Wide arch, wide track, z18xe on bodies...

[Mxcrazy]

Ive been a bit of a lurker around here for 6-8 Months, keeping an eye on things and researching/asking questions.

I have a build planned, when i say planned, its not really started yet, just early stages, but I have gathered a lot of stuff already.

This whole Nova thing started with me buying a complete car off a friend. It was reasonably spec'd.

c14se on 40 webers, a cam (270) and pulley, making 120bhp @ Fly.
Quaife f13 sccr gear kit, 4.5:1 final drive
tran-x diff
quaife quick rack
compomotive mo's
6 point cage
carbin fibre Corbeau seats
Luke harnesses
fibreglass bonnet
spax suspension
solid engine mounts
256 brakes
gsi front bumper
and various other parts.
I have a folder of reciepts for over 10k spent on it, 1900 of that on the bare engine, webers not included.

I paid a reasonable, but fair amount for it knowing the shell was a bit tatty.

Forward on a few weeks and I had a good look around the shell and it was a complete turd, fit only for the scrap yard. So it go stripped of all its good bits and bye bye shell.

I have since sourced a nice clean straight shell. This will be stitch welded, strengthened and lightened.

I have poly windows, fibreglass skinned door and looking in to a fg bootlid.

I also have a fibreglass wide arch kit and skirts to go on.

To compliment that I have a superfwd wide track kit to go on it.

Suspension wise it will be running Bilstein B14 coilovers, eccentric top mounts and a braced rear beam.

Other parts sourced or for sourcing include;

Quaife internal shifter
extended steering column and corsa epas
hydraulic hand brake
floor mounted pedal box

The gearbox is having a 3.933:1 final drive fitted, new genuine synchros and a Quaife ATB diff.

The engine is going to be changed to a z18xe

It will be running z18xer vvt rods, pistons, valves and solid buckets. A decompression plate to get the deck height back to where it should be as the vvt pistons are slightly taller (approx 1.3mm)
A ported head and Piper bp285 cams, piper pulleys, and Piper corsa vxr valve springs.
R1 throttle bodies on a custom manifold, with the intension to run a variable length intake tract.
Emerald management.
Tony Law full exhaust system.

Thats the basics, I will try and set up a photobucket account and get some pics up as and when things happen.

Cheers.

[novarally]

Sounds good, look forward to seeing this.

[Mxcrazy]

The aim like all these things is to keep weight down whilst not being dangerous. Some weight has to go in, but I want to keep as much off as possible, whilst keeing it road legal too.

Its going to cost me a fortune, for a road legal trackncar, but hey ho, its all part of the fun.

[totalnova]

If you need any help with the conversion just drop me a pm, engine wise I'm doing very similar also using the z18xer pistons but I started with a x18xe1 same engine when stripped as the z18xe I'm also using bodies.
Nick

[totalnova]

Where a bouts are you located? Oh and get some pics up

[Mxcrazy]

Where a bouts are you located? Oh and get some pics up

East Sussex mate. I need to get some pics and sort a photobucket account at some point.

Are you aware of the dimension differences between the xe and xer pistons?

[totalnova]

Yes the Xer Pistons sit proud of the Deck, my engine builder is working out compression ratios at the moment, once we know that we will work out if we will machine the Pistons or use a thicker head gasket. Do you know what way your going to go?

[Plug]

This is going to be my twin by the sounds of it bar the engine!

get photobucket sorted I'd like to see this!

[Mxcrazy]

Yes the Xer Pistons sit proud of the Deck, my engine builder is working out compression ratios at the moment, once we know that we will work out if we will machine the Pistons or use a thicker head gasket. Do you know what way your going to go?

I am going decompression plate, then measuring valve to piston clearance with my cams, and will skim the head to suit both the valve/piston clearance and compression.

The beauty of the xer pistons are the valve cut outs, if you machine off the top face you'll have to likely cut the valve cut outs again, thats lots of work/hassle.

[Mxcrazy]

Well, dummy built the engine with cams in and xer pistons/rods, Getting over 4mm of valve to piston clearance at tdc and 10 degrees either side so thats promising. These are pipe bp285 to suit x14xe/x16xe, so i dare say that longer duration/higher lift cams will fit with room to spare. This is With the 1.4mm thick decompression plate and I am getting a piston to head clearance of 1.1mm (calculated, as getting 0.8 with decomp plate and no head gasket, old head gasket is 0.3mm thick compressed). 1.1mm clearance isnt bad, but i can tighten it. I will look in to having 0.2 skimmed off the head, if i need it, for compression.

I need to measure the combustion chamber volume etc.

[Iain]

Sounds cracking thanks for posting the plans, need more track Novas on here, used to be loads and now there's a handful of active ones.

Engine plans sound good, what's the 3.9 FD from? Daewoo?

In some ways it's better you build it into a new shell, you can do weightsaving tweaks along the way and know it's all done to a standard you're happy with.

[Mxcrazy]

Sounds cracking thanks for posting the plans, need more track Novas on here, used to be loads and now there's a handful of active ones.

Engine plans sound good, what's the 3.9 FD from? Daewoo?

In some ways it's better you build it into a new shell, you can do weightsaving tweaks along the way and know it's all done to a standard you're happy with.


The old shell would probably be lighter, lots of holes in it....

The final drive is from Quaife. Its a fixed pinion gear kit. Expected top speed @ redline will be nigh on 130mph. I hope thats enough!

[Iain]

That should be fine, I don't max out down the main straight at Snetterton (longest straight I've driven) with a Quaife 4.2 and 170-180bhp (forgotten how much lol)

[totalnova]

Where did you get the decompression plate from?

[Mxcrazy]

Ferriday engineering, its the 1.4-1.5mm thick material. Email them, Mike knows his stuff.

I kind of over looked the fact that skimming the head wont change my quench/squish measurments, but 1.1mm is suitable anyway as the quench pads are minimal in the combustion chamber anyway so negligable effects. However, skimming the head will increase compression if needed at the expense of closing the valve to piston clearance. I need to cc the combustion chamber and work out where i am and what i want if it's not suitable. Id like 11.5-12:1.

[totalnova]

Thanks very much, I had seen that company before, did you get an aluminum one? Oh do you mind me asking how much it cost?

