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View Full Version : Gearbox / tie rod clearance part II. Please have your say



SILVERSTRIPE
08-04-13, 04:37 PM
I posted a thread last week regarding an issue with clearance between my f20 gearbox and tie rod. The overall response was to lower the front mounting point of the tie rod at the cross-member.

I havn't got round to doing that yet or found suitable mountings, so I thought I would see what the clearance was like if I mounted the tie rod to the under side of the TCA.

http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee512/silverstripe180/IMGP0100.jpg

I appreciate that there is an obvious week point now between the tie rod and the ball joint, but I thought that if I packed this with alloy or strengthened the underside of the TCA it may be OK.

It is a track car however and may not withstand the heavy braking. The result though has given me 1 inch of clearance from the gearbox

http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee512/silverstripe180/IMGP0098.jpg

I'm interested in your thoughts - positive or negative - and particulary interested if anyone has run with this set up

Cheers Peter

meritlover
08-04-13, 04:43 PM
This will change your caster as the tie rod is essentially shorter than it originally was. You may have to compensate for this by adjusting the top mount, although in this case it might work in your favour.

conad
08-04-13, 04:44 PM
i peronally dont see a problem as long as you weld a plate to the underside of the arm, effectivly turning it into box section.

meritlover
08-04-13, 04:51 PM
Your bolt is now taking most of the lateral loads now as apposed to the tie rod being tightly clamped to the lower B-J. They may bend or break.

As you have said, if you box it up Corsa-B style and incorporate a wider spacer it will be much better.

conad
08-04-13, 04:58 PM
would it be possible to move the ball joint to the top of the arm? or am i being silly? lol

meritlover
08-04-13, 05:03 PM
would it be possible to move the ball joint to the top of the arm? or am i being silly? lol

it's possible, but would that not be using exactly the same clamping forces and surfaces?

conad
08-04-13, 05:12 PM
there would be no need for spacers then.... something like:-

bolt head
ball joint
lower arm
open void in newly created 'box'
new wwelded on plate
tie rod
nut

therealnovaboy
08-04-13, 05:14 PM
you still want spacers. itll help give the box strength.

Mazz
08-04-13, 05:15 PM
Is the engine sitting level? Its not slopping down on the g/b side?

conad
08-04-13, 05:17 PM
you still want spacers. itll help give the box strength.

true... could be incorporated when welding the plate on

SILVERSTRIPE
08-04-13, 05:28 PM
I'm surprised how positive everyone is. thanks for the replies. it doesn't seem to have altered the castor, but it would only be a positive move if it does. The angle of the tie rod has changed though. Not sure how this will affect handling. I might just strengthen it all up and give it a go

mowgli
08-04-13, 06:17 PM
as you are trial fitting it, i'd recommend to lower the front mount before doing anything drastic

as for beefing up the bottom arm. it seems to be a good idea with the xe, but definitely put spacers in

whitenovasaloon
08-04-13, 06:20 PM
Deffo needs a plate on the bottom with spacers between the two sides of the 'box'. I think this will increase the tendancy for the front end to drop under braking, (opposite of anti-dive) probably not what your looking for on a track car

meritlover
08-04-13, 06:42 PM
there would be no need for spacers then.... something like:-

bolt head
ball joint
lower arm
open void in newly created 'box'
new wwelded on plate
tie rod
nut

:eek:

so what stops the 0.8mm walled 'box' from crushing?!

conad
08-04-13, 07:03 PM
:eek:

so what stops the 0.8mm walled 'box' from crushing?!

see below :thumb:


true... could be incorporated when welding the plate on