Xe help please at the end of my tether!!!!!!

[Vausey]

Right the problem is that the c20xe runs like a pile of ****!(in short)

Its just spluttering (when u give a really little throttle or a foot full) asif there is an air leak/ fueling issue.... But i cant see where the problem is...

I need this car for te time being for my new job but its lettig me down. And costing me money

Ive checked tht theres enough fuel, could it be fuel pressure? I have a ****ty fpr and its saying "2bar" give half a bar some times.

Im quite mechanically minded but this is just beating me!!!!

Please help me. Thanks.

Also if i have made spellig mistakes sorry cba its half 8 av been in garden and smashed a few bits up cos of this shed!

[Vausey]

I have also flashed for any codes nothing there....

[meritlover]

Now that you've finnished ranting. Perhaps you could describe the fault in more detail and list exactly what you have checked/changed.


Ive checked tht theres enough fuel, could it be fuel pressure? I have a ****ty fpr and its saying "2bar" give half a bar some times.


what times? at idle? under load? fluctuates at steady load/RPM?

fuel pressure will never be constant because its relative to MAP. ie there will always be a constant DP between the fuel rail and manifold to keep the flow constant. if you think the FPR is "*****y" then change remove doubt and fit a standard one.

what have you done to rule out an ignition fault?

codes are nearly useless 90% of the time, you need a fault reader that shows live values and quite often you need one to make sense of the codes that are flashed up.

xxx

[scott.parker]

There is absolutely loads of things this could be, but if have not checked yet, make sure the rubber doughnut that goes from afm to sfi/power cap has not split in behind the rubber folds, also check your inlet idle butterfly is not stuck/sticking etc..

[Vausey]

Hi sorry was early rushing for a lift to work! And on my phone ( enought of the exscusses anyway)

By what times im not sure what you mean? But it was this morning. And it does this splutterig no load and load yet if i put car on stands and 2 gear up its fine just runs as you would xspect.

What i have changed: dizzy cap. Ad took oil catch tank off. Added £10 more fuel ad says its at 1/4 tank.
Ive done crank sensor and oil/ filter and spark plugs.

And scot sorry to be thik! But whats afm and thanks ill chek idle tommor but im sure i checked that a few months back.

Also orded a cts as ive heared theycan be a problem for boging down/spluttering like a fart.

Anything else just ask please or if ive missed anything on a 3" screen atm

[Vausey]

The fuel pump is also the mpi one out of a astra as reccomended by some one of here so it shouldnt be that.

[Spudly]

Have you tried fitting new leads aswell, i had misfire/spluttering issues with mine and it was down to plugs and leads, you want ngk3330's in there with the single electrodes btw!

[scott.parker]

Air flow meter, where your induction air goes through the electronic air flow meter, just after it you have a round rubber doughnut joint that attaches to the sfi box or power cap, they are have deep folds in the them, and are prone to getting cracks in between and under the folds, you won't be able to see any without taking it off, if it's split that will leak your intake air before it can get a to your engine inlet, I had it once and the car was running like crap and it was intermittent, and made the car loose power on and off etc..

[Vausey]

i am going to change the plugs there the bosh 4 point ones are were a pure sutty black dry color any advice? thanks rob

[Andy]

Now that you've finnished ranting. Perhaps you could describe the fault in more detail and list exactly what you have checked/changed.



what times? at idle? under load? fluctuates at steady load/RPM?

fuel pressure will never be constant because its relative to MAP. ie there will always be a constant DP between the fuel rail and manifold to keep the flow constant. if you think the FPR is "*****y" then change remove doubt and fit a standard one.

what have you done to rule out an ignition fault?

codes are nearly useless 90% of the time, you need a fault reader that shows live values and quite often you need one to make sense of the codes that are flashed up.

xxx
This,without an oscilloscope or good quality code reader with live data you are urinating into a hurricane im afraid.
And throwing new sensors at it is an utterly false economy.

[Vausey]

well i went to cheapiest optoin ans also the c20xe i have doesnt have a port for a code reader its earth brown/yel wire job for me and no codes flashed

[Benn]

Get a can of carb cleaner, spray it over the inlet, if the idel goes up, then you have a air leak.
Leads on the right way?

[Nova_Tek]

Once you have checked all the usual areas like ignition working fine, coil ok, plugs, leads dizzy etc, throttle body clean, icv clean, hoses pipes good then try the fuel pump relay.

Dad's Cav had a issue, poor mpg, poor hesitant performance, hunting for revs, stuttery, idle was sh*t, eml light on and off, no fault codes coming up etc. In the end a £7.50 new fuel relay transformed everything. Runs perfect now.

Don't get too cheesed off it's bound to be something you've overlooked.

[jimbob-mcgrew]

sooty black plugs rules out an airleak in theory. its probably over fueling

[Vausey]

does any one have a good diagram of where all the air pipes goto and breather pipes as i have 1 blanked off the big one from rocker cover going into the atmosphere and the big one on throttle body blanked up too and also to the back right of the engine there is a lite black boxx with 2 nozzles very small but these have nothing going onto them or blanking them (think its tank vent valve or somthing.)

will try for air leeks thanks people need all help i can get

[meritlover]

has it ever ran properly or has it just started doing this?

[Nobby]

If i was you i would go back to basics, check that you have a good spark and fuel at the rail,have you changed or got a fuel filter? I would then recheck for flash codes as if you have a fault with a sensor etc it should log a code. After that if it does it when cold have you tried to run it with the CTS unplugged? These engines are fairly basic really did you do the conversion is all the wiring tight and correct etc? I could go on all day if its fine when cold id say that it was more electrical and braking down under heat. Have you checked the timing? ie as its been cold and if your antifreeze upto scratch water pump could be stiff and helped timing to jump? more than likely an extremely long shot but you never know lol

[Spudly]

i am going to change the plugs there the bosh 4 point ones are were a pure sutty black dry color any advice? thanks rob




Bin these and fit single electrode ngk's trust me i was skeptical when i was told, but your problem will probably lie with these, im guessing theyre 'super fours' then, apparently those, and gm twin electrode plugs are ****e for xe's, bang some new plugs in there!