[Mxcrazy]

Yes aluminium, can be re-used just needing 1 OEM style head gasket like normal. About £105 sir, worth it in my mind. Allows the use of the better pistons that dont need machining, with higher compression and the xer rods which are the same as the corsa vxr, they run those things up to 250-260bhp and 8000rpm....

[totalnova]

Yes that's my thinking exactly, think I'll get one ordered up, cheers.
Nick

[Mxcrazy]

Whats the rest of your spec going to be then?

[totalnova]

I've got high lift cams, vernier pulleys, I'm using gsxr throttle bodies and I've had an inlet manifold made to suit, the head is going to be ported soon and I'll be getting a John Ashley exhaust manifold. That's as far as I'm taking it....... For now

[Mxcrazy]

I've got high lift cams, vernier pulleys, I'm using gsxr throttle bodies and I've had an inlet manifold made to suit, the head is going to be ported soon and I'll be getting a John Ashley exhaust manifold. That's as far as I'm taking it....... For now

Not too dissimilar to mine then really. What cams are you going for? Also what engine management?

Exhaust system wise id personally look for something like an x14xe or x16xe 4-2-1 system. It will help with torque (4-2-1), the lower bolt holes just need some fettling and they dont sit so low to the ground generally. Use an x16xe sump and shortened pick up pipe. The Ashley exhausts are quite generic and just 4-1 unless you get a custom one.

I will be porting my head myself, concentrating on the short side radius in the ports and the valve shrouding.

[Mxcrazy]

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_8.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_8.jpeg.html)

Just seeing if this works, this was the car I bought that had goodies on it already. The body however was rotten as a turd.

[Iain]

Pic works, looked so tidy as well.

[Mxcrazy]

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_5.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_5.jpeg.html)

the new shell

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image.jpeg.html)

dummy building of 1800 16v lump

There will be more as i go and get more pics of bits and bobs also.

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_2.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_2.jpeg.html) The decomp plate

[CorsaTR2p]

wow, c14se with 120bhp? Only have cam 270º and carburator?

Nice car, have a good look.

Regards.

[Mxcrazy]

Pic works, looked so tidy as well.

Looks can certainly be deceiving!

[Mxcrazy]

wow, c14se with 120bhp? Only have cam 270º and carburator?

Nice car, have a good look.

Regards.

120bhp flywheel and 100bhp at wheels. Webers 40's, custom maniflow exhaust manifold, ported head, i 'think' it is just a 270 cam. Makes maximum power at just under 7000 rpm.

[Mxcrazy]

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_9.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_9.jpeg.html)

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_10.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_10.jpeg.html)

Got the old girl loaded up last night and moved from the garden to my mates workshop and pushed in next to his Nova (which was mine, that i have given him in return for use of the workshop).

Now things can get started, slowly. My girlfriend is a paramedic (and i am massively proud of her too) so her work hours are pretty shit. It does however leave me evenings and weekends on accasion to get in the workshop.

The next stage is to get the suspension stripped out and get it up on the spit, and get stripping. I want to remove all of the underseal and check this shell is as clean as i hope. All the usual areas are mint.

[Mxcrazy]

Oh, and the door looks worse than it is because of the light and paint/primer finish on it. Its not actually too bad. Fibreglass skin on metal frame, its quite solid and shouldnt flap about in the wind.

[Mxcrazy]

Spent a couple of evenings on my own in the workshop getting it stripped back. Pulled all the glass out, all the panels, rubbers, dash, pedal box and head lining. Started pulling the loom out too.

The spit my mate made is too tall so needs modifying a bit but nothing the welder wont sort out. Found a few bits that have been patched up but no biggies, mainly on lower front inner arches. These will be being cut and extended anyway for the wide arch kit.

I have the labourious task of scraping all the seam sealer out the inside of the car and the under seal off the bottom and the arches too. I want to basically check the whole thing for any scabs (found some minor ones, caught them early so no problems) and stitch weld the whole thing and weld in the strengthening plates.

I dont want to cut any corners, though this is just going to be a road legal track car i want the prep to be motorsport worthy.

[Mxcrazy]

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image.jpg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image.jpg.html)

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_11.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_11.jpeg.html)

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_12.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_12.jpeg.html)

[totalnova]

Looking good.

[CorsaTR2p]

good process.

[Mxcrazy]

The horrible box section seat mounts are coming out. I have some pucker tube and mounts with captive nuts to go in. The seat is being pushed back towards the B pillar anyway so they had to be moved. I am running a floor mounted pedal box and an extended steering column. The hand brake needs to be relocated too as the Quaife internal shifter will need to sit about there anyway.

I am pondering on single skinning the top of the car. Cutting out the inner skins from the b pillars, the inner rear arches, along the roof line and c pillars etc. It will be caged either way, if i stitch what is left to the cage that'll kee it pretty rigid. Otherwise its just holding the roof skin on to stop me getting wet....

[Mxcrazy]

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_15.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_15.jpeg.html)

Slow on the Nova front over the last few weeks, not done anything. I have however got my intake manifold flange back from a mate/machinist so I can look in to that shortly, its got to have custom runners making. They are a bit difficult as i am going from round throttle bodies (R1) to sightly triangular ovals on the head (the manifold plate needs hand porting), the runners also need to be tapered, (smaller at throttle body end ) then the oval section forming, with the same circumference an oval has a smaller cross sectional area than a circle. The tubing I have sourced gives the correct cross sectional area for the intake port oval shape, but is over sized for the throttle bodies. I am going to cut the tube length wise with some shallow angle triangles and re-weld it to give the tube taper when its circular, then form the oval end using a home made die and a press.

The idea of all that is to keep the existing taper of the throttle bodies from front to back, continue down the runners into the port and have no sizeable steps along the whole intake tract. Tricky stuff but worth getting right for maximising power potential. Intake tract length has to be factored in yet too. I do have the workings on that but not on me at the moment.


The other interesting thing, which may take this project a different direction, is i have found a semi space framed shell, with a complete fibreglass bodyshell from the a pillars back and sills up. I am working on getting hold of this, if i do it should form the base or template for a car that'll weigh under 600kgs in road legal form.

[Mxcrazy]

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_17.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_17.jpeg.html)

Got my new inlet manifold flange bolted in place and drilled the plate and the head to take some dowels so it has a positive placement so when it is hand port matched it will all line up nice. Also cleaned and blasted the rocker cover and gave it a coat of alloy wheel silver, that is likely to change colour but i was bored and its all i had.

