doh

[Aragorn]

well i decided i'd start building me new engine yestarday after i finally got enough parts to start

so i borrow a nice torque wrench of a mate and set about putting everything together

after a few early mishaps (i had to try and get the dowels that hold the cam box in place out of the old head) everything seemed to be going to plan

i hand tightened all the head bolts with a ratchet and once the head and cambox were flat i got the torque wrench out...

then it all fucked up

i didnt realise the torque wrench only clicked when it reached the point set on it - i had thaught it wouldnt let me get the bolts any tighter

so im there turning and turning and turning...

then CLICK - at first i think yey ive finally reached the torque and move on to the next one.... CRACK... this time i think WTF and take a closer look...

http://www.kevingalloway.demon.co.uk/cam.jpg

so on my first ever attempt at assembling an engine ive managed to fuck a cam box, full set of head bolts and the head gasket :oops:

just need to try again tomorrow with my spare cam box :(

[Fester]

shit happens :( theres no sirens on the wrench or anything just the click, which is probably useless advice right now

[Stuart]

quick lesson.


When the torque wrench clicks STOP pushing

[_JH_]

:lol:

[CP]

You better NOT have fecked that head you naughty boy! :roll:

typical northerner- strong int arm: thick int heed :lol:

Why dont you get a 3/4 inch drive T bar with a 6 foot length of bar on it and make you sure you get the fecker done up tight next time :lol: ROTFLMAO.

Sorry but that was ultra dumb and wins you the NL numbnuts of the year award. And you of all peeps Aragorn :!:

[rgv_stu]

lol
that is quite amusing. i hope you had the cam fitted ,else you would have had fun fitting it afterwards

[nova dosed]

i had same prob b4 me mate passed me the torque wrench after he changed the setting on it to 9olb and guess what i snapped a head bolt fookin hurt to i shot across ebg lol oh well easy to get out no harm dun.

[Ste_Nova]

:lol:

[Ben (lurk75)]

Whoops :o

[Aragorn]

:oops:

well theres a first for everything

took it all apart and put cam into a new box so its ready to go back together

just waiting on me mate bringing the torque bar back round so i can have another go :oops:

just hope the fucker starts

the fact that the timing marks are almost non-existant are kinda concerning:

http://www.novaload.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=79259

[mowgli]

for gods sake buy new head bolts and check that where the threads start on the head, you haven't pulled the head surface up at all. if you have, use a very fine file to flatten then out...

if you don't get the timing right, as long as you have still got hyd. lifters it will survive.

[Aragorn]

yer got new bolts and new head gasket to be safe

think ive worked out the timing issues

seems it uses a dot on the crank pulley and a notch in the plastic cover to line it up

the head dont have threads on it? so dunno what your on about there

[techie]

Yeah ur timing marks for the cambelt are the notch on the back of the cover for the cam which lines up with the mark on the cam pulley. And a triangular mark on the crank gear which goes straight down to line up with the mark on the oil pump.

[Aragorn]

now i feel stupid

just started again tonight

tigtening away

started thinking WTF it was clicking before now the last time

so i stop and decide to use it on another bolt to see

the fucking bar was in reverse mode

so now ive fucked another set of bolts and another gasket :oops:

fucking pissed off now :evil:

[Mark]

Whoops :o

[rgv_stu]

why start at such a highh setting ??
i start at about 10ft/lb and work my way up
saves making stupid mistakes

[dikharvey]

I havent laughed out loud like this for so long.

Thanks!

Keep us posted for the next attempt!

[Dare-devil]

:roll: lmao :P

[SKoob]

why not just buy a haynes manual? I also hope your using a protracter to tightne them down to the correct degrees. I managed to snap a stud of a rocker extracter in my cam box :oops:

[Euan]

do you have to tighten to the degrees like it says in the haynes or can you just tighten to the torque settings.

just seems very inaccurate??

[rgv_stu]

angle tightening is more accurate than using a torque wrench.
although i have used just a torque wrench until i though it was tight enuf without any problems.

