Johnny's Nova builds

[Johnny A]

It's almost automatic mate, I looked at the arch gap and knew I wouldn't be happy unless this thing is decked. Difference is I will make the thing handle by resetting the geometry like I did with the Carlton.

[Scottcooper85]

This thread is like nova welding porn...top stuff mate

[BRoadGhost]

Now we'll see about the CVs

[Johnny A]

Now we'll see about the CVs

Engine is going up to compensate, the Isuzu lump isn't overly tall (unlike the XE was in SEF) so I should see an easy few inches of height. I can't imagine the CV's lasting any time at all otherwise, but you should know by now I don't do things by halves lol

[Johnny A]

Update:
Not much done at the moment as I have been helping my missus move house, but some stuff has still been done.

As already pointed out with a massive drop the CV's wouldn't last 5 minutes (if they would work at all!), I already knew the engine would have to be raised up but now seemed like a good time to do it. First off I bolted the engine in and placed the bonnet on top:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10273809_10154250764920214_3525576134252913574_n.j pg

Restricting points are
the cambelt cover to the bonnet
The inlet manifold to the bonnet

Both has 1.6 inches clearance with the engine in it's factory location, so I have chosen to raise the engine by 1.5 inches.
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10348550_10154250765015214_7662488936289918347_n.j pg

With the bonnet clearance issues aside the only real other issue with raising the engine is the shifter linkage - it's tight as it is on a big block setup but which ever way I looked at it raising the engine caused an incompatibility.

Cable shift was the only solution and was used with excellent results on SEF, I thought about a different gearbox for a moment - like the F23 5-speed that SEF runs but I really wanted to keep the F18W. In this case the only setup is the Vectra-C 1.8 16v F17 cable setup, GM kindly modified a rod/linkage gearbox to run cables by replacing the gearbox turret and adding cables. Finding one gave me a bit of hassle, my local yard had 2x Vectra C's but the turrets had already gone. After an hour of phone calls I found a breakers that had one but was an hours drive :( I came out happy though having only spent £20 for everything!

Replacing the turrets is a doddle:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10513367_10154250765100214_1489252821031240075_n.j pg

I measured the gap between the master cylinder and the new turret - it's going to be tight with the engine raise but it should clear:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/10448775_10154250765440214_5247871272677233194_n.j pg

The breakers yard I went to also seemed to be a little gold mine, found a CavTD with a 'turbo' cam cover and black oil cap for a fiver:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10492143_10154250765590214_8913925171816168455_n.j pg

QH aren't reknown for their quality but at £5 each for new 1.5TD Nova coolant hoses I couldn't resist, the bottom rad one correctly fits but the 1.7TD block hose is different to the 1.5TD Nova's so it will need modding:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10383488_10154250765755214_6484166416297546212_n.j pg

Either the 1.5TD Nova thermostat pipe is angled differently or QH got this hose very wrong:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t1.0-9/10487427_10154250766180214_4671661011093210794_n.j pg

Turbo shield to radiator is close but not uncomfortably so:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/10301935_10154250765935214_7897988813816126296_n.j pg

With all the checks done it was time to remove the engine and mod the brackets, I just managed to do the gearbox brackets before leaving the unit:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10514490_10154250766420214_3905776364955507498_n.j pg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/t1.0-9/10487479_10154250766580214_5176163740627842019_n.j pg

[scott.parker]

I take it James is giving up on his nova then if you have his front end/cross member lol

[Johnny A]

I take it James is giving up on his nova then if you have his front end/cross member lol

I don't get it

[scott.parker]

Is that not James hards front cross he made?

[Johnny A]

Nope, this one is all my own design

[Benn]

Loving the engine raising. Hope you dont have the CV probs i did.

[Johnny A]

Cheers dude, only managed to spend a bit of time on it today so cooked up the O/S engine mount bracket:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10423661_10154254112660214_2439250762248498482_n.j pg

[Southie]

You've got some cracking skills, nice to see something that's outside the box ;)

[Johnny A]

Update:
Engine sitting higher:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10511151_10154257951200214_2970696020077675684_n.j pg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10492393_10154257951245214_5821332932542772202_n.j pg

If you look at the chassis rail direct above the gearbox you can see I had to cut a section out:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10479589_10154257951055214_764368589704150405_n.jp g

This much:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/10487384_10154257951805214_5670133750105932756_n.j pg

Bonnet foulings!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10478123_10154257951860214_3086551021096173759_n.j pg
Luckily hacking out more of the strengthening has cleared it.

I am happy with the gearbox height, should level out the driveshafts a treat
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/983732_10154257953105214_2914901576979300670_n.jpg

Steering rack won't go in, a lug on the gearbox is stopping it:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10486302_10154257951995214_1840493675565644226_n.j pg
again the grinder fixed that lol

The servo and master cylinder are close to the turret:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t1.0-9/10500244_10154257952285214_534803802618788842_n.jp g

But the turret wasn't my main concern - the shifter cables were. Just here you can see the gap:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10440907_10154257952385214_2145113521162928155_n.j pg?oh=fc49c45cc298163fe6e39b38ba1ea2d2&oe=5422B7DE&__gda__=1411517323_ee343f95f103bf6d74e5cd1af919118 d

I hacked the inside up and place the shifter is about the right position:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10273500_10154257952565214_6224696391227834241_n.j pg?oh=84eca32ba292f72d31e4d13557a5a50d&oe=542DD09C

Getting there, everything is very close though:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t1.0-9/10527392_10154257952650214_1859445287152524327_n.j pg

Like... really close!
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/10456811_10154257952795214_3015376285581042001_n.j pg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10526032_10154257953555214_1335732682417192147_n.j pg

[Johnny A]

Big gap in the picture taking now, here is the cable bracket all welded up:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t1.0-9/10525959_10154257953240214_930218091464417756_n.jp g
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10532340_10154257953445214_4806982111280534013_n.j pg
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t1.0-9/10426645_10154257953740214_8157575389073801506_n.j pg
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10513424_10154257953870214_7008382598047084203_n.j pg?oh=c80d82d5363c71dd4cc1dd1116da54ce&oe=541EEB33

quick test video of the shifter in action:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10154258029880214&l=1113612062755897526

[scott.parker]

Amazing work as always dude, no idea where you find the inspiration from... :)

[Edd]

impressive stuff

i take it you rate the cable shifter quite highly, much better than a standard set up with rose jointed linkage ?

[Johnny A]

impressive stuff

i take it you rate the cable shifter quite highly, much better than a standard set up with rose jointed linkage ?

Can't speak to the rose jointed stuff - never used it. Cable shifters do have the advantage of not being effected by engine movement when changing gears, but I do like cable shift personally and it also is the easiest way to change gear on a raised engine.

[dgbnova#1]

Class as always

[Benn]

Very nice John

[Johnny A]

Not much today but got a few things done, I want cruise control so the throttle arm and cable bracket need modding to accept the CC cable:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/t1.0-9/10371465_10154261660595214_5656284303731140751_n.j pg
The cable ball-end has been replaced with one from an old C30SE throttle body that is a different shape to attach the CC cable end, I then cut the cable bracket and added the rectangular hole for the CC cable.

https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/10530734_10154261660695214_504520523152624006_n.jp g
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/10502006_10154261660830214_4144558471720766820_n.j pg

Cruise control cable goes on:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/10523940_10154261661155214_8723887699987880574_n.j pg

Followed by throttle cable:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t1.0-9/1610755_10154261661225214_7709406184687214245_n.jp g

I also welded up and smoothed the rear engine mount:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/10502026_10154261661415214_2792711961492388739_n.j pg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10425188_10154261661505214_3017468360859360989_n.j pg
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/10525645_10154261661660214_1185276934107087133_n.j pg

[Johnny A]

Nice one Jack, they should do the trick!!

Update:
O/S engine mount cleaned up, trimmed and painted:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t1.0-9/10464075_10154275919575214_611063952906083205_n.jp g

The others got similar treatment:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/t1.0-9/10304973_10154275919625214_7950592032238846123_n.j pg
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10505508_10154275919710214_6521648891469880967_n.j pg

N/S turret being cooked up:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t1.0-9/10482593_10154275919875214_7216145477707424737_n.j pg

N/S chassis rail partially plated up:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/10462986_10154275919950214_7796489267066177204_n.j pg

Engine back in for more fitment testing:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10378973_10154275920230214_6085165339278682570_n.j pg

Coilover body bolted in:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10370902_10154275920385214_4790871056175967383_n.j pg

Along with suspension:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10460462_10154275920435214_4671584024702614410_n.j pg?oh=b1ccdda467988cad1a0cd5615a1fa2c2&oe=5411D498

Taking a closer look, the driveshaft is facing slightly down, the wishbones are at an angle I want when the suspension is on it's wheels:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10462690_10154275920685214_2664005282192246215_n.j pg?oh=da0c1a59a99ae59bfbb3e6d9dee40867&oe=54103CA3

The steering arm is the worst, any more angle than this and it's bumpsteer central:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/1604959_10154275920730214_1720411690728303831_n.jp g

The inner CV's are responsible for the in-out movement, for that reason I have left the CV boot off to see what the ranges are like:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/1017525_10154275920925214_491076273610240898_n.jpg
It's hard to tell but the inner cv is at the end of it's inboard range - not good.

Using the trolley jack I pulled the suspension to up where it will be when on the ground:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/10464061_10154275921000214_5817229876279671222_n.j pg

[Johnny A]

At that height the driveshaft is at this angle:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10382873_10154275921105214_3869445383562069629_n.j pg?oh=1099b4be10b6e345f154fcbca092267e&oe=540E8390
Not ideal but within tolerance

Wishbone angle isn't good either:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10511278_10154275921255214_864883822171210743_n.jp g

The steering arm angle was beyond a joke! How some Nova owners can drive their cars with similar angles I will never know. Straight off I turned the tie rod ends upside down and had a look:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10526114_10154275921315214_2854798753678822732_n.j pg?oh=d7106c39b2004550319f6306dc791d35&oe=54180468

I disconnected the bottom ball joint but with the inner cv joint being at the end of its range I cannot pull the hub inward :(

To fix this I modified the ends of the driveshafts:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10534092_10154275921605214_8036043598058059431_n.j pg

Basically what I have done is moved the circlip groove inwards as much as possible and cut the same amount of metal off the end of the shaft (the material removed had no splines so no weakness).

With this done to both ends I gained about 12mm:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10514493_10154275921850214_954606181432673937_n.jp g

Ideally I want to add 70mm down and 20mm inwards like this:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/t1.0-9/10487999_10154275921960214_5717987950623903920_n.j pg

Unfortunately 70mm down causes the ball joint to foul the alloy wheel! I can get away with 60mm though. But still straightens the wheels out a treat:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10462584_10154275921715214_8779166836885440988_n.j pg

Also had a little play with these:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10485239_10154275922120214_2628467184950692038_n.j pg

[scott.parker]

You sir have an awesome knowledge of the geometry, me i just lowered the car lol
Can't wait to see more progress, the irmscher skirts look interesting...

[Johnny A]

Cheers scott, I not getting the calculator out here or anything but I am following a few fundamentals:
Keeping the wishbone angle downward (inner higher than outer) keeps the roll center above ground (this is a good thing, it means better turn in, less roll and understeer)
Keeping the steering arm angles dead level when static will reduce bump steer.

I could (and am tempted to) look at the level of bump steer generated after these mods, I know it will be a lot less than your average lowered Nova but I would be nice to know just how much less. Trouble is to correct bump steer would mean altering the steering rack length which I CBA with.

[Novasport]

the irmscher skirts look interesting...

They are not Irmscher skirts, they are GMS or Zender skirts.

[Johnny A]

They are not Irmscher skirts, they are GMS or Zender skirts.

I thought they might be Irmscher simply because they look the same as the ones Dave Marshall is selling here:
http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?206728-New-genuine-irmscher-3-door-sideskirts&highlight=irmscher+side

Mine are plastic but not had a look for any identifying marks.

[Dervy]

some very inspirational work going on here john, your making me feel very guilty for not getting more work done on the astra, that suspension set up is very sexy

[Novasport]

If they are plastic they will be Zender, GMS were fibreglass.
The Irmscher skirts have a squared edge to them and the angled flair on the rear quarter is different.

[scott.parker]

I thought they might be Irmscher simply because they look the same as the ones Dave Marshall is selling here:
http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?206728-New-genuine-irmscher-3-door-sideskirts&highlight=irmscher+side

Mine are plastic but not had a look for any identifying marks.

That's why I thought they were irmscher one's as i thought i read you had bought a set the same as Dave's...

But obviously I'm wrong.

[Benn]

Your shaft looks almost straight to me now... That is very nice.

Your steering arms look alot better than mine too..lol Mine point up...

[Johnny A]

Your shaft looks almost straight to me now... That is very nice.

Your steering arms look alot better than mine too..lol Mine point up...

Works for you don't it lol I remember looking at yours after you sorted that alignment issue and they weren't too bad at all.