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_19.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_19.jpeg.html)

I also had a look at my throttle bodies, they are 2013+ R1, i wanted to keep the yamaha air box but it weighs a ton. I cant fit a regular filter back plate due to the shape of where the trumpets bolt to the bodies. So i got the grinder/dremel out and cleaned up the outside of the trumpets of some clutter and made a (half) template to make a back plate to bond/bolt/rivet to the back of the trumpet flair.

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_18.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_18.jpeg.html)

I also made a start on my z18xer (also Corsa vxr) rods. I started by draw filing the 'meat' of the protrusion down, then using the dremel with a sanding drum. Then hand sanding in grades to get the finish as seen. All work is done lengthways. I have ordered some small flap wheels to speed the process up for the next ones. These will all be balanced as best as possible and weight matched (along with the pistons) to 1/2 a gram and ARP's fitted. Its a labourious but satisfying job.

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_16.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_16.jpeg.html)

My aim with all of this is to do as much work as i possibly can, its all a learning curve for me (first car engine build). So all the conrod polishing/lightening i am doing, the piston weight matching, the cylinder head porting, the inlet manifold runner fabrication etc. The build to me is as interesying as the outcome.

[Novarally140016v]

Hi Ollie,

Nice work, have you found a company to fit the gudgeon pin to your new pistons?

Or are you intending adding a circlip groove to the pistons and use bronze small end bushes?

[Mxcrazy]

Hi Ollie,

Nice work, have you found a company to fit the gudgeon pin to your new pistons?

Or are you intending adding a circlip groove to the pistons and use bronze small end bushes?

Theyre circlip grooved as stock so nice and easy.

[Mxcrazy]

Had a change of heart on cam profile, as i have solid lifters and loads of room (from dummy building) i am going to go a bit more extreme and swapping my piper 285 ultimate road cams (264 duration 10mm lift) for some piper bp300m cams (290, 11.56 inlet, 280, 10.67 exhaust).

This set up and using the Corsa VXR valves and rods, piper VXR springs and a 7800-8000 rev limit. (Several corsa vxr's running to 8000 rpm on the same rods, valves and springs) should hopefully see me over the 200bhp mark.

[RallyMarshal]

Had a change of heart on cam profile, as i have solid lifters and loads of room (from dummy building) i am going to go a bit more extreme and swapping my piper 285 ultimate road cams (264 duration 10mm lift) for some piper bp300m cams (290, 11.56 inlet, 280, 10.67 exhaust).

This set up and using the Corsa VXR valves and rods, piper VXR springs and a 7800-8000 rev limit. (Several corsa vxr's running to 8000 rpm on the same rods, valves and springs) should hopefully see me over the 200bhp mark.

My new 1600 16v is running a BP300m. Hopefully being mapped end of next week so will let you see the numbers..

Paul..

[Novarally140016v]

My new 1600 16v is running a BP300m. Hopefully being mapped end of next week so will let you see the numbers..

Paul..

1600 16v? are you moving out of the 1400 class or is this in the gravel car?

[Mxcrazy]

My new 1600 16v is running a BP300m. Hopefully being mapped end of next week so will let you see the numbers..

Paul..

Superb, i'll be interested to see. Whats the rest of the spec on the engine?

It'll be interesting to see how a 1600 and 1800 compare on the same cams.

What are you hoping for realistically?

[Mxcrazy]

Cam belt idlers and tensioning has been a bit of a head scratcher.

The z18xe cambelt kit i bought had 1 plastic idler, 1 metal idler and an auto tensioner.

I have purchased another of the metal idlers to do away with the plastic one, and bought a 1400 16v water pump, which is like the 8v water pumps and can be rotated to tension the belt. (The z18xe pump cant be rotated without surgery, and doesnt have flats for a spanner either)

Because i have a plate between the head and block the belt is a little short to use the auto tensioner, so i have lobbed that away and will use the 1400 16v water pump to tension the belt. This should give a reliable system.

Its a bit of a hybrid now this motor.

z18xe block, crank and head.
z18xer pistons, rods, valves and solid buckets.
x14xe water pump
x14/16xe piper cams and pulleys.
z16ler (Corsa vxr) valve springs and caps.
KAD, Kent Auto developments 5mm lash caps.
x16xe sump
x14/16xe modified Tony Law exhaust system
custom inlet manifold and r1 throttle bodies.

I have quite a bit of work to do on the exhaust ports to match the manifold, but the port is a weird shape anyway, it has a good shape and volume right up until it exits the head where it curves in at the edges, as if it was purposely restricted. The work i have to do there to match the manifold will give the port a nice gentle taper and uninterupted flow in to the manifold.

My aim is a genuine 200bhp, but more may be unleashed, its all a bit unknown with these engines. 1400/1600's have been done so many times, and we know certain set ups create certain sorts of power output.

As far as i am aware, this 'build' hasnt been done. Not using xer parts anyway.

I have not touched my shell in months, been doing more on the motor than anything. The gearbox also needs a coat of looking at and building back up with the 3.9 Quaife final drive.

[RallyMarshal]

1600 16v? are you moving out of the 1400 class or is this in the gravel car?

Hi Chris - the "tarmac" car I used at Rockingham is 2000cc - the gravel car has been 1400 8v since built and is now becoming a 1600 16v..


Superb, i'll be interested to see. Whats the rest of the spec on the engine?

It'll be interesting to see how a 1600 and 1800 compare on the same cams.

What are you hoping for realistically?

Im thinking a drivable 170-180bhp. Its got the right bits and might even make a bit more but its not finished yet and its first event is in 10 days time so getting it finished is the priority!

Paul..

[Mxcrazy]

Hi Chris - the "tarmac" car I used at Rockingham is 2000cc - the gravel car has been 1400 8v since built and is now becoming a 1600 16v..



Im thinking a drivable 170-180bhp. Its got the right bits and might even make a bit more but its not finished yet and its first event is in 10 days time so getting it finished is the priority!

Paul..

I look forward to the results of this. Good luck.

[Mxcrazy]

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_20.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_20.jpeg.html)y

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_21.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_21.jpeg.html)

Got my piper bp300m cams and dummy built the engine to see what piston to valve clearance i got.

