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marc69
14-07-14, 10:41 PM
I am trying to drop my gearbox out my xe and have removed the rear engine mount but the engine hasn't dropped enough to get the gearing out, is there something else I need to do for it to lower more?

marc69
14-07-14, 10:55 PM
Could it be the hub/suspension?

Stuart
14-07-14, 10:57 PM
Front mount

marc69
14-07-14, 11:07 PM
Ok, I'll have a look at that tomorrow thanks.

I am reposting here, sorry but I have a replacement box arriving for the weekend, if I can get away with just replacing the gearing I'll try. Is there a code oor anything on the gearnboxes so I will know if they have the same final drive etc?

marc69
15-07-14, 10:47 AM
TOTALLY STUCK!

The front passenger engine mount, the three bolts that attach to the gearbox, two are rounded (the two that are further in the mounting)

The botls where the mount attches to the body, the nut and bolt are in the wrong way so you can't withdraw the bolt as it is facing the gearbox....

ideas please?

meritlover
15-07-14, 10:49 AM
Have you tried a hex socket?

therealnovaboy
15-07-14, 11:15 AM
cut the long bolt in half and get a new one. once you get the gear box out you can get the welder into the three other mount bolts and replace them.

therealnovaboy
15-07-14, 11:17 AM
Have you tried a hex socket?

think they are allen bolts in the gearbox. an extractor might work

marc69
15-07-14, 11:19 AM
Thanks, I removed the radiator so I could hammer 15mm sockets on and its off...at last!

Next question....I have removed the gearing (a pic will follow soon re damage) and cleaned the casing of oil and shrapnel.

Will I need to remove the diff case at the bottom and pour wd 40 or something through or is it unlikely bits will have gotten in there?


Thanks again

marc69
15-07-14, 11:25 AM
Beyond repair......lol

http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af5/69marc/Photo725_zpsc09f0d4b.jpg


Is this caused by bad luck or by aggressive gear changing at Knockhill?

therealnovaboy
15-07-14, 11:40 AM
Rank.

I take it your re using the gearbox casing? you want to be sure its clean. use diesel to flush it out. its cheeper than WD and safer than petrol.

there is an post in the article section that tells you how to ID boxes to tel you the gearset ratios. you can count the teeth on the crown wheel to tell you the FD. Im sure the lines down the teeth tell you as well but not sure what is what.

Stuart
15-07-14, 12:58 PM
woah thats well trashed!!! Looks quite a long way out of alignment too.
imho agressive shifting causes the bronze/brass synchro ring to fail and NOT the actual gear. Something else went awry there :S

marc69
15-07-14, 01:18 PM
The most amazing thing is, once I freed the selector from being jammed, all gears except third were working, amazing!

I'll have a look to see what the final drive crow wheel is and just count the teeth on the old and new one to see if they match, Yes, I am hoping to just have to replace the gearing.

Any opinions on the diff? does the diff plate need to be removed and diesel or wd40 put though it or will I get away with just cleaning the casing?

I have already thoroughly cleaned the casing, once the big bits of junk were removed, the cloths started looking like they were picking up glitter from the bottom of the casing. The casing is all shiny and new looking inside now.

meritlover
15-07-14, 05:18 PM
Is this caused by bad luck or by aggressive gear changing at Knockhill?

Yes

Alan lig
16-07-14, 06:17 PM
I would remove the diff as well as there will be debris in it and the bearings and give them a good wash

Southie
16-07-14, 07:15 PM
Braver man than me, once I'd have seen that I would have been looking for another F20 which was intact and the cleaned it up and just stuck it back on the engine lol

marc69
17-07-14, 01:43 PM
Well I have no choice.....the final drive in the replacement box has 19 splines whilst the old one has 20 so, removal of the whole box ect it is then!

Alan lig
17-07-14, 02:10 PM
At least it will be lighter

marc69
19-07-14, 09:04 PM
That's the gearbox in today, totally exhausted! The car moves but regardless of what gear you think you have.....all up gears are third and all down are fourth..oops



I'll look tomorrow at the selector pinch bolt thing, I hope that is all it is.

meritlover
20-07-14, 08:29 AM
Either the linkage push rods have fallen off/needs set up or you need to remove the selector box and flick the forks to neutral and stick it back on. There wont be much wrong.

marc69
21-07-14, 10:23 AM
You are right, one of the linkage rods had fallen off and was trapped behind the rear engine mount. After a lot of adjustments last night I drove it round the block..at last. Todays jobs are refit the horn/fan check gear oil level etc and I managed to damage the rubber on the driver's hub balljoint so I had better fit a new one too.

Thanks for all the advice and help as always.

marc69
21-07-14, 11:45 AM
Spoke to soon.....I can't find the oil filler level bolt on the F20 gearbox.

I guessed and put in 3 litres of oil but now about a litre has run out on the gap where the driver's (long) driveshaft is (the driveshaft is in it.)



Also my engine oil light is staying on but the engine oil level is fine and the reversing light doesn't work...very weird!

meritlover
21-07-14, 07:04 PM
Did you plug in the reverse light switch?
3L is a lot of oil
Have you checked the oil pressure switch?

Stuart
21-07-14, 07:53 PM
2l is about the norm

marc69
22-07-14, 10:33 AM
The reverse switch is in and I took the drive shaft out and relocated it incase it was leaking and no more oil has leaked so far but I am now more worried regarding the oil light, the car made quite a tappety noise.