Nova GSi Rally Car Build...16 years and counting...

[AndrewC]

Inspired by Tom's build thread that I read last night I'm starting mine. Truth is I meant to start it last year, that was when after about 13 years I picked up this project again after new job, move to Cheshire married, two kids etc. etc.

To start at the beginning, I was mad on rallying going back to the 80's watching Group B's in Sutton Park. My plan was to road rally the Java Green Mini I had at 17 years old. That never happened. A few years passed and after Colin McRae won the Network Q in 1995 I went out and bought a Peugeot 205 GTI. My best mate was a slightly reluctant co-driver but loved our first few outings on airfields and Anglesey. The car was a tidy car but basically a standard road car. I joined Streetly Motor Club and my good friend Chris Wright helped us get going, servicing and preparing the car. We progressed to BTRDA Silver Star but my ambition was to the Gold Star. A Group N ex-Network Q Nova GSi car was purchased from Lepley (don't go there!). In 1998 we finished 3rd in class (not difficult, as I remember only 3 crews racked up any meaningful points all season...still it's one to tell the kids! On the Plains Rally the Nova started to fall apart. The shell gave way at the bulkhead (some dodgy stitched in sections) which http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg1_zps77ffa52b.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg1_zps77ffa52b.jpg.html)IMG]meant the drivers door was almost impossible to open...not good. At Curborough the brakes failed and then finally the engine let go. The car was stripped and a donor car (1989 Nova 1.2) acquired stripped and prepped.

Christ it's 2.30am...more next time...here's my favourite pic

[tomfromdelmonte]

Awesome stuff... so now we know what *was*... what about what *will be*?

[dgbnova#1]

Think he nodded off onto the laptop lol

[novarally]

Awaiting the next episode eagerly......

[AndrewC]

Yes sorry that was a bit of unnecessary history really but may be now I can move things on.:O:O:O

Not found any pics of the shell work. I did most of the stripping the donor car back to rolling shell and then cleaning all the seams for welding, which was a ball ache. The shell was largely rust free but a horrible brown colour. The seam welding and spray to white was done elsewhere with plating for the cage and modification for gearbox access. Don't think it was a full plating kit but it looks tidy enough. The cage is only a bolt in and if I'm honest I don't know where I stand with the current regs on that....original cage etc. Any advice would be welcome...(not got the Blue Book yet...didn't see much point in that expense until we are much further on).

Anyway here's some pics to show what the starting point was this time last year...

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg3_zps33bc2169.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg3_zps33bc2169.jpg.html)
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg2_zps31f5686f.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg2_zps31f5686f.jpg.html)
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg1_zps38ee0a01.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg1_zps38ee0a01.jpg.html)
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg4_zps0a620ebf.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg4_zps0a620ebf.jpg.html)

[dionbee]

Looking forward to the update! :)

[mk1nova_rich]

Looking forward to updates, sounds like it will be very interesting :)

[AndrewC]

Here's the next instalment...So last year I started the build after a long wait. Too many excused to list but suffice to say starring at the covered shell in my garage was beginning to bug me. The pics below are of the bare shell. Seamed welded and sprayed at some cost by someone else as I don't have the skills. The plating was not full HH but should be good enough, the front offside arch inner is also modified for ease of gearbox work. The cage is only a six point bolt in and to be honest I Don't know if that will pass today.

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg3_zps33bc2169.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg3_zps33bc2169.jpg.html)

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg1_zps38ee0a01.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg1_zps38ee0a01.jpg.html)

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg2_zps31f5686f.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg2_zps31f5686f.jpg.html)

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg4_zps0a620ebf.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg4_zps0a620ebf.jpg.html)

[AndrewC]

Tried to add next update but looks like I'm too new! Going off to read instructions...not like me to jump in without reading the manual

[AndrewC]

So the plan was originally just to get the car back on the road but as I have discovered it is too easy to get infected by upgraditis. Now this is the thinking...


1600 8v on carbs, I've got standard bottom end rebuilt and wasn't going to touch that
ported and flowed head and appropriate cam
hoping for say 140hp...think that should be doable
f13/15 quaife synchro box
40% plate diff....max I can use without going for power steering which I wasn't going do yet
uprated shafts with bigger hubs
Alcon brake kit
golf rear disc conversion


Hoping just to spend time getting it right...looking at some NW Tarmac events and back to Anglesey May be.

[_Jake]

stick some steel rods in it with 16v pistons so you can make use of a decent cam :)

[tomfromdelmonte]

So what have u got now, a donor shell and all the parts off the old car or do you still have the old rally car?

[AndrewC]

Scrapped the old rally shell once stripped as it was a total mess, probably 4 different cars stitched together! At least front offside and a rear quarter stitched in to the original GSi shell. Got a mix of old rally car and donor car parts but as the rally car was Group N I need new or second hand performance parts to reach the spec I described. Alan at ProTec has been helpful and I've gone to him for a fair bit if stuff. Lots more pics to post when I can.

[AndrewC]

Thanks...really was hoping not avoid that but sounds like you think false economy

[dgbnova#1]

Were about are you located ?

sounds like you got a plan of attack there bit of recycling also

[AndrewC]

I'm in Northwich and yes there's a fair bit of stuff I could sell on to help fund what I want to do. I just need to pull a list together and clean a few bits up

[philip]

Good too see another local ish lad. Be good too see the build when get cracking. Depending on what happens with a lad im building an xe for. May have a 16v bottoms ended 8v 1.6 on jenveys, mbe, cam, solid lifters, ported head etc for sale. If any interest. Ment too be circa 170/180bhp but id RR before sold to confirm

[sparkie1401]

Stick with it pal.....know where ur coming from...mines 11 uears n counting come may 12th this year....nearly there

[tomfromdelmonte]

So have you got a shell and how far are you planing to go in terms of shell prep, just cage or are you strengthening and seam welding too?

[AndrewC]

Good too see another local ish lad. Be good too see the build when get cracking. Depending on what happens with a lad im building an xe for. May have a 16v bottoms ended 8v 1.6 on jenveys, mbe, cam, solid lifters, ported head etc for sale. If any interest. Ment too be circa 170/180bhp but id RR before sold to confirm

Potentially very interested subject thanks for the message

[AndrewC]

Stick with it pal.....know where ur coming from...mines 11 uears n counting come may 12th this year....nearly there

I've given up stressing too much about time taken but it is getting personal now

[AndrewC]

So have you got a shell and how far are you planing to go in terms of shell prep, just cage or are you strengthening and seam welding too?

The new shell is seam welded with some strengthening (not a full HH plating kit). Also got the front leg modification for access to gear cluster. Painted white in and out like yours but no period graphics! I do like the grey interior in some I've seen but didn't think about that in 2001 when the shell was prepped! The cage is an SD 6 point bolt in. I want to add a weld in brace at the back for extra stiffening and securing belts. I need to check the regs on the cage not sure where I stand these days...any immediate advice? Pics to follow
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg1_zps38ee0a01.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg1_zps38ee0a01.jpg.html)
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg2_zps31f5686f.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg2_zps31f5686f.jpg.html)
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg4_zps0a620ebf.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg4_zps0a620ebf.jpg.html)
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg3_zps33bc2169.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg3_zps33bc2169.jpg.html)

[tomfromdelmonte]

My understanding is that if the cage is based on an approved design (i.e. tube thicknesses may not be as per blue book but the design has been approved by fia/msa) and has a certificate then no you cant add to it. However if all the tube thicknesses are as per the blue book then yes you can add to it.

[tomfromdelmonte]

This thread needs more pictures!

[AndrewC]

Hi Tom...wasn't thinking of adding to the cage, I think a brace between the rear suspension/arches would be good. I was more worried about the fact that it's an old cage, I don't see any stamps on it and certainly don't have a certificate

[AndrewC]

Ok let's see if I can now add photo's. First objective was to get to rolling shell, so cleaned up the front suspension and sprayed with primer. Looking at the other builds I now think that was lazy and will have to finish the bottom arms and anti roll bar properly. Also polybushed suspension (Powerflex Black Series) and rose jointed ball joints from Protec Motorsport. Alan at Protec has been a great help.

One of the bearings was badly worn so replaced that using basic tools as I don't have access to a press. Still felt like a tiny bit of movement in it so not happy but carried on anyway....will come back to that


http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg7_zpsd059054c.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg7_zpsd059054c.jpg.html)


http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg6_zps1f4bfbf6.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg6_zps1f4bfbf6.jpg.html)

[AndrewC]

Gone gone for Bilstein front struts just because that's what I know. I'm sure in due course I will want to upgrade those to adjustable. I fitted alloy top mounts (Compbrake) too, didn't realise I needed to use the standard upper spring plate and damper pad, that was a fiddle. The disc shield has gone now to clear for the four pot calipers.

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg10_zps46d768d2.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg10_zps46d768d2.jpg.html)http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg1_zpse28ba70b.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg1_zpse28ba70b.jpg.html)

[Southie]

Well this is a cracking little thread, I love nostalgia and seeing a Nova resurrected back to form is always a good thing ;)

Subscribed btw so look forward to updates on your progress.

[nova_niek]

Cool, this is going to be interesting. :)

[AndrewC]

Thanks Southie. Not caught up to date on the thread yet...hoping this will motivate me to progress the build, not done much since October last year thanks to work commitments. Been so impressed with some of the stuff on here. Was up till 2am reading the Swiss Track Car thread last night....just excellent

[AndrewC]

Having got the suspension sorted next I turned to braking. I always new the standard setup was going. (I still have all the bits though, the bleed nipples snapped on both standard calipers). I bought a Wilwood 4 pot midilite (I think) from Motorsport-Tools in Pwllehli. Unfortunately despite assurances they didn't fit behind the 15in wheels I bought, so they had to come off and credit to Motorsport-Tools they gave me my £600+ back. They did look good though but Alcons are even better!