Happy to report that after manually measuring and backing up with clay that i have 2.6mm on the inlet and 3.8mm on the exhaust.

This means i can safely take 0.3mm off the block to decrease the quench clearance down to 1-1.1mm, and also gives me atleast 0.7mm to skim the head by if i need it to bump compression more. The 0.3mm might be all i need and quench clearance is often over looked. Being a 2 stroke man for many years i have a good appreciation for squish/quench.

I need to cc everything up and work out my compression ratio and what i need or not. I would like at least 11.5:1, but if i can go higher, i will. With the cams i am using dynamic compression will lack slightly so i can afford to go up to maybe 12:1, possibly 12.5:1 at a later date if i feel like it.

[Mxcrazy]

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_22.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_22.jpeg.html)

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_23.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_23.jpeg.html)

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_24.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_24.jpeg.html)

Got the porting stick out tonight and made a start on the ports.

This 1800 intake port is beautiful. There is little to do to it really. You can see where i have pulled quite a bit of material on the top side of the port, and blended this back in to it. This is to suit my manifold runner tubes and the taper from the 45mm R1 throttle bodies.

Otherwise the port needs little work, a small clean up on the short side radius and a smooth just in from the valve seat, as well as shamfering/radius-ing the valve seat in to the port.

The exhaust port is getting a bit more work, the short side radius needs some re-shaping and smoothing and the very last 5mm or so before the port meets the manifold needs opening about 1.5mm on both ends and the upper side to suit my manifold better. (The port hooks in on the last 5mm or so, so the port contour is followed as stock)

The devider/bridge is a bit of a funny shape so that is getting rounded off (not knife edged, will increase port volume too much) and the seat needs some blending in to the port.

I have also lapped all 16 valves to check the valves and seats and all are good. I just have to stay away from the faces of the seats when porting or it could all go wrong.

[Mxcrazy]

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_25.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_25.jpeg.html)

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_1.jpg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_1.jpg.html)

Treated myself to some new proper cartridge rolls to help speed things up a little, as bad as it sounds, all the heads I have done before (mainly single cylinder motocross stuff, but including a couple of cars and some sports bikes) I have just used several dremel type tools with carbide burrs and regular sanding drums, as well as hand sanding.

I have now got an air die grinder so i bought a Garryson 6mm shank 12mm head burr to help material removal speed.

I also got some 'buffs', genuine dremel ones. The ones i have had for year are a little 2nd hand now, but i cant find the same ones again so had to fork out for the dremel ones. I have another 21 coming from china though to try them. They are more for finishing the exhaust ports and the chamber once i start work on them. The intakes will have a rough sanded finish and the exhausts and chambers will have a smoother more polished finish.

Below gives a rough idea of the exhaust port finish but that was done quickly for picture purposes, it all needs hand sanding more and then the buffs using from medium to fine finish, and then maybe a proper polish with the mops.

As with any work like this, its the shape that really make ms the differences and less so the finish, but every little helps.

The outside of the exhaust port looks a bit of a funny shape, it needs a little fettling but it actually matches my Tony law manifold shape really quite well. Though it is about 1mm small than the bore of the headers. There are different trains of thought with either going 'matched' or 'stepped' but the guy that has advised me swears by using a slight step into the exhaust when using longer duration cams to help with scavenging on over lap.


http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_27.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_27.jpeg.html)

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_26.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_26.jpeg.html)

[Mxcrazy]

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_28.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_28.jpeg.html)

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_30.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_30.jpeg.html)

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_29.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_29.jpeg.html)

Nothing much to report, done some more porting work on the head, and also started sorting bits out for my inlet manifold, forming the tubes is pretty difficult and getting the lengths and angles right is a right pain in the arse, but pretty much there now.

The R1 bodies had a load of crap on them i didnt need so i gutted them and cut off useless parts. I want to keep the servo motor for actuating the variable length intake tract, so i made up a bracket to house it.

I have also made a cardboard template for my filter back plate as this will
have to be custom to fit the R1 bodies.

I have also been looking at pistons for the Z18xe engine. The closest i can find are 1800 k series high comp pistons, and also Hayabusa high comp pistons.

I am not sure i can stretch another 450/500 quid in to those right now though.

I am thinking maybe i'll build this engine as i intend to, and maybe at a later date build another bottom end then swap my head and everything else on to it if i want to chase more power.

The aim is still 200bhp with z18xer pistons. I may be able to gain a little with some proper high compression pistons, it depends where i get with the xer slugs.

I say walk before i can run for now.

[totalnova]

All looks very good. The main problem with the z18xe/x18xe1 as you know is piston availability, as it's not an engine that is used in motorsport it's not really catered for. I'm hoping as it gets a little more popular that somebody will develop some high comp pistons, but I won't hold my breath.
Nick

[Iain]

La de da someone knows what they're doing don't they! Looks great

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

[Mxcrazy]

All looks very good. The main problem with the z18xe/x18xe1 as you know is piston availability, as it's not an engine that is used in motorsport it's not really catered for. I'm hoping as it gets a little more popular that somebody will develop some high comp pistons, but I won't hold my breath.
Nick

The k/series ones are close, very close, and they do them (Wossner) in 80.5mm bore. Pin to crown height is slightly lower so block would need to be decked. My quirie is with the valve cut outs, the angle and size. I have requested the technical specs/drawings from wossner but im not sure they'll come up with anything.

[Mxcrazy]

La de da someone knows what they're doing don't they! Looks great

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

Not really! This is all new to me, I have ported a few heads before, but before this engine i'd never messed with car engines.

I just think f*ck it, i'll have a go at that. If i had access to a tig welder i'd have a go at welding the manifold too, but i havent.

I just research, tinker, and try things. Lady luck is half of it.

I never knew i could use the XER valves in the XE head, so i just tried it, that meant the XER solid lifters would fit, etc etc. Just got to try stuff.

[Mxcrazy]

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_32.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_32.jpeg.html)

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_33.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_33.jpeg.html)

Done even more on the head, all the exhaust ports are now shaped and finished and i am happy with them.

The intake ports are 95% of the way there. I just have some fine work to blend the port into the valve seats, and give them a once over for a uniform finish.

As far as the chambers go, I sought some advice and have been advised to leave them alone. I was going to smooth and polish the chambers and try and un-shroud the valves at the points closest to the cylinder walls. This would be futile however as there is no material to move without under cutting and i need to keep as much material as possible to keep the compression up.

