View Full Version : more redtop questions
I'll have loads of questions as I get to know the car so thought I'd just start an ongoing thread!
I have read when people sell them they always say, no knocks or rattles on starting up. Mine doesn't either but I notice that most people's cars (generic cars) give a rattle or so on the first few revalations when they start them on cold mornings.
What problem is this referring too on Redtops? and is it severe rattling or knocking?
meritlover
28-01-13, 09:45 PM
is that not just a general term for selling a 20 year old engine thats been round the block a few times?
im sure it refers to general cam/tappet condition, piston slap, and bearing wear.
is that not just a general term for selling a 20 year old engine thats been round the block a few times?
im sure it refers to general cam/tappet condition, piston slap, and bearing wear.
So it means quite a bit of noise then lol
"No smoke or rattle" means its fooked. None of the 2.0xes I've had over the years tapped from cold.
meritlover
28-01-13, 09:53 PM
you know the difference between a rough engine and one that sounds good. Hard to quantify i guess, but one of these things you just know when you hear it.
staggy_gsi
28-01-13, 09:54 PM
The hydraulic lifters (tappets) on XE's are known to wear out which causes them to tap a little when cold. Or if they get really bad they can be noisy all the time
meritlover
28-01-13, 09:54 PM
"No smoke or rattle" means its fooked. ....
O_o damn! ive had some really knackered engines over the years then.
meritlover
28-01-13, 09:56 PM
The hydraulic lifters (tappets) on XE's are known to wear out which causes them to tap a little when cold. Or if they get really bad they can be noisy all the time
this should also be taken as neglected services, poor oil choice or hard thrashing.
this should also be taken as neglected services, poor oil choice or hard thrashing.
well it's about to get some hard thrashing!
O_o damn! ive had some really knackered engines over the years then.
Referring specifically to the 20xe
Alot of xe's tap from cold due to dirty lifters, for the lack of oil changes.
I fixed a friends, it tapped it nuts off from cold for about 10mins. I stripped all the lifter down and cleaned them out. Did a oil change. After that it didn't tap again.
I change oil at 2.5 to 3k miles.
Two questions this time
1.roughly how much heavier is the 2.0xe and f20 gearbox compard to a small block engine and box?
2. How difficult is it to change the cambelt on these? How many miles should it be between changes and if the car has only done a few thousand mles in the last three years, does the belt still need to be changed due to age? (the cover etc are all on complete)?
Well that's more like three questions...oops
1. Quite a bit.
2. A bit tricky due to space, but can still be easily done. But do it out of the car for easy. For the price of a belt i'd fit one. Rubber does perish. You get around 40k/4 ish years use.
I've just purchased an XE Nova MkII and took it straight to the weigh bridge...920kg with 1/4 tank of fuel. Find out how much a standard MkII weighs (prob 850ish) and there's your answer to no.1 :d
1. Quite a bit.
2. A bit tricky due to space, but can still be easily done. But do it out of the car for easy. For the price of a belt i'd fit one. Rubber does perish. You get around 40k/4 ish years use.
Hopefully I won't be removing the engine, so I'll have to struggle with the lack of space. I have only replaced a cambelt once on my 1.4 8v. Is it basically the same procedure?
The belts are straight forward to do.
When rebuilding my XE i put in my old Corsa i used some 2000 grade wet & dry on the side of the lifters to clean the years of ****e off and then a polish with autosol, after that i left them soak in a tub oil for a few days while the head was off being skimmed.
Then when it was in, i filled the engine oil with the cam cover off so the oil was evenly spread, then before my 1st startup i disconnected the dizzy and turned it over a few times to build up oil pressure, 1st startup was silent and was perfect every time.
Theres plenty guides around the net for doing the belts, easier to explain with photos
Hopefully I won't be removing the engine, so I'll have to struggle with the lack of space. I have only replaced a cambelt once on my 1.4 8v. Is it basically the same procedure?
Get a allen key and cut it down, helps to get in to the bolts holding the pulleys.
Remember when you refit lifters, do it with them nice and oily..
What pulleys do I need to remove?
I have had a look for a guide for changing the cambelt but not found a good one, is there one here I have missed or shopuld I just get a a haynes manual for a 1990 astra?
I removed the cover today just to see how it looks,
http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af5/69marc/IMAG0173_zpsd07c1f0d.jpg
Is that not the late engine?
Replace belt, rollers, tensioner. Not seen a guide, but it isn't to hard.
Is that not the late engine?
Replace belt, rollers, tensioner. Not seen a guide, but it isn't to hard.
I have no idea what year etc the engine is from-I know nothing about these engines so far.
From the history folder the belt/tensioner/cover seal etc and rollers were changed late 2007 which was 3 thousand miles ago. The belt still has all the white writing on it. Does the rubber perish easily with age?
Looks like square pulleys and an extra roller... Is it Dispac?
Tbh i'd replace it just incase, then forget about it for 3/4 years...
Does the rubber perish easily with age?