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg18_zps3ea8e74d.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg18_zps3ea8e74d.jpg.html)

[AndrewC]

Apparently fitting solid alloy rack mounts helps to make the steering more positive, I guess we'll see. What I do know was it was complete pig to fit them. I had to enlarge the holes on one bracket but I was concerned that would introduce some play. The studs on the bulkhead also need persuading apart with a hammer and wood block to protect the threads. The second bracket then was hammered onto the threads. The rack is rock solid but it will be a bitch to get off again and as I didn't put a quick rack in I may need to do just that...worst case it'll be another £55 for new brackets. Also, there is some kind of dense foam thing that looks like its supposed to go between the rack and the bulkhead, no idea how it fits...any ideas? Photos?

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg9_zps74d234a4.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg9_zps74d234a4.jpg.html)

[dgbnova#1]

The foam goes on before the rack so if you swop it out then you can fit it and it goes flat side down and angle towards the bulkhead you will see when you remove it all looks good so far mate keep it comeing

[therealnovaboy]

foam just shoves on to the rack shaft, so yeah itll need to come back off. atleast you dont have to do it with the engine in.

looks like a clean shell. should be a good build this. keep it up

http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd375/therealnovaboy/IMG_0050.jpg

[AndrewC]

Thanks both, I thought it would be a case of rack off again....do you think a quick rack is good move? Never had one on previous rally cars but I guess it would be sensible?

[bighed]

Wow, loving this. I will be watching closely

[mk1nova_rich]

Thanks both, I thought it would be a case of rack off again....do you think a quick rack is good move? Never had one on previous rally cars but I guess it would be sensible?

Yeh they are well worth the money. Will make a massive difference especially on a rally car although you want to consider an EPAS setup from a Corsa B but with an aftermarket controller to adjust the assistance level.

Most are Quaife 2.5 turns lock-to-lock, although there are 2.1 items but they are very rare. As a cheaper alternative get a steering rack from a late Corsa B - they are 2.7 turns lock-to-lock. Not brilliant but definitely an improvement over the standard rack.

Get some nylon lock stops built into it too :thumb:

[AndrewC]

That's helpful thanks. Will look at the quick rack then...EPAS will have wait. ProTec had a good PAS setup on Justin Lawson's Nova derived from a Saxo I think...
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/7FCCDBA6-00C6-41A3-9AE5-428ABDF63CBC_zps7y9lk4j4.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/7FCCDBA6-00C6-41A3-9AE5-428ABDF63CBC_zps7y9lk4j4.jpg.html)

[novarally]

The Protec set-up will be a Corsa B hydraulic PAS rack, together with a Saxo pump, and custom hoses.

The Corsa steering arms need shortening to fit the track of a Nova, but it's a good conversion.

To be honest though the costs of doing this will be similar to EPS, and the later Corsa EPS column with a quick rack is arguably better for the job.

[mk1nova_rich]

Just to note Nova and Corsa B racks are identical, its only the tie rods that are different (they are interchangeable, Corsa ones are just longer)

[AndrewC]

For so long the car has sat like a wheelbarrow front on axle stands and the rear beam drums and crappy wheels from the donor car. Getting the car onto a second pair of stands the rear beam was dropped off and stripped. I came up with what I thought was a novel way of getting the old bushes out by cutting the outer bit and then drilling into bush. The drill bit finds it's way to the outer edge of the bush then travels round the edge. Eventually the bush pushes out...not ideal but effective. The beam was wired brushed primed and sprayed Satin Black. I've used rattle cans so far but I really probably should invest in a compressor etc.
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg15_zps42d6da4e.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg15_zps42d6da4e.jpg.html)
Smart painted rear beam with a spare in the background!
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg20_zps268db2c6.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg20_zps268db2c6.jpg.html)

[mk1nova_rich]

Thats exactly how I removed my axle bushes lol looking good mate - have you considered a secondary ARB?

[AndrewC]

The first attempt to get the ProTec disc conversion on failed as I could not get both bolts through the alloy bracket supplied into the caliper. A few emails and photos later I got a second set and hey presto on they go. Apparently identical as all from the same CNC set manufacturing there was enough of a error on the first set to stop me in my tracks. Eventually got the Golf discs with new bearings and nut. I can't seem to get the dust cap on to cover the nut, just no space, any ideas? Presumably the bearings will not last long without. The calipers with pads went on quite easily then the leaving me with a nice tidy beam to add back on.
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg22_zps58527247.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg22_zps58527247.jpg.html)

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg24_zps59e01012.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg24_zps59e01012.jpg.html)

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg27_zps0eeb81a0.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg27_zps0eeb81a0.jpg.html)
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg25_zps5710e1cb.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg25_zps5710e1cb.jpg.html)

[AndrewC]

Thats exactly how I removed my axle bushes lol looking good mate - have you considered a secondary ARB?

No I hadn't...need to have or nice to have?

[mk1nova_rich]

Not essential but probably worth considering while the beam is off. Have a look here...

http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?185728-HOW-TO-Fit-a-secondary-rear-ARB-on-a-Nova-beam

[AndrewC]

I've not caught up to date on the thread yet but could do with some advice on how to plumb the tank in the fuel pump etc. Any one got a plumbing diagram for good pics. Tom's thread goes some way in helping but I'm afraid I can't relate to what's inlet or outlet on the tank, the small pipe connection to the filler, breather pipe etc., where the hoses should run...

[dgbnova#1]

What tank and pumps you useing

[AndrewC]

What tank and pumps you useing

Standard GSi tank with Facet Red Top?

[dgbnova#1]

Well fuel pipe you can use 8mm copper pipe for plumbing from bnq screw fix builders yard etc

pipe from tank to pump is the 12 mm pipe in the sender unit this pipe you can buy in 1 m lengths

from the pump then to a dampener if you have one then onto the 8 mm copper

the fuel filter bolts onto the tank front drivers side there is a hole for it to bolt through then it's copper all the way to the engine bay via the hole in the body drivers side front just behind the bottom arm fixing point should be rubber lined if it's still there then the return goes from the back of the footwell floor to the engine via the same hole and at the rear conected to the pipe on the forward part of the tank

standard pump position is on the drivers side rear chassis leg
after all this you're gona say running them internal now lol

[AndrewC]

Thanks but yes I'll be running them internally...at least I know sender to pump bit!

[dgbnova#1]

Basically exactly the same unless your pump is also internal but that's a case of just running it were you want it

[AndrewC]

So here's the beam back on with standard height Tarmac Protec springs. Forgot the poly spring seats though. Guess I'll see if that makes a difference.

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg29_zpsb47d473c.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg29_zpsb47d473c.jpg.html)
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg31_zpsad9f97ac.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg31_zpsad9f97ac.jpg.html)

[AndrewC]

After realising the Wilwoods wouldn't fit behind the wheels I bought, decided to take Alan's advice at Protec and got the Alcon's. They are monsters and I can't help thinking they are a bit OTT. Lots of good builds on here with effective lower cost options. Any way, its done now. I always promised my self a top notch base on which to build..,.and they are that! Tedious job bolting the bells to the discs...can only assume ally bells save weight

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/2B162E54-3034-42EA-A14A-EFDD38FA374A_zps4xzwmnyo.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/2B162E54-3034-42EA-A14A-EFDD38FA374A_zps4xzwmnyo.jpg.html)

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/0D4E53FD-233E-4E2F-9654-D0C5F534C328_zpsxp7mccbf.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/0D4E53FD-233E-4E2F-9654-D0C5F534C328_zpsxp7mccbf.jpg.html)

[AndrewC]

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/83EAE9B8-A434-4318-B9F1-61D14F1D502E_zpsyciddafo.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/83EAE9B8-A434-4318-B9F1-61D14F1D502E_zpsyciddafo.jpg.html)

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg32_zps0e6a4646.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg32_zps0e6a4646.jpg.html)

Took Alan's advice on location if the braided brake lines and bulkhead fittings
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/26AB2534-9B07-4A7B-879B-48AA26C2C6DE_zpstvp6uq9r.jpg

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/C3A9AF35-A406-44FF-ABF0-4AD8A41D8BDA_zps4zxxo7v6.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/C3A9AF35-A406-44FF-ABF0-4AD8A41D8BDA_zps4zxxo7v6.jpg.html)

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/6EBA5B72-CB7E-48FC-B23E-AD46B965B8FF_zpstez1tkao.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/6EBA5B72-CB7E-48FC-B23E-AD46B965B8FF_zpstez1tkao.jpg.html)

Rear line through the bulkhead the a T on the beam


http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/3454306F-86B9-4D91-8258-D7BB23D23980_zpsexdacl8w.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/3454306F-86B9-4D91-8258-D7BB23D23980_zpsexdacl8w.jpg.html)

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/B4382A9D-FE54-4E60-87F5-EFA6F9540DFC_zpsiqtntgtu.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/B4382A9D-FE54-4E60-87F5-EFA6F9540DFC_zpsiqtntgtu.jpg.html)

[AndrewC]

Nearly up to date...loom next with dash...

[dgbnova#1]

It's a tidy build you got there re the fuel pipes you can get bradded ss pipe to run inside and bulkhead fittings prob look better in there or paint the copper pipes and if you are looking for ammo box give me the dimensions you need internally and I will see if my mate has one he's clearing out a load if them and putting on eBay

[AndrewC]

Yes that's what I was thinking. I've got an ammo box but I don't yet know if it's the right size as I don't know exactly what setup I'm putting in. I see some builds with two pumps which I assume is for backup. Looks a plumbing nightmare but could be difference between a class win and DNF. Will let you know if I need box. If you're over Northwich way let me know and drop in.