If i went to an 82mm bore with high compression pistons then there would be room for improvement, but for now it will be left.

[Mxcrazy]

Made some more progress, I have pictures but photo bucket is being a tw*t at the moment. Think its been hacked or something!

I have got my custom inlet manifold all together. I decided to do it my way, rather than having it tig welded, i decided to have a go at aluminium brazing it myself. Is hard work, but satisfying at the same time, it means i could align everything how i want it rather than relying on someone elses interpretations.

Its come out pretty good, i have some cleaning up to do and a bit of work with the die grinder to match everything up but over all i am pleased.

In total the manifold has cost me about £50 and i have the satisfaction of calling it (almost) all my own work.

Thats the thing with this whole car, if i can do it myself, i will do it myself. It probably means for a longer project, but ultimately its as much about building it, as it is the final product.

[Mxcrazy]

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_36.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_36.jpeg.html)

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_37.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_37.jpeg.html)

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_35.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_35.jpeg.html)

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_39.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_39.jpeg.html)

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_40.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_40.jpeg.html)

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_41.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_41.jpeg.html)

As promised, some pics of the inlet manifold i have made. Came out pretty good. Did some distruction testing which i disnt picture on the aluminium brazing. It really is strong stuff.

As you can see i have got some jubilee clips and the silicone hose joiners on. They have made a really nice secure fitting with no movement. I would have prefered different clips (mikalore) but they are too wide.

I will make a custom PTFE gasket to go between the manifold and the head. This will act as a thermal barrier.

Also been making more progress with the head. I now have some lash caps and also washers/spacers for the valve springs to get the installed heights correct.

I got a billy bargain from Greece also, a set of genuine ARP rod bolts for £36, so happy with that.

I have been looking in to supertech valves, but at £450 a set its a big amount of money. Money that can be better spent elsewhere yet.

If i do a 2nd incarnation of the engine at a later date (need to do the first one yet) It will be aftermarket rods, forged high comp pistons, supertech valves and 9000 RPM. That'll be £1500 in basic parts alone.

[toymex]

Are the super tech valves a 5 mm stem ,if so have you got a link for them ,I did look into having some made but costs proved prohibitive , you are doing a great job btw

[Mxcrazy]

Are the super tech valves a 5 mm stem ,if so have you got a link for them ,I did look into having some made but costs proved prohibitive , you are doing a great job btw

https://www.supertechperformance.com/s6689-opel-vauxhall-engine-valves?m=5909&ec=31466&em=19179

yes 5mm stem, they are z16ler/let (_Corsa vxr) or z18xer fitment. Head to collect groove distance is different to regular z18xe valves, and they are 13 ish mm longer for use with solid buckets (as stock).

I am having to shim/space by valve springs around 4mm, and using lash caps around 2.8mm thick to get the desired 0.30mm clearance. The base circle on my cams is only 34mm though (the previous cams were 37mm base circle, made lash caps super difficult to get hold of).

[Mxcrazy]

There are also Ferrea valves offered by drakos engineering (drakosengineering) on facebook. They are cheaper for sure but 3 groove collets i believe, the supertech are single groove.

[toymex]

There are also Ferrea valves offered by drakos engineering (drakosengineering) on facebook. They are cheaper for sure but 3 groove collets i believe, the supertech are single groove.


I would not not want to use that thin a stem with 3 groove collets, I spoke to Paul Ivey about having some made but I needed to get about 10 sets to get the costs down ,I even had them draw them up but just couldn't justify the cost

[Mxcrazy]

Do you use a z18xe head then?

The ferrea valves claim a 20% increase in strength.

There are quite a few people running 8000rpm on stock valves in the vxr motors....

[toymex]

Do you use a z18xe head then?

The ferrea valves claim a 20% increase in strength.

There are quite a few people running 8000rpm on stock valves in the vxr motors....

The engine is on the back burner ATM as I couldn't get the valves ,we were looking to use the crank ,I have rods and forged Pistons ( k series)but use my 1600 head , as it's a race car it lives most of its life at 8 k+ so wouldn't use the standard valves

[Mxcrazy]

Using the k series pistons on Vauxhall rods? That is what i have been looking at doing. Just wandering about the valve cut out angle and orientation.

The z18xe head is good port wise but uses a huge combustion chamber compared to the 1600 head as you'll know.

sounds like the supertech vakves may be the way to go for you.

[Mxcrazy]

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_42.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_42.jpeg.html)

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_43.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_43.jpeg.html)

I decided to make a brace for the throttle bodies. Relying on the silicone and jubilee clips alone would be silly. I had planned a different sort of brace, but i had some m6 rod ends in stock, a drill, a saw, and some time so I knocked that up quick.

I also decided a long time ago that i wanted a ptfe manifold to head gasket. Because the port shape is so different to stock the oem gasket was nigh on useless anyway.

I bought a piece or ptfe from ebay 400 x 100 x 3mm, i knocked that up in about 25-30 minutes, it is doweled just like the manifold to keep everything in line. I just used basic tools, drill, file, wood saw, and the die grinder with a carbide burr to start (eats through it verrrry quickly) and a 40 grit sanding piece. I matked it out super precisely, using the oem gasket and a permanent marker. I drilled 8.5mm holes for the 8mm studs and it was spot on first time. Haha

[BRoadGhost]

Port shape looks really quite good

[Mxcrazy]

Port shape looks really quite good

It lends its self very well to being made that shape. The contours are there already basically to follow.

[Mxcrazy]

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_44.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_44.jpeg.html)

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_46.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_46.jpeg.html)

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx167/GTI6mxcrazy/Mobile%20Uploads/image_45.jpeg (http://s752.photobucket.com/user/GTI6mxcrazy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_45.jpeg.html)

A small bit of progress. Bought an air filter and back plate from Ebay, 'Alpha' branded, its just a pipercross though, even says it on it. Bonus.

I made a cardboard template some time ago to suit my trumpets, so i transfered this on to the back plate, drilled about a thousand holes (it felt like it anyway) and got the files out. I got that dummy fitted using number plate plastic bolts. Its nice and solid though. On final fitting it will need RTV silicone sealing to provide a dirt tight fit the the trumpets.