The other angles will be corrected next, currently the old girl is her wheels:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/10474021_10154281133220214_4081524295892342507_n.j pg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10463949_10154281133370214_7090175604951718059_n.j pg
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/10407733_10154281133540214_9157575172410899909_n.j pg
Very happy with the look of her, but the rear is on Gaz "ultra low" coilovers with 1 inch of travel left in the body.... yes they are low but not ultra low.

Steering column bolted in, I had to extend the joint section a bit to meet the rack:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10450941_10154281133840214_2964244094088887941_n.j pg

Anyways the reason for this sudden jump to rolling shell and sunlight is it's exhaust time!!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10349069_10154281133875214_3053905945412286331_n.j pg

As with all my builds the exhaust is being done at Longlife Bicester, Nick (who does all the fabrication/welding) started cooking up the 2.25" mandrel bent turbo-back system:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t1.0-9/10330240_10154281134080214_6903303743526396712_n.j pg

I on the other hand made myself useful and made the tailpipes, I am going for dual exit singles. The problem I saw was that getting the tailpipes dead straight, level and true would be a total ****. To get around this problem I get the two ends, clamped them to a bench and spot welded bracing between them:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10393576_10154281133920214_4662501933416662628_n.j pg

I then looked at height and depth:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10429447_10154281134000214_1290467817605407190_n.j pg

The rear valance on the saloons/estate is the same height as the bottom of the Mk2 rear bumper so I was able to use this as a reference without actually fitting the mk2 bumper itself.
I wanted a 50%+ dig into the bumper, with much measurement I cut two holes in the rear valance and spotted the pipes onto it:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10479183_10154281134160214_994676281454600796_n.jp g
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t1.0-9/10502244_10154281134210214_4841278513712341508_n.j pg

an additional brace was added to the frame to make sure it couldn't tilt:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10547595_10154281134275214_7177861838632493637_n.j pg

https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/l/t1.0-9/10514672_10154281134345214_1911295331304828293_n.j pg

This is how far I get before I had to leave, more pics will follow of the completed system.

[Johnny A]

Quick photoshop shows the target ride height: 20mm extra on front and **** loads more on rear (I will cut/raise/weld the stub axles to achieve this):
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10417443_10154281194405214_4080043869465252589_n.j pg

[scott.parker]

Looking awesome awesome awesome.. So you'll be in it at billing for the weekend?lol

Fancy swapping some wheels? Just found out someone else is also fitting speedline Mistrals on a Jamaica yellow nova :(

[Iain]

Is raised stub axles better than higher turreted rears?

[Vlietje]

Legend! I love how you turn this into a killer! AWESOME!
I will donate a pack of waffles to you sir!

[Johnny A]

Looking awesome awesome awesome.. So you'll be in it at billing for the weekend?lol

Fancy swapping some wheels? Just found out someone else is also fitting speedline Mistrals on a Jamaica yellow nova :(

Joker lol These wheels are rare than any minstrals lad. I love these wheels and are a perfect fit.

[Johnny A]

Is raised stub axles better than higher turreted rears?

Depends how you look at it really,
Pros: Raising the stub axles keeps the beam at a good angle for its arc of travel
Maintains a decent distance between the middle of the beam and the floorpan (for the exhaust pipe to go between)
No modifications needed to the turrets (i.e no reduction in internal cabin space), remember this is a load-lugging estate car so more transporting space is good.

Cons: The beam at the stub axles is inside of the rim, with a distance between the centre of the stub axle and the bottom of the beam at that point. By raising the stub axle you increase this distance and bring the bottom of the axle closer to the inside of the wheel rim. The bigger the wheel the more distance/space you have to work with.... but what if I raised the stub axle so much its 5mm from the beam and wheel rim touching - then I decide to fit smaller wheels?? I can't as the smaller diameter wheel would foul the beam. This is something I will bear in mind and use my backup 15" alloys as a reference when I do it.

[Johnny A]

Another shop:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t1.0-9/1932451_10154281699945214_1015079653636573298_n.jp g

[Vlietje]

Porn!!

[BRoadGhost]

Needs lowering

[Benn]

Looks much better dropped right down. Exhaust looks nice too.

[Johnny A]

Pictures from today, exhaust is getting there:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10511288_10154282827065214_4107556856854612508_n.j pg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10483067_10154282827140214_8260510458584618653_n.j pg
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/994117_10154282827210214_3844287113749531199_n.jpg

[dgbnova#1]

I'm so glad you got this car mate just love all of it

[Johnny A]

Back from Billing!
Small update: Before going back into the unit I took a cheeky shot of the rear exhaust:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/t1.0-9/10556301_10154300403560214_7409500038931312794_n.j pg

SEF's wheels look nice against the matt black:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10563117_10154300403600214_3503160429539383595_n.j pg

An awesome job due by Longlife exhausts in Bicester once again:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10505623_10154300410915214_8499624494213018545_n.j pg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10533275_10154300410960214_2943544348061005683_n.j pg

Anyways onward: It was time to modify the hub carriers to correct the geometry. I started with inverting the steering arm end and dropped it a further 10mm:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t1.0-9/10505610_10154300411195214_3564799009744799058_n.j pg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10556356_10154300411260214_6485488914357911985_n.j pg

This requires the welder at full power, things get very hot very fast!!!!

[Johnny A]

Off comes the bottom bracket:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10517551_10154300411405214_6292957271666716319_n.j pg?oh=927fa36ed6e65dc8e8bd2e1d1c62a5d8&oe=5439E507&__gda__=1415191825_2ee0c861b8f7b392d42d1571e250671 1

By used 2mm thick sheet steel with the ends tacked on I was able to accurately drop the bracket 60mm and 20mm inward:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1901425_10154300411575214_8715256855149759619_n.jp g?oh=8be8355571edc0b6b9652a9b44a234f5&oe=543B8DE7&__gda__=1413203127_b0ae6e7c668f5474d9313ca4f8ce0db b

Once it was in place I welded thicker plate in:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t1.0-9/10444338_10154300411710214_3085713159701221486_n.j pg

Bit of a gap now as I pressed on and I didn't take a piccy until finished, but here it is all flattened and shiny:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/10473068_10154300411810214_3003209567069537715_n.j pg

All bolted up:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t1.0-9/10563217_10154300411925214_6205993779574547630_n.j pg

I am very happy with the results, with the ride height simulated here is the steering arm:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t1.0-9/10500563_10154300412025214_4566185821395903901_n.j pg

The simulated ride height is as seen in the photoshop:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10532373_10154300412160214_3560764453752480200_n.j pg

The bottom ball joint is very close to the inside of the rim:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10556233_10154300412240214_2130637063023416254_n.j pg?oh=498be91324391e72d94c62a568c13a4f&oe=5442F32D&__gda__=1413022912_4e1eb2aa787b8b4efb6d9fd11259bc4 a

The wishbone is even closer, but they can be easily tweeked:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10561740_10154300412330214_3304620313824180259_n.j pg?oh=bffd9b1d0ec2e5501ec4b9f3ace5a4b0&oe=54553B98

Although I have no real clue on the actual ride drop at the simulated height the driveshaft rubs on the chassis rail:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10518658_10154300412400214_4593719884893535426_n.j pg?oh=ce6980d2e3eb3ed26ba5df956b52a998&oe=54573E1C&__gda__=1414412361_6f56638d786360bbd11cd0633b0bce5 7

However on right hand lock the wheel rim hits the wishbone:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10481419_10154300412565214_1004509743721205380_n.j pg

https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10357248_10154300412670214_6906767857565649781_n.j pg

[BRoadGhost]

Time to makes some lower arms

[Iain]

I didn't think you could just MIG with cast stuff like that. Pretty creative things going on here. Lock stops to keep things from touching?

[Benn]

I thought it was a **** to ^ Till chat to John at Billing... He loves it.

[Johnny A]

Time to makes some lower arms

Yeah, tbh it's not a massive issue and some minor tweaks to the lower arms will sort things out.

[Johnny A]

I didn't think you could just MIG with cast stuff like that. Pretty creative things going on here. Lock stops to keep things from touching?

Yeah you can but you need to get it very hot and make sure all the contact surfaces are fully fused, the entire hub assembly got so hot I couldn't touch it for an hour!!

[scott.parker]

I'm almost as speechless as Sunday morning lol
Awesome work as always dude, very impressive, I was struggling to visualise it when you explained it, but there brilliant.

[Johnny A]

I'm almost as speechless as Sunday morning lol
Awesome work as always dude, very impressive, I was struggling to visualise it when you explained it, but there brilliant.

Scott you were in a coma when I saw you at Billing lol

[nova_niek]

Excellent stuff going on here, looking forward to the finalised product. Any idea what to expect handling wise?

[Johnny A]

Excellent stuff going on here, looking forward to the finalised product. Any idea what to expect handling wise?

Cheers, I am expecting a reduction in roll and bump steer. At this stage it's all on paper but I did this exact work on my Carlton estate and it worked a treat.

[Johnny A]

Carlton digi dash fun today, the one pictured was donated to me by Craig, it's covered in missing pixels but for this part of the conversion it's fine.

3x halogen bulbs removed, lugs dremel'd off, then 12x Bridglux LED chips are bonded onto the backing:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10487274_10154304056960214_8897435531252705074_n.j pg

These LEDs are silly bright - being 3W and kicking out 200 lumens each with a 120 degree viewing angle.

The diffuser plate levels out all the light:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/10511148_10154304056850214_8695783683324796092_n.j pg

Top plate on, the dash itself isn't powered up here:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10501645_10154304057080214_7299466780575038091_n.j pg

Dash on, the light output is huge, around double the standard output:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/t1.0-9/1924342_10154304057405214_2316398260060001886_n.jp g

I will use a PWM driver to vary the light output depending on condition, as any digi dash owner will tell you the standard lighting during a sunny day is pathetic. I am hoping this will help fix it.

As pictured before the outer casing on the Carlton dash has been trimmed to the same height as the Astra version:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/10292141_10154169549740214_5883741585493472375_n.j pg

The downside to this is the check control lights, indicators, ECU light etc... all were housed in the section that was removed. My initial idea was to use a MK2 Astra GTE independant check control panel with the light filters replaced with the ones I needed. But I think I may have found a more elegant solution, on later Carlton digi dashes the check control was in the LCD plate below the speedometer (6 orange blocks):
http://www.rotanes.de/assets/images/OL7.JPG

By sanding down the print on the back of the LCD plate I can then replace the print with the appropriate symbols I need (Indicator left, indicator right, high beam, ECU light, handbrake/fluid warning and 'lights on' symbol.

[BRoadGhost]

Those are bright; you could put the caliper mounts on the other side to help the weight more inboard if you're welding knuckles.

[Southie]

What style dashboard are you going to make to fit those massive dials into then?

[Johnny A]

Those are bright; you could put the caliper mounts on the other side to help the weight more inboard if you're welding knuckles.

The camera really isn't doing them justice, they really do kick ass but they weren't cheap.

I have yet to do a few stress tests on the bottom joint, but yeah I could add more meat and brace it off that.

[Johnny A]

What style dashboard are you going to make to fit those massive dials into then?

Mk2 dash with an extended shroud, I did this once before a LONG time ago. It was a pretty hash job back then but it did work.

[istf]

Is it automatic (PRND12)? :D ;) Nice work with the lights :thumb:

[Johnny A]

The dash is from an auto yeah, but it doesn't matter as when I have decided what the plan is I can cover up unwanted things such as the auto part so they won't show up when lit.... basically a strip of electrical tape on the back of the LCD plate works a treat!

I have spend hours today with the help of haynes manual wiring diagrams trying to see if I can:
Get the check control lights to serve as indicators, ecu light etc...
Get the auto shift lights to serve as other cool things

Neither of which was successful :(

The auto shift lights interface with the autobox ecu so thats a no go. The check control is pretty simple for most of the lights, with such ones as low oil, coolant ect if the corresponding wire is grounded the light stays out. However if you remove the ground wire the light doesn't illuminate for about 2 mins. So totally useless.

I have given up on that idea, I will cover the auto and check control lights up when done. However I did have a cool idea for the rev counter, as you know it's going to be used in a 4-pot diesel engine. I don't like the idea of the rev counter bars only being half used (the rev counter goes to 7K, whereas a diesel rev counter only goes to 5K), so I plan to sand off the numbers surrounding the rev counter arc and using my friendly vinyl making friend produce a replacement decal.

What could be simpler! :roll:

[Benn]

Sounds like a nightmare John. Do like the rev counter idea tho...

[Johnny A]

Not too bad mate, I spent 2 hours photoshopping the repositioned numbers, cleaning them up and measuring distances before I sent the plans to my vinyl friend. It should take a week to get the vinyl.

