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View Full Version : Brake bias and stuff



millworm
16-10-14, 12:49 AM
Right so I have rear discs and a hydro hand brake and a bias valve all to fit to my car, question is how should it all look? Drew a little pic and correct me if I'm wrong. Also I take it nova is dual front and rear not sided or diagonal http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/15/92d14139238fd374c5e41b03aa1f98f5.jpg

RallyMarshal
16-10-14, 08:08 AM
I always put the bias valve in front of the hydraulic handbrake rather than behind it but otherwise looks good.

Would suggest a bias pedal box will allow you to get a better balance on the brakes but at the expense of a servo and your leg muscles.

Paul..

Iain
16-10-14, 08:36 AM
A Nova is plumbed up diagonal as standard, but you can swap it to split fronts and split rears when you make up the lines.

scott.parker
16-10-14, 08:55 AM
I remember some one once said you could use a M/C valve from a 993cc saloon to reduce rear brake biase, or there's the option of putting a valve in line from off of cavalier gsi or something?
But.. I've never been able to identify or get 100% clarification on the part to actually purchase some, as I want to run rear discs but without pedal box or manual biase value etc..
So does anyone know the exact parts I've mentioned? Could be of help to people who want to do rear discs..

millworm
16-10-14, 11:45 AM
Well this is a 1.0 and still has oe master, so could give it a go

millworm
16-10-14, 11:48 AM
I always put the bias valve in front of the hydraulic handbrake rather than behind it but otherwise looks good.

Would suggest a bias pedal box will allow you to get a better balance on the brakes but at the expense of a servo and your leg muscles.

Paul..

i would but I lack the fabricating skills and funds to do one

johnd
16-10-14, 01:18 PM
I read that you use a nova gsi servo, tigra master cylinder with 4 ports on it and astra gte pressure regulaters. Thats what i have on mine never had no bother with locking up

Johnny A
16-10-14, 02:52 PM
You saw how my XE Nova was done? I connected the two rear lines together - this means one line to the rear so you can run an adjustable bias valve, then your hydraulic handbrake after that.

Only downside to this is you loose the diagonal lines

millworm
16-10-14, 03:03 PM
Most rally cars and track cars use that setup anyway, looks like that's what I'll do then. Doubt it matters Witch port I use for either axle?

Johnny A
16-10-14, 03:14 PM
Leave front outputs as they are, then remove the factory rear bias valves and remove their internals, refit and join the two rear lines together

Peredur
16-10-14, 05:48 PM
Whatever you do, don't just join both rears together as they are or if you were to lose a brake line on any corner you'd loose all 4. Plumb the fronts into one chamber on the mc then the rears to another. If you search there's plenty of examples about

Johnny A
16-10-14, 06:07 PM
Whatever you do, don't just join both rears together as they are or if you were to lose a brake line on any corner you'd loose all 4. Plumb the fronts into one chamber on the mc then the rears to another. If you search there's plenty of examples about

MORON! Any chance you could think for yourself instead of copying someone else!?!

There are two pistons on a common rod inside the master cylinder, one handles one set of opposing corners and vice versa.

IF he does as you suggest he will have one piston driving front and one rear - I see your limited logic here so bare with me. If one piston fails... at least the backs or fronts still work right!?!?

Well yes that's true but you're forgetting that the front and back wheels do NOT get 50/50 bias.. not even close and if Millworm is fitting rear discs and an adjustable bias valve I think we can assume the ratio will be even more percentage to the front (maybe as much as 90% front).

So Millworm does as YOU suggest but sets a bias restrictor in the rear line and sets it to 90%.... then he goes to brake.... the restrictor holds back 90% of the fluid trying to get to the rear line... which holds back the fluid.... which holds back the piston..... which holds back the pedal....

He then comes back onto PNG with a technical question asking why is brake pedal his so hard and his braking efficiency so bad! Assuming he didn't crash it on his first outing

My way does away with the safety feature of having two independent lines, however at least the brakes will actually work!!! Your way means the brakes don't work properly to start with... which do you think is safer?

Peredur
16-10-14, 09:28 PM
I see, sorry but it's just how I was informed of the best way to do it. I take it your way equalises pressure in both cylinder chambers, using the valve only to limit the rear pressure?