Whilst working on the throttle bodies still, I got my new injectors (from a 2.4 litre Toyota petrol engine) and had a look at fitting them. They match the throttle bodies and the fuel rail fittings but are too long for stock bolts. The stock bolts are m5 with a 6.8mm shank. I couldnt find anything longer with those dimensions, so i drilled and tapped the throttle bodies to M6, drilled the fuel rail holes to 8mm and ordered some m6 x 40 shoulder bolts off ebay, with an 8mm shoulder diameter. The fit now is solid as a rock, i just need to find some better washers to space them (rather than fibre washers, though they are more than sufficient).

The injectors are rated at 310cc at 3 bar, i need 330-360cc calculated, they are being sent off for cleaning/refurb and flow testing at 3.5 and 4 bar. I have calculated that 3.5 bar should give me 337cc and 4 bar 360cc so i want that confirming.

I also have a new oil pump, block core plugs, a 1600 sump and a few other bits.

I have been looking at the gearbox too, i cleaned and blasted an F17 casing and have been on to Royce transmissions to sort the bearings, seals and gaskets to fit my Quaife gear kit in there. I have all new synchros and new circlips, washers, detent springs etc for the gearbox. It will be as new/refurbed as it possibly can be.

I am on the look out for a lightened flywheel, and if not, i will use my small flywheel and modify the block and/or starter motor to suit that. Once i have confirmed the flywheel, i need a clutch, and once that is in my possesion the flywheel/clutch/crank will go to Julian Godfrey engineering for balancing.

Its getting there slowly, but positively.

There are still lots of things to do, like polish and lighten 2 more rods, properly dummy build the head and check valve speing installed heights. Once thats done it can be sent for skimming, and the block for decking.

[Mxcrazy]

Testing to see whats tapatalk is like. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160929/1071aa1193fd42702d7fedd25669de01.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[totalnova]

Are you removing the scuttle panel in the bay?

[Mxcrazy]

Are you removing the scuttle panel in the bay?

Yes for sure. Even still i am guessing a bit at fitment. I will bridge that gap when i get there though. I offset the filter lower because of the variable length intake tract, but i am thinking that may be a mistake. If i need to buy and re-do a filter back plate its the least of my worries really.

I did look at as many z18xe converted Novas as i could as a guide so fingers crossed.

[peester]

Great work. Look forward to your progress. X16XE sump onto Z18XE block that I did/had done was quite a bit of work : - the inner baffles/pieces have to be cut/modified to lower the top crank scraper further down in the sump as it catches on the crank counter weights. Also the drain ports/holes in the block need narrowing as they exit onto the sump face beyond the gasket. Shortened oil pickup pipe also. I additionally had about 3/4"-1" of the bottom of the x16xe sump cut off and flattened for more ground clearance. By then it was probably so warped it was a struggle to get it to seal staying leak free. I did get about 2 years leak free use by using 3 bond 1215, in addition to the rubber o-ring gasket. If I was keeping the car I would get the sump face machined flatter to take any waviness out and get a surface finish that provides a better ground for the bond to cling to.
Also not all x16xe sumps were the same - some had fewer baffles inside, for some reason. I have part numbers somewhere.

Edit: What gearbox ratio/fd are you using? Will you lighten and balance the engine & gearbox before fitting? I should have done on my ITB'd Z18XE: I used a Helix 4 paddle Cerametallic (?) clutch and a lightened and balanced GM 1600 8 valve flat flywheel bolted up (with arp's) to an F15CR gearbox with 3.94fd and the thing ripped through to the rev limiter (7,000) more than it was going up the road. Too light weight, too close ratio: scrubbed lots of speed off, on lift off and between changes. Only funny/advantage with it was its top/5th gear performance: pulling like a train from such low revs, 5th gear at 40mph was like it was in 3rd, without changing up or down it would soon be heading for the redline/top speed, power delivery tailing off further up the rev range though of course.

[Mxcrazy]

Great work. Look forward to your progress. X16XE sump onto Z18XE block that I did/had done was quite a bit of work : - the inner baffles/pieces have to be cut/modified to lower the top crank scraper further down in the sump as it catches on the crank counter weights. Also the drain ports/holes in the block need narrowing as they exit onto the sump face beyond the gasket. Shortened oil pickup pipe also. I additionally had about 3/4"-1" of the bottom of the x16xe sump cut off and flattened for more ground clearance. By then it was probably so warped it was a struggle to get it to seal staying leak free. I did get about 2 years leak free use by using 3 bond 1215, in addition to the rubber o-ring gasket. If I was keeping the car I would get the sump face machined flatter to take any waviness out and get a surface finish that provides a better ground for the bond to cling to.
Also not all x16xe sumps were the same - some had fewer baffles inside, for some reason. I have part numbers somewhere.

Edit: What gearbox ratio/fd are you using? Will you lighten and balance the engine & gearbox before fitting? I should have done on my ITB'd Z18XE: I used a Helix 4 paddle Cerametallic (?) clutch and a lightened and balanced GM 1600 8 valve flat flywheel bolted up (with arp's) to an F15CR gearbox with 3.94fd and the thing ripped through to the rev limiter (7,000) more than it was going up the road. Too light weight, too close ratio: scrubbed lots of speed off, on lift off and between changes. Only funny/advantage with it was its top/5th gear performance: pulling like a train from such low revs, 5th gear at 40mph was like it was in 3rd, without changing up or down it would soon be heading for the redline/top speed, power delivery tailing off further up the rev range though of course.

I have not offered the sump up yet, shouldnt be too much of a stress, if in doubt i'll cut the oem one down and reweld it.

The box is a quaife sccr with a 3.9 f/d, i am aiming for an 8k rev limiter. It should be pretty responsive.

[8valve-craig]

Any pics of the wide arch / wide track?

[Mxcrazy]

Any pics of the wide arch / wide track?

Nothing at the moment, i have it all, the fibreglass is all on top of my mates office in his workshop where the shell is, and the wide track kit is all boxed up in the garage roof. Concentrating on the engine for now. Once that is done (atleast all bolted together) i'll move on to the shell.