[Dervy]

some more awesome work john, its funny how twin exit exhaust really suit estates, mine is getting the same treatment. i really am going to have to modify my hubs in the same way, so i hope you don't mind me stealing your idea's :)

[Johnny A]

some more awesome work john, its funny how twin exit exhaust really suit estates, mine is getting the same treatment. i really am going to have to modify my hubs in the same way, so i hope you don't mind me stealing your idea's :)

Nah it's cool man, but make sure you follow the warm up and cool down procedures for cast steel otherwise it can crack

[Johnny A]

Small update:
After what Broadghost suggested on reinforcement I decided to take that on board and beef up the carriers, even though putting the original design into a big ass vice and smacking the bottom joint area with a 40LB lump hammer did nothing - I think overkill is still better than weak and flimsy.

Instead of modifying the existing carrier and I decided to start again with a different pair with their hubs and bearings removed for better access. Sorry no half baked images, only completed one:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10522561_10154322388470214_1796727665776847321_n.j pg
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/1910005_10154322388720214_3753665735514529258_n.jp g?oh=1cfcb37e5ceb0bc7ff94cb3040daded3&oe=5447D450

Thicker, wider and much heavier!

I was half way through making the 2nd hub then I ran out of welding gas again!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10363501_10154322389290214_5508101222109591092_n.j pg?oh=70ac04ba2f61d5d74ee3d39e0af6deae&oe=543FA9AB&__gda__=1412797885_25f8148988cb7d463786ffc69a88f30 7

Another thing to happen was a friend of mine who works a few miles from my unit (he attended Billing in the black mk2 cav on our stand), he mentioned at Billing his sisters Vectra-C 1.8 manual was rear ended by someone in a jeep and written off. He has whats left it in the car park out back.... it has the cable shifter turret setup!

Seeing as my cables were a bit worn and my shifter missing the knob I thought it was worth a nose, I had a look and ended up taking the entire assembly.

Upon removal there is a big design difference with this turret:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10405572_10154322388885214_634278550955722052_n.jp g?oh=44b6f27e6e95e969b7186c0595832ef2&oe=54369EBA
The counter-weight is part of the main turret, when you compare it to my current one which has the counter-weight on a separate swing arm:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/10448775_10154250765440214_5247871272677233194_n.j pg

Normally I would use the new turret but as a result of the counter weight being part of the main turret it's about 1 inch taller and would foul the brake master cylinder!

However the new cables are a lot smoother (it was a low mileage model) and the shifter is in better condition too.
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t1.0-9/10552471_10154322388965214_2274428477864904098_n.j pg

Original cable holders Vs new ones:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t1.0-9/10491062_10154322389180214_3480464620811495410_n.j pg

My TIG welding friend modified the coolant pipe for me:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10533683_10154322389420214_8492494146114980026_n.j pg

Only other news is I experimented with the digi dash's rev counter and using a sanding disc on a dremal I can remove the numbers easily, I spent 2 hours in photoshop making up the new numbers in perfect positions - the file was when emailed to my vinyl guy so we will see what turns up in a few days.

[The Simps]

Been a while since I've been in here and loving the work you're doing mate. :thumbs:

[Benn]

CAble bracket looks much more heavy duty, Beef up hubs look stronger too. I love it.

[Johnny A]

Update:

With both hub carriers extended I popped one on to see how it looked:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t1.0-9/10492616_10154329696745214_1730048073624058005_n.j pg

The I cut and spotted on the steering arm end:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t1.0-9/10553606_10154329696560214_9078949644326556050_n.j pg
I opted for a reverse +20mm this time.

After much more welding and grinding both carriers are ready for paint:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/t1.0-9/1912210_10154329697590214_7434934428236713858_n.jp g

Next up is the alternator, in it's factory position it runs close to the cross member and O/S tie bar bracket. This isn't the concern though as it clears fine and with the addition of the 1.5 inch engine raise there is even more gap, the problem is FMIC pipe routing. I need to get a 2" alloy pipe between the tie bar and alternator, with the alternator in factory position this was never going to happen.

So I chopped off the factory bracket locations and rewelded them on, moving the alternator pulley to the outer crank belt groove and also upward so the top of the alternator is just below the coolant pipe:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10574464_10154329696910214_3403954187689931837_n.j pg?oh=c50a4ca38a5238241aade6a54aaa22db&oe=543C3977&__gda__=1413021960_c944e8fb4931e2fd15100ddf5d4995b 4

It's not a massive change and certainly no one will notice, but it's enough:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t1.0-9/10494618_10154329697170214_4097810823093413586_n.j pg

I had an hour or so left so I moved onto the next task - engine position tweak. I wanted to shift the engine over towards the O/S by 5mm to fine tune the inner CV positions and also move the end of the gearbox inboard to clear the wheel a bit better. I cut and welded the O/S engine mount inwards and the rear one just required a plate spacer removing.

Here are the bits requiring paint now:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10494804_10154329697840214_8308532363053467175_n.j pg

[BRoadGhost]

Put the caliper mounting points on the other side; be the man!

[Johnny A]

I'd be lying if I said I hadn't considered it!

[Benn]

Awesome work John.

[Johnny A]

Not much done on the actual car, I must have spent 4 hours cleaning up 6 months of crap. It was getting out of control really and I hate working in dirt and filth, the amount of grinding I had been doing the floor was thick with a layer of metal:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/l/t1.0-9/10479607_10154336047150214_4254011397962859433_n.j pg?oh=5a8f9a80171c65e9ceaab16644eee655&oe=54525623

Poor old Henry the vacuum cleaner had a rough time of it, filling two bags full of metal and dirt!

Engine was dropped, I removed the Corsa-B steering rack clamp and chopped a section out to allow the shifter cables to have a clear path. Then it's bolted back on and engine back on it's mounts:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/10552477_10154336046910214_794986138041061806_n.jp g
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/l/t1.0-9/10353102_10154336047000214_196023487087422800_n.jp g

I can move the cables inside the cabin with my hands so it should make for a very nice shift once complete:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10525651_10154336047270214_6453630798961081103_n.j pg?oh=bbb9017f3563ebf591dd59c6ffc15415&oe=5438BC64&__gda__=1413102706_5613873287e72f2a2b458bdfdacc3f4 e

[Balley]

Very good work, I love how stuck in you get! Dan.

[Benn]

Love the cable work, and they give a really nice change.

[Johnny A]

Love the cable work, and they give a really nice change.

Will be like this to use:
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j125/Johnnyaspec/VGNX2_zps94fff823.gif

[Benn]

Sef has it no? That felt nice.

[Johnny A]

Yeah but the shifter in the cabin is properly worn out, will be making a metal solid version with spherical bearing tings eventually!

[Johnny A]

Small update:
The weather makes it difficult to work! Have you tried intense welding with shorts on? I don't recommend it!!

Ash hoses were selling off their faulty stock so I grabbed a load, 5x 1 meter length flexi hoses for £29 delivered thank you!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/12205_10154350809280214_3178142915982232873_n.jpg? oh=d3e7fd1e976bbb987872e4a184bdf63d&oe=5437ABB3&__gda__=1413310970_4205dc916f79b25b3bc5b5a197dac3e 0

Hole cut out for shifter cables:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10330477_10154350809515214_7055167496556516599_n.j pg?oh=76315faef3692f89ec78a660f54f90a8&oe=5456A406&__gda__=1413219600_9400ec2fac62998bae1a73894b44c11 a

Bulkhead cleaned up:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10537386_10154350809065214_1403451551582952613_n.j pg?oh=579c2052fb2f916f63e213d20085cfd0&oe=54568118&__gda__=1412752398_ee4fab531123a17a1a37098c3f52b97 2

and welded up:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10519183_10154350809765214_8724762381840503486_n.j pg

[BRoadGhost]

Tidy; now put some jeans on

[Johnny A]

Tidy; now put some jeans on

yes dad lol

[Johnny A]

Update:
Brake flexi holders raised:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/10389195_10154357590055214_7189609080823737752_n.j pg

Finished off N/S chassis rail mods:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10553370_10154357590255214_5833225604430959461_n.j pg?oh=504e96d43f27bed5c67efb7c1ef38a2e&oe=5434DAE2&__gda__=1414834077_fc3bac16b03841f31dcc6d0cab50394 a

Finished off O/S chassis rail mods:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10580115_10154357590135214_1824508592626140344_n.j pg?oh=53751b08968b6114d5bfb84ed570453c&oe=543BFA01

Bought this:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10538067_10154357590440214_1491527119080364632_n.j pg?oh=b2370db65747146e1b6706bd21030590&oe=5448FBF0
Did this to it:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10525854_10154357590560214_9174262049406951703_n.j pg
Now it fits on here:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t1.0-9/10534096_10154357590380214_6536335604580850748_n.j pg

The reason for the 8 ball isn't because its the 8 ball but because this is my 8th Nova :D

Marmite mod here, single wiper:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t1.0-9/10556414_10154357590915214_7913173933126394515_n.j pg
I am going to see how the police fair with it being in the upright position, might have to move it though.

Generally the engine bay is finished now:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10568888_10154357591040214_1895958395989022871_n.j pg?oh=fa90741dfa286cb4f978356b62f48666&oe=5456D40C

Bar the paint and a few tweaks like the fuel filter bracket:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10561673_10154357591350214_1749512699156987812_n.j pg?oh=74808c6132eed16fb0a7903130e6a4e7&oe=543799FF&__gda__=1412709248_3462f08fba7c30723fa4718f76d32a6 9

and this little gem:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10527596_10154357591445214_3403006618602101822_n.j pg?oh=882e753915049c5460a400597a1c4a6d&oe=545722E3&__gda__=1414728092_33e8d8635ff12aee1104fd548bf3960 e

Then you clip this onto it:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10419433_10154357591640214_6757133614211381940_n.j pg

Then it's lid:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10592830_10154357591495214_2874628511778621724_n.j pg?oh=9f53a3c46c785bcd2b191ee3541ca445&oe=544F37FE

One thing I didn't like about Nova wiring was a lack of a main fuse to the fuse box in the cabin, so I decided to go all out and fit a distribution block from a mk4 Astra.
Only need 4 fuses though:
Main power (to the fuse box)
EPAS
Engine loom
Audio amp

[Benn]

This is something i've thought of doing, as mine lines bend a lot.. So seemed the best way to fix it...

https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/10389195_10154357590055214_7189609080823737752_n.j pg


Nice big wide swipe. What set up is that using?

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t1.0-9/10556414_10154357590915214_7913173933126394515_n.j pg

Love the 8ball, infact i love it all.

[Johnny A]

Cheers Ben, yeah this is something I noticed on other big drop cars. The only downside to this is that custom lines are needed - but considering I need them anyway on the front lines (due to the interaction between the master cylinder and the cable shift turret).

The single wiper was brand new off a friend, he had a Nova GTE 8 years ago and found a load of stuff in his shed recently. Along with this single wiper kit, GTE shafts and the fuel cradle were had for very little :) I have no idea on the make, the instructions don't specify a company or anything but the quality is spot on and the sweep is adjustable.

Update:
Got a little more done today, I welded up the inside of the cable shifter hole area and plated up the first section of tunnel too. I hate welding in a confined space!!

Sorry the picture didn't come out for this :(

Instead have some pics of me playing with the battery and distribution block positions:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/t1.0-9/10494627_10154360939585214_8694638612506847063_n.j pg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10411372_10154360939710214_9155724853216205794_n.j pg?oh=9e1d3b3baea6663315bd4e65bd69ab1f&oe=543C41A4&__gda__=1414692274_dae6c09c9990498ee76011da2c8fe08 c

Two cans of zinc primer later on the engine bay is almost looking respectable:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/10524378_10154360939520214_6186898109919159354_n.j pg

[Johnny A]

Update:

FMIC looks sexual:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10478536_10154378675460214_1331197572136613263_n.j pg

Better picture of the tunnel, the central support has been cut down to flush the tunnel out (don't worry there is a box section inside the tunnel now):
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/t1.0-9/1654215_10154378675515214_7900665019710392478_n.jp g

This is how far I got before the grinder died a death (only lasted 2 months), so I changed the cambelt on the engine. All genuine GM/Isuzu freshness:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10929_10154378675675214_5507024361582148655_n.jpg? oh=349e374ddd7aaa7e8e2ed921ed427941&oe=544069F6

Water pump has seen better days:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t1.0-9/10556524_10154378675625214_838241047223971164_n.jp g

Today I got a new grinder so a rot free slam panel goes in and the radiator mounts are welded in position:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/t1.0-9/10557292_10154378675750214_7123961406019078054_n.j pg

Back to the tunnel, the shifter is in place. But because the shifter is further back it fouls the handbrake:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10524377_10154378675835214_6043546624255157268_n.j pg?oh=b5805b1d4507f8fba418fd6bc1b0234a&oe=5440A674

Yeah so this happened:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/t1.0-9/10599227_10154378675945214_8545034875372014410_n.j pg

Welding it back in about 4 inches further back:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10390055_10154378675990214_7843210575711286558_n.j pg

Better:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10583924_10154378676050214_5618815366255853911_n.j pg?oh=1c4d66650d9b18e7a3f79f2ccfabc8ed&oe=5453D3AB&__gda__=1414270653_794d6339ad9c6a9b8843c5c0580d751 c

[nova_niek]

LOL I love how you don't hang about and also enjoy your practical approach to things like the handbrake position. :thumb:

[Southie]

The words "because I can" come to mind, a thread of inventiveness ;)

[Johnny A]

Cheers guys, I am like an American police officer but with an angle grinder. I cut first and ask questions later :D

[Southie]

This is up your street then, last night I played a blank CD at full blast. The mime next door went nuts. lol

[Johnny A]

This is up your street then, last night I played a blank CD at full blast. The mime next door went nuts. lol

haha wtf!

