what needs nylock nuts

[turbojolt]

my replacement ball joints came with them and i sure they weren't as standard, so are there other parts worth giving the nylock nut treatment?

I'm going to be mounting my bucket seats on to the slide-able frames i have tomorrow using them, dont know if its needed but i have loads now so why not lol

[mk1nova_rich]

Balljoints always have Nylocs as standard. Use them where you can IMO

[turbojolt]

so there are no disadvantages to using them on certain things?

[paul james]

I wouldn't use them as a replacement for every nut, as they don't typically have the same strength rating. Nuts have ratings just like bolts, but its a single digit, so 10 for a nut wheras the equivalent bolt is 10.9
Nyloc nuts are generaly used in areas where you get a lot of vibration but the nuts don't need to be done up to a very high torque, like on an inlet manifold. The nuts on the rear beam or front arms for instance are meant to be torqued up so tightly than no vibration is going to set them free.

[turbojolt]

good stuff cheers

[mowgli]

also avoid putting them on something like the exhaust manifold or any other hot spot, as the nylon melts out really quickly.

[Iain]

Am I right in thinking the nylon ruins the torque setting when doing them up? Or is that crap? Tbf I used them all over suspension and all sorts ha ha

[_Jake]

id use them on most things that vibtrate but dont get hot..

[mowgli]

i can't see how it could affect the torque setting.. the nylon itself simply deforms to make a tight fit on the threads.

[turbojolt]

are they a one shot deal nut, once they have been put on and removed do they need replacing?

[mowgli]

/\ officially, yes. but you can get away with a couple of goes on lowish torque.

why would you want to take one back off???

[turbojolt]

/\ officially, yes. but you can get away with a couple of goes on lowish torque.

why would you want to take one back off???

changing seats, slacking off the alternator and a million other things lol

[paul james]

Don't bother using them for things like the alternator bracket where you'll be undoing them a lot, as it defies the whole point of having the nylon insert if its too worn to do its job, and you'll get no extra benefit over using a normal nut.

[turbojolt]

another question, washers, if im not mistaken there designed to help spreed load, so why does it only seem to be the norm to use them on one side insteed of both nut and bolt head?

[paul james]

Probably because you tighten the nut onto the bolt, rather than the other way around. So the bolt remains stationary while the nut turns and is torqued up into place.

[Lewis.]

every fastener requires a locking device, in one form or another. whether it be a nyloc, a spring washer, a tab washer, split pin, stake nut, or liquid thread lock etc. It's just a case of choosing something suitable. for most things, a nyloc is fine, but the nylon will melt on any exhaust component, so use an all metal lock nut. bolt in a blind hole, use threadlock. simples.

Your old ball joints would definitely have had nylocs on then, as no locking device is an MOT failure :thumb:

[turbojolt]

why are exhaust manifolds held on with studs, could they be replaced with nuts?

the one on my xe are well past it, so will need replacing

[mowgli]

studs are the threaded rod bit. they should have copper nuts on.. this is cos if you used bolts & one sheared, you are screwed, making the threaded rod stationary & having the outer end move is good engineering.. if a copper nut fails, then a clout with a chisel of similar sorts it & the threaded stud is ok..

[Lewis.]

a few reasons for using nuts and studs. it reduces the risk of stripping the threads in the head, as you fit the stud once, and then your only at risk of damaging a stud costing 20p. it also removes the risk of using a bolt that's too long, and breaking through into the head. and have you ever tried to hold a manifold and gasket in line and start a bolt? lol much easier to hang it on studs

[Jon_nova1]

Not having a locking nut where it should be can be an MOT failure, mine failed on track rod end

[turbojolt]

right so if i clean up the old studs i shpould be looking at getting some new copper nuts for them and locklite the ends?

is there a cheaper alternative to locklite, another brand for example?


its amazing how much stuff im having to learn for this dam nova, should have kept it standard and put it on ebay for 3k :roll:

[paul james]

I used stainless steel exhaust studs with hex holes at the ends of them for my exhaust manifold. Makes it easier to screw them in using an allen key or suitable bit, and then much easier to then remove the nuts if you need to without taking out the stud too as you can hold the stud in position.

You won't need loctite or any locking fluid for the exhaust stud nuts, copper nuts deform and hold in place anyway. In fact I did the opposite and used a bit of copper grease on them to keep them from seizing.

[mowgli]

normal loctite is absolutely no use on exhaust bits.. its temperature range is fine for engine/gearbox bolts, but the heat transmitted thru a manifold would simply burn it away.