Pierburg 2e setup help please

[novathere]

Hi as mentioned in title I'm a little stuck with this, I'm building a nova and will put it in the projects thread soon as I've sorted this. I'm changed nearly everything mechanical on this but haven't a clue when it comes to carbs. I've bought brand new spark plugs and ignition coil, dizzy and leads are what came with the engine ( 1.3 sr lump 13sb) it was running as it was in a mates car.

If it helps it starts but sounds lumpy or like its misfiring, will only start with filter casing off, doesn't idle well needs slight revs, when it's started revs very slow & after awhile it won't start just goes to then chucks petrol? Vapour out the carb. Any help would be very much appreciated as I need the car for work need week and want it to go for a mot on sat


thanks all!

[novathere]

Also did the 1.3 sr come with this carb as I have a pierburg 1b aswell, what's better or more suitable thanks

[ash.blue]

Hiya, ive recently had the same issue but opposite in revs, mine was erratic and always wanted to cut out. Spark plugs where carbon fouled and wet(ish) .. Mine was idling too fast and air flow screw needed adjusting.

To answer your question, ive consorted my bible (the manual) it says pierburg (solex) 1B1 is the carb type for 1.2 and also 1.3 .. In the diagram for engine parts, theres a choke cable fitted. Does yours have this ? Mine doesnt and mine struggled starting because of this issue.

Mine would be sucking too much air in, was only when the filter was off that the choke flap could be shut (mines a 1ltr)

[marc69]

Ignition timing?

Is the carb inlet gasket sealed?

The 2e3 is a twin choke carb with automatic choke.

If the carb was working and you haven't adjusted it it should run without much adjustment.

[marc69]

The weber 1.0 carb has an adjustment mix screw on the passenger side, yours needs to go in to weaken the mixture, the idle speed can also be lowered by the screw on the front drivers side.
It's the mix that needs adjusting, once you have the speed and mix lowered about right, rev it a few times and fine adjust the mixture until it runs really even note wise and it should be closeish

[ash.blue]

Hi marc mines sorted now :) .. I believe we may have spoke before, bout mine not starting and you suggesting choke needed aswell as maybe condensor and breaker points.
Because my choke was removed by previous owner, and a push button installed because of snapping key in door the hole has been bored out in dash.
Ive made a spacer at work with washer to lock against it for better fitment

[jimbob-mcgrew]

what was the problem ash ?

[ash.blue]

Where to start is the problem lol .. Brought car from mate who knackered key in lock in winter, as result he took the ignition mechanism out and used 2 switches and button to start. Button was placed where choke pull used to be.

Gentleman in my garage site has soft spot for older cars so been helpin and ive been learning more in depth.
I wasnt gettin spark at plugs to start, hunted every reason and marc69 and few others suggested breaker points. While on it got a new condensor unit aswell. The spark wasnt strong enough in old points.

Got them in and all was ok, struggled to start but did with a jump off bigger battery. Its been narrowed down to having no choke, had to make a spacer at work for the hole as it was made bigger for button. The idle was too fast and pulling in to much air. Sounded like a right tank nd rattling. With daz on board fiddling the levels and adjusting under revs it now ticks over smoothly and doesnt try cutting out so much.

Basically:-
Breaker points (worn out)
New condensor
Needed choke (old removed)
And fiddling with air and idle screws
:)

Ill try get pics up, but its a pain from mobile lol

[jimbob-mcgrew]

those 1.3's don't have points and condenser, it should be a breakerless setup.

yeah, you kinda need a choke, it wont run cold without one.

a good general setting on the 2e carb ive found,,, is wind the mixture screw all the way in (gently till it stops, then unwind it 360 degree's / 1 complete turn)

you might need to set the accelerator pump up too, its on the opposite end of the throttle bar / linkage (the opposite side of the carb that the cable attaches but on the same bar)

theres a little plastic cam shaped piece that you can adjust by slackening a Philips screw and moving it (one way is chucks in less petrol, the other way more)

most carbs ive seen have it set it in the centre of its adjustment.

ignition timing will also effect the fueling, so youll wanna check that out.

the jump start sounds slightly dodgy, is it always like that ? you might wanna check all the connections on that, and the earth connections in the engine bay

gaskets is one thing I forgot to mention, theres one between the carb and inlet manifold, and another between the inlet manifold and engine, if either of these 2 are not sealing properly, too much air will enter and youll never get the mixture right