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toymex
16-06-16, 09:06 PM
What with House,s thread about his shifter ,before I buy a new quaife one has anybody fitted a cable shifter to an F13 box ,if so what bits do I need and has anybody got some pics of the turret and how the cables are routed through the bulkhead ?

MARTIN KELSON
16-06-16, 09:24 PM
You seen the CAE cable shift kits they do for Nova's?
look a nice piece but pricey!

toymex
16-06-16, 09:26 PM
You seen the CAE cable shift kits they do for Nova's?
look a nice piece but pricey!
Yes I have seen them ,think I would rather put the money towards a proper sequential tbh

millworm
16-06-16, 09:31 PM
Vectra c 1.8 petrol shifter, cables and selector. Cost about £15. Had it fitted to my f13 and now my f20.

toymex
16-06-16, 09:32 PM
Vectra c 1.8 petrol shifter, cables and selector. Cost about £15. Had it fitted to my f13 and now my f20.
Great thanks ,have you any pics

prs
16-06-16, 10:07 PM
I've had an vauxhall cable shifter and now have the CAE shifter. the vauxhall cable shifter is ok, but I doubt its an improvement over your quaife shifter.. I haven't drivin with the CAE shifter but it looks real nice and solid!

novalew
17-06-16, 04:33 AM
Can a f28 be converted?

RallyMarshal
17-06-16, 07:57 AM
Im running the Vectra cable shift system in mine albeit on an F20, but the F13 uses the same selector.

Worked fine for a while but over time the weaknesses were exploited as I tend to drive the rallycar hard at times..

It now runs a custom "lift" mounting bracket with cable bulkheads welded to this and a modified 6 speed Astra H M32 cable shift bit in the car to allow it to take rosejointed ended cables
Standard gearbox selector from a Vectra C 1.8 (F17 box) although the cable end balls are replaced with threaded bar to allow the rosejoints to be bolted on (had an issue with them popping off)
Modified bracket on the gearbox side to get the cable length correct
Custom length control cables with M6 threaded ends to take rosejoints to stop the popping off issue and make the change more precise.

One thing to bear in mind is that its very direct and Im finding that Im giving the synchros a hard time.

Should be photos in my build thread..

Paul..

BRoadGhost
17-06-16, 07:58 AM
Sadly not the F28 because the selector turret that bolts onto the top of the gearbox is only interchangable with F23 & below

Stuart
17-06-16, 07:59 AM
The shifter won't really change how the synchros get abused. They are just a poor design for 3/4 but quaife use the same ones in 1/2 too :(

Mxcrazy
17-06-16, 09:49 AM
google 'synchro slick shift' and have a look at what people have done over the years. Its an old school trick mainly the americans did to aid shifting on the 1/4 mile.

You just cant shift a sychro box too fast, thats where most problems lay.

Its ok in a road car at 3000 rpm but trying to make a shift at 8000rpm, its like trying to put you hand in a propeller.

millworm
17-06-16, 11:56 AM
Great thanks ,have you any pics

Can get some in a bit but no engine in the car atm lol

RallyMarshal
17-06-16, 12:44 PM
The shifter won't really change how the synchros get abused. They are just a poor design for 3/4 but quaife use the same ones in 1/2 too :(

I disagree to an extent

Shorter throw lever and very direct gearshift on a synchro box mean theres less time for the synchros to "synch" properly compared to a longer throw lever which takes more time to shift.

Having said that, I think most of my issue is changing down to 2nd and particularly 1st when coming up to a tight chicane or similar when Im using the gears to slow down as well as the brakes and banging it into first early so I can shift my left foot onto the brake and get back on the power with the right foot.

Paul..

Stuart
17-06-16, 12:46 PM
well yeah, these short throw linkages people seem to think are important, cause loads of issues lol

Mxcrazy
17-06-16, 01:47 PM
I disagree to an extent

Shorter throw lever and very direct gearshift on a synchro box mean theres less time for the synchros to "synch" properly compared to a longer throw lever which takes more time to shift.

Having said that, I think most of my issue is changing down to 2nd and particularly 1st when coming up to a tight chicane or similar when Im using the gears to slow down as well as the brakes and banging it into first early so I can shift my left foot onto the brake and get back on the power with the right foot.

Paul..

And thats the beauty of a dog box, big 'gaps' to slam the thing into (and out of) gear.

My sccr box is just going to be used on a road legal track car, but i think if i was competing like you i'd maybe look into doing some mods to the synchros/hubs to widen the spread of teeth, removing ever other one 'should' redice the chances of missing or grinding it by 50%.

Using that propellor analogy again, a prop with 2 blades at a set rpm gives you twice as long before you get your hand cut off than a 4 blade.

Stuart
17-06-16, 02:50 PM
And thats the beauty of a dog box, big 'gaps' to slam the thing into (and out of) gear.

My sccr box is just going to be used on a road legal track car, but i think if i was competing like you i'd maybe look into doing some mods to the synchros/hubs to widen the spread of teeth, removing ever other one 'should' redice the chances of missing or grinding it by 50%.

Using that propellor analogy again, a prop with 2 blades at a set rpm gives you twice as long before you get your hand cut off than a 4 blade.


I'd be more inclined to fix the core issue that the strut keys shatter the sodding baulk ring (or synchro depending on how you name things).
I've seen that the honda lot mainly, have lovely rings made that have friction material added to the inner cones which grip the gears better and thus work better at doing their job.
Taking every other tooth off is just going to hinder the cleanlyness of the shift regardless of if its fast or slow :(

Mxcrazy
17-06-16, 04:26 PM
Sadev it is then. Haha

On another note, a customer of mine 'Cablecraft motion controls' in Hailsham, east sussex, 01323 841510, may be able to do custom cables for the cable shifters.

RallyMarshal
19-06-16, 09:53 PM
I'd be more inclined to fix the core issue that the strut keys shatter the sodding baulk ring (or synchro depending on how you name things).
I've seen that the honda lot mainly, have lovely rings made that have friction material added to the inner cones which grip the gears better and thus work better at doing their job.
Taking every other tooth off is just going to hinder the cleanlyness of the shift regardless of if its fast or slow :(

I dont mind changing the baulk rings - its the fact that the gears themselves are the parts being damaged. I also think Quaife build quality has gone downhill and the materials are softer than they used to be.

Going to see how I get on for the rest of the season as a dog box might need to be on the cards at this rate.

Paul..

Stuart
19-06-16, 10:00 PM
Sadev it is then. Haha

On another note, a customer of mine 'Cablecraft motion controls' in Hailsham, east sussex, 01323 841510 (tel:01323 841510), may be able to do custom cables for the cable shifters.


I pi used them a few years ago when they were tuthill, the vx220 cables were £250+vat and 3 months lead from gm (each), got both from tuthill in a new an improved setup for about £100 lol can't recommend them enough