Brake line rounded nut - advice please

[paul080803]

I have a problem with my brake lines, both rears have got rounded nuts on the hard lines. I need to remove the flexis to replace them. Tried vice grips and I can't get them to hold!

I have come to 3 options.

1- cut it off as low as I can, fit a new nut and reflare the original pipe ( access is very limited)
2- if option 1 doesn't work then cut the pipe off where it is straight under the floor pan and then either reflare each end and reuse it or replace it.
3- realoem indicates it is replaceable with genuine parts at a small cost, however you need to drop the fuel tank and potentially create more problems/seals to make.

Do I have any other options??

http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu310/paul080803/659bc4518848d12e2052382964c13778.jpg

[meritlover]

i would like to express my opinion if i may?

[Will F]

I would replace them. Those metal lines are a bit fecked! Replace with copper!

[Markd89]

take the clip that holds the flexi in place to get more access and use 2 pair of mole grips, i did mine today on my nova this way as they where fudjed, i have bluepoint grips and they are brilliant

[paul080803]

I would replace them. Those metal lines are a bit fecked! Replace with copper!

Good spot, that is not my car though! Picture off the net of the same part.

Mine are perfectly serviceable, well not as they have rounded nuts lol

[paul080803]

take the clip that holds the flexi in place to get more access and use 2 pair of mole grips, i did mine today on my nova this way as they where fudjed, i have bluepoint grips and they are brilliant

Clip is not removable until the lines are apart.

[meritlover]

can i suggest something?

[paul080803]

can i suggest something?

If it is gonna help me of course

[Markd89]

Clip is not removable until the lines are apart.

All clips can be removed out the way even when the pipes are still connected so you can adjust where they need to be seated, they cant be fully removed, just enough for you to get some decent size grips on both parts

[paul080803]

All clips can be removed out the way even when the pipes are still connected so you can adjust where they need to be seated, they cant be fully removed, just enough for you to get some decent size grips on both parts

The clip could be spun around the pipe but I don't see how that would help? It won't move up or down the length of the pipe until the solid and flexi are split.

The flexi goes in from the bottom and has teeth around the outside. The welded bracket on the car then has locking teeth for the flexi to located into. That then leaves approx 1.5cm sticking above the welded bracket. The clip then sits above it and rests on a collar built into the swaged fitting on the flexi. Then the solid pipe goes in and the fitting locks the clip in place when tightened down.

[meritlover]

i would first start by releasing the bleed nipple on the cylinder. if this shears off then you know you have to replace it anyway before you even consider the replacement of any other brake component.it will need to be bled anyway even if you did manage to split your fitting, so you would be as well to suffee the disappointment and humiliation now and save only one trip to your local far away motor factors. at which point, when you buy your cylinder, buy a flex hose, 2 fittings and a length of hose. you clearly have the means of flaring tube anyway so replace the lot for very few pounds and less heart ache than wrestling with old fittings. sweaging a steel pipe is never very fun anyway.
thank you for the permission to present this possible solution.xxx

[Markd89]

The clip could be spun around the pipe but I don't see how that would help? It won't move up or down the length of the pipe until the solid and flexi are split.

The flexi goes in from the bottom and has teeth around the outside. The welded bracket on the car then has locking teeth for the flexi to located into. That then leaves approx 1.5cm sticking above the welded bracket. The clip then sits above it and rests on a collar built into the swaged fitting on the flexi. Then the solid pipe goes in and the fitting locks the clip in place when tightened down.

unusual as everyone ive done you can pull the hose through which makes it alot easier to crack the nipples off, if it was me i'd fo the following :

Cut the metal brake pipe down to the union
Get a decent socket and ratchet and it will undo ( so you can re-use the flexi )
Either re-flare the brake pipe if it will be long enough
or
Cut the brake pipe further down the car and join it with a new piece of pipe with a male and female union
Make it long enough to fit into the old flexi

All we do when doing mots is cut the corroded piece out and use male / female unions and bridge it together.

