What do you recommend i do to a C20SEH before I fit?

[Nealos]

Iv just bought a C20SEH and f20 box is there anything you recommend I do to them before I get them fitted? I'm not looking to spend much money as I'm on a bit of a budget. Apparently there's a bit of knocking when the engine is cold but goes when it is warmed up. I'm new to this too and not really mechanically minded (can do basic things like servicing etc) so all help is appreciated. Thanks!

[torquey]

The knocking needs investigating for starters. Also i would bang a new cambelt and waterpump on it. Makes sense as engines out of the car.

[Nealos]

Belt and water pump have been done, the guy said he was going to reshell it excuse my ignorance/lack of knowledge but what exactly is this?

[torquey]

Sounds like he means needs new bearings. Has it spun a shell hence the knocking?

[Nealos]

Not to sure he said it ran fine but he was going to reshell it if he used it again due to knock when cold

[Rob H]

I assume he means it has a bottom end bearing knock. Basically the little c shape sleeves that fit in between the con rod and lower connecting section of the rod. If you whip the sump off and inspect carefully should be able to see if 1 has spun.

[nova_niek]

If the bearing shells are on the way out, look for copper deposits in the sump. If that is the case, then you want to have the crank checked over. If the crank is damaged, weigh in the engine and get something else.

Unless, of course, the knocking when cold turns out to be hydraulic tappets that need a good clean. Never mind that, pull the sump of anyway. Gives you a nice opportunity to clean and inspect the engine.

[torquey]

I would also replace the oil pump to make sure if it has spun a shell.

[nova_niek]

I would also replace the oil pump to make sure if it has spun a shell.

or at least a damn good clean, but replacing the pump is definitely better.

[Andy]

I would also replace the oil pump to make sure if it has spun a shell.
No no no.
How would the oil pump tell you this?
Only proper way to check crank without removing it is to put plastigauge over each journal,torque up then remove and measure.If its in tolerance,great!
And guess what? that doesn't involve throwing money at it,for an envelope of platigauge is 7quid.
So many times I read people throwing parts at cars on here til they work,this is basic diagnostics were talking about.

[torquey]

For the price of a new one daft not too they are cheap enough for a old 8 v. If they are like the xe/lets the relief valve could of stuck starving the engine of oil. Rather than trying to clean it out which is impossible to know all swarf and dirt is free i would put a new one on it for peace of mind and while the engines out makea sense!!

[Andy]

impossible to clean? aye ok then.

[torquey]

Didnt say it was impossible to clean read what the answer properly! You can clean them but carnt carnt be 100% sure its spotless is what iam getting at!!

[Rob H]

I slightly agree with both of you, no reason you can't clean it out properly, but personally if it was me id replace it along with alot of other stuff like gaskets water pump etc. Gotta think this engine is gonna be in the car for the next 10yrs or so? Worth doing the lot before you put it in imo. Then it's fit and forget, although budget obviously plays a massive part of what can be done and what can't. I've always been a strong believer of doing things right first time round. Although that would mean putting a let in lol.

[Andy]

Didnt say it was impossible to clean read what the answer properly! You can clean them but carnt carnt be 100% sure its spotless is what iam getting at!!
What a load of sh1t.Clean it properly and its clean.
Are you that thorough when you get a bath? "0mg impossible to say if im spotless"
hahaha lol

[Andy]

I slightly agree with both of you, no reason you can't clean it out properly, but personally if it was me id replace it along with alot of other stuff like gaskets water pump etc. Gotta think this engine is gonna be in the car for the next 10yrs or so? Worth doing the lot before you put it in imo. Then it's fit and forget, although budget obviously plays a massive part of what can be done and what can't. I've always been a strong believer of doing things right first time round. Although that would mean putting a let in lol.
If it aint broke....
Remove,clean,measure and then you can have an idea of how worn it is.Last few rebuilds iv done the pumps have been in tolerance so have been refitted.
Water pump and cambelt,aye.
An oil pump is not in any service book in this land.

[torquey]

Know what your saying but from what the guy has said he doesnt have that much mechanical knowledge. So him stripping the pump down and removing the gears i would say it would be easier for him to replace it as its a bolt on job once everything else is removed to get to it.

[Andy]

3 screws removes the gears.it really isn't a difficult job.Shows how in the Haynes too.Feeler gauges and a posi head screwdriver is all that's needed to do that job once its off.
So simple.

[torquey]

I know all i am saying is that its easier to swap than him messing about with cleaning up the old one. If thats what you would do fair enough but everyones different. As of bathing thats getting personal lol.

[Andy]

Lol its just a reference.

[turbojolt]

I would remove the head and replace it with a twin cam head....after that i would remove the bottom end and fit a xe block so on and so forth



:)

[Andy]

Then you wouldnt get it started,when you did you would get points for speeding?? Lol

[turbojolt]

Indeed lol

[Andy]

lol

[Nealos]

Engines up for sale, I'm picking up a redtop tomorrow ;)