[AndrewC]

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg33_zps540abd1a.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg33_zps540abd1a.jpg.html)

I started with the donor car loom (1.2 Nova 1989). To be honest I don't know where the GSi loom went. I was not looking forward to this at all. I got various bits from Vehicle Wiring Products, loom tape, wrap, switches, fuse boxes etc. I used the wiring diagrams in Haynes to identify as many pets of the loom as possible and the set about stripping out what I didn't need.



http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/B800505F-DCC3-46E3-BA31-9D13BD390236_zpskkdu86ik.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/B800505F-DCC3-46E3-BA31-9D13BD390236_zpskkdu86ik.jpg.html)
I cut out all the metal I could from the dash without compromising the strength too much. I then made up cardboard templates to plan switch locations etc. and then made up ally panels wrapped in carbon effect stuff. The transfer of the OEM fuses to dash mounted fuse box and relay box. I was quite pleased with the effect, even without flocking the dash. Hoping to go for a Stack dash if I can afford but for now this goes back in the car and loom fed through to engine bay and to back of the car.



http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/F34D1CAE-1818-49EC-9F15-0A569C08EB1B_zpspqz2jmqi.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/F34D1CAE-1818-49EC-9F15-0A569C08EB1B_zpspqz2jmqi.jpg.html)

[AndrewC]

Got some tired Speedline wheels 8 in all off eBay and sprayed 4 up...

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/imagejpg34_zpsf1c1ecfc.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/imagejpg34_zpsf1c1ecfc.jpg.html)

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/2D7C35B8-8615-4B22-A963-1100D2B5AC77_zpsdn4k1cmi.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/2D7C35B8-8615-4B22-A963-1100D2B5AC77_zpsdn4k1cmi.jpg.html)

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/A54AE94A-064C-45DD-AEA1-2363181A34B4_zps10f00vel.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/A54AE94A-064C-45DD-AEA1-2363181A34B4_zps10f00vel.jpg.html)

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/709315BE-18EF-4812-89B7-5C04E80BDA41_zpsl2v8pcfk.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/709315BE-18EF-4812-89B7-5C04E80BDA41_zpsl2v8pcfk.jpg.html)

[phunkynova]

Andrew this is not a criticism but a constructive comment you have spent a small fortune on a impressive brake set up and then put on cheap low end rally tier's !, your brakes will out perform the these tires all day long make the money you spent on them a waste. If you can not afford the tier's to go with the high performance brake may be there is no point in fitting them as you will not be using there full working ability.

[AndrewC]

Phunkynova...I take the point about the tyres but to be honest I just wanted some cheap rubber on the wheels with a view to getting the car rolling and for the first few testing miles. :) I'll get some decent tyres on when needed. Btw what would you run for Tarmac stages? I've run Yoko or Dunlop before

[cb_motorsport]

Hi Andrew, I'm Chris, I'm building / rebuilding / almost finished my Nova rally car (thread is on this page). I run Hankook rubber on mine, I've used them before on a previous car and are excellent (both in Slicks & Wets). New Dunlop competition rubber is now longer available in the UK which a shame because they were a slightly better tyre than the Hankook but more expensive.

I also recommend Pirelli's - used a pair of their RX9 wets on an event last month and found them a good tyre. I picked up a cheap set of 4 Yokohama AO48's and a very cheap pair of AO48's cut full wet in Supersoft compounds (and they are also road legal) so I'll be interested to see what these are like! What ever you do, don't go near Maxsport / Colway / Silverstone unless you want your pride and joy to end up in a ditch!

Cheers

Chris

[phunkynova]

Andrew what Chris is saying Hankook's are good on small car's which is what I use and Dunlop's are just a bit better but cost more.
Please email the this man Tristan Dodd (pectyres@btinternet.com) He has been my motorsport Tyre supplier for the past 30 years what he dose not Know about motor sport tyres is not worth knowing, he has help me and many of my drivers win championships with his advice on the right round black things (tyres).
And Please feel free to use my name in your email, Graham Shiel.
He is also not far away from you he is based in North Wales.

[dionbee]

I can't add to the hankook discussion, but what I can say is that I've used maxsport and they were possibly the worst tyre that i've had on the car..

Build is looking awsome by the way.. keep the updates coming!

Dion

[RallyMarshal]

Agree about the Maxsport comments. Started off on those myself and they egg'd, delaminated the tread and damaged the sidewalls so was false economy.

I then rallied on Yokohamas for a while - A032 and 048s which were 10 times better.

I now run Dunlop CR311s but thats only until my stocks run out and will be switching to Hankooks I suspect. The Dunlop X22 compound is truly excellent for the likes of Epynt and closed roads but alas no more.

If you want a decent budget tyre for single venues and the like, the Dunlop DZ03G trackday type tyre has a good strong sidewall and carcass. A little hard for the rear but good allrounder.

Paul..

[AndrewC]

Andrew what Chris is saying Hankook's are good on small car's which is what I use and Dunlop's are just a bit better but cost more.
Please email the this man Tristan Dodd (pectyres@btinternet.com) He has been my motorsport Tyre supplier for the past 30 years what he dose not Know about motor sport tyres is not worth knowing, he has help me and many of my drivers win championships with his advice on the right round black things (tyres).
And Please feel free to use my name in your email, Graham Shiel.
He is also not far away from you he is based in North Wales.

Cheers Graham. I will sell the Maxsports then. I know PEC Tyres, many years ago your man helped me at Ty Croes on Anglesey when I was having trouble with correct tyre pressures, he the supplied some forest tyres (Bridgestones as I remember) for The Dukeries Rally my first forest event. I'll give him a call

[AndrewC]

Chris, Dion and Paul ... Advice and experience shared much appreciated. As both my previous cars were essentially standard I'm gong to have to remember that's not what I'm building now!!! And not to cut unnecessary corners to save a few quid.

[AndrewC]

This weeks update...

Picked up my recon E16se bottom end, head, cam box, manifolds etc. which have been in the garage at my parent house for the past 15 years. Also picked up my Standard F13 cr box. Feels good to have all this back in the same garage as the car. Cleaned the worst of the crap off stuff and amazingly most bits look serviceable.

Yesterday I also spoke to Bill Falconer to get advice on the engine. I keep revisiting the question of what engine to run, looking at the x14xe builds and thinking that's what I should do. Really like the idea of big power from these engines. But I just cannot justify the cost 5k plus. Bill helped me understand what is possible from a good clubman 1600 8v on weber45s. So I'm now looking for pair of weber45s on a manifold, ignition only ECU and loom (MBE, Omex) if anyone can help with good second hand stuff. That's the way I'm going to go...I just need to get this done now and get out there. Problem is Bill is taking time off and I really would like him to build this for me and set up on his Dyno. For now I will carry on sourcing bits and getting this rolling. Will get my modified hubs back from Protec next week. Quaife rack arrived today too...jobs stacking up

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/A56EA55F-94D8-4853-9316-E164FB362B31_zpsy80o7gqt.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/A56EA55F-94D8-4853-9316-E164FB362B31_zpsy80o7gqt.jpg.html)

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/6B41219C-2813-43A7-9989-0BC2BA0BC87C_zps5l3pstgr.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/6B41219C-2813-43A7-9989-0BC2BA0BC87C_zps5l3pstgr.jpg.html)

[RallyMarshal]

If the Dukeries (my home event - I will be in a course car up front) is your first then Id look at 2 options..

Dunlop SP85s are very good.. http://www.mrtyremotorsport.com/dunlop-sp85.asp but quite expensive.

New option just on the market that I may be trying shortly on roadrallies in my Astra is the Maxxis R19 which is apparently a budget but extremely good tyre unless its REALLY muddy which it wont be on the Dukeries.

Dan @ Mr Tyre (contact details on the Dunlop site) can supply them now and Dave Brick won his class (1400c for 1400cc 8v cars) on the Somerset Stages using them by a considerable margin.

Paul..

[cb_motorsport]

If any of you guys are looking at different compounds of tyres then this site may be of use http://www.vanhoofsport.nl/includes/img.asp/id,150/Hankook%20compound%20comparison.pdf

[AndrewC]

If the Dukeries (my home event - I will be in a course car up front) is your first then Id look at 2 options..

Dunlop SP85s are very good.. http://www.mrtyremotorsport.com/dunlop-sp85.asp but quite expensive.

New option just on the market that I may be trying shortly on roadrallies in my Astra is the Maxxis R19 which is apparently a budget but extremely good tyre unless its REALLY muddy which it wont be on the Dukeries.

Dan @ Mr Tyre (contact details on the Dunlop site) can supply them now and Dave Brick won his class (1400c for 1400cc 8v cars) on the Somerset Stages using them by a considerable margin.

Paul..

Sorry I misled you....The Dukeries was my first forestry event back in 1996! Won't be there this year I'm afraid. I have used SP85s before and they were good although I'm comparing against part worn Yokohama that I got from some boys running much higher up the field!! That taught me just what a difference new forest tyres with a sharp shoulder on can make

[AndrewC]

Any ideas on how to get the bearing off the steering pinion? Without damage? I'm fitting the Quaife quick rack that arrive this week and I assume I can reuse the bearing if I can get it off.

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/E6AAC670-AAF2-4D15-B850-316E5A214230_zpsebuyrkaf.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/E6AAC670-AAF2-4D15-B850-316E5A214230_zpsebuyrkaf.jpg.html)

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h295/Andrewjcooper71/2DD60085-1FF0-4BF1-A285-15041B1E16FE_zpshnzvurcx.jpg (http://s67.photobucket.com/user/Andrewjcooper71/media/2DD60085-1FF0-4BF1-A285-15041B1E16FE_zpshnzvurcx.jpg.html)

[Novasport]

Bearing is crimped on. I went to a bearing supplier and they found me a suitable bearing as you cannot get them seperately from Vauxhall.
You will probably destroy it if you try and remove the original.