[paul080803]

i would first start by releasing the bleed nipple on the cylinder. Valid point, however I have fitted brand new callipers on all 4 corners and all the bleed nipples are free. if this shears off then you know you have to replace it anyway before you even consider the replacement of any other brake component.it will need to be bled anyway even if you did manage to split your fitting, so you would be as well to suffee the disappointment and humiliation now and save only one trip to your local far away motor factors. at which point, when you buy your cylinder, buy a flex hose, 2 fittings and a length of hose. you clearly have the means of flaring tube anyway so replace the lot for very few pounds and less heart ache than wrestling with old fittings. sweaging a steel pipe is never very fun anyway.
thank you for the permission to present this possible solution.xxx

Yes I have the tools to flare the pipe. I think am going to go down the route of either new genuine parts or new copper pipes.

I will probably try and redo this old one first tomorrow. I have new fittings already. I do like a challenge too lol

[paul080803]

Cut the metal brake pipe down to the union
Get a decent socket and ratchet and it will undo ( so you can re-use the flexi )
Either re-flare the brake pipe if it will be long enough
or
Cut the brake pipe further down the car and join it with a new piece of pipe with a male and female union
Make it long enough to fit into the old flexi


That is basically where I was.

I don't need to resume the old flexi so that makes it slightly easier.

[meritlover]

it is never a good idea to join brake pipe either. you certainly have a challenge if you require an answer for a straightforward and logical conclusion. sleep well my child and let your mind caress the issue in your sleep and find your goal. i think of you and your mates safety for whom you were willing to take a shortcut for on a safety component.
rest well
xxx

[paul080803]

it is never a good idea to join brake pipe either. you certainly have a challenge if you require an answer for a straightforward and logical conclusion. sleep well my child and let your mind caress the issue in your sleep and find your goal. i think of you and your mates safety for whom you were willing to take a shortcut for on a safety component.
rest well
xxx

I will.

I best replace every brake pipe on my car whilst I am at it, get rid of all the factory joins that BMW fitted too ;)

[meritlover]

ye that would be wise. do not be smart with me. i mean it as an advisory capacity. i didnt say 'dont' or 'must not'. simply know that every join is a potential leak path and that BMW is not the greatest manufacturer in the land. xxx

[Markd89]

it is never a good idea to join brake pipe either. you certainly have a challenge if you require an answer for a straightforward and logical conclusion. sleep well my child and let your mind caress the issue in your sleep and find your goal. i think of you and your mates safety for whom you were willing to take a shortcut for on a safety component.
rest well
xxx

i want what your having

[paul080803]

do not be smart with me. i mean it as an advisory capacity. i didnt say 'dont' or 'must not'

I wasn't being smart with you!

I would suggest if your going to put all the sarcastic and patronising bollox in your replies, along with some good advice, then don't get shirky when I give a sarcastic comment back, along with a wink I may add!

I wasn't offend by your response, and took it in the light mannered way I believe it was intended. I also put a equally lighthearted and sarcastic reply back :)

[meritlover]

i thought you were winking at me for another reason. i may have miss read your body language. in which case, please disregard my kisses on my last message as they were blown in appropriately.

xxx

[paul080803]

i thought you were winking at me for another reason. i may have miss read your body language. in which case, please disregard my kisses on my last message as they were blown in appropriately.

xxx

:thumb:

[chrisd1986]

When i have the lovley pleasure of doing brake lines (did you notice the sarcasm there) i wire brush the unions and spray with wd40 and i do this a couple of days before i plan on doing the job and spray them a couple of times before and i always use vise grips to undo, if they are seized i have a plumbers blowtorch to hand to heat it up and it will come free. If they are a little butcherd i put them back on and tighten them with vise grips and they never leak this way for me.

[meritlover]

you are blessed by the ways of an experienced man. you may hold my hand.

[chrisd1986]

you are blessed by the ways of an experienced man. you may hold my hand.

I refuse to take my car to a garage unless its for an m.o.t and will take on any job and i this is my little trick that i tryed myself and it worked so thats how ive done it since

[meritlover]

I refuse to take my car to a garage unless its for an m.o.t and will take on any job and i this is my little trick that i tryed myself and it worked so thats how ive done it since

you truely are blessed. please accept a small handfull of my love.

[chrisd1986]

you truely are blessed. please accept a small handfull of my love.

You wouldnt beleve whats going through my mind when i read this and im a very dirty boy whos mind is either in the gutter or my nova