[dgbnova#1]

I think Johnny wants to join the A team lol

I do love your updates it's always something out the box spot on mate

are you going to badge it up I found a new 1.7tdi badge in that new gm parts kept it to ask if you wanted it

[Southie]

haha wtf!
Basically it's all a little mad but makes sense in the end ;)

[Johnny A]

I think Johnny wants to join the A team lol

I do love your updates it's always something out the box spot on mate

are you going to badge it up I found a new 1.7tdi badge in that new gm parts kept it to ask if you wanted it

Maybe, you got a pic? I really want the 'Turbo intercooler' badge though

[dgbnova#1]

That off the mk3 astras green and blue ones ?

http://i1328.photobucket.com/albums/w535/dgbnova1/dgbnova%20parts/9AA9A204-DEFA-4BF7-A34C-4AFD53F17F5E_zps8mfshm5a.jpg (http://s1328.photobucket.com/user/dgbnova1/media/dgbnova%20parts/9AA9A204-DEFA-4BF7-A34C-4AFD53F17F5E_zps8mfshm5a.jpg.html)

[Johnny A]

No Dave black and red:
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/DdsAAOxyrrpTjJ7E/$_35.JPG

[dgbnova#1]

Color blind lol I rember now

[Johnny A]

Update:
I really really hope I am happy with the single wiper conversion:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/1920010_10154397994330214_4292867630268528149_n.jp g

Windscreen removed, all that nasty bonding sealant removed, all primed up:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10550841_10154397994440214_6156520727695821207_n.j pg
I was chuffed to find no rot hiding under the sealant :D

https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10448255_10154397994220214_3592139500680441417_n.j pg?oh=df259ba4b34b719dd91f411b8d058f39&oe=546FFB41

The bay gets two coat of white, the battery tray area only has one coat in this pic:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10606398_10154397994615214_1393916502013582335_n.j pg?oh=5b9c6627f8038cedb5bffd81bb9f3aa4&oe=547092CF

Skim of filler over the old wiper hole:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/10509558_10154397994935214_4295994358375332329_n.j pg

New bulkhead insulation fitted:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10909_10154397995110214_6880262716200073539_n.jpg? oh=12f7fa83f42a6b28abc8443b668bb109&oe=547878BD

I have also cleaned and painted in hammerite black:
Brake servo
GTE front tie bars
Modified hub carriers
Modified alternator bracket
O/S engine mount

[nova_niek]

Ooooh nice! Did you get a new bulkhead insulation panel, or is this the old one? Looks brand new. :thumb:

[Johnny A]

Yeah it's a new one :D

[Iain]

Cracking work Johnny. I too am loving the chop chop approach to things should be a unique motor

[Benn]

Looks awesome dude. Love it. Can i just say tho, filler is better put on to bare metal tho.

[Johnny A]

Update:
Pedalbox and steering column are bolted in and I set to work changing the position of the brake pedal stopper and switch, I ended up relocating them both to the right of the pedal and using a metal bar to push them. In this picture you can see how different the column angle is:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10599437_10154405457785214_7188469694070568361_n.j pg?oh=09d676ac360a8228dc969f2fcfcc10b6&oe=5477B08C&__gda__=1416097001_d874b3cf0a0b2a2b0082736f07f2936 9

Corsa-B 2.8 Turn steering rack cleaned, painted, fitted with poly bushes and a modified Corsa-B securing bracket:
https://scontent-b-ams.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/10606227_10154405457830214_7107616372538869975_n.j pg

With the pedalbox modified and strengthened it all came back out for painting, I hacked up the dash to start fitting the Carlton digi dash housing and also to locate the dashboard speakers. In this Nova I opted for 3-way coxial 4" front speakers to avoid any door card hacking, they are secured directly to the chassis back panel. I then cleaned and painted:
https://scontent-b-ams.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10615973_10154405457960214_7657391703905330576_n.j pg?oh=550a331f1c010dfef787ec31ae6c51b1&oe=5462194B

The dashboard hacking so far:
https://scontent-b-ams.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t1.0-9/10603396_10154405457885214_6188268893072513777_n.j pg

I will be able to fit the digi dash in with the headlight switch on the end, so a simple fog light switch relocation will be needed.

[craig green]

Good work as always.

I am feeling some envy for the firewall jacket, I enquired at my local stealership about one of these when I did my resto. Something like £500 odd +vat!!!

[Johnny A]

Thanks, I got lucky with the jacket. There was two for sale on here about 6 months ago and I nabbed one.

[Johnny A]

Update:
With the front part of the cabin metal painted I have gone sound proofing mental, a bulk pack of Silent Coat 2mm deadening, some fatmat 2mm deadening I had left over and GM's best OEM stuff are my weapons. Pictures are a bit scarce but the deadening was put down on all the bulkhead, wheel bulges, front floorpan and inner sides of the sill panels. Then the GM stuff has the middle tunnel cut out and placed in the car, then come the pedalbox and EPAS steering column followed finally by the shifter assembly:
https://scontent-b-ams.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/10599242_10154415052885214_148227869658454950_n.jp g

Next up the engine goes in:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10538061_10154415052830214_6918220976465184872_n.j pg?oh=2b8dbaeb11b68810603ba40017277f7a&oe=54804D6A&__gda__=1416617340_78427f6f2b2edf9b747e3db5ea6bcc0 e

The fuel filter/pre-heater is a tad close:
https://scontent-b-ams.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t1.0-9/1743547_10154415052925214_4051765903025703949_n.jp g

Shifter assembly, brand new GM clutch cable and new GM throttle cable all attached and working perfectly:
https://scontent-a-ams.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10552492_10154415053040214_1694871944612082549_n.j pg?oh=f55f3c6067a88b2eba4091fbeae37803&oe=547E966A

[nova_niek]

Nice progress, you will appreciate the effort gone into the soundproofing. :thumb:

[scott.parker]

Are them fire will "jacket's" just for sound deadening, or are they fire retardant too?
Just most people remove them not fit them, and I remember they trapped water on mk2's creating more rotten issues..
Like the idea of sound proofing inside, make it much more comfortable for long journeys.

[Benn]

Very nice, added sound deadening is a very very nice touch.

[Kev Turbo]

Love the new bulk head sound deadening - Where did you source it? Would love a new one for mine!

[Johnny A]

Very nice, added sound deadening is a very very nice touch.

Cheers Ben, I bought a 41 sheet bulk pack which is enough for the whole chassis. This stuff is very good, I got one sheet (about 1 foot square) and put it on the boot floor above the backbox on SEF - Cabin noise noticeably dropped.. with 1 sheet!!

[Benn]

Really? That's bloody good. Link me as i wanna do the rear of mine...

[Johnny A]

Really? That's bloody good. Link me as i wanna do the rear of mine...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/sound-deadening-shop?_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2754

I bought the 41 sheet 2mm thick pack, but obviously you don't need that much!!

[dgbnova#1]

Cheers Ben, I bought a 41 sheet bulk pack which is enough for the whole chassis. This stuff is very good, I got one sheet (about 1 foot square) and put it on the boot floor above the backbox on SEF - Cabin noise noticeably dropped.. with 1 sheet!!

One sheet does PLENTY? lol

[dgbnova#1]

I'm so gutted I passed on that bulkhead cover now as on looking for one now

[Johnny A]

One sheet does PLENTY? lol

Dear god who let him out of the cage! lol

[dgbnova#1]

I been busy sorry lol

[Johnny A]

Today I did some more assembling including putting the drivers seat in, the new positioning of everything feels great:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10562947_10154422566960214_4711142885438814214_n.j pg

Tomorrow starts the mind-**** that is wiring up the alarm!

[dgbnova#1]

You like alarms especially full of water there the mutts nuts

seats look awsome I think I'd like mine further back like that

[Johnny A]

Yes mate no ****er would think to look for the alarm module if it's underwater lol

Being a tall git like me you can see the benefits of moving the seat back... moving the seat back is easy... its everything else that's the ****

[Johnny A]

Update:
Wiring mind-**** ahoy as the alarm is wired in:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10603239_10154426417125214_4105689476497431900_n.j pg?oh=86d8f0973843d4852c3ac415203d34d7&oe=54705B3C&__gda__=1417563272_f4889e34eaa13999133eadf68454200 e

Also modded hubs have their bearings
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/t1.0-9/10624921_10154426417045214_2047131342705406459_n.j pg

Today I was busy with other errands but I did manage to squeeze a few hours in, I took the OE relay box from the Astra3 breaker. It took a bit of fiddling to sit correctly but it looks good, originally it housed the fuel heater relay and fuse housing but I will be using it for the glow plug relay too.

I also decided to fully integrate the engine's harness into the Nova's chassis harness to make the whole thing look cleaner:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t1.0-9/16688_10154429560370214_3252960051449992579_n.jpg

[BRoadGhost]

Well you better be keeping it a while

[Johnny A]

No **** lol If someone bought it and wanted to put a petrol lump in I would imagine the owner would replace the entire harness!

[Southie]

I hate wiring at the best of times but that's a right spaghetti mess of a mind f*** :eek:

[Mieran]

Johnny have you thought about making some duel perch coilovers for the front? You could always sell the GAZ on.

[Southie]

Johnny have you thought about making some duel perch coilovers for the front? You could always sell the GAZ on.
Could be wrong, is that what the civic guys tend to use?

[Mieran]

Yeah most jap cars and its what he had on the Carlton too

[Johnny A]

Johnny have you thought about making some duel perch coilovers for the front? You could always sell the GAZ on.


Could be wrong, is that what the civic guys tend to use?

Yes and Yes guys lol

I have bottom brackets that are suitable to use on the Nova, but I would need to purchase suitable threaded main bodies and all the bits.

It is something I may consider in the future if these Gaz are no good

[Mieran]

I don't rate GAZ tbh, not for how much they cost anyway!

[Johnny A]

The ride felt good when I was being towed

[Johnny A]

9 hours of wiring!!! I also fitted the alternator and wired that in too. The Engine bay wiring is 95% done, just 3 wires left which are the immobiliser circuit. In the cabin I need to wire up the indicator circuits to the alarm and also add a relay for the remote boot release, also need to add the Dom pulse converters, several dashboard feeds (revs, speedo), add the epas ECU plus feeds and the electric window harness. There appears to be a total lack of a stereo harness... however the original dashboard had a cage in it so I can only think that Burgo stole the harness for one of this other projects.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10460806_10154433125765214_1227875861319397335_n.j pg

[Johnny A]

Update:
Wiring completed in the engine bay:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10418376_10154454121215214_7675134265453069045_n.j pg?oh=a144c8ebdb1a92657a76bc4fb0e2d10b&oe=5477A157&__gda__=1417557313_25ec099fa1a2443b1b29e3469cd37db 6

At the moment I will run a bypass on the FMIC and low boost, so I bodged up a pipe to connect the turbo to the inlet:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10568854_10154454121730214_7321296660351049967_n.j pg?oh=ed77972d25c058787ee53cf836263c81&oe=547DB231&__gda__=1416297572_5846a23d25ad55803b6f878987b484a c

Now for the setbacks :(

First up is the brakes, I have opted for Cav Turbo calipers and 284mm 4-stud discs and today I needed to fit a front wheel to see how the front suspension arms would need tweaking. But before I got that far I bolted up some old 256mm discs (just to get the wheel spacing correct) and noticed this:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10565235_10154454121535214_8296533383200865657_n.j pg?oh=97571f55caa2e80f0dedf4054c57abee&oe=545D11B9

Like a tw@t I checked the carrier-to-disc clearance but not with the addition of the bottom ball joint itself!!

So basically the biggest sized brakes I can use is 256mm stuff, no big deal as they are ample but its still gear I don't have and won't be able to source in time for the show this weekend :(

The second setback was the bottom part of the sump, like most designs the upper part of alloy and the bottom is steel so rot eats them out. Now I was aware that it was leaking a bit and I was expecting a buggered seal. I removed the bottom part and was greeted by this on the inside:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/10635799_10154454121360214_4695228364237170121_n.j pg

Massive amount of sealant??

The outside is worse!! The entire area was covered in P38 body filler and smoothed to look like metal!!!!!! Much grinding and heavy wire brushing revealed a fair amount of repairs using an early learning centre welder operated by a blind chimpanzee:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10629710_10154454121295214_7562582235908980659_n.j pg

[Benn]

That's a big of a bugger on the brakes discs. The sump is a very interesting fix.. :( Are you replacing the sump or fixing it?

[Johnny A]

That's a big of a bugger on the brakes discs. The sump is a very interesting fix.. :( Are you replacing the sump or fixing it?