Almost definitely, more importantly though for what it'll cost the valves will definitely perish if it lets go because you didn't question it.
meritlover
13-02-13, 09:48 PM
Chances are it will be fine for a good while yet..but thats a chance or risk (if you will) that you must weigh up in your own conscience, tossing and turning in your bed and in your dreams...pondering in your mind whilst at work or on the can at a designated break time....Change it for peace of mind. Start with a fresh baseline so you can be certain how long and how much work that belt's done. The belt will soon look a very simple and cheap task when you're being towed back to the pits at Knockhill with bits of valve punched through your bonnet whilst wondering how the hell your going to get it home....
look after your belt and it will look after you
xxx
Chances are it will be fine for a good while yet..but thats a chance or risk (if you will) that you must weigh up in your own conscience, tossing and turning in your bed and in your dreams...pondering in your mind whilst at work or on the can at a designated break time....Change it for peace of mind. Start with a fresh baseline so you can be certain how long and how much work that belt's done. The belt will soon look a very simple and cheap task when you're being towed back to the pits at Knockhill with bits of valve punched through your bonnet whilst wondering how the hell your going to get it home....
look after your belt and it will look after you
xxx
You should get a job in marraige counselling, no, scrap that idea, you should be a diplomat, world peace!!!
But yes seriously, I do value the advice from everyone and get the point.
Several questions if anyone has the patience.
1. If the rollers were replaced 2K ago do they need replacing with age (5 years) along with the belt or is it purely just the belt?
2. To release the tension on the belt, I assume it's not a water pump moving thing. Is it a tensioner the same as what haynes describes for the injection Nova engines?
Thanks
1. Tbh if you're in there replace them all. Save worry and messing about later.
2. Yeah the tensioner is on the left is moveable. Use an extension bar to move it in and out..
Several questions if anyone has the patience.
1. If the rollers were replaced 2K ago do they need replacing with age (5 years) along with the belt or is it purely just the belt?
2. To release the tension on the belt, I assume it's not a water pump moving thing. Is it a tensioner the same as what haynes describes for the injection Nova engines?
Thanks
Imagine giving it some at 6000+ RPM (in 2nd, 60mph of course) along a nice windy country road.
Now imagine doing that knowing you didn't replace the idlers and tensioner on the cambelt. lol
More Questions........
The coil pack and ignition module, are these on other vauxhall models that are likely to be in a scrap yard?
http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af5/69marc/IMAG0183_zps36de9329.jpg
http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af5/69marc/IMAG0184_zpsba016ca5.jpg
Just so I can have spare ones in stock.....just in case
No, both only found on xe iirc.
OK, I have a belt and intend on changing it tomorrow, is the thing in the middle of this pic that the belt serpentines around the tensioner?
http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af5/69marc/IMAG0230_zpsf30352d8.jpg
There are two levers on it, do these release it? If so, how?
Scarey stuff...................
Should also have a lever on the bolt side that has an allen key fitting on it. Time it up correctly and slacken the 13mm bolt which will release the tension on the belt. Remove belt and refit new one (preferably with new tensioner and rollers) but not always necessary. Put an allen key in the outside lever and pull clockwise to take up the tension making sure all markings stay aligned. Once tensioned and lined up correctly tighten up 13mm bolt. Turn engine by hand a couple revolutions and make sure it is still aligned correctly and if so job done, refit everything else. That's my way anyway :thumb:
Thanks Kev, got the old belt off, a bit of a struggle, the new belt that I was given is too short so off to get the correct one. Didn't realise the bottom pulley had to come off and by that time the tensioner etc was off. Turning the star bolts on it, did turn the crank, how do I check I am not a complete revolution out or does it not matter so long as the cams and crank are lined up?
ie, I think small blocks can be line up one turn right and one turn wrong, is it the same with these?
Also noticed this morning after taking it for it's failed MOT yesterday, there's a massive dent in the drivers wing....just loving this car.
Wasn't sure what to do so seti t to piston no1 being highest. followed you instructions and turned it over and it went, idled nice and smooth so i assume that is it all set correctly? If I had had gotten anything even one tooth out then the idle should be rough?
I set the tensioner to approximately 2 o'clock before tightening, is this about right and does the belt need checking for tightness at any point later or is that it?
Thanks again for the advice, (with my skill levels it still took me nearly 5 hours!!)
meritlover
05-05-13, 08:17 AM
Sounds fine. good work!
Sounds fine. good work!
Thanks, never again though!
Ahh sorry mate, should have mentioned the bottom pulley's to come off first for ease of work. You'll know for next time though ;)
Shouldn't really need to check tension on belt again but wouldn't do any harm just to make sure considering it il be hurtling around Knockhill.
Ahh sorry mate, should have mentioned the bottom pulley's to come off first for ease of work. You'll know for next time though ;)
Shouldn't really need to check tension on belt again but wouldn't do any harm just to make sure considering it il be hurtling around Knockhill.
Not at all, common sense should have done it but, it is me lol! Hope your car's ready for the 19th?
Not at all, common sense should have done it but, it is me lol! Hope your car's ready for the 19th?
Well I didnt want to say that lol
Unfortunately not, that would be cutting it too fine with no time for trouble shooting. Its booked in next week to get an exhaust made so prob wont have it back until the 18th but hey, should be raring to go by the june hot hatch :thumb:
Well I didnt want to say that lol
Unfortunately not, that would be cutting it too fine with no time for trouble shooting. Its booked in next week to get an exhaust made so prob wont have it back until the 18th but hey, should be raring to go by the june hot hatch :thumb:
Although it's a bit of a wait, I'm sure it'll be worth it.
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