[_Tomiboy]

Hi,
This is my setup. Astra MK5 driveshafts, big block hubs, 42mm longer control arm, modified from original. Adjustable top mounts for wide track.
http://www.kepfeltoltes.eu/images/497corsa_toronycsapagy_pa.jpg (http://http://www.kepfeltoltes.eu/images/497corsa_toronycsapagy_pa.jpg)
http://www.kepfeltoltes.eu/images/177csapagytarto_page_001_tn.jpg (http://www.kepfeltoltes.eu/view.php?filename=177csapagytarto_page_001.jpg)
http://www.kepfeltoltes.eu/images/947tarto1_page_001_tn.jpg (http://www.kepfeltoltes.eu/view.php?filename=947tarto1_page_001.jpg)
http://www.kepfeltoltes.eu/images/324tarto2_page_001_tn.jpg (http://www.kepfeltoltes.eu/view.php?filename=324tarto2_page_001.jpg)
http://www.kepfeltoltes.eu/images/290IMG_0906_tn.jpg (http://www.kepfeltoltes.eu/view.php?filename=290IMG_0906.jpg)
http://www.kepfeltoltes.eu/images/281IMG_0920_tn.jpg (http://www.kepfeltoltes.eu/view.php?filename=281IMG_0920.jpg)

[Mxcrazy]

Tomi, looks good. Do you work for TE? Deutsch/TE in the UK is around the corner from my work...

[_Tomiboy]

Yes, TE Deutschland. We have 99 facilities around the world. :)

[Mxcrazy]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161004/b883d2c27a7491a4cf4b32f042e4d3f0.jpg

My work station for the evening. This is a messy job, the die grinder has been out with the stones and the cartridge rolls. On to the hand sanding. Once that is done they will all be weighed and matched to the lightest one, and also end to end.

Doing that means i will have to undo some of my hand finishing but getting it right is my main priority.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Mxcrazy]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161008/bb6fee10e3a8d3c801a05629c7d31c3d.jpg Lash setting time, the intake is all done (left on pic) 12 thou or 0.305mm (0.300mm recommended)

Exhaust side is proving tricky as i had dummy built all this and calculated shim sizes and ordered 16, i have had to use some of the calculated sizes from the exhaust, in the intake.

As of this second i have 4 out of 8 on the exhaust side to tolerance, 18.49pm ish on the 8th October. Live updates!!

The other 4 that are out, i have swapped buckets and shims around to see what results i get there. Either way i think i need to swap out at least 2 lash caps. Oh well....lets see how this goes.....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Mxcrazy]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161013/cffbc5c53e4c535d9ecced85e0353011.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161013/f624667a51667ed284ca2337c416bc9d.jpg

Its not high tech but i get consistent results with it now. Random discarded bits off alli from the scrap bins at my dads work, some sink plug chains, the bearing out of a cam belt idler, some wood, bolts, screws and scale and we have a con rod end weight checker. As they sit lightest to heaviest 'ends' are 1.8g out, and over all weights are 2.4 grams out.

I will end match first around the small ends, and then total weight match them by taking material from the caps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Iain]

Looks proper. I like it

[steveboyslim]

Interested to see what power the engine makes, I did not build it, but have just supplied many parts for a 1.8 engine which is being circuit raced.
Made 220+bhp on Track 'n' Road's rollers.
Dry sumped, ported head, +1.0mm 1.6 REC valves, 1600 Colisbro guides, Piper mechanical cams, Piper double springs/steel retainers with custom spring platforms, deep locating shims, Jenvey throttle bodies, Bowyer pistons, rods and inlet manifold, SBD belt rollers and front pulley/trigger, TTV billet flywheel, Simpson manifold and system, soon to get a steel crank.
My friend did a 1400 rally version which used Corsa VXR valves, something I would not recommend, the exhaust valves failed, also the shims flip off as there is not enough location on the top of the valves.
Re did the head using similar specification as the head used on the 1.8, using the 1.4 head casting.
Also had standard rods fail even after stress relieving, snapped under the small end.

Steve

[Mxcrazy]

Interested to see what power the engine makes, I did not build it, but have just supplied many parts for a 1.8 engine which is being circuit raced.
Made 220+bhp on Track 'n' Road's rollers.
Dry sumped, ported head, +1.0mm 1.6 REC valves, 1600 Colisbro guides, Piper mechanical cams, Piper double springs/steel retainers with custom spring platforms, deep locating shims, Jenvey throttle bodies, Bowyer pistons, rods and inlet manifold, SBD belt rollers and front pulley/trigger, TTV billet flywheel, Simpson manifold and system, soon to get a steel crank.
My friend did a 1400 rally version which used Corsa VXR valves, something I would not recommend, the exhaust valves failed, also the shims flip off as there is not enough location on the top of the valves.
Re did the head using similar specification as the head used on the 1.8, using the 1.4 head casting.
Also had standard rods fail even after stress relieving, snapped under the small end.

Steve

I didnt see your reply before.

Is the engine for the corsa autotech guys? If so it looks mega.

Interesting what you say about the corsa valves, I have considered using the ferrea ones.

I have spoken to plenty of people running high power high rpm corsa engines with no problems. What sort of revs did the 1400 do? I want to cap mine at 8k max. The lash caps i am using are a lovely precision fit on the valves and reasonably deep. It'd take a fair amount to flip one off i would think.

The rods i am using are the Corsa vxr ones, they are much thicker under the small end than a regular 1800 rod, and 19mm pin.

Thanks for the info.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Mxcrazy]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161102/b94176371a169200091c110f6215f793.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161102/028550e10c63526507b0edbaa757fae5.png

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161102/a4a0b1b346e1323a9970344c6e00d792.png

Happy christmas to me, happy christmas to me. I know its a bit early, but treated myself to a light weight flywheel and a 7.25 inch clutch like pictured. Probably way over kill but i fancied one so went for it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Mxcrazy]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161107/ce6ea31b48deea818fa97133e243ec5c.png

After the above concerns and my thoughts previously. I thought sod it and ordered a set of supertech valves. I have been in contact with supertech themselves and they assure me the revs and cams I am using, i wont break them.

The intakes are 1 piece and the exhausts are incolnel 2 piece but they said they'll never break in my application. They are single groove collets too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[steveboyslim]

I didnt see your reply before.

Is the engine for the corsa autotech guys? If so it looks mega.

Interesting what you say about the corsa valves, I have considered using the ferrea ones.

I have spoken to plenty of people running high power high rpm corsa engines with no problems. What sort of revs did the 1400 do? I want to cap mine at 8k max. The lash caps i am using are a lovely precision fit on the valves and reasonably deep. It'd take a fair amount to flip one off i would think.

