View Full Version : Baby XE valve removal
mk1nova_rich
13-11-12, 09:25 PM
Anyone here removed the valves on a 16XE?
I'm led to believe they're a bit of pain due to being set so deep into the head and some spring compressors don't have enough travel on them.
Any info or advice?
i did mine on a 1.6 16v engine with no issues just a normal valve spring tool?
mk1nova_rich
13-11-12, 09:38 PM
Cool I might be alright then. In my Haynes it shows a bit of an extension tool but the pic isnt great and not much detail
just see what happens lol
mk1nova_rich
13-11-12, 09:41 PM
Cheers anyway. I need to take the lifters out first anyway lol
ye remember to squeze the oil out ;)
Southie
13-11-12, 10:07 PM
Nobby, help him out a little more please as he's stripping a perfectly good engine lol
i found it was fairly easy to get the valves out, but it was a damn site harder putting the collets back on when i put them back in
mk1nova_rich
14-11-12, 06:53 AM
Well aside from the stem seals lol, no harm in freshening everything else up while I'm at it. Oh and the water pump seal had gone too lol
Cheers Mowgli, I'll bear that in mind. Hopefully my suction tool will arrive soon so I can get the lifters out then I can make a start on the valves, springs and collets etc
No issues when I stripped 3 or so down to flow, 12xe's are a sod because they run 5mm valves and tiny springs, might be someone confused on those?
Collets are easy when you lubricate them, they stick in the valve grooves. (which you should do anyway unless you want them running dry on first start up)
therealnovaboy
14-11-12, 01:29 PM
I have a draper valve compressor. I had to mod it to allow it to work I.E Extend the end where it pushes on the valve spring. Its easy if you have a welder.
Its a pain if you have the wrong valve compressor. Easy if you have the right one.
Just had a quick google image search:
http://images.esellerpro.com/53/I/891/9/medscale02339_VSC9.jpg
One of those I wouldn't bother with unless you're purely working on cast iron stuff from the 60's... modern engines are pretty much all gonna be OHC and they won't get over the cam journals. You want the extendable type, and if you're gonna use it a lot weld a bit plate across the end with the screw thread too because they're buggers for bending just there.
This type? Sealey VS154. Used one on my 20XE fine and they're cheap
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/VS154-BRAND-NEW-SEALEY-ENGINE-VALVE-SPRING-COMPRESSOR-MULTI-VALVE-/00/s/NTMzWDcwOQ==/$T2eC16R,!)!E9s2fCG0GBQ(,)Nv6OQ~~60_12.JPG
Yeah that's it, although that one's a bit bizarre with the double levers (although they seem common now!) I'm accustomed to something a bit more like:
http://www.comparestoreprices.co.uk/images/sy/sykes-pickavant-valve-spring-compressor.jpg
Although ours was from the late 80's or so before they realised 'storing' one of the ends might save them the cost of a handle lol
http://www.comparestoreprices.co.uk/images/sy/sykes-pickavant-valve-master-service-centre.jpg
Also had one of these to play with which was fun, lock the engine, pressurise the bores and clout the handle with a hammer to make the collets let go lol Only used it once when we were testing something that required valve springs changing on the head though, saved a few head gasket swaps.
Just had a quick google image search:
http://images.esellerpro.com/53/I/891/9/medscale02339_VSC9.jpg
One of those I wouldn't bother with unless you're purely working on cast iron stuff from the 60's... modern engines are pretty much all gonna be OHC and they won't get over the cam journals. You want the extendable type, and if you're gonna use it a lot weld a bit plate across the end with the screw thread too because they're buggers for bending just there.
i used something very similar to this on my x16xel head. it worked ok.
Andy's G-Unit tool ftw lol
Made from 2 nova shaft castle nuts put together and cut,worked brilliant on my gti head.
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll211/andyspics_album/andygti004-8.jpg
I've got a facom one rich, dead simple, large g clamp shape and just wind down to compress valve. Came with a variety of heads for different size valves. Can't remember where I had it from though lol
novalovingned
14-11-12, 10:43 PM
Wasn't that hard to do on my c16xe. Although I had to borrow an adapted compressor tool, wasnt enough travel on a standard one, with the aid of a flathead and a dab of vaseline collets were a doodle to remove and re new
Markd89
16-11-12, 02:51 PM
hammer and a socket, just watch your eyes and yes i have done it before and no dont even think about doing it.
My old man said he used to do it like that so i gave it ago after if flew off nearly taking the windows out he nicely told me he was lying and thought it would be funny to watch
hence i went to machine mart and the other 15 came out safely
Easiest way to put the collets on is to use some grease to make them abit sticky
hammer and a socket, just watch your eyes and yes i have done it before and no dont even think about doing it.
My old man said he used to do it like that so i gave it ago after if flew off nearly taking the windows out he nicely told me he was lying and thought it would be funny to watch
hence i went to machine mart and the other 15 came out safely
Easiest way to put the collets on is to use some grease to make them abit sticky
when i worked at the tractor dealership, i sent off a 1.3 ohc head with a load of tractor heads to be fully reconned.... upon its return, the lad put them on the trade counter.. i was making the tea, and when i appeared with the tray, i found my manager removing a pair of collets with a large hammer & a ring spanner.. apparently he wanted to see if they had done the valve seals!!!!!!! i was not very impressed, but he did manage to get them back in using the same weapons
You can do it with a hammer and a socket if you don't care about the valves bending if the collet sticks. Long 1/2" extension and hold it down hard so the cap/collets don't fly everywhere...
Markd89
16-11-12, 07:42 PM
Would rather spend £15 and do it properly and safely
mk1nova_rich
16-11-12, 08:33 PM
You can do it with a hammer and a socket if you don't care about the valves bending if the collet sticks. Long 1/2" extension and hold it down hard so the cap/collets don't fly everywhere...
:wtf::tard:
You really are a hero
the valve stems are tiny.. i wouldn't risk it on a baby xe
Southie
16-11-12, 08:43 PM
:wtf::tard:
You really are a hero
I think there's a hint of sarcasm Rich ;)
mk1nova_rich
16-11-12, 08:44 PM
Im not sure there is lol give us a text anyway :)
good advise to use grease when putting the collets back in :thumb:
mk1nova_rich
16-11-12, 09:02 PM
good advise to use grease when putting the collets back in :thumb:
Yep, it advises this in Haynes manual
Markd89
16-11-12, 10:58 PM
Yep, it advises this in Haynes manual
Didn't know that , I just tried it one day and it worked perfect lol
I think there's a hint of sarcasm Rich ;)
No you genuinely can do it on a scrap head, there was a few people saying it's impossible.
Obviously if you want to attempt that on something with 400 quids worth of valves in it or expect them to seal perfectly afterwards you're an idiot.
But, if you just want the bent/****ed/corroded valves out of a head, then it's possible. It's also bloody quick.
mk1nova_rich
17-11-12, 03:48 PM
If it was a scrap head I'd just chuck it in the bin :tard:
It was often preferred to fix them port them and sell them for £600+ where I was, so we did that instead.
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