Its a let down yeah but as this car isn't going to see any racing its not a massive issue, 256mm stuff will do fine. The sump will have to be repaired, I will cut out the bodge and weld in some decent stuff - will probably weld some skid plates to the belly too.

[nova_niek]

Indeed a bugger on the brake disks - looks like a little rethink is on the cards. Thumbs up for the wiring though, well impressed with that. I've done a bit of wiring myself over the past weeks and I found it massively time consuming. :cool:

[craig green]

Sump - WTF!

[Benn]

SKID PLATES!?! Yes i love that!

[Novaloony]

Ive just sat here and read all 39 pages, And can i say WOW. The amount of detail is immence, No stones left unflipped. And everything done to an extremely high standard!. Keep the pics coming because this is one epic build thread!.

Joe,
Ps, Dont forget my driveshafts at RRG haha. Fingers crossed when i get my nova up to work, Ill have some decent updates to post on my projects thread.

[BRoadGhost]

You've chopped the knuckles once; you're simply a V shaped cut, bend & re weld away from having any size disk you like on there. Now get to it!

Developing such things you rarely nail 1st time; I've just had my pedal box modified (at great expense) for the third time for the sake of a few millimeters / mil of operation.

[Johnny A]

Update! Sorry for the lack of updates but I have been a bit distracted with another car and also its wall to wall car shows!

Anyway I have managed to get work done, here we have the fully repaired sump with two thick skid plates:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10417490_10154509184570214_8020855556114761570_n.j pg?oh=fcb6e96c4836da6180078a4b8adb68ec&oe=548C0113&__gda__=1419662597_8eee1e3d48b6b7cad3c33e895b40ae8 3

Fitted:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10690184_10154509185040214_2773844319406078294_n.j pg?oh=8eb2e254443dd7995765c78ceb909e0b&oe=54CFF745

GM in their penny pinching ways didn't want to modify the Jap engine to handle a GM style oil pressure switch, so they used the Jap one with a wiring adapter. This meant I couldn't use the dual sender/sensor setup that the digi dash uses. So using several adapters I managed to step up the sizes to make a GM setup work:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10671440_10154509184635214_6748092732927922029_n.j pg?oh=922cc77e7a6765d6b615a67539cea687&oe=549AE6F4&__gda__=1419534753_04ec558b5657fb5411ac0babcb09d62 7

Sticks out a lot but clears fine:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/1554553_10154509184955214_4296514103034831934_n.jp g?oh=2eaf897a9b54c6a3fa0c903aeb3ab47b&oe=54CFEFC9&__gda__=1419243939_fefae2d5170f451a0d60a500d8c3c5f 1

Due to the proximity of the master cylinder and the shifter turret the factory front brake lines are no good, so some goodridge goodies inbound:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10606534_10154509184520214_913408002633063558_n.jp g?oh=eec306dfd61041f66c7bed4a6767f391&oe=54892768

Pretty damn close!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10665670_10154509184785214_3779176371588618076_n.j pg?oh=8694acd38abcdd70e2d05f1f79407427&oe=549D87EF&__gda__=1418182402_d6c08ec408d87830988e1bba19dd927 9

https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10606171_10154509184900214_4682734832567491363_n.j pg?oh=e28dc17258c6b5e06053c3efd8a1bf5a&oe=5496E8BD

https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10431463_10154509185185214_3504319070294829886_n.j pg?oh=c15ed2b931d1fe231c8e069a0d93a34f&oe=54835B56

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10355005_10154509185225214_6872032012875299026_n.j pg?oh=b80eab00c6d719247ebdeb6c2a5fb5fb&oe=54891F09&__gda__=1419509100_a439d636b52c31e4b00a5772edaa719 a

[Southie]

Looking good now, when's your target for completion then?

[Johnny A]

No rush, I want everything to be spot on before this thing is on the road

[scott.parker]

No rush, I want everything to be spot on before this thing is on the road

Exactly... I keep getting asked why mines not got the let in already...

[Southie]

No rush, I want everything to be spot on before this thing is on the road
Patience is a virtue I suppose.

[Johnny A]

Patience is a virtue I suppose.

I can feel your disappointment lol

TBH no one will see it at a show till next year now anyways

[Southie]

No disappointment lol At least it will be a long thread to learn from over the next year ;)

[Benn]

Loving the brake like fix, Love Love the sump and skid pan combo!

[Johnny A]

Update:
Just finalising the front suspension which meant modding the wishbones to clear the wheels when on lock:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10676366_10154518551395214_8061095277826708795_n.j pg?oh=f3284fd1330042f15a0e73d0617c10ef&oe=548C2F9E
Ride height was set to where I wanted it:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10689842_10154518550555214_5058718459845266089_n.j pg?oh=b03b763455143c7d9b9483b0667a5b83&oe=5499FD26&__gda__=1419706672_a53be8bb3cce12f8e420a39ef9d053a 2

Some checks for clearance (with wing removed), top:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10635924_10154518550880214_7968605907881790117_n.j pg?oh=69d55a63144d2c2b6016fa2768a0a6fe&oe=549984D5&__gda__=1422531523_23582af823ca1cc131162e71bbf7462 e
back of inner arch:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10411198_10154518551400214_5343128767572431174_n.j pg?oh=75b1e39fa81d20450a34bd6050d20be5&oe=5487B57E&__gda__=1418339475_57ec76d541a637b5d72e4fb1e001783 3

Steering arms:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/1604918_10154518551195214_2668951087930159709_n.jp g?oh=a0494650901880345919887cb641afa8&oe=54CB5E9E&__gda__=1418362785_f3c69ceb07c0d3dedbb1e869b37c4d2 2

Travel in strut:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10646737_10154518551540214_2964823572901894233_n.j pg?oh=06af7d1d78ba62ae4d51a1d2435e2002&oe=549A85E1&__gda__=1417930999_090d473aab32feb33788dd073ae9f33 2

Here is a modified wishbone:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10626780_10154518552745214_2740961923660014919_n.j pg?oh=7640ad40fe43c2dc0fdee9a2addcda9b&oe=54A08035&__gda__=1418089568_884d3e85663d6631be9f7c3c952f93b 9
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10540879_10154518552420214_3706103946935363974_n.j pg?oh=5d1cc96ec68e9f9bad4f09485fae56d9&oe=548E7950&__gda__=1418247685_82f64345923a7dc450fde1065b62b4c b
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10665711_10154518552520214_973695693356754368_n.jp g?oh=5fc33967aa987d4cbc5df4bf5cacab87&oe=5493D1F3&__gda__=1419082872_5da0738ad66298312290da822584dff f

This mod allows the alloy's inner rim to clear when on lock:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10636131_10154518551705214_6366279135136763715_n.j pg?oh=58f65542d7c52af3d79b5168831fcada&oe=548D6D82
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10343026_10154518551905214_8045691940513625820_n.j pg?oh=95cc885775baa5dc297ba992f40b895e&oe=5494F2A2&__gda__=1419127476_2e507760aa8749399b85747e236560d 5
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10370960_10154518552275214_7551651153857279988_n.j pg?oh=5c5017984cd5b46e27fe8dd797377a0a&oe=54CB8FA8&__gda__=1418533847_5f936380a26aa84a1f3140feafcb786 8

Once all done and fitted the last bits are new 256mm discs and calipers, what do we think of the blue? It looks nice with the gold wheels (think subaru colours):
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10599617_10154518553410214_8200570809091777593_n.j pg?oh=2d492fdab03d3415107656f84287530e&oe=549719BA&__gda__=1418525710_eaf81db7c5a5ac9c63faba00d4bbfd2 6

Other bits I managed to sort were the throttle cable (heat shielded) and the vacuum line from the pump:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10665799_10154518553060214_6915242045203520252_n.j pg?oh=daacd0fefa0f2b687762d24f076f16bd&oe=549D5CC4

Vacuum line at the servo:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10686616_10154518553380214_6907980890568492143_n.j pg?oh=e1f17aac9f7570522b55c42626f77299&oe=548B021C&__gda__=1418052681_e02e0c9b4d202b339bbd2e8226296f1 0

[Benn]

Love the wisebone fix, love the lowness yet how straight your steering arms are. I need need to do that mod.

[Johnny A]

Ben there is a way you can do a mod that will get the same/similar results (to get the steering arms straight), PM me

[Edd]

Those bottom arms look like they will be significantly weaker

[Johnny A]

Those bottom arms look like they will be significantly weaker

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10635912_10154518982485214_5027226106583197550_n.j pg?oh=a8bbebcf00c1f9ab9554c7b74858b324&oe=549CE2F0&__gda__=1419567781_0f4a7d0ab5fc7042674cd0e0275533e d

[Edd]

You want weaker bottom arms? :confused:

[brucer]

love the work in this, could please pm me too about your rack arm alterations

[craig green]

Still breaking the mould with this, those arms could still be plated or have a reinforcing rib welded in.

I take it you have a 'friendly' MOT tester in mind when this hits the road? I used to get advisorys for my bottom arms.

[BRoadGhost]

The thing with bottom arms is you want them to bend if you put the thing up a kerb; else it'll be a bent arm and chassis leg. That said, if you can't retain enough rigidity (resistance to twist) through the lower arm that's no good either because it'll just bend under hard cornering / braking.

I effectively half boxed (triangulated) mine from where they bolt through the chassis & have proved to serve both roles.

[Benn]

I half plated mine so they'd be stronger but would bend if ever needed.

[Johnny A]

The wishbones are plenty strong enough.

Update:
With the car finally on it's wheels I set the ride height and did the tracking:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/1383402_10154528170170214_8408529688366089030_n.jp g?oh=2bea37e2e9267aff36a1b6e7f39daaa7&oe=54828B42&__gda__=1418576424_c7be37d2bc4165b8a2ca8040d893c01 b

when on lock the tyre swings close to the back of the inner arch, so I can't go any lower than this without rock hard springs:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10649793_10154528168995214_6653350455176870593_n.j pg?oh=6cf2e29ebb9790f8bfc3be376bd2839d&oe=548529B3&__gda__=1418427813_08cc0d38a184053a35c3ae1feebb293 7

Once set up I pushed it outside to turn it round, I couldn't resist putting it next to SEF for comparison:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10659193_10154528170560214_7159894959221811434_n.j pg?oh=13a92da3e336d1db0494bb5ecf745b7c&oe=548739CB&__gda__=1422908318_ffbf856907af52bcbd2fe6f43069ef2 8
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10509511_10154528170845214_2664724261181403518_n.j pg?oh=904da1f369021ad5001808be36ff563a&oe=54949615
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10635769_10154528170910214_6933376694642934067_n.j pg?oh=a84d44ceedc396de8971235dfb76758f&oe=54C96255&__gda__=1418483384_a22ec0ad13c892404cd928e901a0b1f d
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/1383402_10154528171480214_3904303978416989466_n.jp g?oh=b42053e2c17f0f385ac35bab452adcba&oe=5483BB36&__gda__=1422274140_767738125284b6b254619d9be74ba2b d

The yard is ridden with small potholes and undulations which tested the front setup well, I got no rubbing at all on lock, in fact the only place the tyres caught was on the factory outer arches which I have yet to roll!

Random shot taking from the top mount:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10710713_10154528171590214_3293856797864485845_n.j pg?oh=2728db7fbacd5c3c6a64674745443dd5&oe=54918BD7&__gda__=1422974522_84c38b0b7014865f7584ff58d9fa4bf c

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/994476_10154528172110214_8691083613354561813_n.jpg ?oh=4fda46c7c12bd52d8a88de49aa5c89b8&oe=54C826B5&__gda__=1419105549_8e423ecfe29cba5d126b23be76f7c55 2

annnd back into the unit!
Now it's time to sort out the floor from tank-backwards, removing everything, cleaning and painting as I go.

I removed the rear coilovers and jacked the beam upward till the wheels sat where I wanted:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10532365_10154528172445214_2657224406212103567_n.j pg?oh=139b7f372bf7292c2f66c60d0bc9c293&oe=54CBD2DF&__gda__=1418053792_21785595edb9b640d4d9e46741bcc37 b
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10593189_10154528172925214_6061965910160268135_n.j pg?oh=474aa31155add2d309a7bcf45c46297c&oe=5489E4DE&__gda__=1417824955_f2f2753bdf2a46aed01b509aaff9b59 8
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10703759_10154528172955214_8301052210256664813_n.j pg?oh=9756dc93e2ff1b4f0ee2f34f337720ef&oe=549C4E0A&__gda__=1422414108_b4bd63f1b30bf4bdfdbdf8527965413 0

As with the front nothing catches at this height even though the rear arch lips are untouched.... but it's f*cking close!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10649829_10154528173110214_7273906001956515149_n.j pg?oh=99b11a030210c6798379af271c61f4c6&oe=548E155E&__gda__=1419067720_91af14c73d76601ce81976836983f7b f

Rear beam off and time to mess about raising the stub axles, I have gone with a 60mm rise and a slight tilt, this ensures the handbrake cable lines up with the guides:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10363587_10154528173280214_1120069966093237504_n.j pg?oh=aaa74863e3c7eca9cf5585ebee3f7647&oe=549B9665&__gda__=1418093192_690dd7da3bb58513b3cd4b92f5cddf9 8
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10646874_10154528173490214_5984561257108037937_n.j pg?oh=0fd942a6435afb29efeb3991b6cdbb66&oe=54920934&__gda__=1418996258_e9da2855c38b4c42038bbbf17567808 4
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10632651_10154528173815214_6123108807220655485_n.j pg?oh=e4df5934489a9554d5803b6940ee72f2&oe=54860390&__gda__=1418898566_a46aa3ee576baad34c70c6a02f67c62 2

Now before anyone says something - I have yet to reinforce that plate but it will happen.

