rear wheel bearings

[Rage]

is there anyway of using sealed wheel bearings instead of the unsealed tapered ones i'm on my second set of bearings in about 3 months and i've got the familiar bearing rumble again. i just can't seem to get them right so they last any decent amount of time so i'm thinking of maybe using a sealed bearing unit from a different model. has anyone tried this?

[phunkynova]

I would suspect that you have a problem with 1 of 3 thing's or maybe 2 or all 3.

1 worn or damaged stub axels

2 contaminants in your bearing grease

3 setting the free pay on you bearings

[mowgli]

agreed

you do have to get the whole rear brake assembly spotlessly clean before assembling it.

they should last 50k easily. even the cheap ones..

you would struggle to find sealed bearings that would fit & last as long, as the taper is the best design for the nova hub.

[Rage]

right ok i'll have to get some new bearings again and try again think i'll get some new stub axles at the same time. would the drum have anything to do with killing the bearings so early?

[mowgli]

corsa b ones are the same fit, and thus cheap.

[brainsnova]

When tightening up the nut bolt the wheel on as it's easier to feel the play

[marc69]

Although haynes says they should be tightened till there is no play and then moved back a notch or two, I always have them set just at the point where there is no play (as said above, the wheel needs t be on), and checked a few weeks later.

[Rage]

off the top of my head i can't remember what torque setting i used but i know it was a high reading then slacken off then retighten to a low reading think i'm going to have to scrap the torque wrench and go back to feeling it to the right tightness

[brainsnova]

I've never used a torque wrench on the hub nuts it's all about feel

[marc69]

I've never torqued them, it is how they feel and have never had one I've replaced play up yet, I've owned the swing for over ten years and done about 70K and never replaced them.
The two track cars also so far have had no bother which is good considering the cornering, although they get checked for any slackness before each track day.

[raf24]

I'm unsure of how tight they should be as well so when it gets tightened and you back it off again....should you be able to move the nut slightly once the split pin is in?

[Riggy]

You should just be able to move the washer behind the nut with a flat head and some force, if it moves to easy then needs nipping up a tad more :)