Another bloomin Rally Car build/rebuild? [Archive] - Performance Nova Group

TallDave

15-02-15, 01:09 PM

Sadly this is yet another rally car build, or should that be rebuild…

First off who am I, well apart from being old enough to know better, I’ve spent many years sat in the navigators seat of a variety of vehicles, most of them Historic Rally Cars. Volvo Amazons, Porches, Minis, MG’s, TR’s, Escorts and Lotus Cortina etc. I’ve done mostly UK road events, but have had the odd foray into Europe doing a few Retro Monte’s etc, I even got to do a few editions of the Ypres Historic Rally in the Lotus Cortina, that was a very nice car indeed, fitted with a proper twink it sounded the dogs when on song…

Now however I’ve called it a day in respect of the road rally stuff, concentrating instead on doing a few stage events as and when my drivers funds allow him to thrash the nuts off his Pug 205… The outing are a bit thin on the ground so I thought it was about time I moved over to the “nut” side of the car, oh dear…

In 2010 I bought this baby sort of by accident, looks nice doesn’t it, but if it were that nice it wouldn’t need a rebuild would it?

http://i.imgur.com/MSDVR4r.jpg
Fitted with a C20XE motor
http://i.imgur.com/9aeRIrd.jpg

Looks quite good doesn't it?

It has what is believed to be a Pilbeam cage with an additional diagonal fitted in the back to make a full cross brace, it has multi-point fittings to allow it to be bolted to the B pillars etc. However even the fitting of the cage has been bodged, as will become clear in time....

Meanwhile the shell has proved to be the usual bag of ****e as will become clear...

Initially I had to build a car port down the side of my house to protect it from the elements, then came a full on build of a Workshop/garage at the bottom of my garden (literally) to accommodate the car so I can get the build done in some comfort. I'm too bloody old to be lying down in the driveway, and anyway welding is tough enough without the weather being a factor.

Anyway when I finally got the workshop built I shoved the car in and completed its strip down

http://i.imgur.com/ZPeYnDE.jpg?1

Nova roast anyone...

TallDave

15-02-15, 01:51 PM

Right oh on to the little Nova of horrors, there's nothing hear that you won't have seen before, but I have been inflicted by all of them it seems...:cry:

Battery tray repair, well at least they didn't use fibre glass!

http://i.imgur.com/v4bmbWE.jpg?1
The underside looks even worse...
http://i.imgur.com/ryOXdEh.jpg?2
And inside, arghhh
http://i.imgur.com/LWTyMKG.jpg?1
Choppy choppy
http://i.imgur.com/Ee3opIT.jpg?1
Meanwhile on the passengers side, lurking under copius amounts of silicone sealant (obviously counts as a valid method of repair to some muppets) more horrors await, notice the remedial welding around the front of the turret and along the top of the chassis rail, this had rusted up through the paint, sigh....
http://i.imgur.com/50lQOkY.jpg?1
Doesn't look any better from underneath...
http://i.imgur.com/ibAFZlS.jpg?1
You can just about make out the plated repair (over the rusted out original?), needless to say this was soon to go
http://i.imgur.com/JdLikSq.jpg?1
You will notice that the upper bulkhead panel also got the heave ho, lots of clearance for throttle bodies:thumb:
While in the area of the front struts, the inside of the turrets was found to be somewhat lacking, so out with the spot weld cutter, cold chisel and disc cutter/grinder, the result?
Offside cleaned up
http://i.imgur.com/yqtVU9D.jpg?1
Nearside opened up to reveal the horrors, tbh the rust makes it looks worse than it actually is, underneath the surface rust the steel is still pretty solid thank goodness.
http://i.imgur.com/pj0B6Tr.jpg?1
You can just about makeout the repair down the join between the back of the wheel arch and the side panel, again made over the original rusted panel edge :wall:

Repair pictures to follow...

josh-sri

15-02-15, 06:35 PM

Unfortunately this all looks and sounds too familiar! Just like mine, hidden bodges that leave you scratching your head as to what they where thinking when attempting it. But I'm sure it will be rebuilt properly this time by the sounds of it, I look forward to the updates

Josh

Southie

15-02-15, 10:19 PM

Looked a very nice car, amazing the hidden rot but no surprise bearing in mind Novas are a minimum of 20 years old now.

TallDave

15-02-15, 10:51 PM

Thanks guys, I suppose it shouldn't come as a surprise bearing in mind the age of the cars and the poor anti rust treatment of the time, but it doesn't mean to say we can't live in hope I suppose...

Anyway on with the repairs. I bridged the gap between the turret and the bulkhead using two patches, the first (front right in the image below) overlaps the top edge of the Bulkhead, while the second (back right) folded up against the foot well due to the shape of the panel, it sure isn't going to win any awards, but it is solid! I also added a third piece along the seam at the front of the turret (front left below) where the original metal had rotted away, not strictly necessary I suppose but I've done it anyway.

http://i.imgur.com/WkOro9u.jpg?1

I apologise for the state of some of the welds, the welder and I are in discussions about this, but the welder seems to be winning at the moment, darn it!

Similar news on the nearside, though I have yet to seam weld along the join between the turret and the chassis member (top of the photo)

http://i.imgur.com/0OujC8m.jpg?1

More to come...

TallDave

20-02-15, 11:25 PM

A short update to round off the work around the strut tower...

From the top, looks like I have a reasonable amount of weld penetration, some grindy grindy required
http://i.imgur.com/aAfMs9x.jpg?1

It’s a similar story on the nearside, not very neat but strong enough.
http://i.imgur.com/VjuB1d3.jpg?1

Meanwhile at the back of the nearside wheel arch the seam looks a little crusty, despite being cut back a little
http://i.imgur.com/Dn2PrOp.jpg?1

It was a similar story on the offside, so why not just do away with the seam, chop back, bead weld, over plate for strength, et voila!
http://i.imgur.com/tU4JJWx.jpg?1

I realise it looks a little scuzy at the moment, but once I've finish welding the floor pan the area will be subject to the full POR15 treatment...
Meanwhile along the top of the nearside chassis rail the tin worm battle continues...
Nasty
http://i.imgur.com/BM4pV3O.jpg?1
So back to the cutting device...
http://i.imgur.com/w32io5W.jpg?1
Unfortunately thos also did away with most of the upper flange joint between the chassis rails inner and outer panels. So out with the welder for a spot of seam welding...
http://i.imgur.com/Y0Atb9e.jpg?1
As I welded I also finished removing the rotten bits, then time to plate up...
http://i.imgur.com/T9fuD7W.jpg?1

Just a bit to finish off, sigh

TallDave

21-02-15, 12:10 AM

As a slight diversion from the metalworking I suppose I should mention something about my plans for this car build wise.
Under the bonnet I initially intend to stick with the standard C20XE unit complete with standard injection and exhaust manifold. This will be connected to a standard F20 gearbox with a plate diff fitted to ensure max traction.