The rods i am using are the Corsa vxr ones, they are much thicker under the small end than a regular 1800 rod, and 19mm pin.

Thanks for the info.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did not build it but I did supply many of the parts for the Autotech car, my friend assembled the cylinder head did most of the machining and engineering, Roper Developments ported the head, the chap at Autotech did the rest.
There is more power to come from that engine.
VXR rods a to heavy, they also need ARP 625 bolts as they are smaller in diameter arp 2000 will snap, you will need to use more than 8k rpm
The shims will come off, the cam buckets and shims I supply locate on the stem of the bucket (follower) by 8mm, they do not come off.
The 1400 uses just over 8k with a rubber crank, it is in a rally car so does not spend such long periods at maximum rpm.
That flywheel will need to be balanced once the ring gear is fitted, you could of had a TTV one with integral ring gear ready balanced for less money.
The Supertech valves are not the best shape and I think are smaller than the 1600cc REC valves, (I will stand corrected) single groove collet is better though.

[Mxcrazy]

I did not build it but I did supply many of the parts for the Autotech car, my friend assembled the cylinder head did most of the machining and engineering, Roper Developments ported the head, the chap at Autotech did the rest.
There is more power to come from that engine.
VXR rods a to heavy, they also need ARP 625 bolts as they are smaller in diameter arp 2000 will snap, you will need to use more than 8k rpm
The shims will come off, the cam buckets and shims I supply locate on the stem of the bucket (follower) by 8mm, they do not come off.
The 1400 uses just over 8k with a rubber crank, it is in a rally car so does not spend such long periods at maximum rpm.
That flywheel will need to be balanced once the ring gear is fitted, you could of had a TTV one with integral ring gear ready balanced for less money.
The Supertech valves are not the best shape and I think are smaller than the 1600cc REC valves, (I will stand corrected) single groove collet is better though.

All interesting stuff, thanks for the info.

The vxr rods are about 440 grams, use m9 rod bolts.

As for the flywheel. If i could have got a TTV one for less than £20 then i would have, haha, that was an ebay bargain for sure.

The supertech valves are stock size yes. I just wanted something stronger ultimately. It was supposed to be a budget build! Lol

[Mxcrazy]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161125/3dbe65dfee8fae8b9d226c69133ddb13.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161125/bb904fb8be30fc4ddf247cb55be56746.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161125/672e760c229496489823844e79aa1fcc.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161125/93d9b90507c69ca6236475be71f3d5d3.jpg

Right, bit more progress.

Got my new valves in and lash set.

I used my dti to confirm TDC and set the timing disc. I put the head on, timed it up and adjusted the pulleys to time it up as per Pipers spec sheet.

I then measured piston to valve clearance in various positions both intake and exhaust.

Exhaust clearance was good, but intake was a bit tight (or will be once block decked and head skimmed)

I cut a spare piston in half, to check crown thickness.

I then gave a friend/engineer 5 x pistons to machine, one spare (the one now fitted to engine for dummy fitting) and the 4 pistons i want to use.

He turned them around in an afternoon for me, legend!

So, i fitted a now modified piston, re-timed the engine and got the DTi out again.

I now have over 4mm of clearance intake and exhaust, and these are pretty 'big' cams too.

It means i can deck the block (decomp plate is too thin to modify) to close the piston to head clearance for quench/squish and also skim the head to reduce chamber volume.

I need to get 12:1 static compression to give me a 9:1 dynamic ratio with these cams, that is about the limit for good pump fuel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mk1nova_rich]

Some of your work is brilliant, love the conrods especially mate

[Mxcrazy]

Some of your work is brilliant, love the conrods especially mate


Thanks mate. I have now got some steel rods on order. They'll be weighed and balanced if needed.

I have asked SBD for a price on a few bits too, slave cylinder and bearing to suit my clutch and the aluminium auxillary pulley too. If thier pulley isnt suitable i will have one made to suit. That should drop a kg or so off the rotating mass.

Once I have a pulley of some desciption sorted the crank, pulley, flywheel and clutch can go off for balancing finally.

I also have a bit more work to do in the intake ports, i need to lift the roof of the port slightly. I have run a cut above and below the 45 seat angle too bow and narrowed the seats down to 1.25mm on the intake side.

[Mxcrazy]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170120/b316290738cc9be2d791122912666b85.jpg

A little more progress. I did the lower and upper cut on the intake valve seats, 70 degree lower and 30 degree upper. This should improve low lift flow. I have also had the porting stick out again and raised then port roofs to give a better cross sectional area and shape.

I have got to do some work in the chambers, some unshrouding work around the valves and some smoothing.

The head has been skimmed and the block decked too now.

Crank, flywheel and clutch has gone off to be balanced.

Rods turned up, they have been hand finished by me, weighed and balance checked. They are within 0.5g in all plains. I broke my scales dropping a rod on the display, so waiting on some new ones to weigh and match the pistons.

The Aux pulley from SBD is expensive so I am having a custom one made to take a trigger wheel of my choice.

I have got a round nose release bearing now too, just need to sort a slave cylinder. I will either use SBD's one or have a GM one modified.

I have decided to sack off the bolt in cage (i have 2) so i am selling both and going to go for a hockly weld in one.

I have also just taken on a unit, the car was previously in my mates workshop in a corner. Now i will have my own space and closer to home too. One of my best mates had a unit 50 yards away full of tools, ramps and welding equipment too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Mxcrazy]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170223/258d6a962919184eb2a6c26ba2c4ffc2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170223/f96c1cf0e3b3ea459a1a722b6d22bfa6.jpg

No real progress, but got the car in my 'space ship' unit at last. PVA'd the floor, walls and beams to keep dust down and stapled the insulation in. Not really to insulate it, but to fill some gaps in the woodwork and improve light also.

Got my custom pulley, just over half the weight of the stock one and smaller diameter, with a 36:1 trigger wheel on the back. The photo doesnt do it justice really.

Had my rods machined, got no pics but had some 'cosworth' grooves machined on the big end thrust sides to direct oil to the small end pin and underside of piston.

Thats about it at the moment, been really lax with it.

To be fair i have been messing with my 206 gti180 thats being turned in to an autocross car for some racing. Got my MSA national B license all sorted too.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk