View Full Version : running an engine in??
what the best to this?
been told loads of different ways by diff people etc
so i thought id ask on here now as some people have built race cars/track cars or just rebuilt engine's :)
any info or tips would be great :thumb:
run it gently till its warm, then simply drive it around...
unless you have fitted brand new cams & then you have to follow their guidelines...
running in was something done in the years up to the early 80's because engines were poorly built by communists in a shed in the midlands. it was a clever way of getting an engine to last until the 12 month warranty was over.
modern stuff simply doesn't need it.
once an engine has been run for an hour, it will be fine for years. ticklling about at low revs & glazing up the bores is the worse thing you can do to an engine.
maybe change the oil at 1000 miles to make sure you haven't left some crap in there.
Warm up, and abuse!
The rings will be bed in within 50miles. Change oil at 100 and enjoy kIcking it's head in forever.
A gently run in engine will not last long!
cheers peeps
its a rebuilt xej
forged pistons n rods with arps/new rings
all new shells/mains etc
all new gaskets
rebuilt coscats head
basically is all renewed
cam are second hand tho?
see i got told tickle it around for 500miles?
nope. tickle about for more like 50, then try it properly.
The only thing that needs bedding in there is the rings..
Lots of moderate accelerations to 3/4 revs and snap the throttle shut down to low speed and repeat. Rings done in 50-100 miles. Oil change and rape.
sounds good to me :)
i thought 500miles gona take ma ages if tickle around f lol
when would you say it would be safe for rolling road? as once its warn in il be fitting my jenveys then off for mapping ?
thanks both :thumb:
turbojolt
22-07-12, 10:20 PM
i was under the impression that engines needed to be eased in for 2k-to-3k miles and run on different oil when running in, shows how much crap you pick up over the years from different people!!
p.s Pie when is the build thread going up ive seen loads of your posts and photos and really want to see the build
Run it in on the way to the mapper lol
soon dude :)
just sorting other things out then a full update will be up etc buddy :)
lol stewart
also what oil should it be running with? at the start? (thanjs tj you reminded me that f lol )
just want a basic idea of whats what
cheers :)
tj... you probably did if you were rebuilding some crappy old 70's lump...
you'd be surprised what things garages used to say to people to make sure the cheque cleared.....
pottersrebel
22-07-12, 10:26 PM
Agree with everything stuart has said let it warm up then give it hell, my stockcar engine was given twenty minutes to warm up then i went out full bore on the track. As my engine builder said if its going break it`ll break no matter how u run it
To put it this way... Amg build a v12, they 'break it in' on a dyno for 20 mins, then send it to Pagani who fit it to a car and ring the nuts off it from cold for ever lol
I'd use a half decent but cheap mineral oil, drian and filter change for 10/40 semi synth.
so run 100 odd miles on mineral oil
then oil&filter change then fill her up with gm 10/40 semi synth
thanks :)
turbojolt
22-07-12, 10:46 PM
would it be worth getting a magnetic sump bolt aswell?
already got one fitted dude lol
would it be worth getting a magnetic sump bolt aswell?
Are you nearly as old as Mowgli lol
ffs... like moving steel objects inside the engine aren't magnetic too???
what do you think the oil filter is for???
true lol had the bolt kicking round tho so it was free lol
whats a tidy mineral oil to go for?
turbojolt
22-07-12, 11:10 PM
Are you nearly as old as Mowgli lol
I proof read the 1st testament, so yes (it didn't go well), i grew up around people that owned and messed about with lotus elans, mgb's, dolly sprints, spitfires etc. and it seems i have heared more and more crap then good lol
a great many things are bullsh!t led... car tuning/repair is one, most IT stuff is another, the building trade gets an honourable mention too.
novalew
23-07-12, 04:31 AM
my mate recently ran in his r5gtt for a 1000 miles (500 - below 3.5 k and 500 below 4.5)
i dont know if i have the heart to share this thread
my mate recently ran in his r5gtt for a 1000 miles (500 - below 3.5 k and 500 below 4.5)
i dont know if i have the heart to share this thread
I give that engine a 5k life with some abuse lol
Ignore all the above and ask the engine builder.
turbojolt
23-07-12, 11:24 AM
i think he is building it himself
Ignore all the above and ask the engine builder.