Development will likely include moving to a dry sump system, some light head work, upgraded cams and pulleys, an SBD style exhaust manifold and throttle bodies, all controlled by an Emerald engine management unit, the target being circa 225bhp with the meatiest torque curve I can get, if anyone has got any recommendations for engine spec (cams, exhaust manifold etc, I’d be delighted to hear them so come on don't be shy...lol

Suspension wise the car has inverted Bilstein coil-overs fitted at the front, I’ll be sticking with the standard font setup with poly bushes replacing the rubber and a 22mm a-roll bar trying to keep the roll in check. At the rear it’s the standard beam axle but with a set of coil over rear shocks, so I’ll need to turret the back end, I’ll probably go with the cavalier rear a-roll bar mod while I’m welding…
Ahhh goodies :thumb:
http://i.imgur.com/oGChKOx.jpg?1

The standard fuel tank will stay with a tank guard fitted, it’s perfectly placed for good weight distribution so why mess with it. The low pressure fuel pump(s) and filter to be sorted position wise. A separate swirl pot and high pressure pump will be placed within the engine bay, I’ll be using an oil pressure activated switch to kill the fuel pumps in the event of an engine stops for some reason….? :cry:

Steering will be taken care of courtesy of a Quaife quick rack and Corsa B electric power steering column.
Brakes will be Willwood Midlite 4 pots working on 310mm discs at the front (courtesy Rally Design), with Corsa C disc set up on the rear if I can find a set….

Inside I already have a nice new Motordrive seat, custom tweaked for my skinny ass, the side mounts will be Sparco ally jobs that should enable me to fit the seat tight to the tunnel in an attempt to sit as straight as possible, tricky to achieve what with the wheel arch intrusion, something that doesn’t seem to exist in more modern vehicles.
http://i.imgur.com/QmDhGE8.jpg?1

The co-driver’s seat mounts will be placed as far back as practically possible, with their foot rest being adjustable to cater for various leg lengths, just in case I have to go begging for a co-driver?
I have built my own version of the obligatory vertical handbrake, which will handle handbrake turn duties.

Gear changes will be undertaken via an Astra turret with support to raise it a tad...
http://i.imgur.com/wJmxd3E.jpg?1 http://i.imgur.com/8KI0XZN.jpg?2

and rose jointed, quick change, obviously I’d love a Quaife stick/linkage but the money will be going elsewhere…
http://i.imgur.com/BSZDu92.jpg?1

As mentioned I want to try to sit as straight as possible in the car (on this subject I heard an interesting story from the guy at Motordrive concerning Gwyndaf Evan's first, not altogether successful, forays in the Seat Cordoba Rally Car, but maybe some other time), so my current thinking is that I’ll use a floor mounted ‘2’ Pedal box for the brake and clutch which should help in this regard, I’ll use a modified standard throttle pedal to cater for the go duties.
Hopefully the Roll Cage can stay so long as it still complies with the MSA ‘Blue Book’, to enhance safety I may have X door bars fitted along with bracing to the front turrets and additional side to side braces.

The standard dash, which had already been converted to use the Astra’s Digital Dash Display, will be staying, although the crap standard fuse box has been binned.

WARNING RANT COMING….
What I want to know just bright spark (pun intended) thought it was a good idea to run live unfused wiring through ALL of the dashboard switch gear, before finally hitting a fuse on its way out to the various electrical components? Is it any wonder then that there are so many incidents of under dash fires!
…RANT OVER!

A standard battery will sit in a box in the rear seat well, the cabling being run along the tunnel, through a FIA power cut-off switch before passing into the engine bay via a bulkhead connector, a spur off the interior side of this connector will feed the dash mounted fuse box, while on the engine side a similar spur will feed the supply side of an under bonnet relay box handle, this in turn will handle the sharp end of the headlights, auxiliary lights, cooling fan, and air horn duties.
http://i.imgur.com/q94as9a.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/5XrGoan.jpg?1

My current interior rewire uses just 8 fuses, however this was carried out over two years ago (blimey that’s scary) and in the meantime my thoughts are that it would be a good idea to add a second set of fuses so that I can spread their duties more appropriately, if that makes any sense?
http://i.imgur.com/l8WkT04.jpg?2

The connector seen floating in mid air will connect up the electrics at the back of the car, the funny crown like connector is the earth connector.
http://i.imgur.com/LMrr8de.jpg?2

http://i.imgur.com/VVpJYun.jpg?2

As a further amendment I’m considering the merits of adding an auxiliary switch panel between the seats, primarily because with the seats being set well back the more usual under dash panel will be out of reach when the crew are belted in, this will carry switches to enable the co-driver to activate stuff like the wash/wipe, horn, headlight flash (well I live in hope that I might eventually catch someone) etc? :d

And finally in the back of my mind is the issue of additional auxiliary instrumentation, I can see that some will be desirable, most notably Oil Pressure and Temperature and possibly Fuel Pressure etc..? Has anybody got any suggestions as to whose instruments they can recommend, which I should be considering?

Looking forward to your comments/observations...

TallDave

31-07-15, 11:52 AM

Bloody hell is it really over 5 months since I last updated this thread, where does the time go!
That said my progress on this is so slow that such a time span almost seems appropriate....
So what has happened in the meantime, well not too much really as the car still swings on its spit...

Taking the best of some of the other threads (track day or rally cars) I have moved the handbrake mounting back in the car, this means I can move back the gear lever as I attempt to make room for my long legs!

Cable outlet moved back (by the length of the grey infill bit) and tacked in

http://i.imgur.com/0Orut5Q.jpg?1

Welded up
http://i.imgur.com/KrvqKps.jpg?1

Handbrake mounting replaced
http://i.imgur.com/ENoy9Rs.jpg?1

Thanks go to 8vCraig from whom I blagged this one.

Need to get more photo's to add further updates.

TallDave

31-07-15, 11:54 AM

Anyone give me a clue as to how I can move to a second page? Otherwise this is going to be one humungous single page thread!

Southie

31-07-15, 12:54 PM

Dave, just keep adding new posts as it automatically goes to more pages the more you add, usually after 10 iirc.

totalnova

31-07-15, 01:32 PM

Good progress. These are my favourite type of building threads with plenty of metal work .

TallDave

31-07-15, 07:42 PM

Many thanks, its always nice to have some feedback, it stops me feeling lonely...

I was hoping I wouldn't need to do quite as much refurbishment, but as has already been said the car is over 25 years old, and crucially pre-dates the current build methods which include total immersion in rust proofing coatings AFTER the shell is built. Hopefully if we find ourselves doing the same thing to Corsa D we won't have quite as much corrosion to deal with, will we?

RallyMarshal

31-07-15, 08:49 PM

Keep up the good work.

Personally, not sure on the merits of a Nova with an XE - only one that really worked was Rob Watsons highly developed one on the IoM - but good luck with the project.

I run an SBD 230 kit in my newly built Mk2 Astra rallycar but with a John Ashley custom Manifold as you wont fit an SBD Spec C type system with long primaries on the car with a sumpgaurd fitted. Bonus is that the shorter primaries and longer secondaries helped to boost torque a bit.

Theres a decent build for the new car on Astra mk2 forum and a cut down version on Mig...

Paul..

TallDave

01-08-15, 12:02 AM

Hi Paul

I'm not overly convinced about the merits of an XE powered Nova if I'm honest, however that's what the car came with so I decided to stick with it, heaven knows how I'm going to get to the 1000kg weight limit (where do the MSA get these stupid ideas from?) but I sure ain't going to start adding ballast...!

Thanks for the heads up on the exhaust manifold, am happy to go for as much torque as I can get, its the way all clubman rally engines should be built, I know I for one wouldn't have the skills to get the most out of a peaky high reving motor.

I've been following your Astra thread since late last year, in fact you may well remember me (the really tall lanky bloke) mentioning the fact at the Sunday Power Stage re-group on last years Wales Rally GB....?

Cheers
Dave

TallDave

01-08-15, 12:34 AM

To finish off the section I started earlier today...
Even though I have moved the handbrake mounting back about 7 cm, in order to be able to get the gear lever back far enough I decided to trim the end off the actual handbrake lever loosing around 2cm off the front of it. After a bit of tweaking, it still works perfectly, though you can only get 3 fingers around the grip now.

http://i.imgur.com/waZwsvq.jpg?1

The holes in the tunnel to the front and rear of the handbrake lever mounting are to accommodate the passenger seat rails.

The drivers seat is mounted to a single rail (tube) to the front, while the sear seat mounts are fitted to lowline seat mount towers (will add a picture eventually) that allow me to get the seat as low as possible so I can actually sit comfortably in the car with my crash helmet on.

Meanwhile out front a new front panel and cross member have been fitted

http://i.imgur.com/75XnWFA.jpg?1

Not OE but it seems to fit pretty well. Measured between the suspension pick up points on both sides and the were within a millimeter of each other which seems pretty good to me.

http://i.imgur.com/VrDvWLX.jpg?1

All welded in nicely, puddle spot welded and along the seams as well, the cleaned seams are pending additional welding as well as the HH strengthening panels (fitted underneath...!).

http://i.imgur.com/GMFz8GB.jpg?1

Meanwhile the seam along the underside of the nearside chassis rail was very crusty, so much so that I cut/ground it off in 10cm sections, seam welding the resulting butt join as I went. I finished it off by wrapping the join with a bit of plate to help to reinforce the join. Helps to makes it easier to get to the gearbox clusters as a result.

http://i.imgur.com/DiWOodW.jpg?1

The bit of welding you can see in the upper arch consist of two small posts to support my relay box (see earlier in the thread), the square bit is a patch I had to add when I realised that a rusty patch I had cleaned up was in fact perforated, funny what you discover when you leave the lead light on the floor...!

RallyMarshal

01-08-15, 10:54 AM

Had a lot of late nights since last years WRGB but vaguely remember a conversation!

Why not sell the XE and go 1600 smallblock? 920kg min weight limit, less weight over the front, keep the F20 box (just fit different clutch). I might be interested in a deal on a spare 1600 or 1400 16v for the XE if you wanted to go that route.

Im having a 1600 16v built for the Gravel / single venue car at the moment.

Paul..

TallDave

03-08-15, 03:34 PM

Paul, an interesting offer, which I might have been tempted to take you up on if I hadn't already bought a spare engine and gearbox.

Also I thought I'd check over the bottom end of the engine that came in the car, well I'd struggled to get it stood up in the engine stand (had to pick it up of the floor!!! I have an engine crane now), so I though I might as well inspect the big ends before I fit new ARP bolts?

Notice the slight copper coloured line in the right hand cap?

http://i.imgur.com/OhdmCRd.jpg?1

So a tad worn then, boll*$ks! A minimum of a new set of bearings across the bottom end of the engine then at best, question is what else lurks within?

Funny really as the engine looked nice and clean inside, unlike the spare engine which looks like it had''t had an oil change ever! Talk about carbon deposits, it was tragic, but the bearings are unmarked by comparison...

http://i.imgur.com/YVJCcVP.jpg?1

and

http://i.imgur.com/wGI7T7Y.jpg?2

Not to sure on that trade now I guess ;)

saloonwoody

06-08-15, 12:22 PM

looks good , keep up the good work ;)

RallyMarshal

06-08-15, 04:57 PM

Paul, an interesting offer, which I might have been tempted to take you up on if I hadn't already bought a spare engine and gearbox.
...

Not to sure on that trade now I guess ;)

If that was aimed at me then it wouldnt bother me too much..

Paul..

TallDave

23-08-15, 11:01 PM

If that was aimed at me then it wouldnt bother me too much..

Paul..

Errr sorry, yes it was. Since I wrote that I've caught up with your other build threads, I was exhausted just reading them, I can now see quite clearly that a few iffy bearings wouldn't faze you in the slightest. Fair play to you, you certainly know how to build a competition car.

RallyMarshal

23-08-15, 11:10 PM

Thanks for the complement :-)

To be fair, I dont actually build or rebuild the engines myself as I have a friend that I trust implicitly to do that. He did a fantastic job with my 1400 8v and the new 2.0 engine is wonderful. His next one is a 1600 16v on TBs with SBD cams, lifters etc.

Paul..

TallDave

23-08-15, 11:43 PM

I've finally started to get my act together with the welding, I started to get the chassis strengthening plates welded in after a bit of jiggery pokery to get them to fit nicely.

http://i.imgur.com/Da0kgc4.jpg?1

You can see that the front nearside lower suspension plates are in, as they are on the drivers side, the nearside front chassis rail plate has also been added along with the reinforcing plate for the front cross member.

As an aside you can just about make out the 'Cree' Led Headlight stuck on top of my welding helmet, I got pished off seeing only the workshop lights reflecting off the inside of the screen, so now I can turn them off and still see where I'm starting to weld, works very well so that's a result :thumb:

Done the strut tops as well, it is tricky doing a continual weld on these because their profile doesn't match the standard strut tops, having said that I think there is enough weld there to hold them in place over even the roughest airfield single venue.
Place reinforcing plate in position...
http://i.imgur.com/vDVuvwh.jpg
Cut out in order to accomodate the adjustable top mounts...
http://i.imgur.com/N2XLJiK.jpg
Weld...
http://i.imgur.com/HLo57Jn.jpg

Need to do some tidying up before slapping on some etch primer to try and keep the tin worm at bay.

TallDave

23-08-15, 11:57 PM

To be fair, I dont actually build or rebuild the engines myself as I have a friend that I trust implicitly to do that. He did a fantastic job with my 1400 8v and the new 2.0 engine is wonderful. His next one is a 1600 16v on TBs with SBD cams, lifters etc.

Paul..

Yes that 1400 motor seems to be bullet proof, fair does to your mate he can certainly build an engine. Now all I need is someone similar, however since I'm sadly lacking having such talented friends, that willl leave me dependent on my own dubious skills! Scarily this is the first time I've stripped down the bottom end of an engine with the intention of rebuilding it, it'll be a challenge to see if I can rebuild it well enough...?

Still its the challenges in life that make it worth living, err I think :d

TallDave

30-08-15, 12:55 AM

Right then to celebrate this thread reaching 1000 views, an update is here...

Having replaced the rotten turret panel that borders the inner wings, I've finally cleaned up the flitch panels and puddle welded them back in place, just need a spot of rust protection now along with most of the underside of the car...

http://i.imgur.com/cVvgbRe.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/vhLtEU2.jpg

I've also had to add some additional small patches onto a pre-existing repair just behind the nearside headlight...

Oh yes, this earlier repair was just slapped over the top of the rusting panel, sooo professional, not! Needless to say I've ground out the old metal so even though the patch looks pretty nasty from the other side, at least it won't continue rusting (he says hopefully).
http://i.imgur.com/pLwnjom.jpg

I then had too make up a patch for the same area on the offside, fits pretty well though I'll admit it isn't up to expert standards...

http://i.imgur.com/tl09fdq.jpg

and finally I have covered over the heater hole by welding a plate over the hole from inside the car (hey car spits rule!)...

http://i.imgur.com/zTnYAS5.jpg

Still got loads to do but at least progress is being made :thumb:

RallyMarshal

31-08-15, 09:21 AM

Keep at it :-)

Paul..

josh-sri

31-08-15, 07:01 PM

Looking good Dave, welding looks great, Looks all too familiar to mine at the moment removing previous bodges etc!

Josh

TallDave

31-08-15, 07:13 PM

Keep at it :-)

Paul..

Doing my best, but need to do better!

For instance I've spent the last couple of days modifying the rear engine mount and dummying up my gearlever linkage.

Assembled my spare engine block and empty gearbox casing an hoisted it into the engine bay from underneath (sorry Benn) ;)

The engine mount is sorted, and fairly happy with the revised gear lever turret which I have had to lower somewhat from my original effort. This was necessary in order for the rod to gearbox link (the one that pivots on the rear gearbox mount) misses the steering rack, though that might be useful...!

Will post some photos soon.

Looking good Dave, welding looks great, Looks all too familiar to mine at the moment removing previous bodges etc!

Josh

Cheer Josh, yup all to familiar, its the fact that others on here are taking on even more work to restore their cars that helps keep me going!

House

03-09-15, 08:16 PM

Wow!! You are tall!!!

Some top work here mate, keep at it!!

Any chance of some photos showing how the spit mounts at the rear? I can only assume the front is on the bumper mounts?

I'm looking at using one over this winter as I've got a lot of underseal to clean and replace and also some strengthening welding to do under there too!!

TallDave

04-09-15, 12:41 PM

Wow!! You are tall!!!

Told you so... lol Somehow I have to fit that frame into the confines of a Nova with a roll cage fitted... :confused:

Some top work here mate, keep at it!!

Any chance of some photos showing how the spit mounts at the rear? I can only assume the front is on the bumper mounts?

Thanks, still got sooo much more to do!

The rear spit mounts onto the rear bumper mounts, but you need to ensure some muppet hasn't removed the bracing brackets that fit between the inside of the back panel and the boot floor/chassis rail. Mine had just one of these fitted so I had to fabricate a new one for the offside.

You'll really enjoy removing all the under-seal, not. As others on here have mentioned before, a hot air gun as used for paint stripping does ease the process quite a bit. It also helps to keep you warm in a freezing cold garage.

House

04-09-15, 12:59 PM

Yeah I've still got the rear braces!! Might run some weld round those braces to strengthen them up.

I'll need a set of front bumper irons.

I've taken the decision that putting it up on stands and laying under it to remove the underseal will be too much effort!! Plus welding upside down is for real men and I'm not one of those.

Where's the best place to get a decent rollover jig from, happy to weld it together myself. Must be one second hand somewhere!!!

TallDave

04-09-15, 11:57 PM

Where's the best place to get a decent rollover jig from, happy to weld it together myself. Must be one second hand somewhere!!!

If you look on that well known auction site Abey, you can pick up a basic one for £205 posted, if you want it on casters so you can wheel it about (or move it from side to side) then add £75 quid to the basic price...

Of course you could always build your own, plenty of images that include the odd set of basic plans if you search on Google Images, get yourself some 2mm wall 40mm box (I used some slimmer box and had to add some extra bracing, but then I had it laying around so cost was nil) and away you go, add in some 6mm plate to bolt a set of nova rear hubs to, you'll need handbrake and cable and voila you can put the car in any position you want.

Measurement wise, the centre of my hubs are set 920mm of the ground, with the centre of the bumper fixings set 200mm below this so that the centre of the hubs sit somewhere close to the CoG. I seem to have got it fairly close as its pretty easy rotate it. Better still the roof gutters don't hit the floor :d mind you you don't want to leave the grinder on the floor in the middle of the car as you'd risk damaging the paint :cry:

House

05-09-15, 07:03 AM

Brill, thanks Mr Tall, I had spotted the one on said auction site, they claim to be able to provide the right mounting plates and bars for a Nova to ensure the COG is correct. They're quite near me so will pop and see them at some point and collect one.

TallDave

08-09-15, 02:32 PM

Rewinding slightly, for some time I’ve been considering getting a decent pillar drill just to make life a little easier and make hole drilling a tad more precise, but then I though why stop at just a pillar drill, when not a small milling machine?
And so I purchased this…
http://i.imgur.com/h9XUWKA.jpg?1

Which meant I had to build this, and me being me I decided to re-cycle an bed frame donated by a mate, he’s a chunky chap so I thought if it could support him and his girlfriend, is should support my new toy…

http://i.imgur.com/z1SZn3R.jpg?1The Box contains engine components and a bare block will slide underneath on its trolley.

Continuing the re-cycling theme the mattress support planks where doubled up to form the top, while a single layer made the lower shelf, cost so far £0… Add in half a sheet of 18mm ply and a roller draw kit and the job is done, just a pity it added nothing to the car build!

Coming more up to date, so far I’ve slotted the plates that my seat mounts bolt down to, this was definitely easier than drilling holes and filing out the slots!
Then after I’d modified the rear engine/gearbox mount to this...
http://i.imgur.com/M62FDYd.jpg

I read 'How To' thread be 'The Simps' about utilising the third mounting point on the F20 Gearbox. So I cut up one of the now redundant spacer plates and attacked it with the mill...
http://i.imgur.com/Tvz2mWc.jpg

With this modified plate welded on the inside of the engine mount, another part of the mount welded to the other side and a tube welded between the two, it could be factory (sort of)...
http://i.imgur.com/g3XYNwK.jpg

I still need to extend the bracing plate and sort out the actual mounting point (weld on some washers and fill the over generous slot with weld), but need to sort out some decent mountings for thefront of the engine first

Meanwhile I used the better of the standard F20 gearbox turrets (the version that has the 1-2 plane alignment pin in it) to sort out my gear linkage, after much filing/grinding cursing etc, not to mention time, I’ve finally got something that fits the car and most importantly my seating position.
http://i.imgur.com/nQ2rJNk.jpg

I’ve stuck in my handbrake as well, just to see these two controls fit together, I had to hold the steering wheel in roughly the right place to ensure I had clearance, made a few brum brum noises too lol.

Now I need to make up the support for the handbrake as its currently just hanging over into the drivers foot well, then there are the steering column mounts to sort, then a pedal box, then……….:cry:

Balley

08-09-15, 02:42 PM

The mill looks very hand, Is it big enough to skim a head?

mk1nova_rich

08-09-15, 10:24 PM

The mill looks very hand, Is it big enough to skim a head?

No definitely not

Great work so far Dave, keep it up :)

TallDave

03-10-15, 12:43 AM

Hi Bailey, yup the mill is proving very handy, though Mk1nova_rich is quite right its definitely not large enough to skim car cylinder heads.

Thanks for the comments 'Rich', I'm doing my best to keep the project moving, but I seem to be a tad slow to say the least of it...

TallDave

03-10-15, 01:00 AM

Right Oh! A much needed update, I’ve prepared and fitted a mount for my vertical hydraulic handbrake.

http://i.imgur.com/aECqYyJ.jpg

Then I turned my attention to fitting the electric power steering column, as this required some fabrication to suit my chosen seating position, I thought I might as well sort out the hopeless standard steering wheel alignment so that the wheel is actually straight and in front of the driver, novel huh?
First I needed to try and get the new column into position so that I could produce a new mounting bracket, since the column it a tad on the weighty side this isn’t as easy as I’d hoped. Still necessity is the mother of invention, so some thick steel plate had a few holes drilled in it (so easy with a pillar drill), then with the aid of a fist full of penny washers and a few bolts I ended up with this jig

http://i.imgur.com/17tqJZ4.jpg

Hacked a few bits out of the dashboard so it will fit around the bulkier column and fit

http://i.imgur.com/blZxATc.jpg

Hmmm looking a distinct improvement and I should still be able to see the instrument panel.

Then it is out piece of steel plate, bent up the two outside edges (heat and big hammer), then more cutting and drilling/slot cutting (so easy with a mill :thumb:), bolt this to the column then add some tube and spreader plate to form the actual bracket, all within the dashboard shell, part way there...

http://i.imgur.com/hJW3a9S.jpg

I want to stick with the standard(ish) dash as I’m not a great fan of the stripped out dash look, even though that it is plainly the way to go for a full on multipurpose competition vehicle.
So the finished article looks like this, happily the cockeyed standard mounting leaves plenty of room to fit my modified mount. The square bar is going to make up the back mounting point for the rack.

http://i.imgur.com/BtFlrUr.jpg

So now it just remains to tack it into position, then remove the standard mount, so that I can finish welding up the new mount, driver eye view of the installation pending final welding..

http://i.imgur.com/J9zOdEM.jpg

Even better it looks as if I'll be able to utilise the bottom section of the standard Nova steering column, along with the upper CV from the new Corsa power steering column and the lower (rather horrid) standard Nova steering rack flexi link, to connectup my revised steering column position to the rack, that'll be a major result if it does? Here's hoping....

TallDave

14-10-15, 03:55 PM

It would seem that I have a bit of a thing for Roman Greco style architecture…

http://i.imgur.com/BfBZ1jS.jpg

However I’m since I know that neither the Romans or the Greeks had to deal with automotive electrical safety, this is surely not the case…

http://i.imgur.com/yooUHxH.jpg

And just in case you were wondering, even if the handbrake pulls to the maximum ratchet position there is still clearance

http://i.imgur.com/of7e58P.jpg

Just!

I've angled the box so it is at more of a natural angle when I reach down/back to it, it is rather tight to the seat belt adjusters but is ok for tightening duties, slackening off however will require more faffing to release the buckles, still the seat belts are supposed to the tight aren't they?

Meanwhile with the removal of the carpet support to allow for the installation of the Astra gear lever assembly, and the chop of the centre console section of the Nova dash that was required to clear said gear linkage, the dash needed some additional support in this area. So with my thing for tubing there was only one option…

http://i.imgur.com/kO7IUJE.jpg

The asymmetric V was a neat solution that neatly cleared the gear linkage, but left the tunnel relatively clear so that I can still route the electric, fuel and brake lines along it once I can decide/find suitable fittings!
I’m currently sorting out the electrics AGAIN, following a rethink of my original layout, handily this is something I can muck about with while I’m away from the workshop so its not costing too much fabrication time. My plan requires an small centre console making up so I can cater for more relays and fuses, so its out with the ali sheet for more chop, chop, file, file… etc

More soon..... ish

Iain

14-10-15, 04:26 PM

Your fabrication looks well funky lol Loving the electrics cut off box mount.

TallDave

15-10-15, 09:05 PM

Your fabrication looks well funky lol Loving the electrics cut off box mount.