[tomfromdelmonte]

Andrew buy a new one they are only about 4 quid from any bearing supplier! there is a guide in here in the how-to section that explains how to fit a quickrack, you also need some large unusual sized spanner.

guide is here:

http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?98711-*HOW-TO*-Install-a-quickrack-with-engine-in-situ

[AndrewC]

Novasport and Tom thanks....you beat me to it! I love this forum...the answer is there in perfect detail. Just ordered a bearing from Simply Bearings in Lancs. Next problem is tightening the tie rods to the rack...the gap to access the flats on the rack is so narrow I can't get the 18mm spanner in!

[phunkynova]

Not sure what you mean but if it's what I believe your asking can you not just wind the rack out to one side tighten that side then wind the other side out and do that one.

[_Jake]

Novasport and Tom thanks....you beat me to it! I love this forum...the answer is there in perfect detail. Just ordered a bearing from Simply Bearings in Lancs. Next problem is tightening the tie rods to the rack...the gap to access the flats on the rack is so narrow I can't get the 18mm spanner in!
buy another 18mm spanner and grind it down

[AndrewC]

Brilliant ! Thanks Jake... Just got the grinder on an old 18mm and it works perfectly

[AndrewC]

Bit of an update this week....put the steering rack back in, now a quaife quick rack 2.5 turned lock to lock. It went back on with the alloy solid mounts much easier than before which is good. Managed to source a few bits this week, orders placed for MBE9A4i ECU from Yukspeed, polycarbonate door windows from Templar Performance. Still looking for the Weber 45s, missed one already which was annoying. Might have some news on sccr gearbox....more later in the week. Still not got the fuel sorted but hoping to plan that out this week and order what I need. Will I need a swirl pot? What for?

[RallyMarshal]

Dazz150 on Migweb has some Webers for sale..

http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/items-sale/653210-breaking-astra-gte-rally-tarmac-spec.html

Paul..

[AndrewC]

Dazz150 on Migweb has some Webers for sale..

http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/items-sale/653210-breaking-astra-gte-rally-tarmac-spec.html

Paul..

Thanks....just tried to register to send him a message but apparently I'm a Spammer, which is news to me!!!

[dgbnova#1]

Did you try texting him his number is at the bottom of his first post lol
tel:07931555083

[AndrewC]

Did you try texting him his number is at the bottom of his first post lol
tel:07931555083

B******s.....wasn't paying attention....I'll try now

[dgbnova#1]

Shoulda gone to spec savers then lol

[AndrewC]

These arrived in the post today...

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/01/5e5u3aha.jpg

GrpA Hubs...machined, big bearing and F20 hubs. Problem is I dry fitted them the off side and there seems to be excessive play...I'm assuming there should be little or no play at all...surely I should be able to put the disc and wheel to roll the shell without any problem right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[therealnovaboy]

wait until their is a drive shaft in them. youll find the play will go away once the castle nut is tightened up.

dont put wheels on them/ use them without a driveshaft in them and torqued up or youll **** them

[dgbnova#1]

I second that rolling with no cv fitted is not good for the bearing if you have one just fit the cv only if the shafts not fitted if it is tighten the castle nut up on it

[TallDave]

Nice to see another Rally Nova being built, pity none of them seem to be being used yet (None out at Abingdon next weekend)..


....more later in the week. Still not got the fuel sorted but hoping to plan that out this week and order what I need. Will I need a swirl pot? What for?

As you are using carbs, you won't need a swirl pot, or a high pressure pump, so money saved there then! It'd be a different story if you were to fit Throttle Bodies though.

For info the swirl pot removes any air in the fuel fed from the tank, usually caused by the the fuel in a part filled tank swilling about in tight/long corners, which allows to air get into the fuel line. Carbs deal with this as they have there own fuel bowl controlled by a float valve (which is why they have to be installed level). Throttle bodies just fuel the engine direct, fuel or air its all the same, except the air isn't good for smooth running or even engine life?

[AndrewC]

Thanks for the advice on the new hubs. Saved me from another school boy error. Only got standard shafts so on the hunt now for some suitable ones. Hockley want £780+vat for a pair of GrpA shafts. Elite Transmissions in Stoke want half that for a pair which seems more reasonable. Hope to pick up the f13 Quaife box on Friday so will think about shaft after that.

Thanks to Boffer8 (Ben) I took delivery of his GrpA head yesterday. That hopefully gives me some options. I would really like to have a go at the engine build but I don't know that I've got the skills to do it right. Bought a Sealey engine stand with that intent but I'm worried I'll waste time and money. On the other hand I'll learn more having a go...???


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/04/setevame.jpg

Also got two one piece polycarbonate windows with sliders this week. Just need the rubber to fit. Will follow the How To on here.

Finally thought I'd share some photos I found of the old shell before it was stripped. You can see the distortion in the shell from the gap that emerged around the door and other repairs made to the front end. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/04/edasyja2.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/04/e2u3etug.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/04/uteruta7.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/04/u4a7uryp.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/04/ha9e4atu.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/04/mybumy4a.jpg

[AndrewC]

Nice to see another Rally Nova being built, pity none of them seem to be being used yet (None out at Abingdon next weekend)..



As you are using carbs, you won't need a swirl pot, or a high pressure pump, so money saved there then! It'd be a different story if you were to fit Throttle Bodies though.

Cheers TallDave this helps. Will try and draw a plan for fuel lines now so I can get the fittings ordered.

Always wanted to do Abingdon having spectated there years ago. Looks like a good weekend.

[cb_motorsport]

Cheers TallDave this helps. Will try and draw a plan for fuel lines now so I can get the fittings ordered.

Always wanted to do Abingdon having spectated there years ago. Looks like a good weekend.

if any of you guys are going to spectate there this weekend then come and say hello! I'm codriving in an ex JWRC Suzuki Swift S1600, always good to put a face to a name!

Cheers

Chris

[nova_niek]

Damn! That shell has been through a good battering! :eek:

[AndrewC]

Good job it's now in Nova heaven!

[AndrewC]

Fitted one polycarbonate window last night after one previous failed attempt. I followed the "How To..." in the Articles section more or less. I got the windows from Templar Performance, about £100 for the pair plus £40 for the seals from Sealsdirect. Took 25mm off the bottom with neat round corners but didn't need to take any off the forward edge. Tried various methods if fitting but in the end putting the seal on, trimming to fit and then dropping into the door from the top worked. Once in the door then moved up into place feeding the seal onto the door starting at the top edge, then down the front, then back and finally bottom edge. The seal fitted all around, didn't have to leave the front edge as "how to" suggests and the mirror fits (minus a piece of trim I missing anyway!). Jobs a good 'un I hope.

[AndrewC]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/12/y2uhadys.jpg

[tomfromdelmonte]

Looks tidy that does. I made a pigs ear of mine so will be re-doing it. Im going to screw/bond to the outer edge and put some adhesive edging strip around to give the appearance of having a seal.

[dgbnova#1]

I had a look at this today lovely car and great build will be nice when it's done sorry for waffling lol

[AndrewC]

Cheer Tom

And cheers Dave, was good to chat and thanks for the advice on shafts and other bits

[dgbnova#1]

No probs any time I'm sure I'm right with them but worth posting the question i would think

[AndrewC]

Time for an update. Picked up the sccr Quaife gearbox from Chester a couple of Fridays ago including a Helix clutch plate. Probably looking at dropping the ATB diff out and moving to a plate diff with big side gears so I can use GrpA shafts. If you've seen the thread I started on shafts you'll know I picked up some bear shafts assuming I could add Harry Hockley CVs. Turns out the guy I bought them off knew full well the spline length is different to HH shafts...git. Anyway Hockley are looking into it and we should get it to work.
Bottom end on the stand now so I can change to ARP rod bolts. Tempted to try the engine build myself but would need to source a rally cam and valve gear. I'd appreciate any advice on that. Do I go Kent, Newman or other? What about valve gear for the Blydenstein head?
Still short of 45s and manifold but did get MBE Ignition only ECU, loom and coil...

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/27/7y7ena5a.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/27/3u9e8u6u.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/27/nuzu6aty.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/27/qydyty4e.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/27/pyqyve4y.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/27/y6uga5y2.jpg

[dgbnova#1]

Guy on Facebook selling 45s seen it today I think not sure what manifold
Speak to Philip for your cams etc he can advise and supply the bits for you plus advise on your re build

[phunkynova]

Don't just buy 45 Weber's over 40's thinking that they will give you more power they DON'T work like that. 40's might work better on your car than 45's. 40 DCOE's come standard with 30mm choke size and you increase the choke to suit your engine.
For example my 1.4 8valve with around 135 bhp needs 40's on 32mm chokes.

[tomfromdelmonte]

I have 45s on my 1.6 16 valve with 34mm chokes. If you over carb the engine you lose some of the ram charging effect given by having higher airflow velocity. Either way though i would go with whatever BF reccommends as he knows his stuff.

As phunky said there is a guy selling some 45s on the PNG facebook page. I have some newman cams i got from Phillip, im rebuilding my engine at the moment as i (think i) spun a bearing and will be fitting the newmans.

Gearbox looks awesome... very very jealous!

[AndrewC]

Cheers Dave, Phunky & Tom...following up in the Facebook Webers. Phunky...as Tom suggested I'm following a "shopping list" from Bill F but take your point. Will get in touch with Phillip too.

[boffer8]

Hi Andy, sorry I have not got back to you in regards to the cams, I have been so rushed with work and am now in the Middle East until the 6th, on my return I will dig them out and get the info for you.

thanks
ben

[AndrewC]

No problem Ben. I'm in no rush don't even know if I'm gonna do the build myself yet!