[Benn]

This gives me a huge robo chubby!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10703759_10154528172955214_8301052210256664813_n.j pg?oh=9756dc93e2ff1b4f0ee2f34f337720ef&oe=549C4E0A&__gda__=1422414108_b4bd63f1b30bf4bdfdbdf8527965413 0


Love what you're doing here, like the beam mod too. I really wanna build a new beam up for mine. Arm set up looks great, so much room between the arm and cv/shaft.

[dgbnova#1]

You turned the plate forward for extra cable length love it they will need some good plates on them that's for sure I did half that amout and found problems with mine long time ago though I'm sure you will sort it thigh looks the muts nuts

[BRoadGhost]

You can add more castor if you want more clearance on the backs of the front arches.

I'm not 100% sold on raising the stubs; I extended the beam on mine. What's the wheel base measuring at?

[Mieran]

Should have done the rear axle like how the veedub kids do it

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=vw+golf+drop+plates&safe=off&hl=en-GB&biw=1024&bih=494&site=imghp&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=h0UXVLPZFpKv7AbO-ICoCQ&sqi=2&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ#imgdii=_

[Johnny A]

You can add more castor if you want more clearance on the backs of the front arches.


I did think about that, obviously it's something can do in the future but the gain (clearance wise) would be minimal before the wheel is eating the tops of the inner arches elsewhere anyway.


I'm not 100% sold on raising the stubs; I extended the beam on mine. What's the wheel base measuring at?

Well I have never done it before but it seems like the best course of action to get it that low, if I just for example raised the coilover tops upward so the beam could go upward more (like in the pictures where I used the trolley jack) the wheelbase starts to significantly reduce. By raising the stub axles the rear beam is more or less level with the floorpan.

[Benn]

I extended the beam on mine.

Pics please, all this interests me greatly.

[Johnny A]

Should have done the rear axle like how the veedub kids do it

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=vw+golf+drop+plates&safe=off&hl=en-GB&biw=1024&bih=494&site=imghp&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=h0UXVLPZFpKv7AbO-ICoCQ&sqi=2&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ#imgdii=_

That's for the kids with too much money and can't fabricate lol This mod is only costing me the welding and grinding consumables

[scott.parker]

That's for the kids with too much money and can't fabricate lol This mod is only costing me the welding and grinding consumables

Your way is better imo, but the "veedubbs kidies" way is good for spacing there rear wheels for that fwd car rwd stance...

[BRoadGhost]

I'll put some pics if that's ok?

Those bolt on items are a step backwards; weakening where the hub bolts to the beam & they extend the wheels out too.

You'd actually be surprised at the tyre clearance on the front top arches with some good castor.

[Johnny A]

I'll put some pics if that's ok?

Yeah go for it, I am always open to other options


You'd actually be surprised at the tyre clearance on the front top arches with some good castor.

Will bear that in mind if it comes down to it

[Johnny A]

Small update:
Done some more work on the beam, I opted a add a tiny bit more camber to line the tyre up inside the arch so this gives me the absolute most room possible.... well that and all the kool scene kidz are doing it!

Beam foulage:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10670238_10154531518160214_1818827944325257968_n.j pg?oh=0cf6268bfa6d816a9e472995cfc91ab2&oe=549B5C0B&__gda__=1419221598_249a91d72ad1977ce9bd54cd75e6c4e 3

A bit of chopping fixed that!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/995639_10154531518805214_1000091250545866999_n.jpg ?oh=15f80323eb82606f4c03f42785ff9950&oe=54C7739C&__gda__=1422680877_fe98cc258df7a524cd8d5a66bc72a7a e

I then had a little play, bolted everything up and jacked up as high as possible. This is pretty much the tyres sitting snugly on top of the inner arch:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/1654246_10154531518560214_817454522681891552_n.jpg ?oh=d397c54f0bffdb6819ba508572cd2a3e&oe=5490C68E&__gda__=1419234642_fb5c6d9aa5bd91886854d5240b0274c 3

The other (unaltered) side is at this height:
https://scontent-a-ams.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10407510_10154531519095214_2265521844478931374_n.j pg?oh=af5f9d884ae24d0499647566f243110e&oe=54D10428

How is how the beam sits:
https://scontent-b-ams.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10606335_10154531518985214_5616154066008017929_n.j pg?oh=dd946bdfb692112cb7aca3567f7dc767&oe=548A30A0

With the toe and camber perfect I removed the beam and beefed the crap out of the area:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10635790_10154531519395214_5486685006168081740_n.j pg?oh=069b4ab00a287d00223251f1267d9fd8&oe=54979887&__gda__=1422882514_ebf5d6d4fc8e479732e5bc73d04ffc6 7
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10552449_10154531519950214_1414358974534894914_n.j pg?oh=63ed5629d0cf39deb0ccc934170cfec8&oe=548854DD&__gda__=1419087563_a67ee75bfb36ffafcbca0111ed65073 6

Coilover clears fine:
https://scontent-b-ams.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10628485_10154531520590214_3632836890830126743_n.j pg?oh=f53414feadccdc85e2a098a90a26a6b6&oe=54900CFB
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10600649_10154531520040214_4884948126851724147_n.j pg?oh=832028140b340e01809dcaea04fda869&oe=54CEF10B&__gda__=1418195806_03e57f5ce9d2b22322d0b3952907e6b b

I started on the other side too and will finish it off tomorrow:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/1458704_10154531520565214_2821450973052185833_n.jp g?oh=f143ecf03bd1446e4bab69ecdc90ea7c&oe=5487B74C&__gda__=1418273574_b2a503cdcfa302f28a0771da97d52c1 4

[BRoadGhost]

Just cut the inner arches out :)

You might like to box the other holes in the beam now; here's the extension I did:-

http://www.myimg.us/images/09.17.14/45001.jpg

http://www.myimg.us/images/09.17.14/45002.jpg

http://www.myimg.us/images/09.17.14/45003.jpg

http://www.myimg.us/images/09.17.14/45004.jpg

http://www.myimg.us/images/09.17.14/45005.jpg

http://www.myimg.us/images/09.17.14/45006.jpg

http://www.myimg.us/images/09.17.14/45007.jpg

[dgbnova#1]

What was the beam extension for I'm missing something here can see the stub lift dropping the car what 60 mm with standard coilovers etc the beam chop adds 1" wheel base ?

[Johnny A]

Because of the beams arc of travel, when you go this low the beam starts to travelforward so he has counteracted that by adding extra length.

[dgbnova#1]

I see to re centre the wheel as it goes up and forward ?

[dgbnova#1]

Looking at this now I take it the beam chop is to re centre the wheel?
I would make a base plate to suit similar to them vw ones with the additional length added and weld it on like you have

the additional gussets look plenty good to me Johnny

[Johnny A]

Looking at this now I take it the beam chop is to re centre the wheel?
I would make a base plate to suit similar to them vw ones with the additional length added and weld it on like you have

the additional gussets look plenty good to me Johnny

Well there are two ways to fix the issue, mine and his. Both work fine.

Today I finished off the rear beam, it took an hour to get the tow and camber corrected on the N/S!

Nice und low!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10659165_10154534531245214_7153123588754413982_n.j pg?oh=8ecf51a67748cf2cff710636b4fa2d75&oe=549B097E&__gda__=1422135595_5b476f987691733cd1a498c8b902994 e

The picture doesn't offer much perspective but I can tell you the beam is pretty close to the ground!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10689606_10154534530610214_5986804424231783197_n.j pg?oh=512fd3d896c05e0029c2bf744f761120&oe=5493B93B&__gda__=1419455021_afc5127db1687a1abfa158e79b86b81 7

With a little tweak the inside of the rim clears the beam fine:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10660356_10154534530385214_6307523819320094192_n.j pg?oh=b0f9cf27bcdba09098cc2146e5117f35&oe=549116A2&__gda__=1419066292_2ee1178fd50530f3203d0da195e3a50 a
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/984224_10154534530930214_805201759458221745_n.jpg? oh=0e493d8bce36f749985feaf76f9ac9aa&oe=54C611A6&__gda__=1418947133_5180cf777b9bfb695b28e078b9ef15d 6

Backbox pic:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10676375_10154528174150214_5522499656935472750_n.j pg?oh=697b90176cf04b830e15a306b35fd5f2&oe=54902E9F&__gda__=1419220267_4880042243407143fe743705702f907 7

[Iain]

You done all the camber etc by eye or taken measurements/used gauges? I like that idea looks good

[Dervy]

thats some sexy stuff john, keep it coming :)

[Johnny A]

You done all the camber etc by eye or taken measurements/used gauges? I like that idea looks good

camber was done using before/after locations on the arches, the toe was checked first using eye with the chassis as reference then I took it all off and used mirror gauges to check everything was ok.

[Johnny A]

Singular picture today, the only thing I have done today is removing old paint, brake dust and surface rust. I love going home looking like a coal miner!
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10603285_10154538234235214_136505710685162119_n.jp g?oh=6243af5983107caedc16c371310e6fa9&oe=548C970B

Original GM drums (hardly any wear on them!), back plates, rear beam, brake cylinders, handbrake balance bar and a GTE anti-roll bar

[BRoadGhost]

http://s8.postimg.org/ag2o667at/jpeg.jpg

[Johnny A]

Haha too lazy, be a good boy or I will paint the drums florescent green lol

[staggy_gsi]

Theres no need for rear discs on a nova anyway. Its just a looks thing isnt it!

[BRoadGhost]

If I'm honest cable operated shoes inside drums or disks aren't a good design; the two pairs never seem to open / wear equally.

I just want to throw all that away including the cable, fit the left side caliper assembly on the right & vise versa, then run the standard handbrake with a hydraulic master cylinder.

[Benn]

Why swap the side to side?^

[Johnny A]

Yeah I agree that shoes are an outdated design, look crap and never wear evenly. But I couldn't be bothered to much about with fitted Corsa-C rear discs again and also the cost, I am rebuilding all the shoe internals and its all painted so it will be acceptable.

[_Jake]

may i ask what you do for a living? imo both rear beam and tie bars are deadly.

[Johnny A]

Small update:
Rear beam is all painted now:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10592775_10154554783900214_1117747016064816634_n.j pg?oh=3b848a06317a6d453350ca3f3b348ca9&oe=54C984C3&__gda__=1418009207_e7dd429d89223e754d2f571f1e84000 0

I removed the fuel tank, I am happy to say its in great condition; aside from a little surface rust in places its perfect :D
A session with the wire drill and 2 layers of hammerite later:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10649533_10154554781980214_2691590490678767356_n.j pg?oh=61fbd259402450886e9e283947b7e372&oe=54CCBE62

I removed the fuel filler neck, I had a spare one too but the top has been hacked up:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10628461_10154554784480214_4799718032557258609_n.j pg?oh=d80c143b6f983fcdf12fff900bb23c08&oe=54904ED7&__gda__=1418137793_d343f36aa1de68b0c5de1fb199e0391 9

I noticed the hacked up one has an anti-siphon sprung loaded plate inside it:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10534716_10154554783850214_4496813008271579942_n.j pg?oh=bc0e163839de7a331ff7f9f019a0830f&oe=54C4F585&__gda__=1422713905_dd7794a15b0629bd83f3a7cec795646 c

It doesn't matter that the hacked up one has been.. hacked up as I plan to relocate the fuel filler to the door shut; I plan to cut up both filler necks to make the new one using this cap:
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MzcxWDM3OQ==/$%28KGrHqR,!ogE8VZ780+PBPVk7tY%29dg~~60_12.JPG

[Benn]

may i ask what you do for a living? imo both rear beam and tie bars are deadly.

In what way? Strong welds and reinforced metal, will make them stronger...

