - 3-5 is good - this acts as an invisible barrier to the paint coat, protecting it and giving it a really deep shine. Once fully cured buff up the lacquer coat. I'd apply lacquer to the whole car if doing a full respray - this will save on horrible stone ships which wont get past the lacquer coats (providing you apply enough!)

All high impact areas like the front of the car should be lacquered. Especially if youve resprayed the bumpers! The lacquer will soften any slight imperfections which can usually be buffed out once the lacquers fully sured - however major ones should be flatted out and resprayed before applying lacquer.

2pak doesnt usuay need lacquering because its as tough as nails but many people do to improve the shine.

[Tazzy]

cheers for that, the bumpers have been colour-coded, but i dont think theyve been lacquered, (or primered, but i could be wrong!) so whe nthe summer comes, ill either do it myself and learn something new, or just take it to a garage and have it done professionally, probably the latter if i can get the splitters in time!

if i do do it myself, what materials would be best?

cheerz!

[Tazzy]

ok, tomorrow comes the spraying of the beast, the boot handle, the clear rear cluster surrounds and the water lanes on the roof as im taking off those crappy plastic strips!

what primer(s) and what paint?

cheerz!