[tomfromdelmonte]

Do it yourself.. look at all the fun im having lol

[AndrewC]

What might be the benefits of a 1.4 sump on a E16SE engine? I believe Bill F does this but not clear why?

[dgbnova#1]

Only think I can think of is ground clearance and ability to bring up the lower part of the exhaust or poss more space for a 4-2-1 manifold

[AndrewC]

Would be using standard manifold. I wondered if it was baffled differently and therefore some reduction in oil surge?

[dgbnova#1]

Don't think it has the same plate you get with the 1.6 not sure

[AndrewC]

Trying to source ARP rod bolts. They are M8 but apparently there two thread pitch options 1.0 and 1.25. How do I know what I've got?

[dgbnova#1]

If you take the old ones out use a thread gauge to check them or take one to an bolt supply lloyd and jones, websters, Bestco are local ones to me not sure what you have near you they can check the pitch for you

[AndrewC]

Ok so a slight change to the plan which feels a bit of a cheat. Following the lead on the Webbers on Facebook led me to get the carbs, manifold and the rest of the engine too!http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/05/uqagevat.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/05/a8uzanag.jpg

The engine spec is standard bottom end, rally cam, solid lifters, double valve springs, ported and flowed head. Starter alternator and recent belt, also a free paddle clutch also included. Apparently set-up with Bogg Bros giving out 138bhp. Obviously will lose the distributor with MBE which may get me a bit more out of it. So plan now is to check it over, clean it up. Then get it mated to the Webbers again and Quaife gearbox and in on new ProTec mounts. Hopefully I can then get the car running and rolling, meaning I can then build the other engine up myself to my chosen spec separately.

[dgbnova#1]

That was a good find then plus a good spare when you have built yours up

[tomfromdelmonte]

Fantastic news! youre getting there now. Engine sounds pretty good, would be interested to know what sort of cam is in it, are there any markings? One thing to watch out for, might be worth counting the splines on your paddle clutch and the quaife box as i have heard that they can be different? i think the two variations out there are 19T and 22T. Have you got a strengthening kit fitted to your chassis? i also have the protec solid mounts here, ready to be fitted when the engine goes back in. Ive noticed that the engine mount bolt fouls on the chassis plate so need to get rid of the cap headed bolt, use a hex head and also probably grind a bit away on the chassis to get enough clearance for the bolt. Also the engine bracket has 2 holes and the protect mount has 1 bolt so may need to weld a bit onto the engine bracket.

[conza123]

What size are your wheels u borought and would u sell just 1 as looking for 5th spare :)

[AndrewC]

Tom...here's a pic of the cam markings. Compared to the standard the lobes are definitely taller and fatter...not a technical description but you know what I mean.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/06/yja7ahet.jpg

Conza...I've got 8 15" and planned to keep them sorry. If you are desperate I will sell but to be honest they are not in the best condition anyway.

[AndrewC]

Spent some time checking over the "new" engine and cleaned it up a bit. Sprayed the block, rocker cover and sump. ARP con rod bolts should be here Fridayhttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/09/2eqejapa.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/09/upy3a5e7.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/09/ge5ybabe.jpg

Additional pics of lift and breadth of cam lobes

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/09/utagazu5.jpg

[conza123]

Tom...here's a pic of the cam markings. Compared to the standard the lobes are definitely taller and fatter...not a technical description but you know what I mean.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/06/yja7ahet.jpg

Conza...I've got 8 15" and planned to keep them sorry. If you are desperate I will sell but to be honest they are not in the best condition anyway.
pm'd u

[AndrewC]

ARP bolts turned up today. Don't know why I'm nervous about doing this job but I am. I think it's the business of chamfer for the almost invisible radius under the bolt head. Anyway removed the first OE bolt and tried the ARP one in... http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/11/3e6urube.jpg

[tomfromdelmonte]

You just going to torque them up or you going to use plastigauge to check the clearance?

Are you sure you need to chamfer the caps? if you do them just get a countersink bit on a drill and give it a quick whizz with that :)

[AndrewC]

There looks to be a little 1mm chamfer in the hole anyway but to be sure a quick but careful whizz will be all that's needed. Just going to follow instructions and in the absence of a stretch gauge I will just torque them up

[AndrewC]

ARP con rod bolts are in...and a pic to show how much chamferhttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/12/utu7uzeb.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/12/usysa5uh.jpg

Also please to note the mod in the sump. Looks like the baffle described in the Nova Competition Build...

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/12/yteqeqy4.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/12/yhevuhab.jpg

[AndrewC]

Now the Quaife ATB is out...ready for a HHMS 40% Tarmac spec plate diff with large side gears for GrpA shafts. Not got all that yet but it's on ordered two weeks ago...still waiting Mr Hockley...

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/18/su2uqe6y.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/18/u8u3yreq.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/18/eza5ydaz.jpg

[AndrewC]

Finally the Hockley bits arrived. Now need to make up the shafts and get the plate diff in.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/29/rydeqapy.jpg

[nova_niek]

Shiny bits mmmm :thumb:

[tomfromdelmonte]

What he said... shiny bits... niiiiiiiiice

[AndrewC]

Today's delivery...will stop spending for a bit now...http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/01/bu6a3ese.jpg

[Connor]

Lovely seats and harnesses, how much did they set you back?

[AndrewC]

Lovely seats and harnesses, how much did they set you back?
I thought they were a bargain compared to some deals from well know Motorsport parts dealers. The seats and belt were £499+vat from Motorsport-Tools.com....the brackets are extra but that's usual

[millworm]

motamec are really good for the money, I've used a lot of their parts on my car

[BRoadGhost]

Ooo a gated sump

[AndrewC]

Ooo a gated sump
Hoping that's a good thing...

[AndrewC]

Ok, so it's been a while....another year ticked over and a good 6 months since I last posted on the build. Stuff getting in the way including: now a big move down to Cambridge which is imminent; Buying and running my 7 year old a kart; lots of crap at work etc etc. Any way, progress now in the shape of built up Harry Hockley big shafts, gearbox mated with engine...
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/26/813abf24818e94eba31fd92a830f09c9.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/26/d71c43f8ce18feb02c4e81f345c16cea.jpg

Borrowed me an engine crane and I'm hoping to get the engine and gearbox in tomorrow, then shafts fitted torqued up and rolling too.

[TallDave]

Andrew

Nice to hear from you again, I was beginning to miss news of other competition build....

After a little digging, I found out that the front brake set up you are running are Alcons, they look enormous but I believe you are also running 15" rim size, so if you don't mind me asking what size of disc are you using?

[AndrewC]

Hi Dave...Yes they are Alcons under 15" Speedlines. The disc size is 295mm and the brakes were sourced from ProTec. I've had to use 5mm spacers for the rims to clear the calipers. I think they are B type calipers and I've not yet decided which pads too use. Pagid seems to be a favourite....any thoughts folks??

[AndrewC]

Where do I go from here?...dropped engine and box in from above, now thinking it should have been from below and the lifted up into the bay. Had to take the crankshaft pulley off. Not sure now of the sequence of attaching mounts. Which way does the bolt through the top mount go? Nut into the bay? Top gearbox mount next? Suggestions welcome...

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/28/ff3aa398245423d1095df7ff86437323.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/28/7549a9a44b93b28c14769771eb7b123b.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/28/6a3b6d9c9230b1adce8dc247812256cb.jpg

[AndrewC]

Really wish I was a proper mechanic not a bumbling amateur....now got two mounts on but now rear mount doesn't line up. Three different holes on top drivers side mount....guess I chose the wrong one.

[Iain]

Top hole I'd pick on solid mounts, good chance you need to modify 1 or 2 mounts to get the engine sitting right on aftermarket mounts tho, my XE one ended up slotted on the rear and with a new hole between 1 and 2 on the front mount

[Benn]

Dropping the engine in or lifting it in wont affect lining up of mounts. I go from the top everytime.

You'll need to sit and wiggle the engine about to get it lined up. Looks like its to far forward and twisted back...
I'd say pull (so it rotats) the rocker cover forward towards the slam panel.

[AndrewC]

Thanks Iain & Benn

I think I will remove the bracket from engine and top mount and try the forward most hole and hopefully that will twist it a few degrees to the right (from front) which should help. I did rotate forward enough to get two of three mounts secured but it does need to come further forward and twisted. Will have another go tonight...

[phunkynova]

Andrew C if they are Pro-tec solid mounts they do not fit with out some modification.
1: The bolts that go through the middle of the solid mounts are bigger than standard ones you need to check and modify if needed your holes in the chassis
2: On my rally car the back gear box one needed a lot of work to line it up I had to elongate the hole in the metal bracket to slide the solid mount more forward but the you must cut some alloy or metal away on the front edged ie the alloy into a u/v shape to pass to the metal bracket or the metal bracket square to pass to the alloy mount.
3: you will need new long bolts for the back gearbox to chassis mount (be careful these are not standard thread).
4: leave all 3 mounts and fasting bolts very loss with lots of free play in they until you have all bolts in every point then tighten.

[AndrewC]

Cheers phunkynova. I am celebrating a landmark, the engine and gearbox are in and rock solid on the Protec solid mounts. Little modification required to open the alternative hole on the top mount bracket. The sequence in the end was front gearbox mount, rear gearbox bracket onto box then onto mount and finally top mount (mount in chassis the bracket on engine. All bolts loose then tightened as suggested. Happy bunny...shafts in tomorrow maybe
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[Jonesfach]

Well done. Gathering some momentum.:)

[AndrewC]

Cheers Jonesfach...two steps forward yesterday, one step back tonight. Put the short HH driveshaft in only to find the bolt on the TCA uniball is fouling on the outer CV. Grrrrr. Does this mean modifying the hub? uniball? CV? Or all three. No time for these hiccups, http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/03/2ce11e4774caaad2ca40c4f8d31d87bd.jpgI've got to get this rolling in the next three weeks or transporting to Cambridge is going to be difficult. Protec modified hubs for big shafts HH supplied the CVs...will be phoning both tomorrow for advice...