[CP]

FFS!

Have ago like this:

1. LIGHTLY lube the head bolt threads with a SMALL amount of copper grease/oil.
2. If they are not already oiled/greased put some copper grease/oil round the underside of the head bolt heads and both sides of their washers.
3. Make sure that no piston is at TDC to avoid the chance of any of the valves fouling the piston crowns.
4. Thoroughly clean the bores making sure that even the smallest bit of coking debris has been removed. Best to use compressed air to blow the shit off the piston rings. Lightly oil the bores if been re-bored and new rings.
5. Make sure you have it right way up and put the head gasket in place onto the block over the locating water ferules.
6. Carefully place the head in place getting it to go on as gently & square as poss. Make sure all rockers/followers etc are inplace and lube all wearing surfaces
7. Clean all liquid gasket mating faces on the head and cam carrier and de-grease thoroughly. Apply a thin even coat of Blue Hylomar ( or similar) to both surfaces.
8. Carefully locate cam carrier housing and get all the head bolts/ washers in and finger tight.
9. Now what you must realise is that before you start torqueing down you need to get the cam housing and head down flat onto each other and the block. To do this you will need to tighten down against pressure from some of the valve springs as the cam pushes down onto them.
10. Get a small ratchet and carefully and gently go round all the bolts in turn using the correct tightening sequence as shown in haynes ( circular outward spiral pattern from the centre bolts) nipping each one up half a turn at a time. Keep going round and round until you can see that that cam housing is down flat onto the head. You will need very LITTLE pressure to do this and you'll find that some bolts go loose as you tighten others. The main thing is to take your time and gradually get it all located correctly before torqueing up. Its worth checking that the cam housing is in its old position relative to the head cos if it aint then you may find that the cam belt will run to one side or the other on the cam pulley cos it aint lined up square.
11. Get your torque wrench ( shud be a small one ) . Set it to 25 Newton metres or 18 foot pounds. This is feck all really.
12. Go round the bolts carefully as before gradually taking them down 1/4 turn at a time until the wrench starts to click on each bolt which tells you its reach the set torque. Finally carefully go round 1 last time making sure that it clicks on all to double check. DONT EVER PUSH PAST THE CLICK!!!!!
13. Final torqueing. Get yourself a long (2 foot) breaker bar for this cos it will require less effort to use and make it easier for you to turn accurately the required amount ( a tube on a std T bar will suffice) Haynes tells you to get or make a protractor. TBH I find its a bit of a balls ache way of doing it so I always use the new style VAUX head bolts which always have a lip showing around the base of their heads even with the special socket in place. I just mark the lip and then i can see clearly how much I'm turning them. The final tightening involves turning the bolts thru a total of 180 degrees in 3* 60 degree increments. 180 is basically half a turn of the bolt so i just divide into 3 and gauge it by eye which is just as good and much easier. You can easily see that they are all down evenly when done.
14. I might get slated for this next comment but i actually turn each little more to finish off with so that in effect they have been torqued down by 190 degrees in total at the end. I think on balance its better to be a little tighter than not quite tight enough but i could be wrong.

Hope this helps - just take yur time and do it gradually

[Aragorn]

yer third time lucky as they say

engine is in the car

just having some ball ache problems cos the 1400 and 1600 have different layouts for the water pipe work

the 1400 has the oil seperator on the back where the water pipes should run

managed to sor most of it now

just got a few little bits to do then i need to refit wiring loom and alternator etc and attempt to start the fucker

[Mark]

Well done!!

[rgv_stu]

adding to CP's post ..
if during the final tightening you feel it starting to go loose then thats the bolt stretching. theres no point tightening it any further imo otherwise you can risk snappage.


Its worth checking that the cam housing is in its old position relative to the head cos if it aint then you may find that the cam belt will run to one side or the other on the cam pulley cos it aint lined up square. how can this be out of alignment ?? as im sure the cam carrier uses locating dowels just like the head to block face does