Any ideas what to use??

[Novas.5u.com-Chris]

Ive just got in and found that my GSi was making a loud tapping noise when it was idling. I opened the bonnet and had a look as the engine was running.
It looked like the lead for plug no 4 had come loose so I pulled it off and re fitted it.
It stopped for a bit but then started again. When I looked closer I realised the spark plug had come loose!
I removed it, checked it was ok and then refitted it, only to find the threads in the head were knackered and it wouldnt even lightly tighten up.
Ive managed to get it to 'nip up' enough so it doesnt move by putting a bit of downwards pressure on it as I tightened (i havnt cross threaded it though!!) but am going over 200 miles just to get down to trax on saturday (and 200+ back!) and dont want it coming out the head altogether.
Is there any suitable lock tite for this sort of perpose until I have the time for an engineer to sort it??
Any help asap would be appreciated, Thanx![/img]

[Chip_RB]

You could use some nut lock compound, but i wouldnt fancy its odds of survival with a couple of thousand psi pressure on it as combustion happens.

Cant think of a "bodge" thats going to be up to last 200 miles like that really.


Chip

[Ben]

Dont suppose you have a spare head?

Would be easier as a quick fix just to swap the whole lot and give it to an engineer whilst off the car, that way you can still go to trax.

Ben

[Aamir]

Hi, not sure if this will work, but worth a try...

Get a tap & dye set with the same thread pattern as the
spark plug & try slowly cutting the same thread pattern into it,
shouldn't cost you more than ?20.

If you haven't used & tap & dye before, get instructions,
there is a certain way to use this tool.

[Chip_RB]

DONT use a tap and die set on the head while its still in place.

The instructions are something like "turn a half circle, then back a quarter circle" and repeat.

The reason for this is that each time you turn it you turn it back again to allow the swarf to drop down the thread hole and keep the tool clear, in the case of your combustion chamber you dont want bits of metal swarf in it, you will HAVE to remove the head to fix this really, and if you are doing that anyway you may as well just slap a second hand head on.


Chip

[Davegsi]

Alrite chris, tony with the widearch nova may have a spare head if u ask him. id go with the swapping the head theory as u dont want nething going down into the chamber. the loctite may work for a while like

[Voodoo]

My mechanic once re-threaded a spark plug hole on my bike with the head in place, he used a lot of grease to keep the swarf from falling into the chamber. I suppose it worked, because I never had any problem with that engine.