[dgbnova#1]

Well does the ball joint have a standard grove for the pinch bolt ? Standard nova ball joints don't thread via the top so no allowance for a nut up there

[therealnovaboy]

You have to run shorter bolts and slim nuts because you are using bigger outer cv joints. they sell them on superFWD. http://superfwd.com/pro-pins

failing that get a 12.8 bolt and put it down rather than up so that the thinner head of the bolt is under the CV joint. However that will mean you will have to remove the CV Joint to fit/remove the ball jointm bolt. however you could still remove the ball joint if needed. you could probably grind down the bolt head till it fits and still be enough strength in the bolt. but that is your decision.

the bolt you are using doesnt look like a 12.8 grade bolt? looks stainless?

[dgbnova#1]

Is it a bolt looks like it's part of the ball to me as that looks like a nut at the bottom not the head of a bolt ?

[fearless]

Might be work checking drive shaft plunge before you start modifiying anything - if you end up fitting a spacer between the cv joint and the flange/bearing to correct plunge, you may not have a problem with the uniball nut ;)

[therealnovaboy]

you shouldnt have much of an issue with plunge if you are running bigger cv joints.

[AndrewC]

Thanks folks.....useful stuff. The pin is stainless, no separate bolt and my best bet looks to be the SuperFWD Pro Pin. Assume they will fit the uniball. Don't tease want to get the grinder out. The point of the uniball was to strengthen things,
No idea on how to check plunge. I assumed following fairly standard rally upgrades I'd be ok.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/04/90e849e0140cb72c148fdd949a439c73.jpg

[therealnovaboy]

slightly different construction to what i was thinking. you cant grind the bolt youve got or youll lose the nylock. You only have a few options really.

get the super FWD bolt.
check the punge however its usually only a 5-8mm spacer and probably not enough.
turn down the boss you have and put a hole up the middle and fit a bolt down through the middle with a thinner head between the hub and the CV joint.

you need to work out the plunge with the car at the final ride hight. slacken the castle nut on the hub and see how far the cv joint pushes in towards the gearbox. you really need to know the optimum plunge depth then spacer the outer cv joint till it is right. Its usually only the short shaft that fails so id just measure the plunge on the long shaft and get them the same. however this might not be possible for you as you will need spacers on both sides.

If you are running bigger CV joints breaking them wont be an issue from having the wrong plunge. If you have lock stops too then it wont be an issue. You might find that you have enough depth on the CV joint that you can get away with a spacer to give you enough clearence but you would have to know the optimum plunge for the full susspension/wheel lock travel, which is not easy.

[dgbnova#1]

Andrew us that pic your actual uni ball ?
If so why not use the threw pin to clamp it in place then a spring washer and thinner bolt on the top as extra if you think it needs it

tbh most rally teams would drill and fit a locking pin through the nut to make sure it cannot come undone

[AndrewC]

Spoke to Martin at Harry Hockley yesterday. Apparently plunge with big shafts should be no more than 18mm. I'll check that after back on all four wheels. For now I've order the pro pins from SuperFWD. Got nothing to lose now in grinding down pin and nut which I will try this weekend. At least if it works I'll have spares.

Also orders set of Pagid RS-4 Blue pads for the Alcons, will get DOT 5 fluid too. Really hope to have a rolling Nova soon...

A long time ago I was stressing about the play in the bearings. I was relieved to find all play disappeared when I tightened the short shaft the other day exactly as therealnovaboy told me it would;)

[kenny_afh]

you shouldn't have any problems grinding down the threaded end for clearance, and running a half nut. as has been said previously the standard balljoints don't have this, and the weight is taken by the clamping force of the pinch bolt primarily and the shoulder for the pinch bolt after that, the nut on top is just added security. ive seen plenty cut down for clearance and some cut off completely altho id try to keep something there if at all possible. drilling it for lock wire would be an additional step if you wanted it. also as fearless pointed out, the spacer for the plunge might help the situation also. car looks fantastic Andrew, keep up the good work!

[AndrewC]

Cheers Kenny, much appreciated. Anyway, the ProPins arrived and in my haste to check them out I tapped one into the big rose joint and now it's stuck fast. Here's the other one for interest...

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/12/4144f11066ba6801c48f25405bd50147.jpg

So that means I'm committed now to using them and it look very much like they will need a tickle with the grinder to fit too.

Got these yesterday too for the Alcons...
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/12/212b99c11c27cf4a76aebe7b094d140e.jpg

And treated myself to a bottom cabinet for the growing collection of kit...

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/12/873b6a6f78edc789759614a9cbbbe422.jpg

Expensive week!

[AndrewC]

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/13/c96ab071e6ce05eda1d1971a42e90427.jpg

Alan at ProTec said a miss is as good as a mile...hope he is right coz that's very close. I used the grinder to reduce the nut on the ProPin by half...

[AndrewC]

Been a while so time for an update...and a few pics. We've now moved from Cheshire to Cambridgeshire so these pics were from the end of May when I needed the car on the trailer (thanks Phil).
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/20/6cc9487f9596cee5a1c7c29db73a9007.jpg
Alcon's back on finally, 5mm spacer needed to clear the Speedlines. Not sure that's a final fit but good enough for the move.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/20/4f68284448bb5ea031beffdda307755f.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/20/5124f2d6fe84c302aedcaca6b8881be9.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/20/46ad775a13a923c2ffdb9a7bfd631b3c.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/20/bf775d571e51ba96621634a064f8cddf.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/20/c4ecf2fc4fd4e8ce66012987d0119c71.jpg

It moves!! Out of the garage for the first time in nearly 8 years and on a trailer heading for holiday in Suffolk then new house in Cambridge.
I've made a decision to get help to complete this now with the aim of being on track early next year....if not before. Feels like a bit of a cheat but if I don't it may never get done...more news soon I hope.

[Will F]

There's something about a fresh white Gsi without any bumpers... lol

Very nice mate.

[AndrewC]

Thanks Will...bumpers need shipping from Staffs. Wondering whether to keep them white or get some colour on them....any suggestions? Charcoal grey or red?

[Will F]

Keep it as God intended.. Lol

[Andy]

White novas with red bumpers look awesome

[BRoadGhost]

By awesome he means shockingly bad. ~ it's only the rubber boot gaiter anywhere near the UJ nut / bolt; even a slight touchy touchy would soon bed in. I went 3 bolt Corsa B bottom ball joint & haven't looked back.

[AndrewC]

Brief update...she goes to Relentless Performance next month for an overdue sprint to the finish (thanks Jonlem). Can't wait...
In the meantime...I splashed out to refurb 4 of the 8 very tired Speedlines I bought sometime ago....you won't believe how good they look....hope you like...http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/09/69b2d72be667dbb137871368925503c0.jpg

[Benn]

Wheels look great.

[saloonwoody]

nice looking build , if you have jonlem on side you wont go far wrong either ;)

[nova_niek]

Alloys have come up nicely. :thumb:

[AndrewC]

So the car is now with Jonlem and stuff is happening [emoji16]. Visited to get the seat positions sorted and that required some butchery of the front cross member to be replaced by welded box. Seat will be as low as possible so tube mounts I bought will be useless.

Some new shiny bits bought or coming...
Fuel filter and bracket to set up the pumps to be boxed inside. To save complex plumbing will use connector below. Throttle linkage now on the carbs...

Decided to relocate battery inside behind co-driver with Anderson plug. Battery will be an Odessy unit.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/224851a4e2de4332227f3fe4fa1a9f1d.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/bd19aa391b507e44fa8a750ecd8acdb4.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/935d884dc4433965b0b9d04abb8ea9ba.jpg

[Iain]

Do you mean the strengthening that runs the width of the interior or are you having a mad Max style seating arrangement on the front? Ha ha

Fuel pump set up looks good, when do you get it back from jonlems?

[AndrewC]

Do you mean the strengthening that runs the width of the interior or are you having a mad Max style seating arrangement on the front? Ha ha

Fuel pump set up looks good, when do you get it back from jonlems?

Yes the strengthening between the inner sill and the tunnel. I think under normal conditions the seat mounts would clear the strengthening bit I'm 6ft 2 and the seat has to go low such that the mounts interfered with it. Anyway it's cut out now so no going back. I'm guessing it'll be back with me in the new year then hoping to get out at Bedford or Snetterton.

[AndrewC]

Seat subframes now in and rear brace too (to double as anchor for belts too. One set of tube mounts used for the passenger seat and a nice job on the drivers side...not my handy work I hasten to add. Also new bells for the discs.
Need to decide on gauges or dash display. I wanted to keep thinks simple but upgrade from the standard ones. Thinking about the Stack ST700 with speedo and oil pressure and water temp. We'll see...

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160117/45ac03bcd95b4ada2eb1469994638650.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160117/589549344cec10a43ce5343a8be0ba81.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160117/2f2b8d40bccf385bfc1a426c59337325.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160117/62d65ba8ee6ae1298cb713fba9a953c7.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160117/f7e91ecf4bae7e1c523336fb03a615e4.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160117/65e3d6b5a6d8197971d52d7f14cbf8f9.jpg

[toymex]

What discs are you using ? Bells look nice ,might have to have a chat with James

[AndrewC]

What discs are you using ? Bells look nice ,might have to have a chat with James

The discs are the 295mm Alcon ones. To be completely honest I'm not sure what the issue was with the original bells. I know things were a little tight in terms of clearances. These are the original...http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160118/fd405abb49429cb3f756ebfa3f4becf3.jpg

[Benn]

Loving the brakes.