Many thanks for the compliment, I'm working at function over form really, but if the function looks good I'll take that as a bonus :thumb:.

The box is only a basic ABS unit so I've used a bit of 2mm alloy plate to sit it on in the hope that it lends it a bit of longevity from heavy hands. The location keeps it nice and close to the battery (which will sit in the rear passengers seat well), which should keep the motorsport scrutineers happy.

TallDave

30-10-15, 11:28 PM

Right then another bit of an update, this time I have an excuse for slacking as I've been to watch the Spanish round of the World Rally Championship, one event I can high recommend for any rally fan.

With the power steering column mounted, I though I'd better find somewhere to put the ECU for it, since I've made a brace for the dashboard, that seemed the obvious choice, so after a bit of choppy, choppy and bendy, bendy, some welding saw me with this...

http://i.imgur.com/Z7qsMJl.jpg

So with the ECU and a oversize fuse holder in place we have this...

http://i.imgur.com/HCXMtlM.jpg

Meanwhile previously I'd made up a revised centre console style panel to hold double the number of fuses, it also houses a number of relay mounts. The original fuse panel mounting was over the radio mounting hole, this has now been used to accommodate my auxiliary switches for fuel pumps, heated screen (if I can find one!), cooling fan over-ride and spot lights the result needs covering with some mock carbon...

http://i.imgur.com/S5tzyhv.jpg

Thankfully all of this clears my gear linkage, just!!!!

Iain

31-10-15, 10:19 AM

Looks great. I have switches there in my track car and its a very usable place for them

TallDave

09-11-15, 11:20 AM

Looks great. I have switches there in my track car and its a very usable place for them

Thanks, as a radio is superfluous in a track/competition car it makes sense to use the available slot for something useful :d

Having just got back from officiating on a Classic Car event in North Eastern France, its off to do the same on Rally GB this weekend, after that is out of the way I hope to get back to making better progress on the car...:roll:

RallyMarshal

16-11-15, 07:11 PM

..... its off to do the same on Rally GB this weekend, after that is out of the way I hope to get back to making better progress on the car...:roll:

Did you get blown away by the wind? I was at regroup again on Sunday and hoped to bump into you..

House

16-11-15, 07:47 PM

RallyMarshal

16-11-15, 08:32 PM

Good work Mr Tall.

Heated screen here

http://www.heatedwindscreen.com/acatalog/vauxhall-nova-heated-windscreen.html

I've got one, really good, bought a timer relay and made up a loom and push switch so it's only on for 10 mins at a time to stop it from burning out.

Thats quite funny... It has a photo of my old Rally Nova on this page :-)

Its from http://www.teamrallymarshal.co.uk/car.asp

Paul..

House

16-11-15, 08:34 PM

^^^^^^^ That's cool!!

TallDave

19-11-15, 02:13 PM

Did you get blown away by the wind? I was at regroup again on Sunday and hoped to bump into you..

Hi Paul. Almost got blown away, but somehow managed to stay on my feet.

I spent Friday in Hafren line marshaling at Junc 6B(?) in the company of a couple from the Leeds/Bradford area, ironacly they also campaign a Nova on Stage events, though they haven't used the car in some time as the driver has taken to Car Trials using a Corsa. We had a fantastic view across the Welsh hills to the East, all the better to admire the hail storms as the swept by, best bit of the day was a French crew in a DS3 who lost a wheel, their tantrum was so hilarious it must be on Utube somewhere?

Saturday I was joined by a mate and did 'B' System (positive reporting of the cars progress) in Dyfnant, I was barely 5km in at the first reporting point and the weather was appalling, but we still had spectators walking in to the stage before the first cars started. If anything the weather got worse for the evening run, with my TT being buffeted quite a lot by the wind, I think it might have stopped raining twice in 8 hours, but only for a few moments... The run out to civilisation from the stage was interesting to say the least, plenty of standing water and a bit of flooding added a bit of spice to the driving experience.

Sunday I was acting as Sector Marshal on Alwen, I landed one of the main spectator access points for my pains but had a good bunch of guys and girls from Harlech MC to help out. Despite the weather there were plenty of spectators around, though many thought they had come on to the Brenig stage! It didn't stop raining all day, so after 6 hours stood out in the rain I discovered my supposedly waterproof gear was anything but (as did most of my companions), I was just grateful that the weather was so mild. I think I was just about dried out by the time I got to Gloucester on the run home.

Ah the joys of doing Rally Wales GB....

TallDave

19-11-15, 02:15 PM

Good work Mr Tall.

Heated screen here

http://www.heatedwindscreen.com/acat...indscreen.html (http://www.heatedwindscreen.com/acatalog/vauxhall-nova-heated-windscreen.html)

I've got one, really good, bought a timer relay and made up a loom and push switch so it's only on for 10 mins at a time to stop it from burning out.

Many thanks Mr House, all good valuable information, especially the timer relay, got that added to my list of required electrical stuff I need to polish off the loom.

TallDave

12-01-16, 08:02 PM

So much for my intention of keeping this thread ticking over with regular updates…
After much faffing and a certain amount of indecisiveness, I’ve finally settled on a layout for my wiring in the engine bay, I’m going to utilise a ‘Lighting Loom’ (incorporating the horn and radiator fan), and ‘Engine Loom’ (incorporating all of the none ECU items such as the speedo feed, reversing light switch, starter solenoid etc). Initially at least I’m intending sticking with a standard ECU setup, I may yet change my mind though….
So gone is the standard hole for the wiring loom
http://i.imgur.com/cYlqs1w.jpg
The loom will be running down the nearside chassis leg to my secondary relay box just behind the nearside headlight, here feeding the nearside lights/indicator as well as horn and radiator fan. The loom for the offside lights and radiator thermos switch continuing back under the wing and through the front cross member. All very neat and tidy, and though by no manner of means will this be a show car, it should make Benn happy…
One of the drivers to this move was that I wanted to make the slam panel removable as this means the radiator can be removed/fitted without having to remove the exhaust manifold. However this left me in a quandary as to what to do with the wiring loom which normally runs along the slam panel, hence running it through the cross member solved that one nicely.