And get a 'be gentle on it for ages' answer while they ensure the cash clears and then say it was run in wrong when it fails early (because it will).
the engine all together on my stand ready to be fitted in the car
was just asking the best way to run it etc
I didn't even bother running my let in, no problems other than blowing the turbo,
Drove it hard from the 1st time it started, although I did change the oil after 500 miles and then again after 1000 miles
As mike said its not really needed these days as everything is machined to fit, of done correctly.
This of the American v8 builders they build the engine then whack it on the dyno and give it hell. And that's the 1st time the engines run !
Cash is cash, why would it need to clear? Who pays with a cheque in this day and age? When i ran mine in i did as SBS said. Have you ever actially had an engine built? I appreciate you work day in day out with cars. But when its your own hard earned £ in it, i bet you wouldnt jus give it death like you claim.
Besides if the builder says, run it in 1000miles then 2 days later you take it back in a bucket of bits cause you gave it death after 50miles. They would laugh in your face. So you may aswell do as the builder says.
If you've built it yourself and think running it in, is purely for the rings to bed in, then good luck.
im just after some info on the bset way to run it in
like you said paul whens its yout own money last thing you was is it fuking up (which i dont lol
I can only speak from my own experience but after 3 oil changes my oil was still metallic.
seriously, that is actually really worrying.
ant ideas if its ferrous or non ferrous?
3 changes and its still got (visible) metal in...... feck, thats poorly!
I'd break in my own engine as per experience in the game, e.g. 3rd gear (medium load) upto 3/4 limit and snap shut many times, lots and lots of engine braking etc. Lots of varied driving but not labouring it for a while and then go go go. Infact ragging the nuts off an engine someone else has paid for is more scary than your own, even if its paid for by a huge OEM lol
The engine was fine its still going, so its not worrying really. If i had 'let it have it' after 50miles then it would have been worrying.
i'm out in my truck for a couple of days...when i get back home, i'll copy an excerpt from the cosworth book about production engine testing.. Its surprising what the oem's expect from a new engine..
I literally couldnt care how people run their own engines in. You don't have to start proving yourself correct. Pie asked for advice, having had 3 engine builds and they all gave good power and are all still going now, i shared my knowledge. Evidently the resident internet hear say crew have spoken and i did it incorrectly.
sorry, if you feel offended. i've rebuilt quite a varied bunch of engines over the years & only one was a 'hobby' engine. It still did 90000miles, and ran fine, then i sold it.
Most of my rebuilds have been on working vehicles & they don't have the luxury of being 'run in' cos they have to go straight to work.
When people stopped having to retorque the head gaskets & redo the tappets, running in became redundant. If you want to do it, its fine by me.
But i was being deadly serious about metal in the oil after 3 changes.. Something is not right.
But i was being deadly serious about metal in the oil after 3 changes.. Something is not right.
But clearly you know **** all, so keep yer nose out lol it's right to be dumping visible swarf into the oil several changes in (granted no mileage has been mentioned but still)
Full throttle, high load up to 3/4 revs for a few runs, then gently harshly increase the RPM in small increments, tune/map as you're going so it's not melting things or borewashing.
Within about half hour it will be up to full power at which point the rings are fully sealed etc, another half hour of power runs/mapping and you can do what you like with it.
Alternatively if you're at the race track and it needs to be run in for practice, hold it at 7.5k RPM for 5 minutes to warm up and then go.
If it's an old Cosworth F1 engine, make that 15k instead on the same procedure.
Where was the words visible swarf mentioned apart from in your post? And you're right no mileage has been mentioned.
How do you know there is metal in there if its not visible?
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