[Johnny A]

Small update:
Beam gets the painted GTE rear ARB and new bushes:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10660164_10154557956115214_3457013129031259778_n.j pg?oh=5bdfb3829d85757f0f91196ab02822f0&oe=548B4398&__gda__=1418791054_909f2fc9fb6435758fdaa91b5f51090 4

I started work on relocating the filler cap, progress was slow thanks to a visit from a Lotus Carlton to pick up some bits. After he went I pressed on and didn't take pics till I ran out of welding wire!
I constructed this part of the new filler pipe:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1937490_10154557955655214_6696231980046516337_n.jp g?oh=a933b9072b2115198063c8ffb29a1e35&oe=54BB8F23

Then cut a hole in the inside of the sill and poked the pipe through it:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10649934_10154557954325214_6003956138062624994_n.j pg?oh=d6d243d5768356c839127bc4e8e0fe44&oe=54BB4239

Using a mock-fuel tank I was able to line it all up perfectly, inside the O/S/R inner wing area the pipe pops up behind the seat belt tensioner:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10645025_10154557953900214_7804183405637519704_n.j pg?oh=b4cd59c1a9d1d96314c6a81958668fc5&oe=54C15835&__gda__=1418806352_aa7f9255bac7d32fea844b6a978095e 6

With tensioner removed:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/1391925_10154557953270214_6818507043849197759_n.jp g?oh=852e37004010c5a57d989b11c2f5c4c5&oe=548C4E58&__gda__=1422607343_1011d162d03e7ad62cdf3f8adc80899 d

Once I have cleaned up the end of the sill/area area this pipe will be welded into place, the upper section (which will be joined with another hose) will look something like this:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10616478_10154557952970214_6294934871811615172_n.j pg?oh=b7bb16c36135c27b29efa3bf65ac7dd1&oe=548A0746&__gda__=1423000818_77f68946db6da22a3cd6bb7ddc182dc c

Cheeky Mk2 rear bumper:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10448765_10154557955085214_8169127232664763078_n.j pg?oh=ad51f1089745becb18c133f0cdd35c9e&oe=548E8CDE&__gda__=1422137531_fa0477e65ca2ce7875312078b352ac6 9

[bazzap8389]

Good quick progress mate, top job!

[BRoadGhost]

Heh; don't think they're under engineered to a deadly degree jake, at all.

Left to right swaps on the rear hubs so the bleed nipple stays at the top and the calipers are more inboard - you wouldn't be able to do this as simply if you're on a cable still.

[Benn]

Ah i get ya, so it would just be hydo fed, could you have a handbrake on a 2nd caliper like some "super cars" have, think R8 and things.

[BRoadGhost]

Nah just run it in series like the rally boys do to the same caliper; so long as the handbrake locks on it's an MOT pass.

It's on the to do list!

[fearless]

MOT requires a mechanical means of stopping the vehicle - so would still require some sort of cable to be present - although proving the cable is doing something is not something the tester can do ;) Even rallycars have to have a cable now !!

[staggy_gsi]

MOT requires a mechanical means of stopping the vehicle - so would still require some sort of cable to be present - although proving the cable is doing something is not something the tester can do ;) Even rallycars have to have a cable now !!

I never knew that, and I only did my MOT refresher course 2 weeks ago!

[Benn]

Nah just run it in series like the rally boys do to the same caliper; so long as the handbrake locks on it's an MOT pass.

It's on the to do list!

Pics when you do!

[Johnny A]

MOT requires a mechanical means of stopping the vehicle - so would still require some sort of cable to be present - although proving the cable is doing something is not something the tester can do ;) Even rallycars have to have a cable now !!

I did think about doing this mod to my Carlton estate as it already has the hydraulic rear caliper and a drum inside the disc, I'd run an inline master cylinder (Land rover one) and remove the internals of the drum but leaving the cables and return springs in place.

That way the MOT guy would see the cables and when doing the roller test it would all work as it should.

[Johnny A]

Update:
As you guys know I purchased a simple fuel filler screw on cap, it used a stainless weld-on feed pipe and a aluminum screw on cap with seal. I made up a steel plate to weld onto the vent area in the door shut, I then cut a hole and welded the feed pipe into it. The pipe distorted badly (welder was set low and weld was done in small stages), even after a session in the vice the aluminium cap was hard to screw up. :(

Failure! So I bit the bullet and sourced a flush fit type filler cap and got to work:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10514754_10154574618005214_6466962937126109231_n.j pg?oh=8a25a8fa6358ef9337139c6153ec53a4&oe=5485B959&__gda__=1421296908_719ba7347a44acc472db883b98701a6 c

Hate this bit, 2nd time i'd done it too:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10687042_10154574618040214_7500270742854589037_n.j pg?oh=c6909fe841d7920a6a3c644d12e9fcf0&oe=54CC588A&__gda__=1422884079_1918e26a128a434d02e983ccddeeac2 8

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10645310_10154574617200214_4699401283677377123_n.j pg?oh=4f862e4a8d67f8870be7f43285542e94&oe=5489ED34&__gda__=1421289313_08d7aff6b40261fea761904438a3c76 d
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10660238_10154574618155214_173631271760646173_n.jp g?oh=f3f284e402160f30ac8780dfc4fc8e67&oe=54BFC7B6

and... bolted in:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/1453370_10154574617480214_6388144707124643984_n.jp g?oh=8ec6899bcf0c659807dca13d796a0185&oe=548B331B&__gda__=1422313762_e1dbd72c3492b3f0683e0fd15b3e27d b

First part of the filler neck getting made:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/16372_10154574618435214_6253477044426571039_n.jpg? oh=f318038d71ccfa57ea7f6a96e08c14d1&oe=5485A273&__gda__=1418296142_dba97423e1abfc08a5923e62edc43a8 b
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10410396_10154574618725214_4437443516498894779_n.j pg?oh=b2e1cefebc87b193d14611d0323d808f&oe=54C14B55

Double check it will all clear:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10703840_10154574619175214_6916963632355729879_n.j pg?oh=e89bd58115de572f3b9ad09b7bde309f&oe=54C04AD0&__gda__=1422649188_849dc1b1b345416ca6df8c1e868c124 3

and zinc primed:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10689602_10154574620265214_5587537380135774189_n.j pg?oh=0b34b302fdbfe286185c34c01edb2597&oe=54C4BB55

After I started wire brushing the crap out of the underside of the car from fuel tank area backwards, plenty of surface rust but nothing to worry about... well until I got to the end of the N/S sill:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10360194_10154574619600214_5696940872396393433_n.j pg?oh=0a35ceb847a7eee1aa8b5ead321912b6&oe=54B46407&__gda__=1422585617_e6c85d03cef2850cbbd20d0c5096fdc 3
Not too bad, only a small patch was needed :thumb:

The rest of the arch was spot on, however on the back of the arch it was pure rust! A real common spot on the saloons is rot here, the N/S was totally gone and the O/S wasn't much better:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10505521_10154574619895214_3795752355159593836_n.j pg?oh=212f5ef42abff9730120a3694cb7ef7a&oe=548592F8

Considering I only have a repair section to do the N/S and decided to go another way, I cut back the rear sections till they were level with the boot floor and also removed the lower part of the rear valance. I will weld up the gaps tomorrow, it made sense to do it this way as I am using a Mk2 bumper which covers all these areas:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10641138_10154574620135214_7053381321246591283_n.j pg?oh=c9c78c4ca2548560e1cdb119710423f7&oe=54B52AFE&__gda__=1421223851_ecb49c948bdcc20257becb82d71c0c1 d

[Benn]

Loving the filler, nice way to do it.

[nova_niek]

In the past I spoke to a chap who did the b-pillar filler conversion and he mentioned you need to get the vent pipe well sorted (don't know in what way though) otherwise filling up at your friendly petrol station becomes a bit of a time consuming affair. Just saying - it could well be that said guy had his vent pipework all wrong? Anyone on this?

[Johnny A]

In the past I spoke to a chap who did the b-pillar filler conversion and he mentioned you need to get the vent pipe well sorted (don't know in what way though) otherwise filling up at your friendly petrol station becomes a bit of a time consuming affair. Just saying - it could well be that said guy had his vent pipework all wrong? Anyone on this?

Yeah the airflow needs to be maintained otherwise the fuel won't go down the filler quick enough, I have a direct route for the breather which runs parallel to the filler pipe so I can't see a reason why it wouldn't work.

[Johnny A]

Also something else I thought about, if the breather for the filler was to drop downwards by at least it's own diameter (so about 10mm) then if you filled the fuel tank up to full it would fill the breather up too. Then when the fuel level drops a small amount of fuel is trapped inside the breather, so when you fill up again the trapped fuel blocks the air??

[Benn]

I had the prob Niek is on about, when my joiner broke, petol pump would just click off over and over... Then one day filled the quarter up with fuel.

[Johnny A]

Yeah Ben I remember your warning about that, with this setup it shouldn't happen even if the breather hose pops off

[Johnny A]

Update:
Welding up the old fuel cap hole:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10304340_10154581880055214_5794121328478548655_n.j pg?oh=6d0039f0a56d65c39bc483f95d439548&oe=54BAF40B
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/1151023_10154581881205214_3887257705891070465_n.jp g?oh=d2d859900a747945e959272e0b7d3083&oe=54C9B3B8&__gda__=1422909825_c4de0cfc817faf224de27561a322f04 1

Welded up the rear panel holes too:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10612751_10154581881060214_9123286809985997006_n.j pg?oh=509149fd14bb7bffbfb50be110070790&oe=54B64191&__gda__=1418189191_c35110269d6d120156054eb0a882bb6 7

Luckily no repair work was needed on this arch, just a bit of surface rust. I welded up the original breather hole but didn't take a pic:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10405360_10154581881295214_7245796883955314611_n.j pg?oh=429b8337194347ec1b6793c2a54e09b4&oe=54869D6F&__gda__=1421836048_f4a76e772f3d23dd563ff9ebb14d17d 2

The inside has seen a lot of action in it's time, the wheel well needs some hammer time too:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10309517_10154581881270214_2541132663176888123_n.j pg?oh=d2001dac19a3360a45f1d71d23ed7a00&oe=54BD9A09&__gda__=1422785823_1f2d08ed07a6c30be2eb1f36b164739 9

Welded up the turrets too, I remember seeing these top mounts bowed upward a while back; so considering the weight this car may be carrying in the future I went a little overkill:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10513305_10154581881460214_7049204742427133351_n.j pg?oh=7a2608092fd4c4704b9c797a02ed253b&oe=54B54DEB&__gda__=1421546686_4c4bf6df835f2689262b8b80aadabe2 7

[nova_niek]

Nice steady progress :thumb:

[Benn]

Looking good john.

[Southie]

Your slowing down on this build, it needs daily updates lol

Nice work as ever though.

[Johnny A]

Your slowing down on this build, it needs daily updates lol

Nice work as ever though.

Yeah I spent a day preparing the Carlton for the MOT, sill was knackered.

I am trying to wean you guys off updates, I am scheduled for surgery on the 17th so will be out of action for at least a month after

[nova_niek]

I am scheduled for surgery on the 17th so will be out of action for at least a month after

What's up that needs a month to recover mate?

[Johnny A]

Hernia :(

Not a big one but it still needs sewing up

[nova_niek]

Hang in there mate :thumb:

[nova_stee]

I tried to start a strimer 3 days after my hernia op safe to say it held better after the second op lol

[scott.parker]

Hernia :(

Not a big one but it still needs sewing up

Good luck dude, I had one when I was 25/26 in 2006 took me 6-8 weeks before I could go back to work..

[dgbnova#1]

Living the hurnia dream me had mine done in march took it easy for months but recent say 3 weeks been playing up Possibly the nature of what I've been doing but still absolute knightmare and constant worry now

[tommy8252]

After I started wire brushing the crap out of the underside of the car from fuel tank area backwards, plenty of surface rust but nothing to worry about... well until I got to the end of the N/S sill:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10360194_10154574619600214_5696940872396393433_n.j pg?oh=0a35ceb847a7eee1aa8b5ead321912b6&oe=54B46407&__gda__=1422585617_e6c85d03cef2850cbbd20d0c5096fdc 3
Not too bad, only a small patch was needed :thumb:

The rest of the arch was spot on, however on the back of the arch it was pure rust! A real common spot on the saloons is rot here, the N/S was totally gone and the O/S wasn't much better:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10505521_10154574619895214_3795752355159593836_n.j pg?oh=212f5ef42abff9730120a3694cb7ef7a&oe=548592F8

Considering I only have a repair section to do the N/S and decided to go another way, I cut back the rear sections till they were level with the boot floor and also removed the lower part of the rear valance. I will weld up the gaps tomorrow, it made sense to do it this way as I am using a Mk2 bumper which covers all these areas:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10641138_10154574620135214_7053381321246591283_n.j pg?oh=c9c78c4ca2548560e1cdb119710423f7&oe=54B52AFE&__gda__=1421223851_ecb49c948bdcc20257becb82d71c0c1 d

This is a pain in the ****, these areas are shot on my cabriolet and one side was shot on my white 4 door. But as you say if your using a mk2 bumper it's a fairly straight forward repair.

Excellent work as usual.

[scott.parker]

Living the hurnia dream me had mine done in march took it easy for months but recent say 3 weeks been playing up Possibly the nature of what I've been doing but still absolute knightmare and constant worry now

Dave the scar tissue will give you pain and possibly random stubbing pains for ages, if it's on your grion and you knock it on a bench you'll know about it..