[nova_niek]

Loving the brakes.
+1

[Jonlem]

The Alcon kit uses a 28 x 25.4 rotor, for whatever reason the uniball fouls on the back side of the disc, in most cases not until the car rolls a little but in Andrews case its already left a score in the disc just from pushing the car around.

I spoke with HH about this as we had the same issue on a nova and corsa and they said to grind the uniball body until it clears, I didn't like that idea so we had these bells done and then modify the exisiting bracket to counteract the change in disc offset.

[AndrewC]

Thanks James. Much more helpful than my vagueness!

[Benn]

Reading what James said, now i notice how much offset the bell has.. looks like a huge amount.

[Jonlem]

Reading what James said, now i notice how much offset the bell has.. looks like a huge amount.

3mm difference to the HH one, just gives enough clearance to the rotor.

[AndrewC]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160123/861cecdd47d9f033a347f748d1a63d7d.jpg

This will be sat behind the drivers seat...with an Odessy battery with Anderson plug behind the co-driver...

Her she is now resting on stands awaiting some bay action soon...

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160123/55d786d0ba5abf19d69fa0dc151bf971.jpg

[AndrewC]

Fuel lines and battery cables in. Pumps and battery located too
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160126/a6e5525cca16b736ba3e4b790bcaf8b3.jpg
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[AndrewC]

Just spotted this on Hockley's Faceache page...superb car...

https://www.facebook.com/Harry-Hockly-Motorsport-Ltd-595289830606276/?pnref=story

[tanogc]

it is becoming very well !! gradually everything is done and be spectacular !!!!!

[Iain]

I remember reading somewhere its not good for the battery +ve to run through the killswitch. Maybe to do with the amps. May be duff info though

I like your bulkhead connector but not the fact it exposes a live where they wouldn't otherwise be one, is there a little cap for it?

Are you going to install some 'remote jumper posts' if your battery is not easily accessible behind the seat, for quick jumpstarts if necessary? :)

[Jonlem]

I remember reading somewhere its not good for the battery +ve to run through the killswitch. Maybe to do with the amps. May be duff info though

I like your bulkhead connector but not the fact it exposes a live where they wouldn't otherwise be one, is there a little cap for it?

Are you going to install some 'remote jumper posts' if your battery is not easily accessible behind the seat, for quick jumpstarts if necessary? :)

I can answer your queries Iain

The isolator also controls the ignition side using the 4 poles on the back, it's a msa requirement as your usual isolator when switched off will just leave the engine running off the alternator, they're a simple device and I prefer them over any electric type cut off.

All the battery lives have a boot which are not currently fitted as I've got to strip everything off for paint yet so I'll do that then.

The battery has a small Anderson plug attached to it on a length of cable, this allows you to charge the battery or jump the car if required without removing the seat.

[Jonlem]

Same as this on another car we built

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Jatec/0C18454D-9CCD-4C6E-AB44-EF2591CB7B58_zpsd7oixunl.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Jatec/media/0C18454D-9CCD-4C6E-AB44-EF2591CB7B58_zpsd7oixunl.jpg.html)

[AndrewC]

it is becoming very well !! gradually everything is done and be spectacular !!!!!

Thanks tanogc, still someways to go but thanks to James. We're getting somewhere now.

[Iain]

Thanks for the explanation but I made a typo Jonlem lol lol I have an positive FIA killswitch that makes and breaks the circuits on the rear spades...

My question meant to say run the STARTER cable through it. i.e. the starting amps goes through the killswitch. Can't remember where I read it now, or what the justification was. I mean, it makes sense to isolate the large starter live in the engine bay in the event of a crash.

Little boots look cool thanks, very neat way in the bulkhead.

[Jonlem]

Everything must run through the isolator, it should have no issue coping with the cranking current at all, as you say you would want to isolate the starter live in the event of a accident.

The battery through panels units are made by Longacre, the terminal covers you can get from Polevolt

[Iain]

Thanks, will change my wiring! :)

[AndrewC]

Long overdue update. So turns out my attempt to sort the wiring with the 1.2 loom just wasn't going to do...so we now have this nice complete mk2 GSi loom...
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160514/fa18dd33cd76f04f94e61356dd4abb07.jpg
Without the dog unfortunately.

I wasn't planning on my work being the dry fit but it turns out it was. I'd have rattle canned the interior after the welding but In the end it was everything out again and did it properly....
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160514/687003170a37c7764bdc3896fccc1e8b.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160514/955d6c904969f34ad70691be2990d8af.jpg

It's all going back together now but looking mutch tidier! A cage mod and cage spray too...
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[totalnova]

Looks lovely and clean, hopefully it won't take to long to put it all together.

[Jonesfach]

Really nice job.

[nova_niek]

Impressive stuff, good luck rebuilding her.

[TallDave]

Blimey you weren't joking when you said everything out! Removing the bolt in cage is usually a step too far for most, certainly would be for me as I'd probably destroy that shiny paint finish refitting it!!!

Fair do's though its looking very nice indeed, I can't wait to see it finished, but no doubt not quite as much as you do :d

[AndrewC]

Today....dash and electrics inhttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160516/f6796f5fc183b5d0f062f25d052f140d.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160516/1a91062ba82c8f2e1501d0bb2f72bf2e.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160516/2561a708921cd9bbb27840688123ce15.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Iain]

This is looking cracking.

[RallyMarshal]

Top work!

[Peredur]

Looking good! Can't wait to get mine to this stage. Keep it up!

[boffer8]

Good to see her progressing well pal, cant wait to have a poke around when shes done!

[AndrewC]

Thanks for the comments all. Been up to see the car and James at Relentless Performance a couple of times in the last week. More progress on the engine bay, extinguisher added and pull cords. The bumpers will be sprayed up in dark grey. Turns out when the shell was prepped originally it was sprayed in a Honda white (based on result from colour analyser) which is why we couldn't find a Vauxhall match. The frozen white interior looks so clean...and as other rallyists have pointed out, it's only a rally car! So really not bothered about the different inside to out. I got my MSA Rally Nat B licence in the post this week too and possibly a co-driver. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/5b7496f4a16e43812102545f4273fb3c.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/8a3b1a400bf178aef2db5389df693c52.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/87427222aa3260942530799ae4de88a6.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/8c425ce254a75d9eb255609138a03681.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Southie]

Seems a shame to rally this with it looking so bloody nice, :thumb:

[AndrewC]

Cheers Mr Southie. I'll look after it I promise...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TallDave]

I can only reiterate the other comments, including my own, looking very nice indeed sir.

With your comp. license sorted along with a navigator (damn it I'd get my own license sorted out if you got desperate) you've obviously got your first event lined up, go on spill the beans where are you making your debut?

Are you planning a track day or two just to get some miles on the car and give yourself a chance to get dialed in to the handling?

Keep the updates coming.

[AndrewC]

thanks TallDave, be careful I might take you up on that. Not expecting to be pot hunting, not really that competitive just enjoy the buzz...I'm targeting the remaining rounds of the Assoc. of Eastern Motor Clubs stage rally championship. The next is the end of June so we won't make that one. The one after is airfield venue near saffron walden which would only be and hours drive away. Ideally so airfield testing and a track day or two before then (Snetterton, Rockingham or Bedford are closest)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[AndrewC]

It's my birthday tomorrow....I got an early prezzie...

https://youtu.be/XO152Hsjzbs

https://youtu.be/HhxgByr2sVw


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[Jonlem]

Happy birthday for tomorrow Andrew :)

[AndrewC]

Happy birthday for tomorrow Andrew :)

Cheers James...massive thanks to you and Relentless Performance.


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[Will F]

Engine sounds lovely and crisp!

[AndrewC]

Engine sounds lovely and crisp!

Cheers Will. Can't claim any credit at all for that really. Engine and carb setup was bought from Bruce Chonka 2 years ago. Put ARP rod bolts in, degreased and painted it that's all!



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[AndrewC]

Right....nearly there now. Last few bits to do (well James to do). Off to the dyno next week, geometry set up and MOT and all being well it'll be back in my garage end of next week.

I'm considering a first track session on the 2nd Sept (because I can get that day off work). Looks like I could get to Rockingham or Mallory Park, not been to either before so any thoughts? Have Team Shonky been there? What would be the preference?

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160814/f4116fbaaabc67338d0c1cfd6ee2291c.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160814/afbcdfe10068797e9b895acbc1efcd9b.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160814/428f52849513fd48bebac856ff4db755.jpg



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[Jonlem]

Was great to see you take it for a spin Andrew !

[AndrewC]

Here's the evidence...
I cut the bit where I got it stuck because reverse gear disappeared!
https://youtu.be/ecRuZ4G1sAU



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[House]

Excellent work, we are at Mallory on the 2nd. Get yourself booked in.

[Iain]

I would prefer Mallory as a first outing. As house said were there on 2nd. 8v Craig is also there in his racer! Get it booked

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[8valve-craig]

Four Nova's on the same track? Surely not.

[House]

Four Nova's on the same track? Surely not.

It's happening!!!

[toymex]

Would love to make it 5 ,but dont think mine will be repaired in time

[AndrewC]

Booked it! Just hope I don't kill it after one lap or some thing stupid...there's a Radical SR1 in the list too ffs...I'm gonna be a mobile chicane!


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[House]

Would love to make it 5 ,but dont think mine will be repaired in time

This is a shame mate


Booked it! Just hope I don't kill it after one lap or some thing stupid...there's a Radical SR1 in the list too ffs...I'm gonna be a mobile chicane!


