14NV Auto choke

[stewart_2004]

Hey all,

Does anyone have any info on setting up the auto choke on a 14NV Engine. I have removed the cover which has the two screws and contains the coiled spring.

Does the spring need to be wound clockwise or anti clock wise to set the idle. The problem I am having is the car wont idle and the auto choke vale it wide open from cold.

Any info on how this thing works or how It can be tested ? I wanted to get my car MOTd but as it wont idle that wont happen.

[jimbob-mcgrew]

as the engine coolant warms up, it heats the coiled spring, which opens out and applies pressure on the pin that controls the choke. when you re-fit the spring housing, the pin should be slotted into the hole in the spring. you can adjust its position by rotating the housing clockwise or anti-clockwise. if you adjust it whilst its running, with a cold engine, youll see the flap in the carb move. set it to where you want it, but keep an eye on it during its warm up process, as if you over-adjust it, it wont flick off fully when its warm. I'd let the engine get upto temp and adjust it to the point that the flap is 99% open, so your getting a good medium between cold and hot

[stewart_2004]

Hi mate thanks for your reply. So when i refit the housing with the spring do i wind tension on first then attach it or do I just put it on then adjust it by moving housing ?

[jimbob-mcgrew]

yeah, don't touch the spring, or you might mess with its turning ability.
just make sure the choke pins located inside the spring slot when you re-fit it.
leave the screws loose enough so the housing is still movable.

its been a little while since ive played with one, but (looking at it from drivers wing side) ive got a feeling turning it clockwise turns the choke to the on position (closed flap), and anti-clockwise turns it off (open flap).

make the adjustments with the airbox off, and youll be able to see the choke flap move with your adjustment.

these carbs have a habbit of getting gunked up inside too, which makes them run cack. so probably worth buying a can of carb cleaner (one with a long spray nozzle) and without taking the carb apart, spray down all the pipes that the vacuum hoses attach to, and down the tops of the jets (small and bronze in colour located at the topside of the carb), and anywhere else you can get access too.

once you've got it running acceptable enough, pull one of the sparkplugs out to check its colour. a bleached white colour means its running over-lean, and a black sooty colour means its running over-rich... you might have to adjust the mixture screw half a turn at a time until the plug colour looks normal.

hope that helps :thumb:

[stewart_2004]

Hey mate thanks for reply. I messed about with it today at work. I removed the air box and removed the cap with spring it I moved the white lug that moves carb flap just so it was open then I fitted cap back on making sure spring located in ok. The spring did look stretched I will post a pic up of it later. I left screws loose but when I moved the cap the flap failed to move.

I fired engine up and it would idle ok but when I pressed accelerator pedal slightly it cut out as carb flap opened up fully.

[Novasport]

Bin it and look for a manual choke conversion

[conza123]

Bin it and look for a manual choke conversion

Or weber carb conversion ;)

[stewart_2004]

Yeah if I could find a manual conversion but hard to come by

[kent14sr]

A Pierburg setup correctly is far better than a 32/34 in my opinion.

As Rich said, just get a manual choke conversion kit if need be. Sadly 2E3 auto chokes rarely work correctly, and when they do - it doesn't always last for long!

[stewart_2004]

Are the conversion kits still available ? If so where can I get one from

[marc69]

These can be set up but you have tpo be very patient. What i did with mine was to set it cold so it held the choke shut. This is the spring thing inside the auto choke.

Once it is set, then warm the car up to make aure the choke opens once the temp gauge is out of the blue.

If this all works, then the next steps will be adjusting the choke on the three screws, just slack enough to move by hand, with experimental running making sure it doesn't come off to early or too late. there is also an idle mixture adjustment screw to set only when it has been run and is fully hot, and also a fast idle screw for the fast idle.

[jimbob-mcgrew]

Hey mate thanks for reply. I messed about with it today at work. I removed the air box and removed the cap with spring it I moved the white lug that moves carb flap just so it was open then I fitted cap back on making sure spring located in ok. The spring did look stretched I will post a pic up of it later. I left screws loose but when I moved the cap the flap failed to move.

I fired engine up and it would idle ok but when I pressed accelerator pedal slightly it cut out as carb flap opened up fully.

the carb flap opened when you pushed the throttle because it has a second vacuum that controls the 'choke pull down' to assist running thru the rev range, its normal to do this, and pulls the flap open gradually as rpm rises, but shouldn't cut the car out.

It sounds like you might need to set the choke spring more 'on'.
you might need to raise the idle speed a tad too, to cope for the drop in rpm.

[mowgli]

you could try someone like gower & lee. they specialise in carb parts, and could probably supply a manual choke kit

[stewart_2004]

I tried again to set up the choke but still no joy. It starts off closed then I press the accelerator pedal down and carb flap opens slightly. Start it up and it idles ok, if I give it a little rev it's fine but then flap starts to open until it cuts out. Just got another one off eBay to have a play with.

[kent14sr]

Just removed the auto choke unit on mine and am going to make up a manual conversion for it in due course.

However, it runs better once warmed up without it fitted. You have to keep the revs up when its cold, but to be honest that's not too much of a hardship because it was sticking before and running/idling awfully once warmed up.

I looked into buying a new unit years ago, but they were NLS from memory - the thermo-springs are 20 years old now, so few will have the strengths they did when new now.

[stewart_2004]

Ive been looking for a manual conversion but they are well over 60 pound.

[kent14sr]

Ive been looking for a manual conversion but they are well over 60 pound.

I am going to make my own nearer winter when its needed!

[stewart_2004]

I've seen a kit on eBay for a 1.3 nova will this work on my 14nv

[kent14sr]

Yes if it is for a Pierburg carb, although I think the ones on ebay are for a Varijet - so if so it wouldnt work

[stewart_2004]

I received the carb from ebay today. fitted it up and it runs much better looks like auto choke is working better than my old one. I need to check my timing now is there any guides to to this with timing light ?

[marc69]

yeah, at hot temperature, idling approx 900rpm, the marker on the crank should sit at the pointer using a srobe gun.