[Johnny A]

Dave the scar tissue will give you pain and possibly random stubbing pains for ages, if it's on your grion and you knock it on a bench you'll know about it..

Yeah guys this is making me feel a whole lot better about it lol

[Novasport]

I was advised the Mk2 Cav repair sections can be used to repair the rear quarter lower sections ;)

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Opel-Ascona-C-Bj-81-88-Eckblech-hinten-rechts-2-4Tuerer-/00/s/MjcwWDUwMA==/z/5BsAAOSwxH1T7hIi/$_12.JPG

[dgbnova#1]

Sorry !
Think I pushed it to soon but recent I have been fitting big kitchens so not ideal

[Johnny A]

It's surprising how many people I know who have had the same problem as me, but being the case I have got a ton of advise. I will be fine guys, in fact the worst bit about it is being forced to not touch my car for a long time! I might loose what little sanity I have left!

[Johnny A]

Updatings!!!
As you know I am not running rear seats, instead I am running a large van-style flat loading area. For the most part the boot is flat but as it goes over the rear seating area brackets are needed:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10409120_10154644440155214_7229379922460017251_n.j pg?oh=8a39de1557dbacef0cac127e7abb5629&oe=54B49153&__gda__=1420831813_0a4816ed3b5745be07ae5fd2a450b20 9
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1920332_10154644441945214_4808313376391112326_n.jp g?oh=a75ce10508b73f3f3bb4c618ad0ff0a0&oe=54B96C71&__gda__=1421771553_eddb5727b0f614cfc7ad57cb1713965 e

The thick ass brackets level out the floor, offer a securing point for the panel and also a retractable loading point, there are two of these at the front.

The floorpan from rear seat area backwards including wheel arches are painted with black hammerite, the floorpan underneath is primed, areas are sprayed with UPOL Graviguard then given a layer of waxoil. Also using a Shultz gun and a can of waxoil I sprayed the insides of the sills and rear arches, the can was heated up for an hour beforehand so the waxoil was like water so it dribbled into all the nooks and crannies - your move rust monster!

Next up was the rear beam, both rear drums needed new shoes and a full rebuild.
Before:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/1888681_10154644442990214_7285303348383836354_n.jp g?oh=b996bd2467dbe191797bbecab97b7028&oe=54C39CB8&__gda__=1421664210_4dce19e43d74593b7f5e35990c78351 d
After:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/1014050_10154644442895214_1624640618087714985_n.jp g?oh=a367057ddaf18132b314e85002dbe9ab&oe=54F7F3EE&__gda__=1420651991_b486f2b03c4ed5cff857ad8006340f8 8

One side built, painted up with new brake lines:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/1016495_10154644444020214_5050178334445652645_n.jp g?oh=b12525a88d960edf0a0ed54f8298544a&oe=54BAEB4D&__gda__=1421672231_af78a8499866d383c1fef402934e0a1 7

Fuel tank all fitted:
https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/1939578_10154644445195214_582274670438543755_n.jpg ?oh=c8d5a527e6a4015cd2de8fe3d9ae5897&oe=54B913C4

Rear coilovers are copper greased up and fitted along with the beam:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10527761_10154644446425214_8833483933710153604_n.j pg?oh=762723be06b2382943e88454a4f9e5b2&oe=54C10DAB&__gda__=1425070525_0fb2f2f533cb5507e20ac94e353e9d4 b

Wheels bolted on:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/1012277_10154644447375214_3566137152194927400_n.jp g?oh=52ecd408e339fb5c996599ef3d8c3f7a&oe=54AAB67E&__gda__=1421429575_750980daa25c4285c321c058b8dcf9b 8
Bare in mind in this picture the wheels are not yet touching the floor!

On the floor with no weight in the back it sits nicely:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10711068_10154644451240214_8465437215983893352_n.j pg?oh=6276d92bf46d9436bd9f81a739045452&oe=54F87C76&__gda__=1420836192_415ea6fdda1fe16af9916e102911d63 f

Looking through the wheel spokes you can see plenty of travel left in the coilover shock:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10659344_10154644450055214_198465569141985135_n.jp g?oh=3a53acaffb96b53d9a4042f3182ef663&oe=54C609D1&__gda__=1421228776_e84a992d143346008e7b736ed362b2e c

Now the arches are rolled I have nearly 20mm of gap in there!!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/1939578_10154644449435214_5144640102777699292_n.jp g?oh=a7b3732b672f5b65f70296367a883e87&oe=54BEF994&__gda__=1422319531_0828942d192df382dfcb39c92adccc9 f

Even bouncing up and down on the tailgate the wheels don't catch, as you can imagine I am chuffed with the results.

However one thing I am not chuffed with is the roof, with the car on the floor the roofline is at chest-height so I decided to investigate some cracking. Taking a flap disc to the area reviled this:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10341687_10154644451030214_690482173242126869_n.jp g?oh=938f83376a0e938f607af19663cd24b7&oe=54AAF98F&__gda__=1425164005_a32f8978c2111c395e4a80a3959b27c 8

Its around 2mm deep, fibreglass applied directly to metal (therefore had lifted and surface rust covered the unprotected metal), then filler, primer and paint. I took the flap disc and started grinding front to take till I get metal-primer-paint with no filler:
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10386831_10154644450870214_2151141855637850715_n.j pg?oh=82794b38b036203b3fa9abb444382485&oe=54B29066

I knew it had been skimmed with filler but the unprimed metal meant the roof is doomed really - I can pretty much guarantee the other fibreglassed areas have lifted and contain surface rust.

I have a plan to fix it, using another Nova roof skin isn't going to be ideal as there is too much front to back curve even on a hatch model; but I think the solution might lay in replacing the entire roof skin with one from a Carlton estate. This is something I will look at once I am all healed up.

This is the last big update now for at least over 1 month until I am healed. The Nova will be pulled out tomorrow so I will get a nice shot of it outside.

[eggy]

Apologies for the random question , but whst make and name are your wheels as for the life of me I cant remember

Cheers

James

[nova_niek]

Apologies for the random question , but whst make and name are your wheels as for the life of me I cant remember

Cheers

James

Alloys look like this...

http://i537.photobucket.com/albums/ff333/nova_niek/nova/various/ATSvelgen.jpg~original4x ATS Alufelge KBA 42615 6x14 ET38 4x100 Opel VW

*** edit ***
No. Not quite. Sorry mate.

[Johnny A]

They are off a limited edition Corolla mate, so no name but they were made by MIM.

Last update for a while:
Today I moved the estate outside:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10603530_10154649591290214_7302335264623619577_n.j pg?oh=5a4a4003b0d62b7793926352ed82508a&oe=54C0CA90&__gda__=1422005231_5fcfe59a80207ad82dcaaab9e77e94d 1

Here are some pictures outside:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10686993_10154649592385214_5469731908799055334_n.j pg?oh=ef7ae1cbc29c7e6f349d64ca33d17a75&oe=54AE9D77&__gda__=1422053217_b822aa5464d3f3de8d37c86cdce95b8 e
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10649621_10154649593340214_2288934272009284833_n.j pg?oh=d7a22e7800827a42d49765c31f268661&oe=54C4BA2A&__gda__=1425061436_b99325304903e78c9a7c92b17ed4676 3
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10702060_10154649593700214_8703023344207427096_n.j pg?oh=0ee0bb62d8c7b31e6efd0fe1840954e8&oe=54BC4D00&__gda__=1421467316_c704374aad9a88c67db59f355dfe8f8 a
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/1920205_10154649594365214_6596636934086094294_n.jp g?oh=c02e0d7d045e05e0c19baf6161757d0e&oe=54F31F3F&__gda__=1425058645_ece5f303f4771d8c81fb6a081ec7af4 d
https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10646775_10154649595360214_2377131111024075761_n.j pg?oh=7c7281abf3b7238777387a196cb2f82c&oe=54F59D8C

Saying I am chuffed with the general look is an understatement, everything is looking good!!

Here it is in its new bay:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/65090_10154649595310214_4972602391789946258_n.jpg? oh=558a7da16fd0ed8b3d23036a060730f8&oe=54B0C4DA&__gda__=1420460775_39a1b49d1444f4cca6252abb4e78ad7 8

[Andy]

the gargantuan windows look sh1te,they would look far better split imo.
What a mess that roof is.

[scott.parker]

the gargantuan windows look sh1te,they would look far better split imo.
What a mess that roof is.

Bit harsh lol but yeah, not really looked at them in ages, I reckon if it's possible extended width of the B pillar (ecstatically not structurally) , so just a skin on outside some how? That could make it look more balanced?

[L14MNP]

My move you say?
Waxoil is complete muck. You may as well have sprayed salt water into your box sections

Most people want to protect their cars, these days. Not many like to make it so easy for me.
I might start nibbling on it, tonight..

[L14MNP]

Bit harsh lol but yeah, not really looked at them in ages, I reckon if it's possible extended width of the B pillar (ecstatically not structurally) , so just a skin on outside some how? That could make it look more balanced?

Needs B pillar moving back and door lengthening, to get it proportionally correct.

Haway Jonny, bust out the Upol!

[Johnny A]

the gargantuan windows look sh1te,they would look far better split imo.
What a mess that roof is.

Thank god I own it and not you then lol. I love the whole look of the car, just needs finishing off now.

Agree about the roof though, but I can fix it... just more bloody work though!

[Andy]

Thety need splitting imo to take away the conservatory showroom on wheels look lol

[Andy]

im guessing the roof "skin" is just that? it will peel off?
What sort of fit is the carlton compared to this? wouldn't a astra van be nearer?

[Johnny A]

A lot of put downs tonight, thanks for leaving the thread on a low guys

[L14MNP]

Soz, is that not the PNG MO? Want a RR style pictorial pennance thread as an apology?

http://www.adsm.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/vosa.jpg
http://www.backgroundsy.com/file/preview/magnet.jpg

For what it's worth, though I agree with The Rust Monster.

[Iain]

Looks kinda hearsey. Which is cool in my books.

Shame about the roof I'm sure you'll have it sorted. :)

[staggy_gsi]

I like it as it is, think it looks cool as fook!

and with the amount of time and effort being put into it I think people should maybe tone their criticisms down a bit. I know everyone has their own opinions etc....

[eggy]

I like it , think the back end has been done really well. As for the widows there not much different to a 3 dr escort estates

james

[Southie]

Still looks good to me, it's always been a car that's needed a tidying up with it being made by Burgo rather than a production line.... it's a 1 off after all.

The cars sitting really well though now.

Ignore limp he's always like that, just comes on here for banter rather than anything productive lol
Andy & Limp, PNG's answer to Dick & Dom lol

[burgo]

Are you ****ting me!!

You knew full well it was more than just a skim as you've seen the build thread, this picture alone shows the amount of filler in it
http://rs12.pbsrc.com/albums/a226/sclurgess/new%20loon/S7303063.jpg~320x480

Not only that when you came to view it I told you I had planned to change the roof skin because of the amount of filler in it also!

Plus it was built 5 years ago, was used and properly abused and just one cracking which again you knew about and now you whinge like a bitch like I've had you over some how or something. I was completely honest and haven't hidden anything.

Your not impressed!!! No no I'm not impressed, cheers "mate"

[nova_niek]

the gargantuan windows look sh1te,they would look far better split imo. What a mess that roof is.
Very subtle lol


They need splitting imo to take away the conservatory showroom on wheels look lol
lol lol lol

Never mind the friendly comments, I think it looks proper wicked, mean and evil. :thumb:

[Andy]

I just think an astra mk1estate style would suit it better

[L14MNP]

Sophie, 'your' wrong. ;) lol

[L14MNP]

Poor Johnny is gonna have another hernia, from turning all of these e-pages, once he catches up with this thread.
Unless burger catches him first and wraps him, head to toe in fibreglass matting and resin. lol

[Johnny A]

Are you ****ting me!!

You knew full well it was more than just a skim as you've seen the build thread, this picture alone shows the amount of filler in it
http://rs12.pbsrc.com/albums/a226/sclurgess/new%20loon/S7303063.jpg~320x480

Not only that when you came to view it I told you I had planned to change the roof skin because of the amount of filler in it also!

Plus it was built 5 years ago, was used and properly abused and just one cracking which again you knew about and now you whinge like a bitch like I've had you over some how or something. I was completely honest and haven't hidden anything.

Your not impressed!!! No no I'm not impressed, cheers "mate"

Actually I never looked at the build thread that hard, I found a picture similar to above and thought you had to skim it a lot due to the panel warping etc.. from the welding. I remember you telling me about wanting to replace the roof skin but I thought it was because you weren't happy with it (due to the warping of the panel) - a full fibreglass skin was mentioned as a replacement. I wouldn't be too fussed about the amount of fibreglass where the skins meet if it has been primed prior to the FG so it hadn't lifted up and caused the exterior cracking and surface rust.

Not worry I will replace the entire thing with steel, I still have my Carlton estate so was able to compare skin curves etc... and they match up pretty well but finding a suitable breaker might take some time.

[paddy235]

This finished yet?