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Mate, you'll be fine, just go out and have fun, it's not a race it's a trackday, you'll overtake plenty and Mallory is a really easy track to learn too

[AndrewC]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160815/a6c41d80ce24d4d97d4535c991e13c35.jpg

Ok ready!! Roll on 2nd Sept....as my 8 year old kart driving son reminded me..."all the gear and no idea!"


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[Iain]

Got a video camera to take with you? Be good to get some footage.

[AndrewC]

Yep got a GoPro with a roll bar attachment:)


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[House]

Race booooooties!!!! haha it's that way forward!!

[AndrewC]

An update from the last week or so. Finally picked up the car from James @ Relentless on Friday. The car now has an MOT and more importantly the carbs at now set up properly and a good dyno session. Don't have an absolute power output but the gain was 15kW or 20bhp. Happy with that, it sounds smooth now and picks up well pulling to 7500 with peak power at 6700, shift light set to 7k. Tracking also now done, just aswell as it was massively toe out. The current wheels will be replaced with the refurbed Speedlines I have plus DunlopDZ03 tyres. I can then get the the white rims sorted, perhaps sell on the maxsports. The heater blower was seized but fortunately I had a spare so that's gone on. The bumpers are on but too. Been out a few times over the weekend and she feels great. Only slight issue is the idle speed creeps up once warm going from around 1k to 3k. Doesn't appear to be anything obvious stricking. Wound back to idle screw to set at 1000 and tried again today and although still weak. Shift light added and set at 7k. Just a few things to sort now before Mallory on Friday...oil catch tank, door cards. Plus a good clean down, RainX the screen etc.

Photos of her back home...
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160828/2e6f2b2cfbc58454766cc9b19e9bd107.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160828/d8b1a7ce952c09582b4d83caf1206713.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160828/c09e90bee9e0d043adc66be1836ace7e.jpg


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[TallDave]

Thats one smart looking car Andrew, I quite like the understated colour combination, it might have taken a while but the results do you credit :thumb:

I was even considering dragging my arse up to Mallory to see it running, with the (possibly dubious) side bonus of meeting Team Shonky of course, however its quite a haul up from Southampton and I'm expecting a delivery of bike bits and chances are they won't get delivered until Friday! Hope it all goes well and I look forward to seeing some post event photos and incar footage in due course...

[AndrewC]

Thats one smart looking car Andrew, I quite like the understated colour combination, it might have taken a while but the results do you credit :thumb:

I was even considering dragging my arse up to Mallory to see it running, with the (possibly dubious) side bonus of meeting Team Shonky of course, however its quite a haul up from Southampton and I'm expecting a delivery of bike bits and chances are they won't get delivered until Friday! Hope it all goes well and I look forward to seeing some post event photos and incar footage in due course...

Thanks TallDave, would be great to see you but understand not the easiest from south coast. I'm very proud of it, already thinking of next developments but just want to get out there now...

I put the recon wheels and Dunlop Direzzas on last night. Got some ITG filters so I can give James his ones back. Also got a breather filter too, I know I need a catch tank really certainly before any stage rally events but I cannot find one with the right size inlet/outlet. The cam cover breather is over 20mm, I believe inlet and outlet need to be the same to avoid any pressurising effect. If anyone has any recommendations that would be great.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160831/49ec0c016cb64ba29fb7d39ddf606e15.jpg

I'm a bit worried about the state of the bump stops on the rear shocks but no time to change before Mallory Park tomorrow. Will hunt out my spares just in case.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160831/64ac5778737d92cba112abe71e0b9c6c.jpg


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[AndrewC]

And a pic of the breather filter and the ITG filters/trumpet socks...
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160831/f3cfab6d1b2e9d5786d077e887014a91.jpg


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[Jonlem]

Looking good Andrew. I'll make an enquiry tomorrow for a tank. Failing that we can just weld a couple of fittings onto any tank for you

[Jonlem]

Ps text me the auxiliary belt length and I'll grab a spare tomorrow and see if they stock some bump stops that would be suitable

[Iain]

Looking good, sounds like you're mostly there. Pipe into a pop bottle will do as a temporary measure for the catch tank! (Or if you ask Harvey, permanent solution lol)

Dunlops sound good, they deep enough treaded to do a bit of wet too?

I'm not sure on the grey colour of the bumpers but am prepared to change my mind when I see it tomorrow!

[Benn]

That's looking great, unsure on the bumpers tho.

Back to the bump stop, it's only a bit of foam, i'd just pull it out.. Cant see on a track you'd be hitting it.

[AndrewC]

So post Mallory Park, there are a few things to do now. Previously mentioned that the bumps stops in the rear bilsteins were perished. Called ProTec this morning and apparently the internal bump stop is enough. Some people have added external ones but Alan said no need. More important question I guess is if the 20 year old dampers are still effective...guess we'll see how it goes. His advice was also not to bother adding front anti-roll bar back on. Probably going to need to renew gaskets on the Webers. Outer CVs might need a check as I think I can here them "ticking" now as I push round on lock.

I bought some polycarbonate door cards, half the price of the carbon ones. Tried spraying the back of them but that looked crap. Especially as i tried primer not thinking that that would be the finish seen from the other side. Remembered with Iain's help that I have some carbon vinyl wrap so used that and mounted them up.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160907/5f28f2bef7b30ea67d2b03220f7dda6e.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160907/e81646a197ab92a56cfe218fda1aef09.jpg

Think it finishes off nicely, better than open holes anyway.

Sounds like the jury is out on the bumper colour. We're you swayed Iain, having now seen it?

One thing I will invest in before the next outing is 2 x 20litre jerry cans. It's a very thirsty car!

Next outing could be Cadwell at the end of October. Also there is a sprint at Debden on the 2nd October. Can't do Cadwell on the 1st as my son will be racing the kart then.


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[Jonlem]

If you would like the bumpers colour changing just let me know and I'll do it foc if you supply the paint. The current colour on the bumpers is squirrel grey, seems that we use it on the interiors mostly but thought I'd give it a shot on something exterior based !

Clonking noise could just be the diff as its reasonable harsh.

[AndrewC]

I'm keeping the colour! I like it...


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[Iain]

Doorcards looks great.

Since you ask I think darker would look better but if you like it then all good! It's built for driving not looking at anyway!

I usually take 25l to a day so 40l should do with thirsty twin carbs!

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[AndrewC]

Doorcards looks great.

Since you ask I think darker would look better but if you like it then all good! It's built for driving not looking at anyway!

I usually take 25l to a day so 40l should do with thirsty twin carbs!

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Nope you're wrong there Iain...after 18 years I am quite happy sitting here in the garage just looking at it


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[AndrewC]

Ok so here's my in-car video from Mallory Park last week. It's too long and yes I know the camera is too low and too narrow angled...
This was the damp session of the day, so wasn't taking any risks (my excuses out of the way). I'm following my mate Phil in the yellow BMW, then overtaken by Iain and House and Craig and others!

https://youtu.be/7qyYzdp7d7Q


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[Iain]

Boo too low to see anything. At least the white balance is right though with spot metering!

Look up Manfrotto double ball joint camera mount, that was my beastly camera mount and it's been spot on.

[AndrewC]

Gutted...took the car out for a spin late afternoon today. A good blast down the lanes west of Cambridge but 2 mins from home thought I heard a noisy belt. Slowed right down, dipped the clutch to listen and the engine died. Rolled to a stop but wouldn't restart. Managed to push it the few hundred yards to home. Rolled her into the garage but no time to start looking to see what's happened. Was already pissed off which is why I'd fine out for a blast...now really depressed!


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[Jonesfach]

:cry:

[totalnova]

Hopefully something simple to fix.

[Iain]

Better to happen on road than track

[AndrewC]

Started to investigate the problem...before it died I thought I heard a binding noise like a rubbing belt. Looking at the cam pulley I think that may be what I heard. The belt cover is worn, the pulley paint has rubbed off in place and the bolt loose. The belt is intact so hopefully nothing catastrophic internally.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161011/87bbeff79aff5137deabf2ef693e6420.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161011/f5b218534d6b07fc563279932e8bc672.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161011/9a0b3b44dc39a8b3c52d81da43064e58.jpg


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[TallDave]

Started to investigate the problem...before it died I thought I heard a binding noise like a rubbing belt. Looking at the cam pulley I think that may be what I heard. The belt cover is worn, the pulley paint has rubbed off in place and the bolt loose. The belt is intact so hopefully nothing catastrophic internally.


OUCH, feeling your pain Andrew, I just hope that things are not as bad as they sound like they might be...

That loose bolt doesn't sound good, just how long is the locating dowel in the cam, just hoping for your sake that it remained engaged, otherwise it could be nasty and expensive....! Fingers crossed that it won't be.

[AndrewC]

OUCH, feeling your pain Andrew, I just hope that things are not as bad as they sound like they might be...

That loose bolt doesn't sound good, just how long is the locating dowel in the cam, just hoping for your sake that it remained engaged, otherwise it could be nasty and expensive....! Fingers crossed that it won't be.

Yep confirmed it's not good. Dowel was not the proper job. Leak down test shows all 4 down 25%. Looks like new valves needed[emoji24]at least...


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[totalnova]

Hope it's salvageable mate, great excuse for some tuning if you ask me. Silver clouds and all that.

[Benn]

Ouch, bad luck.

[Jonlem]

Well I can post an update. The "dowel" was just a roll pin, not sure if that's normal on these engine bits it's now a machined dowel.

We used the leak down tester on another engine and got some interesting results pointing towards the guage not reading correctly. Retested the nova on another tester and it was 5-6% on 1-3 and 10-12 on 4. This was tested cold and the leak was actually past the rings ok number 4.

Anyway turned up a dowel, timed it back up and hey presto the cars back up and running nicely. It does need Cambelt front and rear covers but otherwise it appears ok, bloody lucky for sure. If anyone has the Cambelt covers laying about I can get it back together and back to Andrew