http://i.imgur.com/hNVRf79.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/T0J4Str.jpg
4 low profile cap head bolts secure the panel in place, while their captive nuts have been welded to the underside of the panel.
I have also eased the standard upper radiator mounts as far forward as they will go so giving just a little more space to play with without restricting the space in front of the radiator too much. Hopefully the grill panel will still fit with the minimum of fettling?!
I need to sort out some form of mounting for an oil cooler, but first I need to source a cooler…!
Meanwhile I bought myself this little beauty for Christmas
http://i.imgur.com/E34izpN.jpg
For the curious amongst you, the bits of aluminium block/billet have been cut with the intention of making up some dual banjo connection to link two high pressure fuel pumps together, they need a fair amount of machining so it remains to be seen whether or not these come to fruition? You can pick up something similar online but prices somewhere north of £90 are a bit steep for me.
Next on my shopping list alongside an oil cooler, are fuel pumps, fuel filters and brake fluid reservoirs so I can hopefully finish the remaining mounts required in the engine bay, so a few late Christmas presents to myself are in the offing…
Meanwhile, also ticked off the ‘to do’ list is the build-up of my Quaife quick rack kit, utilizing a combination of the ‘How To’ guide on here and the Haynes Manual, it was a pretty simple job really. I’ve not completed the re-assembly just yet as I want to make up some lock stops to limit the chances of out breaking CV joints on full lock, not too sure how far to go with the limiting element, I think I’ll try cutting the lock down from 2.6 turns to around 2, anyone got any experience in this respect?

Iain

12-01-16, 08:30 PM

I looked into lock stops and it seems quite common in the mini world. Might be worth looking there.

Wiring in the cross member is a bold move but should work if waterproof!

RallyMarshal

13-01-16, 08:28 AM

Meanwhile, also ticked off the ‘to do’ list is the build-up of my Quaife quick rack kit, utilizing a combination of the ‘How To’ guide on here and the Haynes Manual, it was a pretty simple job really. I’ve not completed the re-assembly just yet as I want to make up some lock stops to limit the chances of out breaking CV joints on full lock, not too sure how far to go with the limiting element, I think I’ll try cutting the lock down from 2.6 turns to around 2, anyone got any experience in this respect?

I didnt lock stop my Nova - I used a 6mm washer on outer CV but inside the hub to limit the amount of plunge instead.

Paul..

TallDave

13-01-16, 03:52 PM

I looked into lock stops and it seems quite common in the mini world. Might be worth looking there.

Hi Iain, I'd already checked out your thread on this topic, so have the Mini World link stached away as a backstop.

Wiring in the cross member is a bold move but should work if waterproof!

Don't worry its fully waterproof in there, I had to extend the wiring somewhat to fit but that is safely sealed up with heat shrink.

I didnt lock stop my Nova - I used a 6mm washer on outer CV but inside the hub to limit the amount of plunge instead.

Thanks Paul, that is a bit of technical information I wasn't aware of, will be making more than a mental note of that one! Cheers :thumb:

AndrewC

19-01-16, 07:29 AM

I didnt lock stop my Nova - I used a 6mm washer on outer CV but inside the hub to limit the amount of plunge instead.

Paul..

I haven't done either of those....but as no wheels turned in anger yet I don't really know if that'll be a problem or not.
Liking the creative controls/switches.

TallDave

19-01-16, 05:42 PM

Thanks for the comment Andrew.

Just a small update while I sit in a Chalet in Tigne, France after a good days skiing lol

Sorted out my Wiper motor mount and gave it a lick of paint so it looks nice

http://i.imgur.com/pzoXeFE.jpg
Pity about the rest of the engine bay though ;)

Meanwhile I grabbed a few pictures of my finished Dash Layout
Drivers View
http://i.imgur.com/yudI6rP.jpg

Close up of the switch and fuse/relay panel now resplendent in carbon wrap
http://i.imgur.com/frKUuZH.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/BC3q8Zt.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ghHXkFh.jpg

House

19-01-16, 07:50 PM

Loving the dash mate!!!

TallDave

21-01-16, 06:17 PM

Loving the dash mate!!!

Thanks mate, I'm quite happy with it and it really hasn't cost me much to sort it out. Its not overly pretty, especially with that big orange timer relay standing out like a sore thumb, but hey its a rally car not a show car.

House

21-01-16, 08:52 PM

Thanks mate, I'm quite happy with it and it really hasn't cost me much to sort it out. Its not overly pretty, especially with that big orange timer relay standing out like a sore thumb, but hey its a rally car not a show car.

It's a rally car not a show car!!! It's my new motto!!!

TallDave

03-02-16, 04:02 PM

It's a rally car not a show car!!! It's my new motto!!!

Darn it I shold have patented it....:)

My blagging of other peoples good ideas continues, this time concerning the heater. Though I intend to fit a heated screen, it is usually nice to have some form of contingency plan, well that's what an acquaintance of my tells me.

I was considering an after market heater unit, which meant I'd need to route the air to the windscreen vents (I'm retaining the standard dashboard), when I happened across Iain's thread about modifying the standard Nova heater by blowing the air up through the cabin outlet. Brilliant Idea I though so it was out with the saw to trim off the unwanted elements from the heater box...
http://i.imgur.com/6u9pM2P.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/rgcmpRN.jpg

As I don't have a rusty Nova shell to hand to cut the standard heater bulkhead mount out of, it was out with the CAD
http://i.imgur.com/IYUV5QZ.jpg

Then a bit of choppy choppy, file file and et voila
http://i.imgur.com/mYhGQad.jpg

Then after a bit of folding I had this onto which I can mount the standard fan motor
http://i.imgur.com/PlmkVM5.jpg

The panel just needs a bit of welding and a lick of paint to finish it off. it will bolt up over the heater radiator matrix and hold it nicely in place. The heater matrix will be reversed so that the pipes will route through the cabin to plumb into the system at a place yet to be decided...:confused:

The more observant will notice that my butchering of the heater box means the outlet is limited to the centre facia vents, this situation will be resolved by some judicious modifications to the molding which connects the heater box to the dashboard, all aided by a glue gun to seal it all up.

I've also got my new fuel tank off the shelf (turns out its a GSI tank so that is a result!) and modified the fuel pick-up to delete the fuel pump, I've managed to retain the in tank fuel strainer so that is another bonus (no picture unfortunately), now I have just got to order up some fuel pumps so I can get the plumbing sorted...

Iain

03-02-16, 04:17 PM

"Another bloomin Rally Car build/rebuild/idea ripping off thread". First House's life motto and now this, when will it end.

Like it. If you can duct up to the windscreen as well as the centre vents and you're laughing. Shame you didn't see my 'shell pieces' sale thread or I could have cut you a piece out.

TallDave

05-02-16, 11:33 PM

"Another bloomin Rally Car build/rebuild/idea ripping off thread". First House's life motto and now this, when will it end.

