Tyres...[emoji848]

[NovalutionGSi]

Now I've gone to coilovers I have a small amount of chaffing on the rear.
Currently have 195/50/15s (Goodyear on rear and Dunlops on the front).
Also have 5mm spacers all round

Now I've taken the ride height up again for the moment as I'm still trying to get the look right but can't with the tyres touching.

What tyres are people using? Sizes etc.
I was thinking to go with 185/45/15s.

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[Iain]

I'm sure there's a sensible answer to this but.... Take the spacers off?!

Arches folded totally flat?

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[NovalutionGSi]

Without the spaces we're then on the springs of the coilovers for the rear.

Rear arches have had the lip removed and sealed. Fronts will need to be roll at some point.

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[Iain]

How are you for spring to chassis clearance? Reweld the lower mounting tab furher inwards, also a good opportunity to strengthen it.

Suggesting out or the box ideas because I wouldn't want to drop below a 195 personally!

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[NovalutionGSi]

[emoji51]
Probably find 5mm in there, to be fair, I've not looked at that. I'd also struggle with the welding. Might need to pop to see The Simps. [emoji1787][emoji1787]

I do have a 185 on the spare that I'll be test fitting to see the space it gives but no I dont really want to drop a size.
The Goodyears on there do have a fair amount of rim protection shall we say. What about a lower profile tyre? Giving less wall shouldn't bulge out as much once on the ground.

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[Iain]

A smaller profile would help a bit, or perhaps a 'less bulgy' tyre brand. Or a massive euro arch flare.

[totalnova]

I couldn't fit 195/50/15 tyres on the back with gaz coilovers
Had to fit 195/45s in the end, as you say the tyre hits the coilover without a spacer, but hits the arch with a spacer, you can't win

[NovalutionGSi]

I couldn't fit 195/50/15 tyres on the back with gaz coilovers
Had to fit 195/45s in the end, as you say the tyre hits the coilover without a spacer, but hits the arch with a spacer, you can't winWell I went back out and had a play. I dropped the spacing down to 3mm. Still a slight rub. Took the spaces out, no rubbing at all.
Then it was just the fronts, had 5mm on there to clear the shocks, but without rolling the arches it was the outers that then were rubbing. Fitted the 3mm on the front and only on the largest of bumps is there any sort of rubbing.

And this is still with the same tyres.

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[Iain]

Hand pull the wings out a bit? Make sure it's bolted on tight and yank it.

Fronts are rolled or cut too right?

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[Iain]

Ignore that. Assuming it's rubbing the Spring not the shock, the fix for the front is shorter springs that finish above the tyre.

[NovalutionGSi]

Fronts are not touching the spring. Still have the lip on the wings so these will go at some point.

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[Iain]

What coilovers are they? Any camber adjustment on the bolts?

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[NovalutionGSi]

Gaz gold ultra lows. I do have some camber bolts from the Astra but nothing fitted on the Nova.
But they fit in at the top of the hub assembly, so adding camber would only bring the top of the tyre and wheel in towards the shock. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210418/612de6fe99f126471cbc836ce7a2f9f3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210418/8d8d88a7617f3f7a858919646a74d640.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210418/cfe1cfe1c20113feeae8344fc191fa95.jpg

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[Iain]

Gaz GHA not Gold's. Smaller body so tyre should be nowhere near the shock body itself. Definitely on the shock not spring or lower spring platform?

Not asked about hubs, brake set up or wheel offset but going to assume all normal ish.

You could use the topmounts to gain 'good' camber then eccentric Camber bolts to reduce it which would gain you shock clearance without spacers.

Or perhaps the topmounts might be enough to pull the top of the wheel in away from the arch lip.

[NovalutionGSi]

Always get that wrong. Lol.

Topmounts are stock, they were marked with a white line, took that to aim outwards to give a slight camber in.
Hubs standard. Brakes 288mm discs, plus calibra calipers.

It's more the lower spring mount that the fronts touch. The 3mm spaces have solved that.

Think the answer is to roll the front arches and then its sorted. [emoji106][emoji1787]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210418/d6be94cddc76e9b61b3e0a612ecd8989.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210418/dee846a2647c0a4245caa9ff14e38afd.jpg

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[Iain]

In that case I refer to my previous suggestion. 1 inch shorter spring and all your problems go away.

This assumes you have 1 inch thread above the current position

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[NovalutionGSi]

Comes down to cost then. Cost of shorter springs vs rolling the Arch.

Minor issues now I think.. Next project coming on now.. the engine!

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[torquey]

Thing is its rolling the arch without damage to paint ect. Cheaper to buy new springs I would of thought.

[NovalutionGSi]

Thing is its rolling the arch without damage to paint ect. Cheaper to buy new springs I would of thought.Leave it to the professionals??
To be fair the guys that did my rears didn't damage any paint.

Could always cut the lip off too, think me attaching it with a hammer wouldn't be the best option. [emoji1787][emoji1787]

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[Iain]

Cutting the lip makes it weaker. Hammer will almost definitely ruin it. Could buy an arch roll tool but better spending on the springs tbh.

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[NovalutionGSi]

Dunno, arch roller kit seem to range in price... from ?20 up to ?100.

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