2e3 giving hesitation on take off

[marc69]

When I bought my SR it had running issues, one was the carb had blocked jets and knackered vacuums etc.

I fitted another 2e3 from a scrapyard (was a few years ago when they still turned up). It has worked fine ever since although it is the one with the funny yellow box thing.

Anyway, using the car as the everday runner just now I decided to repair and put the original carb back on the car.

With some perseverance it seems to work alright except when pulling away at low revs with little throttle in 1st or 2nd gear, it almost stalls.

I have checked the part load enrichment valve seals which seem fine and the accelerator pump is throwing fuel when used but I doubt it would operate with light throttle anyway.

Any ideas?

[meritlover]

it sounds like a jet or emulsion tube is choked still or a transient/transition port which operates at part throttle. it may just need set up if the idle mixture adjustment screws have been out for cleaning.

did the carb come from the same size engine as its on now? the jets might be different sizes.

do you have an airline you can use to clear everything out with?

what is 'funny yellow box thing'?

[marc69]

The idle mixture screw has been removed and I have needed a bit of patince to get a smooth idle again. I will maybe experiment with a half turn richer one day then a half turn weaker the next etc but at the moment it is at a smooth idle at 9500 rpm.

It is the original Carb from this engine, it was only removed because the car used to give up at speed when under load, this was the fuel pumpe jet that was blocked. I am just being picky trying to get the original one back on the car.

I don't have an airline but have used a thin straw and blown through as much as I can to check air passes, real cowboy Joe stuff!

The yellow box, I can't rememebr what its called, it goes between the pump and carb inlet but also the carb has no return, the return also goes from this thing (kind of like a basin) I'll have a look in Haynes to see if it's in it.

What's a transient/transition port?

[meritlover]

ok i understand now re. swapping carbs.

a transient port is a small hole to aid the switchover between idle and main fueling circuits, the 2e3 may or may not have one.

sounds like the yellow box is to provide a steady flow with very little back pressure on the float needle when its closed. doesnt sound like it will be an issue.

you need an exhaust analyser to set up the carb properly, you can end up in a situation where it runs so rich the idle drops, so you wind up the idle speed. so you end up with a fast rich idle. or you lean it out til it runs high (and it feels like the engine is happy here) so you wind in the idle speed to keep it down, then you have a p1ss weak idle which causes hunting and stalling...much like you describe.
you may have to resort to trial and error to get it right, but i would go around all the ports again. even if you use a footpump with one of those cone adapters for blowing up space-hoppers and other trivial children's toys. to give it a blast.

as has been a common problem of late, check the strainer on the inlet barb (if it has one) to take that out the equation too.

xx

[marc69]

Thanks, I have checked the strainer, remarkably clean!

I understand what you mean by the idle mix, I have never had this trouble before with tuning carbs, usually I set the mixture so it's smooth, then adjust the speed to right then again fine tune the mixture incase it needs change with the speed adjustment, but I have never changed the mixture on a pierberg before. I don't have access to an analyser but I I'll have a go at trial and error.

I'm sure I have one of those red things for the foot pump, fun for the weekend (athough the redtops in for MOT on friday, terrified!!!)

The box is called a vapour separator in Haynes.

Thanks, I'll see how I get on. The car seems to have a few issues...I need more patience lol

[meritlover]

probably called a vapour separator as it lets the fuel circulate around instead of sitting gassing up in the hot engine bay. that's usually why cabs have returns, to prevent vapour lock.

when you get the other car MOTd, ask the tester very nicely if you can use his analyser to set up your carb.

try giving it a bit of choke and see what it does to the hesitation/stalling. if it helps, the carb is likely set lean or has blocked jets, if it gets worse...it is probably rich.

[marc69]

Thanks, I'll ask the MOTer as he seems ok and always impressed with Novas/minis (although still fails them).

It's an auto choke so no luck there for me.

[meritlover]

in which case, check the auto choke works properly! they often cause more troubles than they solve. clean it out best you can, then if you get it on the analyser you will have the opportunity to set it up correctly.
xx

[jimbob-mcgrew]

did you strip it and rebuild it with a new gasket kit ?

on the 2e's I set them up by plug colour.

check the accelerator pump setting on the farside of the throttle bar, as a little tweak on that can really over-richen the mixture and turn the plugs sooty black.

keep checking the plugs after each run, and make fine adjustments until they look like they should.

[GRUNT 16V]

Just bin it and replace with a weber 32-34 dmtl

[marc69]

No more headplunging as I take off, thankfully.

Basically pulled it all to bits and cleaned it again and then got it to idle with as weak a mixture as I could get it to. Seems to go ok apart from a the occasional little bit of run on whoch I assume means I have made the mixture just a little too lean......


Thanks so far for all the advice, feels like progress although the list of other issues is building up...brake cylinder/steering issue/water issue has reared it's head again which probably means new gaskets, it's like having a full time job sorting it all out
lol

[meritlover]

good work!

take the rest of the night off.

xx

[marc69]

After running with the carb for a few weeks overall it's driving fine. The fast idle when it's cold never goes above 1500rpm because if you screw it further up than this, it then lifts the warm normal idle up too. It is ok like this, save from having the screaming revs at the first few junctions when it's cold.

The only problem with the carb is that when it is very cold (most mornings here) for the first few minutes you can't go into 4th gear at only 30mph because it kangaroos, you have to stay in 3rd gear. After the first few minutes of driving then it is fine. I have tried shifting the autochoke clockwise and anti clock wise but it still does the same thing.

I think as otherwise it drives fine and this is minor, I'll live with it!

Thanks for all advice and help.