Ah I plead guilty as charged, though you omitted my blagging of 8vCraig's cut-n-shut job to move the handbrake back, trully I have no shame :thumb:

Like it. If you can duct up to the windscreen as well as the centre vents and you're laughing. Shame you didn't see my 'shell pieces' sale thread or I could have cut you a piece out.

Actually I've blanked off the centre vents, tbh I'm not a fan of having hot air blowing in my face so I don't see that as a loss. Yes it might have been a bit easier to use the original fan mount, though it wasn't that hard bending a bit of sheet up to do the job. Cheers.

TallDave

02-03-16, 03:46 PM

Continuing the stuttering nature of this thread, here it another small update.
In order to round off work in the engine bay, I really needed to sort out the set-up of the Swirl Pot, Fuel Pumps and Filter, these I intend to mount on an alloy platform which in turn will be secured to threaded steel bobbins welded into the upper bulkhead. As an aside I intend to secure the engine ecu, also mounted onto an alloy plate, onto the underside of these bobbins.
First step lash out a load of cash on some components…
http://i.imgur.com/mjcEfBW.jpg

Unfortunately a few components are on back order so I’m not in a position to finalise the layout of the under bonnet fuel system set up, so I’ve turned my attention to the low pressure lift pumps which need to be mounted into a fire proof box. A popular path seems to be re-purposing an ammo box, but because I’ve got so much to do I thought I might as well add to the work by making up my own box in the rear seat well, and anyway there is no space behind either of the front seats!
So the first step was to see if my planned set up would work, out with the peg board...
http://i.imgur.com/7NGbS4K.jpg

Happy enough with that, so its out with the ali plate and a few hours measuring and cutting hoses and hey presto.
http://i.imgur.com/bgASTbO.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/3FEN0Nv.jpg

That is about as neat as I can make it and it, which is a pity because it was still a bit too large to fit in my first attempt at a Fuel Pump housing, so it was back to the drawing board to enlarge my original CAD layout to version 2…
http://i.imgur.com/cyLAdA5.jpg

I have committed this to some steel plate, which will possess a flange around the top to add rigidity and give something to secure a lid to.
All I need to do now is fold the steel, weld it together then weld it in place. Sounds simple, I just hope it actually is that’s simple…

TallDave

08-03-16, 08:25 PM

Managed to fold and weld up my fuel pump housing ready to fit in the rear seat well

http://i.imgur.com/oEXnFyZ.jpg

On examining the standard 'in tank' fuel pump outlet it really points in the wrong direction to enable an easy connection, my solution is to simply reverse it.

http://i.imgur.com/ShFdSLN.jpg

This done I simply had to make up a suitable fuel pick-up pipe, I decided to retain the standard in tank filter

http://i.imgur.com/wXN82eJ.jpg

Hits the bottom of the tank, which is nice...

Meanwhile on Monday the postie delivered this set-up for my High Pressure Pumps, very nice but freakin expensive

http://i.imgur.com/zwkkGef.jpg

More soon I hope.

Iain

08-03-16, 09:29 PM

TallDave

12-03-16, 01:46 PM

I did very similar. Kept the spi tank with the internal pump and swirl pot and made a 'straight through' pipe from the original pump. I think I welded a pipe clamp to connect it to to stop it moving about on the rubber, did you do similar?

Hi Iain, I had considered modifying the standard pump bracing arm, but because I've reversed the angle of the pick-up pipe and the single piece of cunifer seems to be stable enough. I've decided it doesn't warrant any further bracing. So just for a change I've not gone for the belt and braces solution lol

RallyMarshal

31-01-17, 09:57 AM

Any progress...???

RallyMarshal

22-08-17, 07:52 AM

Any further on?

TallDave

28-08-17, 05:32 PM

To be honest not a lot, had some personal stuff to deal with and so I've not really had the enthusiasm to really push on, add that to the desire and just get out on the stages meant I went out and bought a C2 all ready to go.... Obviously me being me I had to do some work on it first but I still managed to get out and do Abingdon (Sprint and Stages), got a finish that wasn't last...! Sadly I had some damage to the car, some due to a very poor previous repair, the other due to me clipping a pallet chicane as I was pushing a Polo driver who wasn't keen on letting me by...
Fixing the damage to the C2 and sourcing a few replacement parts is diverting both time and funds but hey ho....

C2 Post Abingdon.... ouch!
http://i.imgur.com/kd9uSMm.jpg

Not to bad a place to work, notice the grey box on the tunnel, this contains the master switch, ignition switch and auxilliary controls, vast improvement on the original fitttings the car came with, notice steering column lowering blocks and extended steering wheel spacer...
http://i.imgur.com/tfC9EmP.jpg

Hopefully I'll get back onto the Nova at somepoint over the winter, in the meantime I'll add some of the small odds and sods I've done in the meantime. I have managed to reinstate all the photos into my thread and shut down my Photob*$?ard account sod them!!!

Anyone know how I can get rid of the PB messege in the RH margin, the administrator maybe?

TallDave

28-08-17, 05:36 PM

Anyone know how I can get rid of the PB messege in the RH margin, the administrator maybe?

Scratch that, now I've got rid of my PB links, refreshed the page, et viola the message has gone. Goodbye and good riddance :witch:

TallDave

28-08-17, 06:17 PM

Sod it, less of this slack behaviour, well ok maybe not...

Have an idea to make up my own pedal box, Tilton phaaa...

Draw it...

http://i.imgur.com/ZAgwdyE.jpg

Bit of CAD
http://i.imgur.com/XhTU5NX.jpg?3

Transfer to metal...
http://i.imgur.com/cjY827Z.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/QO8AThE.jpg

Still needs bending and completion of fabrication/welding, then again maybe I can pass around a begging bowl in the hope I can raise the funds for one of Mr Tiltons finest...?

BACK TO REALITY I've finally completed my blagging of 16vCraigs "Dry Sump Pump Cutaway" of the offside chassis leg

Mark it up to cut...
http://i.imgur.com/u5LDmyb.jpg

Deep breath and cut...
http://i.imgur.com/a7xstna.jpg

CAD cut out transfered to (2mm thick) metal which is bent to shape...
http://i.imgur.com/nrIKi1X.jpg?1

Weld it all up, hmmmmmm...
http://i.imgur.com/y8gdUXe.jpg

Front of car almost done, just need to finalise my (front) engine/gearbox mounts now, but that is for another time....

Iain

30-08-17, 08:21 PM

Can't wait to see how the pedal box turns out. Great update.

totalnova

30-08-17, 08:45 PM

Can't wait to see how the pedal box turns out. Great update.

Agree love a bit of custom fabrication

JoeWak98

03-04-18, 11:57 AM