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will699
12-04-13, 10:04 AM
anyone no where i can get a tool too take the dish type nut that hold the diff in? fed up of tapping it round with screw driver

meritlover
12-04-13, 10:32 AM
i first used a bit of flat plate. its not tight so you can turn it by only having to locate a couple of the posts. Tapping it off is pretty difficult as its the O-rings that offer the resistance and it kind of bounces. A constant unscrewing motion is best.

i would imagine a purpose bought would be expensive and i cant imagine you would be able to justify it unless you were taking a diff out all the time.

thegingerwhinger
12-04-13, 11:52 AM
They are listed on ebay under autograss or something. I bought one for changing diffs at different tracks. Im sure i paid £19 delivered for mine!

meritlover
12-04-13, 11:57 AM
They are listed on ebay under autograss or something. I bought one for changing diffs at different tracks. Im sure i paid £19 delivered for mine!
that's actually pretty reasonable to be fair.

jimbob-mcgrew
12-04-13, 02:00 PM
i think it was jack that mentioned in a guide that you can use a piece of angle iron to unscrew it, and screw it back in.

it has a monster thick thread on it tho, so it might take some time and patience to get the bugger out

faker
12-04-13, 08:54 PM
Anyone got advice on how to tighten them up. As in how tight or loose to have them.

mowgli
12-04-13, 08:56 PM
mark the start position, count how many turns you make????

there is a torque figure to load the diff bearings in the haynes book..


you could make something out of some thickish plate & an old socket with a slot cut into it

Novasport
12-04-13, 09:00 PM
That is something I have wondered as I don't think it tells you i the Haynes manual a torque setting or tightening procedure.

I was lucky and my dad was working for Aeroquip a while a go & he had one of the lads machine me one for free :) Should have had a few made. I asked for a couple of centre plates for my DCOE's and they made me about 30 of the things in stainless steel lol

garyc
12-04-13, 09:16 PM
If you get an old Haynes for the nova it lists the torque the diff needs to be tightened to. I have lent mine out so I cant tell you the number

mowgli
12-04-13, 09:18 PM
chapter 6, verse 16 gives you the lowdown. (i've always wondered why its got the same layout as the bible)

meritlover
12-04-13, 09:20 PM
here's a thought, can you not use an old spare/scrap nut. of the posts are the same width as the spaces then you might be able to use the spare 'nut' as a tool. Even if you have to file the edges a wee bit to give clearance. Its only aluminium after all.

mowgli
12-04-13, 09:22 PM
the main problem is getting the bearing preload right & its actually quite a small figure.

meritlover
12-04-13, 09:25 PM
the main problem with using a torque value is the amount of resistance given by the fine pitch of thread and the o-ring on the back. If i remember right, you can exceed the torque figure screwing it in before it even touches the bearing. if you grease it, the drag on the grease makes it even worse.

mowgli
12-04-13, 09:31 PM
when we do wheel bearings on our wagons & plant, we often get the instruction to tighten it up to FT, then back it off till the bearing has a small amount of play, then retorque it.

but to be honest, i've stuck different diffs in before & tightened them up by hand & not wrecked a diff.. obviously if you are fitting a super duper lsd type thing, it needs to be done right though.

meritlover
12-04-13, 09:39 PM
when we do wheel bearings on our wagons & plant, we often get the instruction to tighten it up to FT, then back it off till the bearing has a small amount of play, then retorque it.

but to be honest, i've stuck different diffs in before & tightened them up by hand & not wrecked a diff.. obviously if you are fitting a super duper lsd type thing, it needs to be done right though.

you're right, anyone with reasonable appreciation about what they're doing wont destroy them. its exactly the same as doing a rear wheel bearing.

it doesnt make much difference whether its a std diff or a fancy one, its the bearings that take the hit, but i would like to avoid anything that would put my expensive diff at risk.

jimbob-mcgrew
13-04-13, 01:13 AM
you could make something out of some thickish plate & an old socket with a slot cut into it

^ genius mo ! i'll remember that

faker
14-04-13, 09:42 PM
Cheers folks. When I fitted the tran-x diff in the casing I tightened the thing until the diff just started to get pinched by the bearings, offering a bit of resistance, then backed it of a fraction. Hope it's ok?!!

meritlover
14-04-13, 10:00 PM
should be, time will tell.......

mowgli
14-04-13, 10:01 PM
faker, couldn't trans-x help with a method?

Andy
14-04-13, 10:04 PM
A half inch socket with 2 plates of metal welded into a X is what we used to use at the gearbox place i worked at.The boss made it.