Corsa c timing chain replacement essex area??

[gtegary]

Hi, please don't shoot me for owning a corsa c lol but its my daily and I'm thinking of getting the timing chain done.

Does anyone on her know anyone in the Essex area or near by that will do it for a resonable price?

Heard people say vauxhall are stupid expensive but have heard people getting them done for a few hundred quid.

[Novasport]

Ring a few dealers and find out.

[nova speed]

Where in Essex are you

[gtegary]

In clacton, but don't mind a bit of travelling if price is good.

[Stuart]

How much of an ass of a job is it?

[gtegary]

reading up on them, some people can do it in a couple of hours - 5 hours? i've never attempted a timing chain myself only ever basic timing belts. and i don't have the time to spare to do it.

genuine vauxhall kit to do it is about £130 with the modified tensoner. Just need someone to do who isnt going to charge the earth.

[Stuart]

Link up a guide and ill have a think. How urgent is the job?

[gtegary]

Just got this from a random corsa website so can't be sure how actuate it is (also the spelling isn't my fault either lol)


basically the job goes like so

drain oil and coolant
remove cam cover
jack drivers wheel up
remove wheel
remove arch lining
jack engine up under sump
remove engine mount
tighten tentioner on idle pully bolt and stick a pin in to hold tention
remove aux belt
remove pully
remove coolant pipes
remove thermisat
remove water pump
remove ac and alternator
look for timing mark on bottom pully
rotate engine until mark matches one on side of the engine and lobes on cly #1 all point out(use a screwdriver in sparkplug to deturmine tdc to be sure)
unscrew crank inspection bolt(on the front of the engine in the main block lines up with cly #1
insert a rod(short extention 1/2" drive works, but you need someone to make sure it stays there)
remove bottom pully with the single bolt in the middel (m18?)
to remove bolt rock engine until the crank locks onto the tool
bolt loosens in normal direction
remove remaining bolts carfully
remove the sump
rock the side engine cover housing to remove carefully, its on locating things... 2x
refit the waterpump to the side of the engine so you dont gt bolts mixed up and its the first point to retighten.

make sure engine is still at tdc. there are some groves on the right hand side of the cams(for the vx timing tool) they should be completely flat with the flat of the block(i used a metal rule)
on the crank there is 2 flat sides these should be at right angles to the flat of the sump or bottom of the block.
put the pin in the tensioner and remove chain, tentioner, runners and gaskets
put new gasket on then the chain keeping chain tight to the exhause cam side to crank.
this is where you need guy number 2.
1 to make sure crank is still at right angles
and 2 to make sure cams are still flat to the block (use spanners on the cams to adjust)
chain should drop strain on no fuss.
refit tensioners and runners you have to slide them up from the crank. while you do this make sure that you keep tension on the chain so it hasnt moved from when you set it.
pull the pin from the tentioner and turn engine over manually four times it should never get stiff or make more than one sound at a time(ie you should here induction and exhaust; no overlap) and check all timing again.
carfully put engine side back on be carefull with locating things...
slide it on as far as you can.
carfully tighen the engine side on starting with water pump
then when the slack is taken up tighen up the big bolts that you can acually torque up without snapping
tighen it all up carefully using opposites method
once you can competed the coolling system pressure test it using apropiate method(i used 10psi on the compressor)
listen for leaks from the sump(i added a small amount of water and found that the waterpump wasnt quite tight enough)
fit everything else back and your done. took me about 5-7hours + alot of umm and arrr time + tea x100

[Stuart]

Does that mean dropping ac gas?

Hmm a reasonable Saturdays work then....